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MEMOIR 



ANNE GORHAM EYERETT 



MEMOIR 



AiNNE GORIIAM EVERETT 



WITH EXTRACTS 



FROM HER 



CORRESPONDENCE AND JOURNAL, 



BY 

PHILIPPA CALL BUSH. 



BOSTON: 
PRIVATELY PRINTED. 

1857. 






^ 



«> 



THE UBRARY 
OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by 

EDWAED EVEKETT, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 



^ 



CAMBRIDGE: 
ALLEN AND FARNHA3I, PKINTERS. 






PREFACE. 



The follomng Memoir is a tribute of affection to 
the memory of the beloved friend of the Author, 
seeking in this way to embalm the recollection of its 
cherished and lamented object. 

I have cheerfully given my sanction to its prepara- 
tion, by placing my daughter's journal and letter 
books in the hands of Mrs. Bush, and by revising 
the volume for the press ; in which, however, no 
further correction has been made by me, than what 
would naturally be required in the case of letters and 
diaries, dating some portion of them from early child- 
hood, and all written without the remotest view to 
the press. It will be sufficiently apparent to the 
reader, that their character, as the productions of a 
youthful and artless writer, has been in no degree 
impaired by this revision. 

I have sanctioned the preparation of this little 
volume mainly for tw^o reasons. One was to gratify 
the wish of the amiable author, (my daughter's earliest 



VI PREFACE. 

and most intimate friend,) to preserve in this form the 
memory of their affectionate attachment, which com- 
imenced in the morning of their days, and continued 
unbroken to the premature close of my daughter's life. 

My other reason was a wish to extend to a some- 
what larger circle of relatives and friends the knowl- 
edge of what seemed to me, after endeavoring to 
make proper allowance for a parent's fondness, a sin- 
;gularly pure and interesting character, and a life as 
nearly faultless as human frailty allows. Without 
pretension to dazzling qualities there was every thing 
about her to approve and love, — great maturity with 
.great simplicity, resolution and perseverance united 
with childlike playfulness and maidenly diffidence, 
unusual attainment with entire absence of display, 
.firmness of purpose with a disposition most gentle and 
•docile, the highest moral purity, and a never slum- 
bering sense of religious obligation. I have thought 
that it was due to the memory of the departed, not 
to allow the recollection of such a life and character 
to pass at once into oblivion; and that I ought rather 
to avail myself gratefully of the kindly proffered 
and faithful pen of her chosen friend, in selecting 
from the great mass of my daughter's papers the 
materials of the present volume, and bringing them 
by her own conscientious and accurate narrative, into 
a connected form. 

It has seemed to me, however, that this simple 
memorial, though possessed of a melancholy charm 



PREFACE. Vll 

for relations and friends, could be of little interest to the 
community. My daughter had certainly made acquisi- 
tions in various branches of knowledge not usual at her 
age. I daily resorted to her for names, dates, and other 
facts readily supplied by her fresher, accurate, and 
very extensive reading. She had laid, I think, a sm-e 
and deep foundation for future intellectual eminence. 
Her juvenile compositions, (none of which are in- 
cluded in this volume,) evince the germ of no ordinary 
inventive and constructive talent. But her mind had 
not yet attained that stage of its development, in 
which the imagination begins to act powerfully upon 
the materials stored in the memory ; and 1 feel that 
it would be unjust to expose these specimens of her 
correspondence and journal to the criticism of strangers. 
The volume, therefore, is intended for private circula- 
tion alone ; and it is particularly requested of those 
into whose hands it may fall, that no extract from it 
nor mention of it may find its way to the public press. 

The volume not being intended for publication, less 
reserve has been practised in the introduction of names 
and domestic allusions than would otherwise have 
been thought proper. 

I could have wished that the references to myself 
had been less frequent in its pages ; but the feelings 
of duty and affection which she cherished for her 
parents were among the most strongly marked traits of 
our daughter's character, and it would not have been 
possible to omit the passages in her correspondence 



Vlll PREFACE. 

and journals, in which those feelings are expressed, 
without materially changing their tone and spirit. 

To those who knew and loved our precious child, 
to the kind and hospitable friends on the other side 
of the Atlantic, whose attentions cheered the weary 
hours of her suffering and decline, to the relatives and 
friends at home whose warm assurances of sympathy 
alleviated our sorrow at her loss, to the memory of 
her little sister, also a child of brightest promise, and 
who preceded her at a still earlier age to a better 
world, to her beloved sister, and brothers, and mother, 
the little volume is inscribed. 

EDWAED EVERETT. 
Boston, 1st January, 1857. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

page: 
Birth and family — personal appearance — cheerful tem- 
per GRACE WEBSTER EVERETT — TRAITS OF ANNe's CHARAC- 
TER — HER VIVACITY — LOVE OF ORDER — CONSCIENTIOUSNESS 
— SINCERITY — ECONOMY — LOVE OF KNOWLEDGE . . . L 

CHAPTER II. 

First school-days — testimonial from her teacher — earli- 
est CORRESPONDENCE . .211 



CHAPTER III. 

Her journal — school-days and hosie in charlestown — 

friendship formed industry visit to medford and 

lowell extracts from journal 3^ 



CHAPTER IV. 

Private teacher — removal to boston — summer residence 
at watertown — journal and correspondence . . .48- 



CHAPTER v.. 

Return to boston — second summer at watertown — mr. 
Emerson's school in boston — European tour in prospect 59 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Adieus — voyage — arrival at havre — rotten — paris — 

OBJECTS OF interest DESCRIBED IN HER CORRESPONDENCE . 70 



CHAPTER YII. 

Home in paris — more sight-seeing — Versailles — visit to 
the chateau op la grange — last letter from paris . 82 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Journey from paris to Florence — places en route — ar- 
rival AT FLORENCE — CORRESPONDENCE 100 



CHAPTER IX. 

New ENGLAND HABITS IN FLORENCE — CORRESPONDENCE . .116 

CHAPTER X. 

Villa careggi — pursuits — correspondence — journal . 140 

) 



CHAPTER XI. 

Departure from careggi — journal — a fortnight's survey 

OF NAPLES and ITS ENVIRONS 160 



CHAPTER XII. 

A WEEK IN ROME — ADIEU TO ITALY — RETURN TO PARIS — ADIEU 

TO " LA BELLE FRANCE " LAST LETTER FROM PARIS . . 179 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Arrival in london — residence in upper grosvenor street — 

FIRST impressions — ORDER OF LIFE — CORRESPONDENCE . 195 



CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTER XIV. 



EeMOVAL to GROSVEXOR place — CORRESPONDENCE CONTINUED 

PRESENTATION TO THE QUEEN EXTRACTS FROM HER JOUR- 
NAL — COURT GAYETIES 21! 



CHAPTER XV. 

British museusi — illness — dejeuners — excursions to man- 
Chester — CAMBRIDGE — ETON — OXFORD .... 227 



CHAPTER XVI. 
Tower op london — thames tunnel — visits in the country 

BELVOIR castle WENTWORTH HOUSE — BISHOPSTHORPE 

PALACE — THE GRANGE 253 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Second winter in london — employments — reading — views 
of london dissipation — feeble health — visits in the 
country extracts from journal 270 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Last extracts from her journal — last letters . . .. 293 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Letter from mrs. everett — letter from mr. everett — con- 
solations IN HER DEATH 309 



M E M I E . 



CHAPTER I. 

Birth and family — personal appearance — cheerful temper — 

GRACE WEBSTER EVERETT — TRAITS OF ANNe'S CHARACTER HEK; 

VIVACITT — LOVE OF ORDER — CONSCIENTIOUSNESS — SINCERITY 

ECONOMY — LOVE OF KNOWLEDGE. 



" In that, thy natal hour, 
The angels who thy spirit bore, 
From the far-off eternal shore, 
Sought for their heavenly home no more, 

But stayed to guard their flower." 



Anne Gorham Everett, the subject of the present 
memoir, was the daughter of Mr. Edward Everett. 
Her mother, Charlotte Gray Brooks, was the daughter 
of Mr. Peter Chardon Brooks, one of the most distin- 
guished and prosperous of the men of business of his 
day in Boston. Anne was the oldest child of her 
parents, and was born during their temporary residence 
in Boston, at the house of her grandfather in Atkinson 
street, on the 3d of March, 1823. 

1 



2 MEMOIR OF 

From her earliest childhood she possessed the graces 
of person and character which give interest to that 
period of life. Her pure, soft complexion, her clear, 
blue eye, and her delicate form, dressed characteristi- 
cally with exquisite care and neatness, made her, as a 
little child, if not beautiful,, most attractive and pleasing. 
Even her playmates, forming their circle for the merry 
game, were eager to catch her small, fair hand, which 
retained through her life the rare delicacy of her child- 
hood. Her manners were remarkably quiet and gentle. 
Although full of vivacity,. a>nd always ready for a laugh, 
or frolic, she was never boisterous. When the sports 
of her school mates gi'ew rude and noisy, she quietly 
withdrew from them. One day she ^^rrites in her jour- 
nal with evident disappointment:- — "6th May, 1835. All 
the scholars, but one, staid at school to-day and dined; 
including Charlotte and myself. School was dismissed 
at a little past one, and we then ate our dinners. After 
dinner I took my ball and played some time with it; 
but the other girls played such noisy games that I did 
not wish to play with them. After I had played ball 
till I was tired, I took a book and read till it was nearly 
time to begin school again.'^ 

Rarely could there be found a happier child. Her 
early school mate and most intimate friend does not 
remember ever to have seen her brow clouded with a 
frown, or her eyes moistened with tears of vexation. It 
is true, earthly favors are seldom so lavishly bestowed as 
upon this fair child. Wherever we find her throughout 
her brief career, a bounteous, smiling fortune attends 
her; wreathing for her a chain of joys, one link added 
to another. One sorrow only clouded her early years. 
But as experience teaches us that happiness is not in- 
separably connected with outward advantages, her uni- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. d 

form joyousness can be justly attributed, not alone to 
natural amiability or the gifts of fortune, but to equa- 
nimity of temper, and diligent and systematic employ- 
ment of time, and to the conscientious desire to do 
right, which pervaded and regulated all her conduct. 

Once only, as we have intimated, she tasted the bit- 
terness of sorrow. It was at the death of her darling 
little sister Grace. It is a mournful pleasure to in- 
troduce here, a tribute to the memory of this sweet 
child. 

Grace Webster Everett, so named for the wife of Mr, 
Daniel Webster, died at eight years of age, when Anne 
was twelve. Anne had been the dear child's teacher, 
and thus writes in her journal: — "10th December, 1835. 
Grace has not been to school for a great while ; she has 
not been well. But I instruct her at home, in French, 
geography, history, etc., and mamma attends to her 
reading, writing, and sewing. She gets on very well in 
her studies." 

Such were the studies of a child, then seven years of 
age. And in letters to her father, Anne mentions her 
rapid progress, and her interest in her studies. January 
10, 1835, she writes : " I am now teaching Grace 
French ; she is a very good scholar, and has already 
learned several pages in the little French book, out of 
which I first studied. I hope when you come home she 
will be able to repeat her French to you perfectly. She 
seems to like to leam it." And in another letter to her 
father : " Grace is studying the little French phrase 
book, that I studied first, and she gets along very well. 
Do you think she had better study the French grammar 
next?" 

Anne frequently wrote in her journal during the last 
year of her little sister's life : " Grace read aloud to us 



4 MEMOIR OF 

this evening, while we sewed." Their mamma usually 
joined their evening circle ; and Grace's reading was 
such as to interest all. 

But soon follows the brief account of her sickness 
and death ; although, abiding by the rules of her jour- 
nal, of which we shall speak more particularly hereafter, 
Anne forbears making a record of her own feelings on 
the sad occasion : — " 3ist December, 1835. Poor little 
Grace I The doctor says she is sinking very fast. Be- 
fore she w^as sick, I used to instruct her, but I never ex- 
pect to do so again. She has suffered much during the 
first part of her illness, but she does not now seem to 
feel much pain." 

The following day was New- Year's ; and Anne 
writes : " I had a very nice present for Daughter," (the 
endearing name by which Grace was called in the 
family,) " but the poor little girl could not receive it, for 
she is very low, though she has her consciousness." 

" 3d January, 1836, Sunday. — Papa did not go to 
church to-day, but stayed at home w^ith little Daughter, 
who is very ill indeed, though she seemed to know me 
as I went to her bedside and kissed her." 

" 4th January. — We did not go to school to-day, for 
Daughter was so low we feared she was going. But 
she breathed easier after dinner, and before night she 
was quite strong, and was also rational, and seemed to 
know us all." 

" 7th January. — Poor little Grace died last night, 
about half past twelve o'clock ; and this morning papa 
took me in to see her. I think the dear child is very 
much changed. I can hardly realize that I have lost 
her, and that I shall never teach her again. I have a 
comfort in thinking that she is now at rest from the suf- 
ferings she has had the last three weeks." 



AXNE GORHAM EVERETT, O 

"8th January. — Poor little Grace was boiried this 
afternoon. Some of our aunts and uncles came over 
to attend the service, as did also grandpapa. Dr. 
Walker made a beautiful and affecting prayer, ' Papa 
and grandpapa then took little Daughter up to Medford, 
where she was buried in gi*andpapa's tomb." 

So this sweet bird of brightest promise withered, leav- 
ing only the perfume of her memory, which is still fondly 
cherished in the hearts of all who knew her. 

" Early, bright, transient, chaste as morning dew, 
She sparkled, was exhaled, and went to heaven." 

Dear little Grace ! The order of earth is reversed in 
heaven ; — and eight years after, when her beloved 
sister follow~ed her, may we not suppose Grace the 
teacher ? 

" What a world were this. 
How unendurable its weight, if they 
"Whom Death hath sundered did not meet again ! ^ 

To return to the immediate subject of our memoir. 
Among the traits of character developed by Anne even 
in her childhood, we are disposed to mention first her 
uniform viuacity^ the more remarkable in her case, be- 
cause it was united with an early maturity of thought 
and unusual gentleness of manners. It was, however, 
shov/n in the spirit with which she entered into all the 
amusements of her playmates, often proposing little 
changes in the mode of procedure, or by a new game 
of her own invention giving fresh life to the sport 
The names which she gave to the domestic animals, 
about her father's house in the countiy, and to the 
walks and drives in the neighborhood, were full of 
sprightliness and originality. 

1* 



b MEMOIR OF 

In all girlish pastimes, she was commonly the leader ; 
and during her temporary absence from school, one of 
her companions writes : " 1 miss you so much ; and in 
recess, we all agree that there is no fun in playing ball 
without you." In a letter to her father, dated when she 
was ten years old, she says : " I intend on my next birth- 
day, which comes very soon, to set up a school for the 
dolls ; and I have made some little maps for them ; all 
the books they study in, I am going to compose myself. 
I shall like such as those much better." Some of the 
little school-books of this juvenile compiler are still 
extant, and they present a very scholarlike appearance. 
When eleven years old, she issued a family newspaper, 
called " The Triangle ; " probably because there were 
three engaged in the editorial department ; contribu- 
tions being received from her sister C, and from a 
favorite young cousin in Boston, to whom Anne often 
alludes in her journal. The name of the paper was 
afterwards changed to the " Fly-Trap." The Fly- Trap 
appeared once a month, and was neatly copied out in 
complete miniature newspaper form. It contained pret- 
tily composed stories, amusing anecdotes, and also adver- 
tisements. In one of the numbers, " Miss A. G. Everett 
informs her friends that a new term has begun at her 
.school, and that she will take either day scholars or 
boarders." 

Anne was equally fond of the vigorous sports of 
childhood, and she freely indulged in them : the hoop, 
the ball, and jump-rope were alike used and enjoyed. 
At eight years of age, when under the care of her aunt 
in Boston, in the absence of her parents at Washing- 
ton, Anne wrote a letter to her papa, which artlessly 
reveals her fondness for play : — 



I 



ANNE QORHAM EVERETT. 



"Boston, 1 4th January, 1831. 

" My dear Papa, — I have not written to you for a 
long time, and I am afraid that you think that 1 have 
forgotten you ; but I go to walk in the afternoon 
and play so much, that I have not time to write to you. 
I like Miss F.'s very much. I have been there since the 
first of January, and she says I am a very good scholar. 
I go to Mr. Papanti's, but I do not improve in my danc- 
ing so much as in my studies. He is going to move 
down into Bowdoin Square, and we shall have a long 
walk to take, but we shall not mind that, for I go out 
four times a day, and Aunt Ann says that I have got 
red cheeks now. We have a little game called loto, 
which we play every night ; we can beat in it ; the 
card is covered with figures, and the one that gets a 
line covered first beats. 

" We have the new Robinson Crusoe, which 1 like 
very much, and the boys like it very much. 1 am glad 
that you are so much better, and I hope that soon you 
will be quite well. I have got into the last story in my 
French book, first volume, \vhich is called La petite 
Glaneuse, and it is a very pretty story. 

" I am your most affectionate daughter, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

A few lines from her aunt, on the back of this letter, 
correspond with Anne's statement : — 

" . . . I fear you see but little improvement in Anne's 
composition or writing. When at home she is so full 
of play, that it is quite difficult to get her attention 
long. I have good accounts of her from school ; — her 
lessons are never neglected, and she is certainly a very 
good child. She is quite a pleasure to me, and no more 



8 MEMOIR OF 

trouble to me than one of my own children. I give her 
a great deal of exercise ; and if she does not improve 
in manners under my hands, at least, her health is better 
than I have ever known it." 

In her journal she names many of her favorite games, 
such as " French Roll " and " Still Palm," and she was 
one of the active parties, when she was about twelve 
years of age, in performing the play of" The Grinding 
Organ," which was acted successfully several times, 
under the direction of her beloved teacher, Mrs. D., at 
Charlestown. 

This animated interest in all kinds of diversion, is 
mentioned for the encouragement of youthful readers, 
as evincing the happy influence of a combination of 
sprightliness with uncommonly studious and industri- 
ous habits. Anne's vivacity entered into every thing 
she undertook, whether work or play ; she literally 
obeyed the injunction of the wise man, "whatsoever 
thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might." 

Not less conspicuous was her love of order. " Her 
love of order," writes her father, "was the most ardent 
and resolute, I have ever witnessed. She seemed really 
to look upon it as Pope describes it: ' Heaven's first 
law.' " This beautiful sentiment of the poet was early 
familiar to her. In her journal under the date of Sun- 
day, 15th of March, 1835, she wrote : " Mr. L. made an 
address at Sunday school to-day, about order. He be- 
gan by telling us there was a saying, ' Order is heaven's 
first law ; ' and then told us, that we at Sunday school 
were divided into classes, and given to the care of 
teachers, who did all they could for our improvement. 
He said that we were like a solar system, each having 
two duties to perform, one to our teacher, and the other 
in common with the whole school. He also said, that 



I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 9 

we each had our business assigned to us, and that if 
we did not perform it, we deranged order as much as if 
the sun thought he would rise an hour or two later than 
usual, and make up, by uncommon diligence, the time 
he had lost." 

This beautiful trait characterized in the most striking 
manner all her conduct and all her possessions. The 
nice arrangement of her desk at school, with its con- 
trivances for the convenient keeping of her various 
books, papers, and writing apparatus ; and the habitual 
precision in which all were kept in their allotted place, is 
no small proof of a powerful systematic principle oper- 
ating in a school-girl. Order reigned in her plays, her 
studies, her division of time, and in the minute care of 
her wardrobe ; and it was conspicuously the ornament 
of her handwriting and her needle-work, in both which 
accomplishments she excelled. 

This quality rendered her a favorite with her teachers, 
but it was too rare, perhaps, to be appreciated by all 
her school mates. To the careless and indolent it often 
seemed needless precision. It will not be supposed 
that Anne gave heed to such critics, — if, indeed, she 
ever heard of them. She never suffered herself to be 
deterred from carrying out her conscientious principles ; 
and here it will be appropriate to notice the foundation 
which supported the symmetrical framework of her 
character, namely, her conscientiousness. 

" It was founded on a religious basis," writes one, 
who, of all others, knew her best ; " and of all the per- 
sons I have ever known, she possessed the liveliest and 
steadiest conviction of an all-surrounding Divine pres- 
ence. She read the Scriptures with unwearied diligence, 
retiring every day to a part of the house where she could 
do it unobserved. She wrote down texts for every 



10 MEMOIR OF 

day in the year, and at a very early age, for such a 
step, connected herself with her uncle Frothingham's 
church." 

The rules which she made, when about eleven years 
of age, for her daily use, appoint the reading of the 
Bible as her first morning exercise. Her journal shows 
how faithfully it was observed. Every day, in which are 
enumerated merely the occupations of her time, com- 
mences with something similar to the following: — 
" Rose this morning at half past five o'clock, — made 
my bed, and then went down stairs and read my Bible." 
" I rose this morning at a little past five o'clock ; dressed 
myself, and then came down and read a chapter in the 
Bible." She read every day both in the Old and New 
Testament, and in a text-book, made by herself, with a 
verse for every day in the year, chosen promiscuously, 
from all parts of the Bible ; thus testifying that she 
esteemed the whole Word of God alike precious and 
inspired. 

On Sunday she was constant at church, and a de- 
vout listener. Usually she gives in her Sabbath journal 
an abstract of one discourse, and very often the address 
heard at Sunday school. She loved the Sunday school, 
and was never absent from it but from necessity. In 
the summer of 1835, after a visit to Medford, she writes 
in her journal on her return, " We were rejoiced to get 
home ; I had not been to Sunday school for two Sun- 
days, and I was very glad to get back to it." 

A few extracts from her journal in 1834-1835, 
will show her interest in the exercises of the Sabbath. 

"19th April, 1835. — Mr. Walker,* made an address 



Now President of Harvard College. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 11 

to the Sunday school to-day. I will put down what I 
can remember. 

" Bad children often advise other children who are 
younger than themselves, to do bad actions, and they 
use a great many arguments to persuade them to do 
what they wish. One of the first arguments is, ' No- 
body will know it.' Let us consider this expression. 
There is a God who knows every thing which human 
beings do, even though it is concealed from every one 
in the world. And he knows when you do wrong. So 
that if a bad child asks a younger one to do a bad 
action, and says, that nobody will know it, he does not 
speak truth, for God will know it. Besides, when we 
do any good action, we are always pleased to have it 
known, because we think it will do us credit, and we 
are equally unwilling to have a bad action known. 
Therefore, when a boy says, nobody will know it, you 
may be sure that he washes you to do something wrong, 
or he would not wish it to be concealed. 

" Another argument used to persuade children to do 
wrong is this : ' you are afraid.' Many a child's virtue 
has yielded to this argument. An older boy tells a 
younger one to do something wrong. The child says, 
' I can't do it, it is wrong.' The other boy says, ' but 
nobody will know it.' The little boy still persists in 
his refusal, till at last come the words, ' you are afraid.' 
And then he generally yields. He is afraid of being 
thought a coward if he does not do it, and so he con- 
sents to do it, though he knows it is wrong. 

" Another argument used is, ' it is only this once.' 
A child says to himself, ' it is only once, and once is not 
much, and I' 11 never do it again.' But how does he 
know it is only once ? If a boy asks him to tell a lie 
for him, and says it is only once^ he is easily persuaded, 



12 MEMOIR OF 

but if the boy comes again the next day, and asks him 
to tell another lie, it is a great deal easier to yield a 
second time, for the very reason that he has yielded 
once. So that what began in a small sin, ends in a 
very great one, and destroys his character entirely. If, 
therefore, you would not wish to be discovered in great 
sins, do not begin by committing small ones." 

" 7th June, 1835. Sunday. — Mr. F. made an address 
at Sunday school to-day. I will write what I remember 
of it. ' When we wish to judge of an artist's taste, we 
examine some of his works ; thus we judge of the car- 
penter by the house he builds ; of the watchmaker by 
the watch he makes. So we judge of the power, wis- 
dom, and goodness of God, by his great works, one of 
the most wonderful of which is the human mind. If it 
is properly employed it will bring us great good. The 
mind has all the materials for action, and it is only ne- 
cessity to put them in motion. Thus two men set out 
on a journey together. One observes the scenery and 
country he passes through, and the manners and customs 
of the inhabitants of these countries, and returns home 
a wise man. The other man has the same advantages, 
and travels over the same space, and does not profit at 
all by it. The reason is, that he does not pay any atten- 
tion to the things around him. The same materials are 
presented to his mind as are presented to the mind of 
the other man, but he does not put his mind in motion.' " 
" 28th. Sunday. — Mr. Y. of Boston preached to-day. 
His text was from the ninth chapter of John, 31st verse. 
* If any man be a worshipper of God, and doeth his 
will, him he heareth.' He said when the soul has any 
desire or wish, it pours itself out to God ; or when it is 
oppressed with guilt; and this is prayer. Prayer is 
communion with God; and is like passing a moment 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 13 

ill heaven. The sermon reminded me of a beautiful 
hymn I once heard." Montgomery's hymn on prayer is 
here copied in full in her journal, beginning 

" Prayer is the soul's sincere desire, 
Unuttered or expressed." 

Other interesting abstracts might be given ; but these, 
which are among the earlier records of her journal, will 
suffice to show how attentively she listened to instruc- 
tion, and her interest at eleven years of age, in the ser- 
vices of the sanctuary. Another Sabbath employment 
which she speaks of with interest, was the study of a 
hymn ; and the recital of it to her father, formed one of 
the pleasures of the day. 

Her sweet dutifulness to her parents was obviously 
the result of conscientious principle as well as ardent, 
filial affection. One or two of her earliest letters, writ- 
ten, as will be observed, when she was six years of age,, 
pleasantly illustrate this. 

"Medford, January 1, 1830. 

" My dear Papa, — I want to see you very much.. 
As it is New- Year's day, I will write you a short letter.. 
I hope you are well. I wish you a happy New- Year. 
I hope you will be made very happy this year by the 
good improvement, and sweet manners of your little 
daughters. I intend to be very attentive to my studies., 
and all Mrs. S. wishes me to do. I am attending to- 
geography, arithmetic, writing, spelling, and have begun 
my little Grammarian. I have had the medal two days :, 
but I missed a word to-day, and so lost it, but hope tO' 
obtain it again to-morrow. Mrs. S. sends her respects- 
to you. I past the last Sabbath at grandpapa's and 

2 



14 MEMOIR OF 

left them all very well on Monday morning. Accept, 
dear papa, the best love of your affectionate daughter, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

"Medford, March 26, 1830. 

" Dear Papa, — I write to thank you for being so 
kind as to send me so many nice letters. I think you 
are very good to give so much of your time to your 
little daughter. I am sure I ought to be the best child 
in the world to so good a papa. I thank you very 
much indeed, for your last kind letter, and hope I shall 
never forget what you wrote to me. I will try to be 
every thing you wish. I should be very sorry, my dear 
papa, to set a bad example to my sisters, who are such 
dear little girls, or to give you and dear mamma so 
much sorrow. I should have written you before, but 
Mrs. S. has been sick, and I staid at grandpapa's two 
weeks. Mrs. S. requests me to give her respects to you. 
Please, my dear papa, to accept the best love of your 
very affectionate daughter, 

" A. G. Everett." 

Nor was Anne less distinguished for her sincerity. 
She was strictly truthful ; and this virtue gave, as it 
always will, transparency to her whole character. It 
made her singularly ingenuous and unsuspicious, and 
was the true secret of the winning naivete^ which dis- 
tinguished her, and which forms the charm of her jour- 
nal and letters. She shrunk from the slightest decep- 
tion, and one can almost smile that an incident like the 
following should have conflicted with her ideas of sin- 
cerity, as it really seems to have done. In a letter to 
her sister, dated London, 24th December, 1841, (she 
was then eighteen,) she writes : — 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 15 

" I, as well as you, have bought me a inufF, and with 
it a boa, of, I am almost ashamed to own it, imitation 
sable. I did not want to get it, but preferred a muff of 
chinchilla, very elegant, and the sweetest thing you 
ever saw ; but mamma and papa inclined to the imita- 
tion sable, and so I got it ; and it will do till I con- 
trive to get some real sables or real something' else. I 
suppose, if I choose now, I can wear imitation lace, as 
Miss S. at Naples told R., all the great ladies did in 
England." 

She was also carefully accurate in the use of lan- 
guage. She was enthusiastic in her feelings, yet she 
was not in the habit of using superlative expressions. 
Her descriptions of scenes and places inspire confidence 
from the very absence of exaggeration and embellish- 
ment. Her letters will amply illustrate this ; and, 
at the present day, when a highly wrought style is 
so much in vogue, especially with travellers, and by 
mere exaggeration, trivial incidents are made to appear 
marvels, it is the more pleasing to read the artless, 
unadorned style of a child of nature like Anne, and to 
see things somewhat as they really are, even though it 
detract somewhat from their piquancy. 

Economy was another striking trait of her character. 
The numerous relics left at her death, strikingly reveal 
the right principle which ruled her conduct in this 
respect. Surrounded with the means of indulging taste 
for expense, she yet wasted nothing. She saved rem- 
nants of her work ; fragments even of cord or thread — 
small bits of paper, she carefully wrapped up and laid 
aside ; — not from parsimony, but from a feeling that 
" all waste is sinful." Her composition books and the 
numerous memorandums of various kinds, of which 
she kept a great number, .were written on the blank 



16 MEMOIR OF 

pages of letters or other pieces of paper usually de- 
stroyed. Economy in her estimation was a religious 
duty, enforced by the example of Him who, when he 
had fed the four thousand from his exhaustless store, 
commanded the disciples to gather up the fragments, 
" that nothing be losty 

It was the principle of economy which led Anne to 
practise the most diligent saving of time. But proofs 
of her industry can be more aptly given in connection 
with her journal. 

The love of knowledge should be mentioned as one of 
her earliest and striking developments of character. By 
her own good-sense and the wise control of her parents 
it was well directed. This is manifest from the subjects 
she writes upon in her journal, which abounds, particu- 
larly in its commencement, in anecdotes and facts she 
had learned from reading or conversation. A new idea 
on any subject, however acquired, was uniformly tran- 
scribed by her as the most interesting event of the day. 
Her genuine love for study is also very undesignedly 
apparent in the manner in which she so happily blends 
her studies and plays, that one is almost at a loss to 
know which she considered the play; — a lesson in 
Latin or a game at ball. This love for study was no 
doubt greatly encouraged by her extraordinary memory; 
which enabled her to retain what she acquired and to 
learn her lessons with wonderful ease. 

The few selections following, are from the first volume 
of her journal, and were written when she was eleven 
years of age. They will serve to show the care with 
which she read, and her interest in acquiring knowl- 
edge : — 

" 29th November, 1834. — In Bertha's visit there is a 
very interesting account of Canova, the great sculptor. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 17 

The account is, that one day a rich senator had a large 
dinner, while Canova and his grandfather were at work 
in the house. The servants had forgotten to prepare 
the ornaments for the dessert, and did not think of it 
till it w^as too late. They were in great trouble, but 
young CanOva promised to help them out of their diffi- 
cnlty, if they would bring him some hard butter. This 
was done, and he carved a lion so beautifully, that all 
the company were struck with it, and the blushing boy 
was called in to receive the applauses of this brilliant 
circle. Canova afterwards carved a bust of his excel- 
lent grandmother, which stood in his room. It resem- 
bled Titian's mother. He one day observed to a friend, 
that the dress very much resembled that of Titian's 
mother, but that he thought that his grandmother was 
much the finer old lady of the two." 

" 8th December. — I read to-day a very interesting 
account of Guyton de Morveau. It said that once 
when his father was having the house repaired, from 
seeing the workmen, he became very fond of mechanics, 
and afterwards, vv^hen some old things were offered for 
sale, nobody would buy an old clock, because it was so 
out of repair. The boy persuaded his father to buy it 
for six francs. He then took it to pieces and repaired 
it ; and fifty-five years afterwards, it sold for more than 
the house and estate to which it originally belonged. 
He also did the same with his mother's watch, when he 
was only about eight years old." 

" 9th. — I met with an interesting account of the 
great musician Mozart, to-day. When he was only five 
years old, he learnt some very difficult pieces from his 
father, which he would repeat after they had been 
played to him once. The next year he composed little 
2* 



18 MEMOIR OF 

sonnets for the piano, which his father wrote down to 
encourage him. When he was six years old, his father 
one day seeing him writing, asked him what he was 
doing. He said he was composing a concerto for the 
harpsichord. The father took the paper and laughed 
when he saw the blots with which it was covered. 
But when he examined it further, and saw that it w^as 
all right, he turned to a friend and said, with tears in 
his eyes, that it was all done according to rule, and that 
it was a pity it could not be used, but that it was so 
difficult no one could play it. Mozart composed his 
first opera at thirteen, and died at the age of thirty- 
six." 

" 5th February, 1835. — I found an amusing account 
of the Sarana, or Lily of Siberia. It is found in the 
eastern part of the country, and it covers the ground 
with its blossoms. The bulbs are gathered in August, 
and put by to dry. It is then ground into flour, and is 
not only eaten in soups and other dishes, but also forms 
the best bread of the inhabitants. The Kamschatkans, 
not only gather this plant themselves, but also have a 
little mouse that plucks it and spreads it in the sun 
to dry. The inhabitants always help themselves to 
this store, taking care to leave some for their little 
mouse. There are several varieties of this lily, 
from one of which, the Russians manufacture a kind of 
wine." 

" 24th March. — I read, yesterday, in Mr. Cushing's 
book, an account of a young man who challenged one 
of his companions to go down into a vault, which had 
the singular property of preserving dead bodies, — alone 
and without a light. The proof he demanded of his 
having gone down was, to drive a nail into the wall. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 19 

The young man accepted the challenge and went down. 
A good many people assembled to witness the perform- 
ance. When the young man had staid an hour, they 
began to be alarmed. Still they w^aited some time ; 
but when at length he did not come, some of the boldest 
ventured down with a light, to see what had happened. 
They there found the young man lying dead. He had 
driven the nail in, but the skirt of his coat went in with 
it, and when he turned round to go back, feeling him- 
self detained as it were by an invisible hand, he was 
frightened and fell down and died." 

" 27th June. — I read to-day in a book called ' Letters 
from Constantinople,' an account of how rich the 
Armenians in Turkey are. They seem like beggars in 
the streets, but when they enter their own houses, they 
appear like princes. An American gentleman at Con- 
stantinople wishing to see some jewels, sent for an 
Armenian to bring him some to see. The man ap- 
peared, looking more like a beggar than any thing else, 
but he produced twenty -five thousand dollars' worth of 
snuffboxes ornamented with diamonds, and said if the 
gentleman wished to see them, he could show him a 
million dollars' worth of such snuffboxes. I thought it 
strange that he should have been able to produce so 
many." 

"17th November. — I read, in Harry and Lucy, a 
very curious account of the exactness of the Chinese. 
A lady wishing to match some beautiful china, which 
her husband had received from the East India Company, 
sent a plate to China to have some more made like it. 
In due time the plates arrived, and were unpacked ; but 
every one looked as if it had a crack in it, and on ex- 
amining the pattern, it w^as found that there was a crack 



20 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

in the middle of it. I have also read somewhere, that 
a Chinese painter once was taking a likeness of a gen- 
tleman who happened to have a patch on 'the elbow of 
his coat. The painter very carefully put the patch in 
the picture." 



CHAPTER II. 



First school-days — testimonial from her teacher — earliest 
correspondence, 



*' Lol on the mountain's brow, 
One point of gleaming light ! 
And thither climbest thou, 
With eye and spirit bright." 



Ix the winter of 1829, when Anne was in her sixth 
year, the public duties of Mr. Everett calling him to 
Washington, Mrs. Everett accompanied him. The 
family was thus broken up and it became necessary to 
place their little daughter at a boarding-school. The 
much-loved and attractive home of her grandfather, 
which she often visited, being then at Medford, she was 
intrusted to the care of a kind and intelligent lady in 
the same town, from whom she received the most 
devoted attention, ^he following testimonial is the 
first received by Anne at Medford, and may be worth 
preserving on that account : — 

"Medfokd, January 24, 1829. 

" Mrs. S. is very happy in assuring Mr. and Mrs. 

Everett, that their little daughter is a cheerful, good 

little girl ; — perfectly willing to conform to all the rules 

of the school, and very willing to attend to her lessons. 



22 MEMOIR OF 

Mrs. S. thinks Miss Anne has improved, and sincerely 
hopes her papa and mamma will be satisfied with what 
she has done for her." 

Anne wrote several letters to her parents during this 
winter, two of which are here given ; but, as the prin- 
cipal matters of interest, in so juvenile a correspondent, 
are the writing and spelling, it may be well to premise, 
that the language and spelling of the originals are re- 
tained, and very seldom has any change been made, 
even in the punctuation. 

" Medford, January 24, 1829. 
" My dear Papa, — I am very well and happy, but 
I shall be very glad to see you, mamma, and little 
sister Grace. I thank you, dear papa, for your pretty 
letters. I wish I could \vrite you a letter with ink, but 
Mrs. S. thinks I cannot at present. Please give my 
love to mamma, little Grace, and R, 

" I am your dear little Anne." 

The next letter she is permitted to write with ink, 
and it is very neatly done. 

"Medford, March 5, 1829. 

" Dy dear Mamma, — I am very happy to hear you 
are coming home so soon ; I want to see you very 
much. I thank you for your very kind letter, and wish 
I could write as well. I have been very happy this 
winter. I attend to writing, arithmetic, spelling, and 
geography. I have learned to knit, and am knitting 
something for papa. I shall be delighted to have a new 
doll, and should prefer one with blue eyes. 

" Give my best love to papa and little Grace ; and a 



I ANNE GORHA^ EVERETT. 23 

i 

i 

kiss for each. My love to R. Mrs. S. sends her re- 
' spects to papa and you. 

" I am your dear little Anne." 

Two of her letters in 1830, have previously been 
given ; one more will show her progi'ess in letter-writ- 
ing, and a note from Mrs. S. accompanies it. 

"Medford, April 12, 1830. 

*' Dear Papa, — When I wrote to you I forgot to 
mention that I have been to see some beautiful and 
curious toys, that were brought from the Japan Isles, in 
the first ship that ever sailed from Salem to these 
Islands. There were some beautiful birds that looked 
very natural — a little white mouse, two dear little dogs, 
and a humming-bird's nest, which was very curious ; a 
great variety of shells, and two Chinese shoes, that 
were too small for Grace ; and Miss J., who has the 
toys, told me they were too large for a Chinese lady. 
C. came to see me the other day, and brought those 
very pretty letters, which you printed to her. I always 
knew you could write pretty letters, but I did not know 
my dear papa had a taste for drawing. I was very 
much amused with the little figures you had drawn, but 
the pig for a postscript, made me laugh very much 
indeed. 

" Last Sabbath, Mr. B. dined at grandpapa's ; he 
told mamma that he met you two years ago at Wash- 
ington, and that you gave him a doll for his little daugh- 
ter, which she has kept until now. 

" Dear papa, I am very sorry you have not received 
my letter ; mamma gave it to Miss F., who promised 
to carry it to you. I hope, before this time, you have 
received it. 



24 MEMOIR OF 

" IV'Irs. S. sends her respects, with the love of, dear 
papa, Your affectionate daughter, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

[From Mrs. S., of the same date.] 

" Hon. E. Everett : 

" Sir, — I am happy in being able to say, that your 
little daughter is a very lovely, interesting little girl — 
is very gentle and amiable, and I think, has made con- 
siderable improvement this winter ; she has an astonish- 
ing memory and understanding far above her years, and 
I assure you I shall regret parting with her, as I pre- 
sume I must on your return. Our dear little Anne has 
had very good health this winter ; but is now afflicted 
with a very heavy cold in the head which makes her 
rather uncomfortable, and is one reason for her writing 
being no better. I hope her next letter will show more 
improvement." 

After leaving Medford, Anne passed the winter of 
1831, very delightfully, as has been seen from a letter 
written by her at that time, with her aunt in Boston ; 
attending school, and rejoicing in healthful play and 
exercise. In 1832 and 1833, she was again sent to 
Medford, to Mr. A.'s school. The only record available, 
of this period, is her correspondence with her father at 
Washington. A few of her letters are inserted to indi- 
cate her improvement. 

"Medford, February 13, 1833. 
" My dearest Papa, — I received your letter of the 
3d of February with great pleasure, and I now sit down 
to answer it. I am very glad to hear you are coming 
home so soon, for I want to see you very much, yoti 
have been gone so long. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 25 

" Grace and I are very much delighted with the little 
baby ; but Eddy was, as you said you thought he 
would be, a little jealous of her, and he wanted to have 
her thrown in the pond. I remember that was what C 
used to say when Grace was born. She would say, 
' throw the dear little baby into the fire ; ' ' put the dear 
little baby under the table,' and yet all the time she 
called it ' dear ; ' but Eddy likes the baby very well 
now. I gave it a ' very gentle kiss ' for you, as you 
asked me to. The little thing was very well on Mon- 
day morning, when we bid her good-by, to go down 
to Mr. A.'s. We have a very pleasant time here, and' 
enjoy ourselves very much. 

" Mrs. A. is teaching me to draw and paint, and to 
play on the piano ; and when you come home, I hope 
that I shall be able to play you a tune, and show you a 
bunch of flowers of my own painting. C. has got on a 
good way in the French phrase-book, and she gets 
pretty long lessons in it. I am reading Telemachus at 
school, and I think it is very interesting. 

" Do you ever see Mr. and Mrs. P. now ? If you see 
Mrs. P. will you be so kind as to ask her to give C. a 
letter which I have written to her. 

" We have had a good many snow-storms this last 
week, and when it stops snowing, in a little while it 
begins again. We have had a very great snow-storm 
this afternoon, and all the boys went out to coast on. 
the snow. There has been very good coasting this 
week. 

" I wish I was at Washington with you, for I do not 
like to have you go away from us for so long a time., 
I have not any more to tell you, and will therefore bid 
you good-by. Your affectionate daughter, 

" Anne." 
3 



26 MEMOIR OF 

The next fall the family removed to Boston, and 
Anne had the happiness of being again united to her 
parents, sisters, and brother. Nothing now seemed to 
disturb her enjoyment, but the absence of Mr. Everett 
during the sittings of congress at Washington. It is 
easy to see that it cost her affectionate heart a severe 
struggle to be resigned to these separations from her 
revered and tender father. 

In the illnesses of her mamma, and the cares at all 
times necessarily devolving upon the mistress of a 
family, Anne was the deputed letter-writer. She wrote 
exceedingly well, and so enjoyed the office, and was so 
ambitious to fulfil its duties, that she often begged of 
her mamma the privilege of writing to her father in her 
stead. This, whilst attending school, and much en- 
gaged in study, so that letter writing must of course 
occupy her play hours. The letters which follow were 
written very soon after the removal to Boston : — 

" Boston, 23d November, 1833. 
" My dear Papa, — I received your letter of the 18th 
with much pleasure, and I read it to C. and Grace, who 
were also much pleased with it. To-day we said 
poetry, and last Saturday C. was put in my class. I 
got up to the head, and C. got up next to me. We are 
learning ' Gray's Elegy in a Country Churchyard,' and 
some parts of it I do not understand very well, but 
mamma generally explains my lessons to me. Last 
Saturday Miss D. read to us the history of Semiramis, 
Queen of Assyria, which C. wrote about for composi- 
tion ; but I continued the life of Lafayette. I have not 
got through with it yet, and I think it will take a long 
time to write it. Last Sunday C. and I went to Sab- 
bath school ; and our teacher reads to us parts of the 






ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 27 

Bible and explains them and then asks us questions. I 
like to go very much. 

" We have one more new scholar, and Miss D. ex- 
pects some more when she gets into her new house. I 
hope that she will move soon, for she has been waiting 
a great while. We are nearly settled in our house, and 
as Thursday is Thanksgiving, we are making prepara- 
tions for that. Aunt Aon and T. and F. are coming, 
and I think we shall have quite a merry time. Mamma 
and the children are very well, and so is grandpapa. 

" Adieu, dear papa." 

" Boston, December 10, 1833. 

" Dear Papa, — I have not written to you for a long 
time, and I now write to tell you about the Institution 
for the Blind, which mamma, C, and I went to see on 
Saturday. When we first reached there, we went into 
a room where there was a man whose sight was begin- 
ning to return to him a little. He was making a mat- 
trass, and Uncle E. who went with us, asked him if he 
could see his work ; he said he could not ; he could 
only distinguish light from darkness. Then we went 
into another room where there was a little boy who was 
learning arithmetic. He had little steel implements 
with figures on them, which, by turning them on differ- 
ent sides, indicate different numbers. This little boy 
did sums very fast, and he gave mamma one in deci- 
mals which she could not do. We then went into the 
next room, where there was a little girl who was read- 
ing in the New Testament. The book had raised 
letters, and by feeling them, she could read. She read 
aloud to us. 

" Then Dr. Howe called a little girl to him, to ques- 
tion her on the map of the United States. He told her 



28 MEMOIR OF 

I 



to find Lake Michigan, and she passed her hand over 
the map, and told him where it was. He then asked 



her to bound several States, which she did by feeling. 
Dr. Howe told mamma that she felt the shapes of the 
different States, and by that means she knew. After- 
wards, the same little girl, whose name was Abigail, 
sung very prettily. The little boy who had been learn- 
ing arithmetic played on the piano. The little girl 
sung a great many very pretty songs, and I was much 
pleased with her. After this, we went down into a 
lower room where there were baskets and mats made 
by the blind children. Mamma bought Grace and E. a 
little basket, and C. also had one. I had a cradle. 
They were all made of straw. I wondered how the 
blind could make such things, when they could not see 
at all. 

" I was much pleased with the letter I received from 
you, and I liked the piece of poetry that you inclosed 
in it- very much. We have not received a Parley's 
Magazine for a long time ; and you told me if it was 
not sent to us, to write to you and tell you. 

Master E. desires me to send his love to you. 

" Adieu, dear papa." 

A few letters of different dates, received by Anne in 
reply to hers, are here inserted, as illustrating the forma- 
tion and progress of her character: — 

" In the House of Representatives, > 
lltli of January, 1830. ) 

" My dear little Daughter, — I have just received 
your letter of the 1st of January, and as I am very 
much gratified with it, I will not wait, even till I get to 
my lodgings, before I answer it. I am much obliged to 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 29 

you for your kind New- Year's wish ; and have no 
doubt that as far as my happiness can be promoted by 
the improvement and sweet manners of my little 
daughters, (as you very prettily express it,) I shall be 
made very happy. I have hitherto been highly grati- 
fied by the behavior of my little girls ; and I have no 
doubt that they will continue to merit my approba- 
tion. 

" In return for your kind wishes, I wish for you, my 
dear little daughter, the enjoyment of your health 
throughout the year, and success in the pursuit of your 
studies and other occupations at school ; so that by the 
blessing of heaven on the great opportunities you en- 
joy, you may at the end of the year, be every thing 
which your parents and friends could wish. 

" I am pleased with the progress you have made in 
writing, as shown in your letters to me. 1 do not ex- 
pect you to take up much of your leisure time in writ- 
ing to me ; because I think it very necessary for the 
health and happiness of children, that they should have 
time enough, not merely for exercise, but for play. But 
whenever you can conveniently write, it will be very 
agreeable to me, and I will write to you immediately in 
reply. 

" I am gratified at hearing that at the time of writ- 
ing, you had had the medal for two days, although by 
missing a word you lost it. You need not be disturbed 
too much by losing the medal ; because you are in the 
class with some very intelligent and studious young 
ladies. I remember, when I was a very little boy, that 
I was, for a long time, at the bottom of the spelling 
class, but by diligence and continued study, I got at 
last to have a very tolerable skill in spelling, which I 
have kept up to the present day, and find very useful. 

3* 



30 MEMOIR OF 

I have no doubt that, in this respect, you will imitate 
my example. 

" Farewell, my dearest daughter. 

" Your affectionate father." 

" New Yoek, 18tli November, 1833. 

" My deae little Daughter, — I had great pleasure 
in receiving to-day yoar very pretty letter of the 15th. 
I was agreeably surprised to find, that you had found 
leisure enough, amidst the confusion of moving, to 
write me such a good letter. As there were no secrets 
in it, I took the liberty to show it to Aunt Fanny, who 
read it with great satisfaction, and bestowed high 
praise, both on the handwriting and the composition. 
I am very much pleased to find that you are well 
enough to go to school again. You must endeavor by 
increased diligence, to make up for the time you have 
lost. But though I wish you to do this, I would not 
have you over anxious about regaining your place, at 
or near the head of your classes. I certainly wish you 
to stand high in your class, because that is a proof that 
you are industrious, and are attentive to your studies. 
But if by sickness or bad weather, you have to stay at 
home and get down, you must not let that give you the 
slightest uneasiness. You must also be particularly 
careful, never to show any ill-humor when you get 
down, nor Any triumph when you get up. Both are 
unamiable, and will make your school mates dislike 
you. But enough advice for the present. 

" I am much obliged to you, my dear daughter, for 
wi'iti ng to me ; and I shall be glad to have you continue 
to do so, all winter, as often as you choose. You need 
not be afraid of troubling me. When I am able, I will 
answer you ; and if I have not time, I will let you 



ANNE GOmiAM EVERETT. 31 

know, in writing to mamma, that your letters have 
reached me. I hope Grace will be a very good girl 
this winter, and behave like a little lady, and set E. a 
good example. As he is more with her, than with his 
other sisters, he will be very apt to be influenced by 
her ; and twenty years hence, Grace will be very much 
pleased to hear it said, ' it is no wonder that E. B. E. 
is such an amiable and obliging young gentleman ; he 
learned to be kind and gentle, when he was a little boy, 
from his sister Grace.' Tell E. to be very particular, 
this winter, not to make much noise, and disturb his 
grandpapa. I should recommend him not to get his 
cord reins too long in mamma's chamber, and it is my 
opinion, that three luncheons a day, is as much as he 
ought to eat, between meals, for the present. 

" Your affectionate father." 

" Washington, 24th May, 1834. 

"My dear little Daughters, — It is -several days 
since I heard from you, from which I suppose that all 
has been going on well with you ; — otherwise some 
one would have written to me. 

" We have had exceedingly warm weather for the 
last few days, equal to the warmest which we usually 
have in summer at home. If it is warm with you, I 
hope, my dear little children, that you will not play so 
violently, as to fatigue yourselves. Do not go into the 
hot sun by day, nor expose yourselves to the damp air 
of evening more than you can help. 

" It is some time since Nanny and C. have sent me 
their weekly tickets. I shall be gratified to see them as 
usual ; for there is perhaps nothing on earth I take so 
much interest in, as the education of my little children. 
I thought, Nanny, your last letter to mamma, which 



32 MEMOIR OF 

was a very nice little letter, was not written quite so 
well as you generally write. The ink was very pale. 
I want you to take a good deal of pains with your 
writing. 

" I see there has been an arrival of a vessel lately at 
Boston, which has brought a great many singular wild 
animals ; — among them several gnus and quaggas. I 
have heard of the gnu before, but such a thing as a 
quagga, I never heard of If it was a quakka, I should 
suppose it was a duck. When I get home, if the 
animals are not gone, I will take you to see them. 

" I send Anne a couple of pieces of poetry for her 
scrap-book. She can read them to the other children, 
as she must this letter. 

" Mamma is very well and sends her love to all of 
you as I do mine. Pray my little darlings, be obedient 
to R., obliging to each other, — and whenever you are 
tempted to do wi'ong, (which I am sure you very sel- 
dom are,) reflect what papa and mamma would say if 
they knew it. Your truly affectionate father." 

The " weekly certificates," to which Mr. Everett re- 
fers in this letter, were received by Anne while at the 
Misses D.'s school in Boston, which she attended a 
year, when between ten and eleven years of age. The 
encomiums of these certificates, a few of which are 
given below, were, truly, for so young a pupil, a high 
honor : — 

" 1. Miss Anne has not only the ability, but the dis- 
position to be studious." 

" 2. Maintains a rank which does honor to her years." 
" 3. A most obedient and industrious pupil." 
"4. Always studious and brilliant in recitation." 
" 5. Unwearied in her exertions to excel." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 33 

"6. In Miss Anne we see talent and application 
closely united.-' 

" 7. Faithful in every thing." 

" 8. One in whom we have great pride and pleasure." 

"9. A prize has been awarded to Miss Anne this 
week, the highest honor conferred in this Seminary." 

When about to leave the school the closing remark, 
on her certificate, was, 

" We part with such a pupil with regret I " 



CHAPTER III. 



Her JOURNAL — school-days and home in CHARLESTOWN — FRIEND- 
SHIP FORMED INDUSTRY VISIT TO MEDFORD AND LOWELL 

EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. 



" The hours are viewless angels, 
That still go gliding by, 
And bear each minute's record up 
To Him who sits on high." 



The figure of a Book in heaven, in which are written 
the actions of mortals on earth, associates with the 
journal of a departed friend a sacred interest which per- 
tains to no other form of composition. Do the heavenly 
and earthly registers agree ? is the thought often rising 
in the heart, as the eye follows, page after page, the 
daily record. That Anne's journal is truthful, her char- 
acter renders unquestionable, whilst the principles upon 
which she conducted it, leave its pages unsullied by 
folly or wrong. " When she began to keep a journal," 
says one, whose words she always delighted to honor, 
" I advised her against two things- — one was a detailed 
record of her own feelings and thoughts, and the other 
the admission of anecdotes or reflections which were 
injurious to others. I told her a compliance with my 
advice on the last point would render her journal far 
less piquant^ but that in my opinion justice and charity 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 85 

to others required it." To this advice she conscien- 
tiously adhered ; perhaps, in respect to the first clause, 
even more reverently than her father anticipated. True, 
it would be a gratification now, to know more of her 
personal feelings, and yet, generally, such knowledge is 
far from being profitable. Mere feeling is frequently so 
dependent upon the physical state, that when it seems 
to soar to a lofty height, so soon " the clay will sink the 
thoughts immortal," that the detailed relation becomes 
worthless ; for we know not whether the source from 
whence it sprung was heavenly or earthly. 

Her faithful observance of the second rule given her, 
now forms one of the greatest excellences of her jour- 
nal ; its pages being as pure from the taint of gossip, as 
before a stroke of her recording pen had touched them. 
Once or twice when abroad, in noticing customs differ- 
ent from our own, she has ventured on criticism ; and 
sometimes with censure ; but the names of individuals 
are never given. 

From the commencement of her journal, the 25th of 
November, 1834, when she was eleven years of age, 
Anne has left a continuous record of her life up to a 
very few weeks previous to her death. After the 1st of 
April, 1835, there is seldom the loss of a day. Those 
who have ever attempted to keep a journal will be able 
to appreciate the perseverance, energy, and method in- 
volved in this single habit, especially at so early a period 
of life. The reader is not, therefore, invited to trust the 
partial memory of an admiring friend ; but for every 
assertion, Anne's journal is the proof. Every extract 
made from it is given in her own language, and rarely 
is even a comma added. Had she foreseen from its 
commencement, the use now made of it, its uniform 
correctness could hardly have been exceeded, whilst 



36 MEMOIE OF 

every page reveals unmistakably, in the simplicity of 
many of the incidents recorded, that it was an every- 
day record, kept for herself alone, and not for others. 

Her home was at this time in Charlestown. As is 
usual with girls of eleven years, she had here her circle 
of favorites ; and among them one, who won from her 
the special appellation of her friend. Knowing how 
much Anne regulated her conduct by principle, a pas- 
sage in her journal warrants the belief, that she formed 
this first and only friendship, from conscientious motives. 
Great susceptibility with great firmness was an extra- 
ordinary combination in her character — the one enabled 
her to receive the slightest impressions, and to adopt 
advice with uncommon readiness, whilst the other made 
her steadfast to adhere to every good purpose. 

" March 1, 1835. — Mr. O. made the address at Sun- 
day school to-day. He said it was our duty to form 
some friendship with another person, and that both we, 
and the person with whom we formed the friendship, 
would be better for it, for that we should mutually do 
each other good. He said that he had read a story, 
which showed how much good was done by following 
this principle. In the schools in Switzerland, when a 
new scholar comes to any school, the mistress introduces 
her to the scholars, and asks, ' who will be a friend to 
her ? ' Perhaps about a dozen of the scholars will say, 
' I will.' The little girl is intrusted to the best of these 
scholars, who, in trying to do the young scholar good, 
becomes better herself, and also loves the little girl 
better than if she did her no good. Mr. O. said, also, 
that if we did not have a good friend to show us a good 
example, we should follow the bad example of a great 
many persons." 

However this may have been, her friendship neverthe- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 37 

less, possessed the warmth of a spontaneous emotion ; 
and was, from this early age, and through many changes 
of home and country, a faithfully cherished affection, 
strong and unimpaired to the last. 

Among the first papers she ever addressed to her 
friend, is found this fond effusion ; simple in rhyme, but 
powerful in feeling : — 

" Forget thee, no ! 
Forget thee, never ! 
Till yon bright sun 
Has set forever ! " 

One other, sadly prophetic, may be admitted herei- 
It is a letter to her friend when twelve years of age,, 
with this direction upon the outside : " Not to be 
opened till your eighteenth birthday." The letter was- 
opened at the appointed time, and contained an autumn^ 
leaf, with the following words : — 

" And now, to-day, you are eighteen years old, and so 
you open this ; — and in it see a leaf — gathered for 
thee in times far gone — shaded with tints of autumn. 
It was plucked when falling leaves announce that 
winter 's nigh. Oh ! let it be to thee a memorial of 
those times gone, and never to return ! " 

Now again as it is unfolded, the same parched and 
crumbling leaf falls from it, and the same words are 
even tearfully read. 

At the time she commenced her journal Anne was^ 
attending Mrs. D.'s school in Charlestown. She had 
previously attended a small select school kept by two* 
ladies in Charlestown for many years. Here she was 
taught the skilful use of her needle, and in her eleventh 
year she speaks of making button-holes for pillow-cases,, 
stitching wristbands and collars for her papa, and hem- 

4 



88 MEMOIR OF 

stitching rufBes, which show her progress in this impor- 
tant female accomplishment. Under these instructresses 
she received also a beneficial and happy religious influ- 
ence. Seldom have teachers succeeded in drawing to 
themselves and their school more genuine love from 
their pupils, than the Misses K. ; and there are now 
many mothers and their children likewise, who have 
enjoyed instruction under their delightful tuition, who 
could " rise up and call them blessed." Anne, when 
abroad, remembered with a lively interest, her school- 
days under their charge, and made affectionate inquiries 
for their welfare. She was not taught the languages at 
this school, but she still continued her Latin and 
French at home, under the tuition of her father. 

Some rules written by her about this time, apparently 
intended simply as a general plan for the day's employ- 
ment, will show how her day was occupied. 



"RULES. 

" I rise at five in the morning and employ half an 
hour in dressing myself and reading the Bible. 

" If the morning is pleasant, I take a walk with 
papa, and return home between six and half past six, 
when we take breakfast. 

" If the weather is not pleasant, I take the time be- 
fore breakfast to learn my lessons for school, or if I have 
none, in preparing my French for papa. 

" From seven to eight I learn Latin, and after I have 
done my Latin I read French to papa. 

" After I have read French, 1 either work or walk in 
the garden, until about a quarter before nine, when I go 
to school. 

" I retm^n from school about half past twelve when I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 39 

write in my journal, and I then have the time until 
two, to work, read, or do what I choose. 

" At two I eat dinner. 

" At three school begins, and keeps till about half 
past five, and from then until tea-time I rest myself, as 
I get tired at school. 

" After tea, before dark, I read my Italian to papa. 

" In the evening I sew or read, till half past eight, 
when I say my prayers and go to bed. 

" If I have time at noon, I read my Italian then, and 
if time before breakfast I read my French then." 

The resoluteness with which she kept these rules is 
wonderful. 

In 1834, when she became a pupil of Mrs. D., she 
studied Latin and French at school, and at that time 
began Italian under her father's instruction. Of this 
language she became very fond. A few extracts from 
her journal will show the rapidity with which she 
learned it : — 

" 17th March, 183'5. — Papa sent over to Boston to- 
day for an Italian grammar for me. He is going to 
teach me Italian." 

" 18th. — I like to learn Italian as well as I thought I 
should, though I have learnt but very little of my new 
grammar. Papa says that when I shall have learnt 
Italian well, he will teach me German, but I suppose it 
will be some years before that." 

'•23d. — It is quite clear and pleasant to-day, and I 
went to-day to take my drawing lesson, and have 
almost finished the picture I have been drawing, which 
is a cock, a cat, and a mouse. It is rather hard to give 
animals a good expression, but I succeeded very well 
in this. I have already got to the verbs in my Italian 



40 MEMOIR OF 

grammar, and papa says when I have finished the verbs, 
he shall put me into reading, which I think I shall like 
very much." 

" 31. — T have finished the Italian grammar, and am 
now translating several easy sentences at the end of a 
grammar of papa's. I like it very much, and papa says 
I shall learn it more easily than I did French, because 
there are a great many words in it which are very much 
like French and Latin." 

In August she mentions the absence of her father 
and regrets that she cannot say her Italian ; " however," 
she adds, " as he is only to be absent five days, I do not 
think I shall lose much." Such was her interest in the 
languages ; and at twelve years we find her reading 
Corinne in French, Caesar in Latin, and Tasso in 
Italian. When she was fifteen she began the study of 
the German. 

The number and succession of her employments 
show that she understood the beauty and healthful 
impulse of variety. In reading her journal the number 
of her employments is striking; whilst one feels, that 
nothing but her order, ruling all, enabled her to accom- 
plish so much. Beside the hours given to her daily 
studies, sewing, play, and walking, she found time to 
make a scrap-book and to keep a hortus siccus; she 
attended also the weekly meetings of the lyceum ; and 
yet she found much time for general reading, so that as 
nearly as can be estimated from the books she names in 
her journal, she read in the course of a year about fifty- 
six volumes ; most of them standard works of biogra- 
phy and history ; such as Scott's works, Irving's, and 
Miss Edgeworth's. She was also very fond of garden- 
ing, and in the spring and summer her journal is fre- 
quently occupied with accounts of the growth and 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 41 

prospects of her plants and flowers. Domestic employ- 
ments, too, shared her attention. " Ironing a little," — 
" going into the kitchen to make custards," — " dusting," 
etc., she does not consider beneath notice in her jour- 
nal ; and it is hoped that her uniform practice of mak- 
ing- her own hed^ will commend itself to the imitation 
of those young readers, who eschew all household 
duties as derogatory to the dignity of ladies. 

But we must allow a few extracts from her journal to 
speak for themselves : — 

" 17th July, 1835. — I rose this morning at five 
o'clock, and after dressing myself and making my bed, 
I w^ent down and pursued my usual occupations till 
breakfast. After breakfast, I said my Latin, and when 
I had finished it, papa was pruning his grape-vine and 
could not hear me read French, so I read to mamma. 
When papa had finished training his gi'ape-vine, I read 
my French to him and then went to school. I came 
home about half past twelve, and played shop with the 
children, and sewed on my patchwork till dinner-time. 
Before I went to school in the afternoon, I went to Miss 
C.'s, and bought some beads. In the afternoon. I fixed 
the frame to do the bead work on. After I came home 
I took part of a sponge-cake, and then read my Italian 
to papa. I have nearly got through the first Canto of 
Jerusalem Delivered. I forgot to mention that 1 had a 
very good game of ball at school in recess." 

" 28th. — Rose this morning at a few minutes past 
five, and after having dressed myself and made my bed, 
I went down stairs and read in the Bible, and then 
learnt my Latin grammar, and read French to myself, 
and then papa came down from his dressing-room, and 
I had just time to read one page of French to him 
before breakfast was ready. After breakfast I went out, 

4* 



42 MEMOIR OF 

watered my garden and then came in, said my Latin 
and French, and then went into mamma's chamber and 
hemmed on a ruffle till school-time. I came home from 
school at half past twelve, and learned and said my 
Italian, then sewed on my patchwork till nearly dinner- 
time, when 1 went out and gathered a few raspberries 
and flowers and then came in to make a book to put 
dried flowers in, at which employment I continued till 
dinner-time. After dinner I went to Miss B.'s and 
bought a little locket, which I gave to P. C, and I then 
went to school. I came home from school a little after 
half past five, and came up stairs and played with the 
baby a little while, and then wrote in my journal. 

"1st August. — Last night after I had written my 
journal, T sewed a little while, and then came into the 
study and read till tea was ready. After tea I said 
some poetry to papa, and in the evening I sewed, and 
pressed a passion-flower to put in my hortus siccus^ and 
then went to bed. 

" I rose this morning at half past five and dressed my- 
self, made my bed, and then came down, read the Bible, 
learnt my Latin, and had read about a page of French 
to myself when breakfast was ready. After breakfast I 
said my Latin and read French to papa, and then went 
into mamma's room, and sewed on my patchw^ork, till 
about nine o'clock, when 1 went down to my garden, 
and fixed some twine for my beans to run upon. I then 
picked a few raspberries, and then came into the house 
and held the baby, and then came up stairs and learnt 
my Sunday school lesson and Latin. I then went into 
mamma's room, sewed a little while, and then dressed 
myself and continued sewing till about half past one, 
when I took ' Frank' and read till dinner-time. After 
dinner I read a little while, and then went into papa's 



I 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 43 

study and learnt my Italian, and had just said it, when 
P. C. came, for me to go into the bath. I did not stay 
long as the water was coming in, and was very high. 
When I came home I wrote a little in the ' Fly-Trap,' 
and then went up stairs, spoke to baby, and brought 
him down for mamma to see. I then began to write 
my journal, but I had not written far, when mamma 
sent for me to read to her. I read till a little past six, 
and then continued my journal till I was called to tea. 
We had whortleberries for tea, the first I had eaten this 
season. After tea, I finished my journal. I sewed in 
the evening till about quarter past eight, and then went 
to bed." This day was Satm'day, which was a holiday 
at school. 

About this time she began to take lessons in draw- 
ing, for w^hich she developed a decided talent ; and in 
this as in every thing else which she undertook, it is 
interesting to watch her desire to improve. She notes 
her progress in her journal, and says, when beginning a 
difficult picture : " Mrs. G. says I can do it if I try, and 
she very often tells me T can do any thing if I try." 
She continued to make steady advance in the art, until 
her residence in Italy, where her progress became more 
rapid, under an Italian master. There, in her Floren- 
tine home, some of her happiest hours were passed in 
her own fascinating studio. She had less taste for 
music, and it was not thought best to add it as a task 
to those studies for which she had naturally a keener 
relish. That she enjoyed and appreciated the beauty 
of sweet sounds, however, is apparent from her letters, 
A\T:itten after hearing the celebrated Italian singer 
Moriani. " Florence, 7th April, 1841," she wrote to a 
friend, " I wish you were here to enjoy it, as you love 
music so much. The name of the tenor is Moriani, 



44 MEMOIR OF 

and with perhaps one exception, (Rubini,) he is the first 
tenor in the world. His singing is perfectly divine ; it 
has put C. and me in ecstacies and not us alone, but all 
Florence is, as one may say, at his feet. Such sweet- 
ness, such softness, I never heard, and I am sure I could 
listen to him for ever. There is such a breathless still- 
ness in the Opera-house when he is singing, and then 
such bursts of applause, and ' Bravo, benissimo, Moriani ! ' 
The night of his benefit bouquets were showered upon 
him, and he was called upon the stage five times to re- 
ceive applause. In the streets you see, written on the 
walls, ' Viva Moriani I Angelico Moriani ! Principe dei 
Tenori I ' and in truth he deserves it all. If I ever hear 
that exquisite voice again, I shall think myself too 
happy ! " Again she says : " Moriani sung again, and 
though his voice was a little hoarse, owing to a cold, 
yet he sang so sweetly, so softly, so beautifully, it was 
delightful to hear him." 

Her devotion to study was interrupted occasionally 
by visits from home. At Medford, especially, she en- 
joyed the pleasures of the country, and the society of 
her beloved grandpapa. Her only drawback from full 
enjoyment, was losing her place in her classes. The 
day before a visit to Lowell, September 4, 1835, she 
WTites thus : " I rose this morning at six o'clock, and 
dressed myself, and then went down stairs into the 
study, and read my chapter in the Testament. I have 
now got to the middle of St. Luke. I then took my 
Caesar and began to study my Latin. When I knew 
that, I took Corinne, and began to read French, but I 
had only read a page, when we were called to breakfast. 
After breakfast, I said my Latin and French to papa, 
held baby a little while, and then went down to my 
garden, and gathered some of the seeds of my balsam- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 45 

ines, which were ripe. Then came up and put on my 
dress for school. About a quarter before nine I went 
to school. I am at the head of almost all my classes, 
and if I stay a week at Lowell, I shall lose my places 
in all of them. But, as papa says, I shall have the 
pleasure of getting up again." 

In this excursion to Lowell her journal as usual was 
her fellow-traveller, and she has given in it several very 
well-written descriptions of the factories which she 
visited. After her return home on the 14th, she wrote : 
" I have already, since I returned to school, got up in 
several of my classes. I have got up two in history, 
and one in spelling, and also some in other classes. 
This afternoon some of the girls were absent, and I got 
up in some of my classes ; but I do not like so well to 
get up by the absence of another, as I am always very 
sorry myself to be absent, and lose my place." 

A few weeks later, she writes : " I am now at the 
head of three classes in school, though before I went to 
Lowell, I was at the head of seven classes, and got 
down by my absence." 

An equal ambition that her friend should excel, led 
her to propose to her that they should try to keep 
together in all their classes. Indeed, she manifested 
the same amiable interest for the good of the whole 
class of which she was a member ; and by her sugges- 
tion the girls of the first class named the row in which 
they sat, " The Orderly Row." " I have made some 
rules for it," she says, "which we shall observe, if 
the others like them." The following is a copy of the 

RULES OF ORDERLY ROW. 

" 1. No young lady, belonging to Orderly Row, must 
speak without permission. 



46 MEMOIR OF 

"2. No young lady, belonging to Orderly Row, must 
leave her seat without permission. 

" 3. No young lady, belonging to Orderly Row, must 
eat in school. 

" 4. No young lady, belonging to Orderly Row, must 
laugh loud in school. 

" 5. No young lady, belonging to Orderly Row, must 
be idle in school. 

" 6. All the young ladies, belonging to Orderly Rom^, 
must be attentive in their recitations. 

" 7. All the young ladies, belonging to Orderly Row, 
must take their seats, both before school, and after 
recess, at the ringing of the bell," 

As one proof of her scholarship at this school, it may 
be said that she invariably received from her teacher, 
the highest " Certificate, No. 1." 

Of course, indisposition sometimes detained her from 
school, but she writes : " I never stay at home for a 
cold." Her uncommon punctuality in attendance, and 
her proficiency in her studies, as well as her amiable 
deportment, greatly endeared her to her teachers ; and 
Anne seems to have been entirely ready to reciprocate 
their affectionate regard. She originated a proposal for 
a Fair, to be held on Christmas day, by the whole 
school, for raising money to buy Mrs. D. a New-Year's 
present. 

The proposal was agreed to with unanimity, and the 
articles made and contributed with zeal and industry. 
The fair was held at Mr. Everett's house, and the result 
was the purchase of a handsome writing-desk for Mrs. 
D. Anne was appointed to write the note accompany- 
ing it, and it is copied in her journal ; but as she 
honestly says, that she was assisted by her papa, it will 
not be inserted here. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 47 

November 17, 1835, she writes : " It is a year to-day 
exactly, since C. and I began to go to Mrs. D.'s school. 
I like it better than any school I have been to for some 
time." The returning 17th November, found her still 
at the same school, but at this time with the immedi- 
ate prospect of leaving it ; for on the 21st she writes : 
" We are not going to town," (meaning Boston,) " to 
school as I thought we should, but we are to have a 
private teacher at home, whose name is M. de M. He 
is to teach us French, Italian, and Latin, and came first 
this morning." 



CHAPTER IV. 

Private teacher — removal to boston — summer residence at 
watertown journal and correspondence. 



" With the love of a holier world than this, 

Her innocent heart seemed warm ; 
While the glad young spirit looked out with bliss 

From its shrine in her sylph-like form." 



Greatly as Anne delighted in competition with her 
school mates, it proved not to be a necessary stimulant 
to her studiousness or industry. During the year in 
which she was instructed at home by a private teacher, 
her ardor in her studies seemed unabated, whilst, in some 
respects, her progress was more rapid, particularly in 
matureness of manners and character. Several times 
she expresses her decided preference for this mode of 
instruction ; giving, as her principal reason, that there 
are fewer interruptions to study ; remarking, " you are 
often compelled, in rainy weather, to be absent from 
school, and that is not very agreeable." Her lessons 
were never neglected or deferred for other engagements, 
because freed from school regulations, and her daily 
record commences with these or similar expressions : 
" After our lessons were over for to-day ; " " we said 
our lessons as usual ; " or, " after our lessons were 
finished." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 49 

In the latter part of April, 1837, her parents removed 
from Charlestown to Boston ; and her journal shows 
that even the days appropriated to the confusion of 
moving, afforded her no apology for idleness ; she vol- 
untarily studied as usual, although her teacher did not 
come, and even " found a little time," she writes, " to 
sew this morning, while they were packing the baggage 
carts and trucks with furniture ; but not much, as we 
were all very busy." 

No rhapsody of feeling was indulged on leaving her 
beloved home in Charlestown. From her journal no 
one would perceive that it excited an emotion of 
pleasure or regret ; but, " stillest streams oft w^ater 
purest meadows, and the bird that flutters least, is 
longest on the wing." Two years afterwards she wrote 
from Boston, in a letter to her friend : " How do things^^ 
go on in Charlestown? I think I should like to be- 
there again. I am very happy here, but with Charles- 
town are connected all the associations of my child- 
hood, and so I cannot help thinking of it, you know." 
Again, several years later, writing of the same scenes, 
her words are : " I am thinking of them all the time ; " 
and still later, in a foreign land, when her thoughts 
reverted to her country, it was her home in Charles- 
town, which kindled her warmest affections. Who, 
indeed, does not see a halo of witching loveliness cir- 
cling the mind's earliest recollections of the past ? Just 
as far back as memory can reach, often seems the 
brightest spot in our lives. The dim, curtained light,, 
which beautifies every object, because it conceals every 
defect, is not more soothing to the senses than are those- 
far-off memories to the feelings. Around the enchanted 
ground the heart lingers, and still loves to linger ; for in> 

5 



50 MEMOIR OF 

remembrance it is " a morning without clouds." Thus 
memory seems kindly permitted to gild the past, as 
hope illumes the future, lest the realities of life's rough 
present, should be too great for the heart to bear. 

Although Anne was in her fifteenth year when her 
parents removed to Boston, yet we see in her no im- 
patience to overstep the boundaries of ehildliood ; a 
lovely simplicity marked her character and conduct. 
She habitually retired at nine and rose at her usual 
early hour, diligently attending to her lessons, sewing, 
drawing, and reading ; her chief recreation consisting 
in a daily walk around the Common with her father, 
whose companionship she so highly prized, whose 
absence from home she always deplored, and whose 
return she hailed with delight. Once about this time, 
she says : " Papa returned this morning, and we were 
all so glad to see him ; I was almost wild with joyP 

Thus quietly at home, without any participation in 
the dissipations of city life, she passed the spring and 
summer of 1837. It is not possible to do full justice at 
this time, to her journal, which is remarkable for the 
good-sense and right views it evinces^ and for the un- 
ceasing industry it exhibits, rather than for any thing it 
contains especially brilliant or striking. A few extracts 
only will be given. In the winter of 1837, she again 
attended school. 

" 6th September. — We began to go this morning to 
Mr. and Mrs. U.'s school in Otis Place. There were a 
good many scholars there, but I only knew one or two 
of them. When we came home at half past one, I 
sewed till the dinner bell rang. In the afternoon, I 
learnt an Italian lesson to say to papa to-morrow. I 
then sewed till a little after five, when we went out to 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 51 

walk with papa. We returned a little after six and 
soon had tea. In the evening I worked till nine, and 
then went up stairs." 

" 7th. — After school to-day, when I came home I 
felt quite tired, but I took my work and sewed with 
some little intermission till dinner was ready. After 
dinner I had to study my Latin lesson for school to- 
morrow, and after that to translate some English into 
French, which quite tired me out. I took a walk, how- 
ever, with papa, which rested me. When I came home 
I learnt my Latin grammar and said it to papa. In the 
evening I sewed and wrote a little, and then read till 
nine." 

" 29th. — I went to school to-day as usual I get 
on very well now at school. To be sure, we have 
pretty long lessons, but they are not very difficult. We 
have composition to write every other week^ and for 
the next time tlie subject is to be about the Mechanic's 
Fair, which will be quite easy, I think. We have to 
speak French too, or have a bad mark. It came a little 
hard at first, but it is pretty easy, now. I think I like 
the school quite well now, and I like to go to school 
very well, after being so long at home." 

She seems only to be perplexed at the frequent holi- 
days, and early dismissions of the school ; it is very 
plain, however, that she made these no excuse for indo- 
lence or pleasure seeking. 

" 12th September. — In the morning I went to school 
as usual, and we returned home rather earlier than com- 
mon, and the reason that was given, was because to-day 
was muster day, which I thought rather a strang-e rea- 
son." Again she says : " School let out earlier to-day 
than usual, for what reason I kno^v not, though it often 
does so." 



52 MEMOIR OF 

"9th October. — School did not keep this morning, 
so I had time at home to do a good many things. I 
sewed a good deal, and also learned a lesson in Italian 
to say to papa, which I have not done for some time 
before. In the afternoon I learnt my lesson in Botany, 
and then took a long walk with papa. When I came 
home, I ironed till it was quite dark, and then wrote 
and studied till tea was ready. In the evening I read 
and sewed till the bell rang nine, and soon after went to 
bed. 

" 10th. — School kept till recess to-day, but when we 
came home to recess we did not go back again. I 
learnt an Italian lesson, and then ciphered till two 
o'clock, when I sewed till dinner-time. In the after- 
noon, I learnt a French lesson, and then went to walk 
with papa." 

These brief extracts have been selected as affording 
a good idea of her conscientious employment of time. 
Her tasks in holidays, of course, being self-appointed ; — 
indeed, at all times, her untiring diligence and exertion 
were voluntarily chosen by herself, and never urged 
upon her. 

" November 20, 1837. — This evening, some more 
Indians, who have lately arrived in the city, came to 
our house about five o'clock. They were really formi- 
dable looking creatures, and were hideously painted with 
green and red. They seemed also to be in full dress, 
having many feathers on them. When they entered 
the room they went all round, shaking hands with every 
one, and I shook hands with at least a dozen I should 
think. When cake and fruit were offered to them, they 
took it, but they would not drink wine, though they 
appeared very eager for water. When the interpreter 
told them papa was going to give them some medals, 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT, -53 

they all made their peculiar noise, and rushed forward 
to get them. One of them being pleased with Q's hair 
beckoned her to him and braided it, which he did very 
well. One of them also lighted his pipe by the fire and 
smoked it At last, when they were going away, they 
again went round shaking hands, and they also spoke a 
very little English. One of them hugged grandpapa, 
which looked very funny." 

Her journal at this period continues to disclose the 
same susceptibility for religious impressions, which she 
had manifested almost from infancy. In 1838, after 
hearing a Fast-Day sermon, she wrote : " Mr. L. 
preached from the beautifiil parable of the Prodigal 
Son, which is so true a picture of human life, and so 
full of promises to the penitent. I felt that it was just 
what I needed ; for I wish to repent of my many faults 
and to lead a religious life ; and the mercy of God, as 
shown in the parable of the Prodigal Son, affords great 
comfort to me." 

The first of May, 1838, she again left school prepara- 
tory to her residence in the country ; she says, however, 
" now that I have left school I study a lesson every day, 
and say it to papa, I have nearly finished Tasso, and 
get along very well with Virgil." The middle of May 
found her at her new home in Watertown. Here 
she was very happy, luxuriating in her favorite rural 
pleasures ; and the beautiful country-seat occupied by 
the family at Watertown particularly charmed her. 
One little spot she chose for her garden; and soon, to 
use her own words, " formed grand schemes for cultivat- 
ing it." Driving and riding, and rambles in the fields 
and groves, made up her health-giving recreations, whilst 
she pursued unremittingly her various studies, and also 
extensively increased her usual amount of reading, 

6* 



54 MEMOIR OP 

Two or three extracts from her journal, with a few 
letters to her friend, with whom she had continued a 
correspondence after leaving Charlestown, will give an 
idea of her uneventful but happy summer in the coun- 
try. 

" 25th May. — I played out of doors for a little while 
this morning, looking at the rabbit, horse, etc., and then 
papa swung me a little ; after which we went into the 
house, and went to work. About ten I got ready to go 
and say some lessons to papa, and it took me about an 
hour. A little before twelve M. and C. came, but they 
had not been here long, when it began to rain, and 
they were obliged to go home. I then took my books, 
and read till dinner-time. In the afternoon it was cold 
and damp, so I did not go out doors, but passed my 
time in reading and sewing. I also did a few sums in 
arithmetic. In the evening my eyes ached so much that 
I could only use them a very little, and I went to bed 
early." 

" 8th June. — I went out this morning and performed 
my usual work ; weeding a part of the flower border. 
When it grew warm, I came in, and read and sewed 
till a little after ten, when I dressed myself, and then 
read for some time, and said my lessons to papa. After 
dinner I finished a book I have been reading, and then 
C. and I went to walk. We walked about three miles ; 
when we came home we were much fatigued. We soon 
had tea, and after tea, 1 read and wrote till bedtime." 

" 3d October. — I took a ride with papa, and we went 
to a very pretty part of the country, where I had never 
been before on horseback. I had a very pleasant ride 
and returned a little after tea. I then learnt my Virgil, 
and after engaging in a few domestic avocations, dressed 
myself." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 55 

Notes from her reading appear, also, from time to 
time. 

" 7th July. — I read lately in a very good book about 
a tree in South America, called the Palo de Vaca, 
which gives a great supply of milk. It is not bitter, 
but very rich and thicker than that of cows. When 
mixed with coffee, it cannot be distinguished from any 
other milk. It flows most copiously at sunrise, when 
the people ^T4llo live near it, take bowls to it and milk it. 
Humboldt, who saw it in Venezuela, describes it as a 
handsome tree, similar to the broad-leaved star-apple. 
When incisions are made in the trunk, a glutinous 
milk, of a sweet and balmy smell, issues from the tree. 
I also read of a tree in Guayaquil, which produces fine 
wool ; of one which in China produces very good tal- 
low. But I think one of the most curious trees I have 
read of, is the Tillandsia of Buenos Ayres, which gives 
on incision a quantity of pm'e water. The leaves and 
stems of the plant resemble a lily, and the leaves spring 
from the root. The water is so good that the wood- 
men of the forests never take any with them, but per- 
forate the plant near the root, and the water issues clear 
as crystal. The fullest plant yields about two quarts of 
water. What a bountiful provision of Divine Providence 
is this I" 

[To her friend, then at Andover.] 

" Watertown, lOth June, 1838. 

" We have now been at our country-house for several 
weeks, and I like being here very much. Our house, 
like yom-s, is built on a hill, and has a very pretty 
entrance, with a white gate, and is shaded with many 
trees. We have some horse-chestnut trees, which 



56 MEMOIR OF 

looked very prettily in blossom. But the trees which 
we have the greatest abundance of are cherry-trees, 
of which I have numbered thirty, and they seem 
to be pretty well filled with cherries. Now is it 
not rather strange? I told papa that I should like 
to call this place ' Cherry Grove,' because \^e have so 
many cherries, and your calling one of the names of 
your place ' Cherry,' seems quite a coincidence. We 
have also a great many apple-trees, which have lately 
been in fine bloom, but the blossoms are now mostly 
gone. We have a very pretty grove, with a great many 
oak trees in and about it, from which we get acorns for 
our pigs, who love them very much. There are a great 
many wild flowers in the grove, and I should like to 
have you here to gather them with me. We have a 
fine meadow with a clear spring of water in it, and a 
good many strawberry vines ; but as they are rather apt 
to be trampled on, I am afraid we shall not have much 
fruit from them ; but we have also some vines in the 
garden. 

" We do not go to school here, but we recite our les- 
sons to papa, and I draw occasionally. Do you intend 
to take lessons in drawing this summer ? 

a We generally work in our gardens for about an 
hour after breakfast, and employ ourselves in weeding, 
cleaning the walk between our two gardens, etc. 

" I wish you were here to stay with me, for I think 
you would find this a very pleasant place. We see 
very few people, except when our friends drive out to 
see us. But there is a gentleman who lives about a 
quarter of a mile from us, who has two daughters, the 
eldest of whom is about two years younger than I am, 
and we play with each other, and ramble about to- 
gether. On the first of June, we went down to our 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 57 

grove to gather flowers, as we did not go a Maying. 
We got some pretty flowers, and some little oak trees 
to set in our gardens. 

" Do you remember the box of paints papa gave me 
on my last birthday ? I brought it out with me here, 
and have begun to paint a heart's-ease from nature. I 
am afraid I shall not succeed very well, but I have never 
painted from nature before, and I hope I shall improve. 
I hope that you will learn to paint, as I think you will 
find it a pleasant occupation." 

[To the same.] 

"Watertown, 26tli August, 1838. 

" I still enjoy being here very much. We have 
for some time past taken to riding on horseback. 
We have two nice saddle-horses, and sometimes, 
when more than two wish to ride, we use a carriage- 
horse ; but her trot is rather hard. There are a great 
many pleasant rides round about here, and Charlotte 
and I take turns in riding with papa. I have got to 
like it very much, though I was a little afraid at first. 
I believe what first made me wish to ride, was hear- 
ing you say you had ridden at Andover and liked it. 

" I have lately begun to make a new kind of scrap- 
book, which papa told me about, and which I think 
will be very pretty when it is done. I take a sheet of 
large cartridge-paper, fold it up into quarters, and then 
paste pieces on it; and when one sheet is full I take 
another, and so on, till I have a gi*eat many, and then 
they will be bound up into a book. I have a long piece 
about the coronation of Queen Victoria, which I think 
you would like to read. I take great pleasure in my 
scrap-book, and I think you would like to make one." 



58 ANNE GOKHAM EVERETT. 

[To the same.] 

" Watertown, 10th September, 1838. 

" You wanted to know what I thought about your 
contest, whether you should rather see the queen or her 
crown. I think it is quite a difficult question, but I 
do n't know but I had rather see her little Majesty 
than a great many crowns. Yet I should like to see 
the crown too, it is so rich and splendid. I saw it 
stated in the paper that the value of the jewels con- 
tained in the crown was one hundred and eleven thou- 
sand pounds. What a sum ! But I think it would be 
well if we could see both her Majesty and her crown. 
Indeed, if we saw one w^e should probably see the other: 
for though she does not wear it every day, yet I should 
take great care to see her on a public occasion, when 
she had her crown on. 

" I began to think I should never go to Charlestown, 
but mamma has just told me that she means to go very 
soon, and then I shall certainly see you. When we go 
into town, I suppose we shall go to school ; then if you 
go too, it would seem like old times to be school mates 
once more. Is not this a bright vision ? I hope that it 
will not be dispelled, but that after having been so long 
separated, we may meet together once more. I sup- 
pose that owing to your eyes you have not studied any 
Latin or Italian lately. Shall you begin to study them 
again when you go to school ? I think that the more 
you learn of them the more you will like them, and, 
therefore, I would advise you to learn them, and pray 
write me an account of your progress, if I do not see 
you, for I shall always take an interest in whatever con- 
cerns you." 



CHAPTER V. 

Return to boston — second summer at watertown — mr. e's 
school in boston — european tour in prospect. 



" But no-w, alas I the place seems chaiged ; 
Thou art no longer here ; 
Part of the sunshine of the scene 
With thee did disappear." 



The bright, warm season passed away, and amid the 
leave-takings of birds and flowers, the family returned 
for the winter to Boston, and Anne, who had enjoyed 
the beauty of the flowers and the song of warbling 
birds with an innocence and joyousness like to theirs, 
was again in the city. Of her last day in the country 
this year, she has briefly written : — 

« 23d October, 1838. — It was a most delightful day 
to-day, and C. and I both went to ride with papa. It 
was my last ride this season, and I enjoyed it very much. 
We went through a most beautiful part of the country. 
When we came home I read aloud to mamma, and 
then to myself till dinner was ready. In the afternoon 
I read, sewed, and studied. In the evening we all took 
turns reading aloud till nearly nine o^clock." 

That she had made steady progress in her studies 
during the summer appears from one of her first records 
after her return to Boston. " We went on with our 



60 MEMOIR OF 

lessons to-day, and I began to learn German. I can 
hardly tell whether I shall like it yet, for it looks rather 
hard, but I think I shall. We say about the same 
lessons now as last summer to papa, and have added 
geography and history. I learn Dante now in Italian, 
and have about half finished ' L' Inferno,' the first part 
of the poem. I also read Virgil, which I have three 
fourths finished." Here she refers to her again studying 
at home. She was favored this winter with a lovely and 
accomplished teacher, endeared to her also by ties of 
relationship, under whose care she made rapid improve- 
ment, allowing nothing to interrupt her systematic 
study. The same features of her journal are retained 
which render it throughout remarkable, namely, the 
habitual industry and order of her life, and the child- 
like artlessness and purity of her character. Early 
in May her wish ' to be in the country was once more 
gratified, and a few letters to her friend will show 
with what animation she again partook of its serene 
pleasures. 

[Letter to P. C] 

" Watertown, 23d May, 1839. 

" We have now been here a little more than a week, 
but we have not yet enjoyed ourselves as much as we 
should, if it had been a little warmer. Just as I had 
written the word ' warmer,' I received your letter. 

" I am very sorry I cannot go to school with you. I 
shall go to school to Mr. E. next winter, if there is a 
place for me. As to Geology and Physiology, I can 
hardly tell whether I should like them. I have always 
had a sort of reverence for Geology, though I know 
nothing about it. 

I am sorry you missed your enjoyment on May-day. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 61 

We were in Boston then, and a dull day it was to us. 
There were, I believe, a hundred people engaged to go 
by the Worcester Railroad to breakfast at Brighton, and 
to return early, and almost every saddle-horse in town 
was engaged ; but the weather disappointed every thing, 
and only four boys went up to Brighton. Apropos of 
saddle-horses, I took a ride on our pony the other day, 
and found him very well behaved till, just as we were 
coming to our own gate, something frightened him, and 
he galloped up the avenue with me, and nearly got the 
saddle off, but I was extricated without difficulty. 

" All our flowers were sent during the winter to Gen. 
L.'s gi'eenhouse, a little above here, and my geraniums 
among others ; and when we sent for them the other 
day, my ivy geranium was found to be dead, for which 
I was extremely sorry. 

" We say our lessons here to papa, just as we did 
last summer, and I draw occasionally. I do not work 
much in my garden, as I do not like to weed it till the 
seeds have come up, for fear I should disturb them. 
Last year we had a great many apples, twenty barrels,, 
but this year is not the bearing year, and a gi*eat many 
of our trees have no blossoms. But as some of the 
trees are full, I suppose we shall have a few barrels of 
apples. Our grove looks beautifully now, and has a 
great many wild flowers in it which we often go down 
to gather. The way to the grove lies through a very 
pretty meadow where there are a great many wild 
strawberry plants." 

[To the same.] 

" Watertown, 20t}i June, 1839. 
" I should have liked very much to hear Master St. 
Luke's performance, but though he was in Boston some 

6 



62 MEMOIR OF 

time, I somehow never went. Perhaps if I had known 
the little boy looked like my favorite Oliver Twist, I 
might have gone. I get on very well with my studies 
now ; just as well, indeed, as if I went to school. I am 
learning German, and though I found it very hard at 
first, yet now I like it very much. I am reading a 
very pretty little book by Gothe, called ' Hermann and 
Dorothea.' I hope you study Italian now, for it is, I 
think, the most beautiful of all the foreign languages, 
that I have ever studied ; and when you know more of 
it, and read Dante and Tasso, you will take still greater 
pleasure in it than now. L. H. has lately spent a fort- 
night with us, and we have had very pleasant times 
together. We went one afternoon down to a beautiful 
little island in Charles River, about a mile and a quarter 
from our house; there are, in fact, two islands, the 
smaller connected with the larger by a bridge over some 
beautiful falls, and the larger connected with the main- 
land by a bridge. When we got there we sat down to 
draw, and succeeded tolerably well ; at least L. did. I 
can't say so much for myself It is really a beautiful 
scene ; I wish I could give you an idea of it. The 
water rushes over a dam. in rich waves of foam, and the 
falls unite with the beautiful river below. Then there 
is the bridge over the falls, which leads to the small 
island, and beyond the island, are some more falls, 
which you see more distinctly from there being no 
bridge over them, and they are one sheet of magnificent 
foam ! 

" Oh I now I am going to tell you something we did 
returning home from the island. 

" You must know that a little way below our house 
on one side of the road, is a double row of elm trees 
which make a very pleasant shade when you are walk- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 63 

ing. Well, these trees are said, with what truth I know 
not, to have been planted by a crazy man. So while 
L. C. and I were walking along, we bethought ourselves 
of making a ballad on the subject, which we did, and I 
send you the result of our joint labors, as I thought it 
might amuse you. Besides the ballad, we wrote an 
account of our visit to the island, which we call Rose- 
bud Island, as a sort of story, and introduced into it the 
said ballad, and a legend about the same crazy man, 
which L.'s fertile brain manufactured. 

" I think 1 shall go soon to see the famous giraffe 
and his companions the antelopes and gazelle. I wish 
very much to see the portrait of Queen Victoria, by 
Sully, which is now exhibiting in Boston. I see by the 
newspapers that it is superb." 

[To the same.] 

" Watertown, 7th July, 1839. 

" I was much entertained by the account you gave 
me of the French soiree you went to. I can imagine 
it must be very difficult to speak French with a foreigner, 
and, indeed, with anybody, if you are not used to it. 
But then it is a very good exercise, and if you should 
ever go to France, you would find the advantage of it. 

" I am very glad that you went to see the giraffe, for 
it is such an interesting creature ; so different from any 
other animal that one sees. 

" I hope you have been to see the picture of Queen 
Victoria. In case you have not, I will describe it to 
you. Her Majesty, then, has blue eyes, auburn hair, 
and rosy cheeks. Her face has a very amiable and 
sweet expression, and she has a very white and pretty 
hand, and a beautiful little foot. You know her foot is 
said to be the smallest in Europe. The young queen 



64 MEMOIR OF 

is dressed in white satin, with a rich outer robe of crim- 
son velvet, and a long train. On her head is a coronet 
of diamonds, diamond earrings, and a necklace of dia- 
monds and pearls. She is represented ascending the 
steps to her throne in a very graceful attitude. 

[To L. H.] 

" Watertown, 22(1 July, 1839. 

* * * * 

" To go back to the valedictory. I need not say how 
much I was pleased with the performances, particularly 
the poem. I should think the students would feel rather 
sorry to leave college, after having lived so long there. 
I imagined some of them, as they quitted Old Harvard, 
looking back and saying to themselves, these beautiful 
lines of Gray's : — 

' Ah ! happy hills, ah ! pleasing shade, 

Ah ! fields beloved in vain ; 
Where once my careless childhood strayed, 

A stranger yet to pain.' 

" Why are the ' fields beloved in vain ? ' That I do 
not quite understand ; perhaps your wisdom can solve 
the question. 

" Apropos of E.'s ' young Lochinvar,' papa had a plan 
for an edition of the poem, of Lochinvar, with a picture 
to illustrate every verse. Some of the pictures would, 
I think, be quite amusing. The verse where 

' Fosters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran, 
There was racing and chasing o'er Cannobie Lee,' 

might be illustrated by horses galloping as fast as possi- 
ble ; one man leaping a fence, another thrown from his 
horse by the violence of his riding. I wish some one 



II 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 65 

who could draw well, would make the pictures ; then 
they might be engi'aved and the poetry printed. When 
you WTite to M. D. you can mention to her the plan of 
an illustrated Lochinvar. 

" All oiu- numerous family are very well. Pony is 
very flourishing, though his canter is becoming rather 
hard. The pigs are thriving, and ' Chol-mon-de-ley,' 
our dear ' Chol-mon-de-ley,' is in very good health. As 
to the other hens and cocks, I have quite forgotten their 
names ; except, indeed, ' Pe-op-le,' and ' Victoria,' and 
those I can't distinguish. 

" What an epistle I have written to you ! C. and I 
have spent a night at Medford ; we w^ent to see the 
night-blooming Cereus, a beautiful flower, which only 
blooms at night. No time for further particulars." 

[To her friend.] 

"Watertowx, 17th September, 1839. 
" We have begun again our riding, and 



now ride almost every day. Pony goes very well and 
seems to be in high spirits. 

" I have of late been reading quite an interesting 
book called the ' Young Lady's Home,' by Mrs. Tuthill ; 
I liked it very much, and if you meet with it, I would 
advise you to read it. I have now begun to read 
Sparks's American biography, which is very pleasant 
reading. I dare say you read it when it first came out, 
in 1834, but it is well worth reading tw^ice. You have 
probably read Mr. Prescott's history of Ferdinand and 
Isabella, which I think is a beautiful book. 

" I wdsh to see you as much as you desire to see me ; 
but while mamma is ill we do not like to leave home 
much. I can, however, answ^er your question as to my 
6* 



66 MEMOIR OF 

height; I certainly have grown very much, and have 
had to lengthen my frocks. I remember the last time 
we met, I was taller than you, and H. H. taller than I ; 
so if you are now of equal height with Helen, and keep 
the same proportion with regard to me, I shall outstrip 
you both. 

" I have not yet read Nicholas Nickleby, and I do not 
know that I shall read it, for there are so many books I 
wish to read, that I find I cannot read them all, and 
have to omit some, at least for the present. I have just 
.finished a book called ' Phantasmian,' which is a sort of 
fairy story, and very pretty. 

'• So I have come to the end of my paper, as I always 
do, in writing to you." 

These letters will render it unnecessary to draw 
largely from her jom-nal, which continues to be mainly 
a recapitulation of her studies and employments, with 
domestic incidents and occasional anecdotes gathered 
from her reading. Her description of the night-bloom- 
ing Cereus is, however, too beautiful to lose. 

" Medford, July 22, 1839. — Papa and mamma also 
came over to see the flower, which was really beauti- 
ful. 

" The calyx consists of several rows of orange-colored 
leaves, which smell like vanilla. In the centre is the 
rich, white, cup-shaped flower, very deep, with delicate, 
straw-colored stamens, which lean against the side of 
the flower. It is very deep, and one row of stamens 
clings all around the inside, very neatly and closely 
laid." 

The 13th of November, two or three weeks later than 
the last year, Anne bade a cheerful adieu to her home 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 67 

in the country, not anticipating that it was for the last 
time. 

The 2d December the following entry is made in her 
journal : " I went to school this morning for the first 
time, to Mr. Emerson's. I cannot tell yet how I shall 
like it, for I did not have much to do. I got home 
about half past one, and said my German to papa, and 
sewed before dinner. It rained in the afternoon, and I 
did not go out, but did some work ; and in the evening 
I read aloud." 

She says previously : " I suppose I shall like Mr. E.'s 
school as well as any, hut I should prefer studying at 
homey 

This ready yielding of her own preference, was hap- 
pily rewarded, as appears from a letter to her friend, 

dated 1st March, 1840 " You know I go to 

Mr. E.'s school, but I have not told you how much, how 
very much I like it. Mr. E. explains every thing so 
nicely and fully to us, that I love dearly to say my les- 
sons to him. I dare say you know very well how in- 
teresting the ' morning lesson ' is ; for you must have 
been in his long morning class. We are now studying 
Herschel's Astronomy; and though it is a very hard 
book in itself, yet Mr. Emerson explains it so well that 
it makes it comparatively easy. When we were study- 
ing Natural Philosophy, he showed us all sorts of ex- 
periments, and when we learnt about electricity and 
galvanism, he had an electrical machine and Leyden 
phial 

" I take drawing lessons at school ; a young lady 
comes to teach us and we draw in crayons. We draw 
in the largest of the three little rooms. My whole time 
is occupied with studying and reciting at school, and 
pretty much occupied with studying at home ; so that 



68 MEMOIR OF 

accounts, as I said before, for my not writing to you ; 
but now we have a small vacation, which Mr. E. em- 
ploys in going to Kennebunk." .... 

The diligence of her studies does not seem to have 
affected her health, which was generally good. She 
was sometimes troubled with colds and headaches, but 
she was not often really ill. She was naturally of a 
slender constitution, but her early hours, systematic 
habits, and careful appropriation of some time daily to 
exercise in the open air, which she playfully called her 
"lung-bath," were no doubt, in a large measure, pro- 
motive of her general firm health. 

The approaching spring opened a new prospect be- 
fore her animated and appreciative mind, fraught with 
golden hopes and glowing anticipations ; she unfolds it 
to her friend in the same letter referred to above. " And 
now, my dear P., having I think fully discussed Mr. E. 
and his school, I have a piece of news to tell you. I 
am afraid you may have already heard it, and I wished 
to be the first to tell you ; but, however, I will venture 
it. We, (that is, papa, mamma, and all of us children,) 
are going to Europe ; only think, to Europe ! We shall 
probably go about the middle of June, and go to 
Florence in Italy. Oh ! I feel so pleased with the idea. 
And I only wish you were going with me. So I shall 
at last see beautiful Italy ; the land where Cicero and 
Virgil lived and wrote ; the land of poets, painters, 
sculptors. I suppose before we come home we shall 
visit some other countries ; Great Britain and France, 
and I hope Greece. Do not" you congratulate me, my 
dear P. ? But I know you will. I hope I shall see 
you before I go, and I think I shall, for there are a great 
many months before June ; and I suppose you will re- 
turn home soon. I shall be seventeen before this letter 






ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 69 

reaches you, as my birthday comes on the third of 
March. Think of me on that day, and imagine me 
opening a funny little billet, on green paper, which you 
gave me tw^o years ago to open the day I was seven- 
teen. By the by, you have a letter from me, to open 
on the day you are eighteen. Probably, when you are 
opening it, I shall be on the broad ocean, but neverthe- 
less, thinking of you." .... 



CHAPTER VI 



Adieus — voyage — arrival, at havre — rouen — paris — objects 
of interest described in her correspondence. 



• When with slow and gentle motion. 
Heaves the bosom of the ocean ; — 
While in peace thy bark is riding, 
And the silver moon is gliding 
O'er the sky with tranquil splendor, 
Where the shining hosts attend her ; 
Let the brightest visions be 
Country, home, and friends to thee ! ' 



Preparatory to her foreign tour, Anne left Mr. E.'s 
school the second of May, 1840. In a lively strain she 
wrote : " So adieu to my school life for ever and aye ! " 
The remainder of the month was much occupied in 
making parting visits ; and as we read in her journal an 
account of her last visit to Medford, and another to 
Watertown, and then her words the 31st of May, 
1840, — " This is our last Sunday in Boston^ for many^ 
many Sunday s^^^ — how plainly is it manifest, that in 
mercy the future is hidden from our eyes. Eagerly 
looking to that far-off land, radiant with visions of 
beauty to her cultivated mind, she saw not there the 
g'rave, in which, among strangers, she must lie down in 
sleep, and wake no more on earth ! Painful now are 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 71 

reflections, upon these last home scenes. Turning 
again to her letters and journal, we may borrow from 
their light-heartedness. Her last letter from Boston, is 
WTitten to her friend, and begins as follows : — 

" Boston, 24th May, 1840. 

" Dearest P., — I have not written to you lately, for 
we have been very busy preparing for our voyage ; but 
I thought I would send you one more letter from my 
native city, before I leave it for so long an absence. 
.... You may perhaps like to hear a little about our 
intended journey. The ship we are going in, ' The 
Iowa,' has not yet arrived from France ; but if she gets 
in in time, we expect to sail from New York the 8th of 
June, and proceed directly to Havre, and from thence to 
Paris, where I believe papa intends to pass the summer. 
Then, in the autumn, we shall go to Florence, and set- 
tle down there, literally, I may say, under our own vine 
and fig-tree. I anticipate some little difficulty in speak- 
ing French and Italian, but I am told one soon learns. 
When I am walking in the beautiful gardens of Flor- 
ence, I shall think of you, and how often we have 
walked to and from Mrs. D.'s little school-house. 

" C. and I have lately been spending a week at 
Watertown, in our old house, which Mr. and Mrs. S. 
B. have taken ; they are also going to take this house. 
We found it delightful out there, and expect to make a 
similar visit to grandpapa, at Medford, in a day or two ; 
and as I shall, I suppose, be there when this letter 
reaches you, perhaps you had better not come to see 
me, or I you, this week; next week we shall be at 
home." 

The 7th and 8th of June her journal is dated New 



72 MEMOIR OF 

York. She writes, from the hotel : " Having only two 
books with us, we were rather pressed for want of em- 
ployment." The next day she wrote : " I rose this 
morning a little before six, but they do not take break- 
fast at this hotel till eight o'clock ; so I occupied myself 
till it was ready, in learning one of the most beautiful 
pieces of poetry I ever read, which is in one of the 
books we brought with us." The 9th of June, the 
Iowa set sail, and on the 23d we find the following 
letter 

[To P. C] 

" Ship Iowa, at sea, Long. 30°, Lat. 47° 55', ") 
Tuesday, 23d June, 1840. j 

" Dearest P., — Here we are on board this beautiful 
ship with our voyage more than two thirds completed. 
I wish T had begun this letter to you before ; for I could 
have done so as well as not, but better late than never. 
I now begin it, and shall write in it till we get to Havre. 
I will begin the account of my sea life by telling you a 
little about our ship. She is of the Havre line, very 
large and beautiful. The cabin is inlaid with rose- 
wood, maple, and mahogany ; the state-rooms where 
we sleep are very convenient, having two berths each, a 
chest of drawers, and a very good washing apparatus. 
The table is excellent, and the passengers have every 
convenience that can be had on board ship. There are 
about a hundred people on board, counting every indi- 
vidual. We have a very agreeable ship's company. 
Not one person, except our own family, did I ever see 
before, and I now know every passenger, except two or 
three French gentlemen. So many of our company 
being French, I have a very good chance to hear and 
speak the language 



ANNE QORHAM EVERETT. 73 

" The quarter-deck — that is, the deck over the ladies' 
cabin — is an excellent place for walking ; and there I 
walk for three or four hours a day, sometimes with 
papa, sometimes with some gentlemen of our acquaint- 
ance on board, one of whom is a great walker. I read 
a great deal too, principally Sir Walter Scott and Shak- 
speare ; for there is a very good library on board. Yet 
after all, it is an idle sort of life, and every thing that is 
done, seems to be done in a lazy kind of way. We 
have breakfast at nine, luncheon at one, dinner at five, 
and tea at half past eight ; and it seems to me we are 
always eating. At twelve every day Captain Pell ascer- 
tains our latitude and longitude, so every day I shall 
put them down, that you may look on the map and see 
just where we are ; or ivere^ as it will be when you read 
this ; for when the letter reaches you, we shall be in 
Paris. New York, you know, from whence we started, is- 
in longitude 74° west from Greenwich, and we are now" 
in lono^itude 30°. So vou see we are more than 
half way there. The captain, I believe, expects to.> 
arrive in about eight days. W^ell, adieu for to-day." 

" Wednesday, 24th June, Long. 25° 30', Lat. 48° 30'. 

" Perhaps you will say I ought to have told you- 
about our journey from Boston to New York ; but we 
performed it very quietly in the cars and steamboat, and 
had no adventures. I ought to mention that I have not 
been sea-sick yet. Now I will give you an account of 
one day from my journal, which may serve as a modeL 
for all our other days ; with some little differences of 
course. This is the day, Friday, 19th June. 

" To-day was so excessively cold that the captain- 
ordered a fire to be made in the hurricane house ; so we 
all sat there for a good part of the day, and it was very 
7 



74 MEMOIE OF 

comfortable. Still, however, I walked the quarter-deck 
three or four hours in the course of the day, for I can- 
not do without exercise. Towards night the extreme 
cold abated, and having a grand breeze, we went along 
eleven miles and a half an hour. We have nearly done 
half our passage now." 

Of her very prosperous voyage she wrote in a letter 
to a cousin : — 

" There was but one day during our whole voyage, 
when I could not walk on deck, and then it rained. 
Indeed, the captain said we had a most remarkable 
voyage. No storms, no calms,, no head winds ; the 
royals, that is the upper sails, were only taken down 
once, and the top-sails were not reefed once. I should 
tell you I was not at all sea-sick, not even when the 
sea rolled, and we dashed on nearly twelve miles an 
hour. 

" We landed at Havre on the 2d of July, after a de- 
lightful voyage of twenty -three days to an hour. I had 
become so fond of some of the passengers, that I was 
sorry to leave them." She has previously several times 
spoken of their captain as " a pleasant, gentlemanly 
man/' and she adds, "he and I became very good 
friends before the voyage was over." 

Arrived at Havre, she writes in her journal : — 

" Thursday, 2d July. — Here we are at last, three 
thousand miles from home. This morning when I 
came upon the deck of the ship, I distinctly saw 
the trees, bouses, and so forth, on the land. We slowly 
approached the land and came up in a great dock. 
There was great bustle and confusion at the last, but it 
was an interesting scene ; and then, to hear everybody 
around talking French, though of course we expected 



ANNE QORHAM EVERETT. 75 

it, sounded very oddly. An officer came on board to 
examine our passport, and a little after twelve we 
landed. Mr. B. and Mr. H., had already landed. 
They happened to meet us, and walked with us to the 
Hotel de 1' Europe, where we have obtained most com- 
fortable apartments, and some of the nicest strawberries, 
raspberries, etc., I ever saw. It is delightful to us after 
eating dried fruits so long, to get this beautiful summer 
fruit. Mr. H. also brought us a beautiful bunch of 
roses, sweet-peas, etc., which we were almost wild to 
see." 

Early the next morning they left Havre in a steamer 
for Rouen, and enjoyed a charming sail up the lovely 
Seine, arriving at Rouen at four o'clock in the after- 
noon. Here they passed Saturday and Sunday, and 
Anne writes in her journal : — 

" Saturday, 4th July. — We celebrate this glorious 
day going about sight-seeing. A commissionaire^ as he is 
called, went with us to show us whatever is most worth 
seeino^. We went first to an old church built in the 
time of Francis I. ; it is called the church of St. Ouen, 
and is built entirely of stone, in the Gothic style, with 
immense arches and columns. The first thing that 
struck me was its great height. Our guide told us it 
was one hundred and eighty feet high, and four hundred 
long. It has colored glass windows, and the brilliancy 
of the coloring surpasses any thing I ever saw. The 
colors are said to penetrate through the entire glass, not 
to be painted merely on the outside, and papa said he 
believed the art was almost lost now ; there was, how- 
ever, one window which was painted last year, in imita- 
tion of an ancient one which I think was broken." 

She witnessed a marriage ceremony before the mayor, 
being " told, that in France, besides the religious cere- 



76 MEMOIR OF 

mony, there is always a civil ceremony ; " visited a gal- 
lery of beautiful paintings, and a library of thirty thou- 
sand volumes. One volume she describes as " bound 
in brass, with music to be chanted at the celebration of 
mass. The book was written by a monk of the last 
century ; and besides the music, there were beautiful 
pictures and gilding ; he made it all himself, and it took 
him thirty years." On Sunday she went to the Cathe- 
dral, where she '' saw the tombs of Rollo, the first Duke 
of Normandy, of the grandfather of William the Con- 
queror, and of Richard Coeur de Lion. In front of the 
Cathedral is a large square, where there were people 
selling most beautiful fruit and flowers ; and one thing 
that strikes us as very strange is, that the greater part 
of the shops are open, although it is Sunday, and 
people seem to buy and sell as on weekdays. On 
leaving the Cathedral, which is said to be as old as the 
eighth century, we walked along a very muddy street to 
' La place de la Pucelle,' the place where Joan of Arc 
was burnt by the English for sorcery. There is a mon- 
ument erected to her there." 

On Monday, the 6th, they arrived at Paris. One of 
her first letters from this city is written to her beloved 
grandpapa. 

" Paris, Rue de Rivoli, 24th July, 1840. 

" My dear Grandpapa, — I thought I would delay 
writing to you until I had seen something of Paris to 
tell you about. It took us about a week to find private 
lodgings and get settled ; but we are now very com- 
fortably established. Our di'awing-room is large and 
handsome, and overlooks the gardens of the Tuileries, 
so that we have a beautiful prospect. I must tell you 
a little about the gardens. They are very beautiful. 



AXNE GORHAM EVERETT. 77 

with large pieces of water, and fountains ; with cool, 
green groves, gay beds of flowers, and statues scattered 
all over the grounds. Every Sunday afternoon, and 
about seven o'clock on weekdays, it is a very animated 
scene. People of all sorts and classes congregate there, 
and seem as happy as possible, some walking and some 
sitting under the trees. One thing, however, strikes an 
American as strange ; at every gate stand two soldiers 
with guns; and if they see any one who they think 
ought not to enter, they motion him back. The palace 
overlooks the garden, but the king is not at present 
here ; he is at St. Cloud in the country. We walk in 
the garden every evening after dinner, (we dine at six 
o'clock,) and find it very pleasant. 

" We have lately been to see the gallery of the Louvre, 
a grand palace, joined to that of the Tuileries. There 
is a vast collection of paintings there, beginning from 
the most ancient masters, and coming down to modern 
times. Some of them, those by Corregio, Titian, 
Rubens, etc., are very fine, but there are a great many 
ordinary ones mixed in with them. The palace of the 
Louvre contains a great many other curiosities, too 
many to be seen in one day, so we shall visit it again 
before we leave Paris. 

" We went a day or two ago to visit the cemetery of 
Pere la Chaise, which is a good deal such a place as 
Mount Auburn, though, in my opinion, not nearly equal 
to it. I do not say this because Mount Auburn is in 
my own country, but because Pere la Chaise, having a 
great many monuments close together, has a more 
crowded, and less retired look than Mount Auburn. 
But there are some very beautiful places in it. Almost 
all the little inclosures are full of roses and other 

7* 



78 MEMOIR OF 

flowers ; and the monuments are built as little chapels, 
with painted glass windows, and small altars. Many 
of the tombs, monuments, etc., are hung with garlands. 

" While we were there we witnessed a military fu- 
neral, there being a company of soldiers who fired over 
the grave. The rain poured down while we were walk- 
ing, but it was soon over, and we received no other harm 
than being a little wet. Pere la Chaise contains a hun- 
dred acres of land, so it is a little larger than Mount 
Auburn. You see soldiers there as everywhere else. 
Just as our carriage left the gate, a custom-house officer 
put his head in at the window, to see that we took noth- 
ing away with us, I suppose. On returning home, we 
went to the church of Notre Dame. It is on an island 
in the river Seine, which was the ancient city of Paris, 
and which is now a great city of itself. The edifice is 
an imposing one with figures of saints on the outside 
in stone. We were taken to an apartment, where we 
saw the coronation robes of Napoleon, which were of 
rich crimson velvet, embroidered with gold. We were 
told they weighed eighty pounds, and were supported, 
when the Emperor wore them, by four marshals of 
France. We saw also a splendid robe given by Napo- 
leon to the Archbishop of Paris, and another given to 
the archbishop by the present king, at the birth of his 
grandson, the son of the Duke of Orleans. They 
showed us the very spot where Napoleon was crowned, 
and the place where the Pope sat to witness the cere- 
mony. 

" And now, my dear grandpapa, having told you so 
much about the curiosities of Paris, I must tell you 
a little about ourselves. We are all very well just now, 
and live very pleasantly. E. and S. go to school and 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 79 

C. and I have a French lady come every morning to 
teach us to speak. She speaks no English, and we 
have improved very much in speaking French. 

" We have not made many French acquaintances, for 
everybody is in the country now, but some of our 
friends who were on board ship visit us, and also other 
Americans. I must bid you good-by, now, my dear 
grandpapa, with love from all to all. 

" Your affectionate granddaughter, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

Of Paris, she wrote further to other friends : " Our 
rooms here are very pleasant, our drawing-room as large 
as ours in Summer street, and overlooking the beautiful 
gardens of the Tuileries, where I am never weary of walk- 
ing. I like Paris very much. Some of the streets are 
very large and handsome. The river Seine runs through 
the middle of the city, dividing it into two parts, and 
there are sixteen bridges over the river, six or seven of 
which I have been over. All around the city, or rather 
within the city, is a broad promenade, called the 
Boulevards, and all the city beyond the Boulevards, on 
the north side of the river, is called Faubourgs. So the 
streets within the Boulevards, when they continue out- 
side, are called by the same name with the addition of 
Faubourg. For instance, there is the Rue Poissoni^re ; 
outside the Boulevards, the Rue du Faubourg Poissoni- 
ere ; and so on. The Faubourgs are a great city of 
themselves. The distances in Paris are really immense. 
You may ride ever so far, and on looking at the maps 
you are astonished to find how little progress you have 
made. 

" We live here in a very quiet manner, much as we 
do at home. We do not see much society, because al- 



80 MEMOIR OF 

most everybody is in the country now; when people 
come in for the autumn, I suppose we shall see more. 
We have been visited by the daughter and grand- 
daughters of Lafayette, who spoke a great deal of the 
gratification he and his family had felt from his visit to 
America. 

" Not far from the garden of the Tuileries is the 
Place de la Concorde, where there are two magnificent 
fountains. I can imagine nothing more splendid. 
There is an immense basin, full of water, and all 
around its edge, are Tritons holding dolphins in their 
arms, from whose mouths water spouts on high, in a 
most graceful manner. Between the fountains is the 
Obelisk of Luxor, a monument from ancient Egypt, 
which is seventy-nine feet in height, and covered with 
hieroglyphics. It M^as brought from Egypt with im- 
mense labor and expense. A little further on is the 
avenue of the Champs Elysees, at the termination of 
which is the Triumphal Arc de I'Etoile, which was 
begun by Napoleon, and which, wdth the exception of 
the fountains, is the finest thing I have seen since I left 
America. It has emblematical figures upon it, relative 
to the great victories of the French army. . . . 

" We have, also, been to the Hotel des Invalides, 
which is a place for disabled soldiers, who are supported 
by the government. It is a very handsome building. 
The front is six hundred and twelve feet in length. At 
present there are about three thousand soldiers in it, but 
during the wars of Napoleon there were seven thou- 
sand. They took us into the great kitchen where the 
food is cooked for the establishment. It was on an im- 
mense scale. There were huge copper boilers for soup, 
and a great spit which roasts four hundred pounds of 
meat at a time. We were then shown into a room, 



I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 81 

where is kept a service of plate, given to the establish- 
ment by the Empress Maria Louisa. It was very hand- 
some, being of solid silver, and containing, among other 
things, twelve soup tureens and forty-eight large 
plates for eating. It cost a hundred thousand francs, 
which is equal to twenty thousand dollars. The man 
who showed it to us would take up each article, and 
run on with a description of it, in such set terms, that 
we were sure he had learned it by heart, to say to every 
visitor; it was very amusing to hear him. We then 
went under the great dome of the building, and saw the 
place where the remains of Napoleon are to be buried. 
One of the king's sons is now bringing them home 
from the Island of St. Helena, but I am afraid that we 
shall not be in Paris at the time of the interment." 



CHAPTER VII 



Home in paris — more sight-seeing — Versailles — visit to the 
chateau of la grange — last letter from paris. 



" Why this is France! 
Nature is here like a living romance, 
Look at its vines, and streams, and skies, 
Its glowing feet and dreamy eyes! " 



Returning from a walk, after a residence of about 
three weeks in Paris, Anne writes : " We returned to 
our lodgings ; I can hardly call it home ; " — nearly two 
months later she was able to write to her friends, " I 
love France and I love the people." One or two cus- 
toms she mentions as strange, — the manner of shop- 
ping, which is, never to give the first price asked, or you 
will be cheated, and another, that " young ladies are not 
allowed to walk in the streets alone, and if C. or I wish 
to go out, mamma or papa or somebody has to go with 
us." Once only she expresses a feeling of loneliness, 
and then it was in referring to her want of companions 
of her own age. She adds, however, with much phi- 
losophy, " But when I came to Europe, I expected to 
miss something, and if I did not I should probably 
never want to go home." 

" The climate of Paris," she writes, " is very variable 
and by no means so agreeable as has been represented 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 83 

to US." The fruits and flowers, however, charmed her. 
" We have had all summer most beautiful fruit, and in 
greater abundance, and three weeks earlier, than we have 
it at home. We have had all sorts of plums, peaches, 
etc., and fresh figs in plenty. But papa says that good 
as they are, they are not equal to the Italian figs ; so 
we shall have quite a treat when we get to Italy. 
Apricots have been in great abundance, and gi'apes are 
beginning to be plentiful ; every kind of fruit ripens 
here sooner than at home." 

The identity of our young friend is not lost in the 
traveller. The same distinguishing traits mark her 
character abroad, as at home ; and the ledger is not 
more strict in its accounts, than is her journal in its 
record of her time. Study, reading, and sewing were 
still her daily employments, amid all the varied sight- 
seeing which engrossed so much of her time and 
thoughts. She could spend hours in some tour of ob- 
servation, full of absorbing interest to her active mind, 
and returning home, composedly sit down to finish the 
day with sewing, or reading, or study. " I sat still a 
little while," is occasionally mentioned in her journal as 
an unusual use of her time, and then it seems to have 
been a dernier resort, from fatigue or accident, rather 
than inclination. W^hen journeying, books and sewing 
were taken with her, that employment might not be 
lacking in case of any unexpected moments of leisure. 

Her heart turned affectionately towards her native 
country and home. There are no signs of homesick- 
ness or ennui, but she entreats her friends to write often, 
saying to one of her correspondents, " you cannot im- 
agine, my dear aunt, what pleasure it gives to those in 
a foreign land to hear from their own family." Writ- 
ing to her aunt, who had taken their house at Water- 



84 MEMOIR OF 

town, she says : " I hope that you continue, dear Aunt 
F., to enjoy yourself in our house. Dear old house! I 
long to see it sometimes. We were rejoiced to hear 
our strawberries did so well, for Uncle S. persisted in 
saying, last spring, they would come to nothing, but he 
may be sure that every thing papa planted will turn out 
well." 

She read the American newspapers with great avidity. 
" Soon after reaching Paris, a gentleman," she writes, 
" brought us some Boston papers to see. I was so glad 
to hear any news from home, and I believe I read the 
greater part of them three times over ! We take two 
papers every morning, one from England, and the other 
published in Paris, but though they are very good, they 
are not like those from dear Boston." Again she 
writes : " Before school this mornings I occupied myself 
with reading the papers from home. There was a good 
deal of news to me in them, at least, it seems so now ; 
though when I was at home I was apt to complain of 
them as having no news." 

Every page of her journal becomes now extremely in- 
teresting, but we must content ourselves with only a few 
extracts. Of the " Marche aux Fleurs," she writes : — 

" 25th July. — I woke up at five this morning, just as 
I wished to. Mr. H. called for us exactly at six, and 
we started. It began to rain again, but not much, and 
we did not get ^vet. The flower market is in the Cite, 
and we crossed the Pont au Change to get to it. It is 
held under a group of trees, and when we arrived there 
we were well rewarded for going, for it was very beau- 
tiful. All sorts of roses, carnations, oleanders, orange 
flowers, and other beautiful plants met our eyes. Papa 
bought a pretty double oleander for mamma, and Mr. 
H. kept buying all sorts of flowers ; they were all in 






ANNE QORHAM EVERETT. 85 

pots. It was amusing to hear him beat down the 
sellers, for in Paris you must never give them the first 
price they ask ; so he would say, ' How much is this 
flower ? ' ' Twenty sous.' ' No, fifteen,' would be his 
answer. ' Oh, non, monsieur, tw^enty.' ' Fifteen, fifteen,'" 
and they always came down to his price. After walk- 
ing round two or three times, we went back over the 
Pont Notre Dame, and in going home passed through, 
the Marche des Innocens, where every kind of fruit and 
vegetables is sold. It was a perfect scene of confusion^ 
everybody running a different way ; some bringing in 
their produce, and housekeepers everywhere buying 
their dinner for the day. We were impeded at every 
step of our progress, but Mr. H. guided us safely 
through it, for he has been in Paris before, and know&' 
all about it." 

The 27th, 28th, and 29th of July are devoted by the- 
Parisians to the celebration of the Revolution of 1830., 
Anne gives the following account of the public festivi- 
ties on this occasion : — 

" 28th July. — We took our lesson rather earlier this- 
morning, and about half past eleven we all, but mamma 
and S., went to the Boulevard des Italiens, to see the 
funeral procession, with the victims of July, as they are 
called, pass by to the Place de la Bastile. We had a 
very good window at the corner of the Boulevard and 
the Rue Louis le Grand, and saw perfectly well. There 
was an immense procession, all military men, and about 
in the centre of it was the funeral car. It was drawn, 
by twenty-four horses, covered with black cloth, spotted 
with silver stars. The car itself was very lofty and> 
magnificent. It was hung with black, studded with 
silver, and on different parts of it were placed chaplets- 

8 



S6 MEMOIR OF 

of a flower called ' immortelle.'' There were fifty coffins 
in it and ten bodies in each coffin." 

" 29th. — To-day is the last of the three days, and it 
was celebrated in various ways. Papa, C, and I went 
into the Champs Elysees this morning, where there was 
a variety of sports, in true Parisian taste. There was 
a temporary theatre set up under the trees, and the 
actors seemed to be performing some military manoeu- 
vre, for every now and then, we heard their pistols go 
off. We could not get near it for the crowd. There 
was a high mast, called the ' Mat de Cocagne ; ' on the 
top of it were a few silver utensils placed, and he who 
could climb up to the top of the greased and slippery 
mast, was entitled to some of the silver. While we 
were there a man was laboring up the mast, sanding it 
as he went. He did not get up while we were there, 
but the boys went afterwards, and said a man did get 
up, and took the silver. In short, there were all sorts of 
games, and the people seemed very happy. 

" After dinner, towards night, we walked in the gar- 
den, in front of the palace. While we were there the 
king and all the royal family came out on the balcony 
and showed themselves. The garden was beautifully 
illuminated to-night by pyramids of light among all the 
trees and walks, and a splendidly illuminated platform 
with colored balls, in front of the palace for the band to 
play. About nine o'clock there were magnificent fire- 
works let off from the Place de la Concorde. All the 
public buildings were illuminated and looked finely ; 
among others, the Triumphal Arc de I'Etoile, and the 
column of the Place Vendome." 

"1st August. — We went to-day to the Louvre to see 
what remained to be seen. We went first to the collec- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 87 

tion of statuary, which is very fine and extensive. 
There were statues and busts of many of the Roman 
emperors and empresses, and numerous statues of the 
heathen gods and goddesses. In some parts of the 
rooms devoted to statuary, were beautiful floors of 
mosaic, of ancient workmanship, carefully inlaid. 

" We then went into a suite of rooms which contained 
all sorts of curiosities from ancient Egypt and Greece. 
There were all their cooking utensils, drinking cups, etc., 
with some old signet rings, made of heavy gold. In 
this collection there were some magnificent ancient 
vases. We passed from this suite into one which con- 
tained all sorts of little ships ; models of those used in 
the French navy. These were really beautiful, and 
some of them looked so natural, I longed to get into 
them. There were, also, in this gallery models of sev- 
eral naval stations, with the green grass, trees, and 
water, and the little ships sailing. The last collection 
we saw was a collection of Spanish pictures, the 
greater part of which are very fine. There was also a 
gallery with the drawings of the ancient masters, but 
as we were by this time tired, we did not examine them 
very closely." 

" 2d September. — We went to-day to see the Royal 
manufactory of the Gobelin Tapestry. It is so called 
because a man named Gobelin first worked in the build- 
ing, though he was only a wool-dyer. It is a sort of 
weaving, that we saw. The workman sits on the wrong 
side of his work, and passes up and down the long 
threads ; little shuttles with worsted or silk on them, as 
the case may be. The picture they copied was placed 
behind them, and one of them told papa that they 
looked round at it once every quarter of an hour. The 
colors were most brilliant, and most of their models 



8R MEMOIR OF 

were pictures taken from Raphael, Rubens, and the 
other great masters. 

" We then went to view the carpet manufactory, 
which is a part of the establishment. Here the men 
work on the front of their work, and cut off their ends 
on the right side, which gives the carpet a beautiful 
fleecy look. Some of the patterns are most exquisite. 
The carpets are all woven in one piece, which makes 
them much more splendid than when pieced together. 
There was one carpet for the king's library at St. Cloud, 
which had a rich bunch of red feathers in the middle, 
and an oval wreath of grapes, peaches, and flowers 
round it. That was the middle, and the rest of the 
carpet was some rich design, that I could not see 
entirely, it being rolled up. It was the most superb 
thing I ever saw. These carpets are not to be sold ; 
they are only for royalty. We were told it took about 
three years to finish a picture or carpet entirely. 

" In the exhibition room, there were some splendid 
pictures, which were equal to the best paintings. There 
was a picture of Peter the Great, and his mother; the 
Czarina had one of the most expressive countenances I 
ever saw ; another of Alexander meeting the family of 
Darius ; and a portrait of His Majesty Louis Philippe, 
which was an excellent likeness. We also saw a por- 
trait of the Queen of the French, when she was 
Duchess of Orleans, holding her little son, no^\^ the 
Duke of Orleans, by the hand. This picture was not 
yet copied in the tapestry, but was begun. We were 
greatly pleased with the manufactory, and I should 
have been very sorry to have missed seeing it." 

" 7th September. — It being very pleasant to-day we 
determined to go and see something, and we fixed upon 
the Triumphal Arc de I'Etoile. It is a good long 



ANNE QORHAM EVERETT. 89 

walk to the arch, but when you get there, it repays you 
for your trouble. It is really a magnificent arch ; a 
hundred and fifty-two feet high, with strong bas reliefs 
on the outside, in which the figure of Napoleon is very 
conspicuous. This arch was begun by the emperor on 
his birthday, the 15th of August, 1806, to celebrate his 
triumphs, and it has been lately finished by his present 
Majesty. We wished to go up to the top of the arch, 
as there is a fine view of Paris to be obtained from it. 
So we were furnished with a lamp at the door, as the 
passage is very dark in some parts. We ascended two 
hundred and seventy-two steps, and then came out on 
the top, where there is indeed a beautiful prospect. 
You see almost the whole of the city of Paris, with 
many of the adjacent villages, and the coup d'oeil is 
very fine. When we came back, papa bought two 
medals among a collection which was at the door, on 
one of which was Napoleon and the arch ; on the other, 
Louis Philippe and the Obelisk of Luxor." 

" 10th. — Papa received last ni^ht a note, inviting 
him to dine with the king at St. Cloud, in consequence, 
I suppose, of his presentation being defeated, by an 
emente among the ouvriers the day it was to have 
taken place. He was to go a little before five, as St. 
Cloud is some miles from Paris. I took a short walk 
to-day, but did not stay out long, having a cold and a 
slight cough. Papa started at the appointed hour, and 
pretty soon after, the king's carriage dashed by. He 
had been at the Tuileries, and was going out to St. 
Cloud. First came two outriders in the royal livery, 
then a troop of dragoons, and then the royal carriage, in 
which I saw the king very plainly, and mamma thought 
she saw the queen. Immediately following the carriage 
was another troop of dragoons, and then came another 

8* 



90 MEMOIR OF 

carriage with six horses, with some of the court in it, I 
suppose. The royal carriage had eight horses. It was 
.quite a grand pageant. 

" We went to-day to the Mint. "We saw the whole 
process of coining, from the smoothing of the silver 
plate to the stamping the impression of the king's head 
on it. After the money had been cut out by a little 
machine to its round form, it is weighed in a pair of 
small scales, and the pieces which have just the right 
weight are separated from those which are too heavy or 
too light. Those which are too heavy, have a little 
shaved off from them, and the light ones are melted 
over again. We then went into the stamping room, 
where the impression is put on the coin, and where 
they do twenty-five thousand in a day. After we had 
seen all the operations, we went into the museum, 
where there is a fine collection of coins and medals. 
We saw the coins of France from the eai^liest kings up 
to the present day, American, British, Spanish, Turkish, 
Greek, and many other coins. Some of the medals 
were beautiful and the impressions of the latest were 
most exquisitely done, and of the highest polish. There 
were a great many of the heads of the kings of France, 
with others showing their great exploits ; there were 
particularly a great number in the reigns of Louis XIV. 
and Napoleon ; and there was a little model of the 
column of the Place VendSme, which was very pretty." 

" 12th. — We went to-day to see the Musee d'Artil- 
lerie in the Faubourg St. Germain, which is a collec- 
tion of all sorts of armor, a great deal of which be- 
longed to the old kings of France. We saw the suit 
of armor worn by Francis I. at the battle of Pavia ; 
the armor was put on a figure, which was mounted on 
horseback ; we saw, too, the sword of the same mon- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 91 

arch. Then there was the armor of Charles the Ninth, 
of Henry the Thh'd, and of the famous Henry, Duke of 
Guise. The latter armor had the marks of several 
battles on it. I observed, too, the coat of mail of Henry 
IV., and the very poniard with which the fanatic, Ra- 
vaillac, stabbed that good king. We saw the swords 
of several great men, and a great many curious guns, 
spears, and other ancient implements of war. There 
were some old shields and helmets which interested me 
very much ; one of the helmets is said to have belonged 
to Louis IX. or St. Louis, as he is called. In the pas- 
sage, as we went down, we saw some cannon, with a 
sentence from the Koran on them in Arabic, which 
were taken at Algiers in 1830. The whole exhibition 
interested me very much." 

" 23d August. — It was very pleasant to-day, and we 
started for Versailles about half past nine, in a carriage, 
thinking it would be more comfortable to go in that 
way than by the railroad. We arrived in about two 
hours, and went first to see the collection of museums 
in the Palace of Versailles. The palace itself is im- 
mense, much larger than either the Louvre or Tuileries. 
There were many galleries of paintings. A great num- 
ber of historical paintings, representing gi'eat battles 
and sieges ; there were very good portraits of Napoleon, 
and of the present king, Louis Philippe. We then 
ascended another pair of stairs, and came into a suite 
of rooms w^here were portraits of the old kings and 
queens of France, and many other distinguished per- 
sons ; there was one of JNIary, Queen of Scots, which 
represented her as very beautiful. 

" Among the statuary, w^as the statue of Joan of Arc, 
sculptured by a late daughter of the King of the French. 



92 MEMOIR OF 

It was most exquisitely done. We then went through 
a suite of State apartments, which were very splendid. 
In one of them was a rich bed, with very high curtains, 
in which Louis the Fourteenth died, and in which no 
one has since slept. This room opens out on a balcony 
where the unfortunate Marie Antoinette showed herself 
to the furious mob below. On a table beside the bed, 
was a crown of red velvet and gold. 

" After leaving the palace, we went to take dinner 
with Mr. Walsh, a friend of papa's, and after dinner we 
went to see the fountains, in the gardens of the palace. 
The gardens are very beautiful. There are bright 
flowers, fresh green alleys, and groves of trees. We 
walked from one grove to another to see the fountains, 
which were magnificent. There was one that threw up 
water to the height of nearly a hundred feet. These 
fountains only play three or four times every year, for it 
costs seventy or eighty thousand francs every time they 
play. We left the garden a little before six, and rode 
home in our carriage. We arrived a little after eight, 
having had a pleasant, though a rather fatiguing day." 

In prominent relief over all other enjoyments of her 
summer in Paris, stands her visit to La Grange. She 
mentions a resemblance the place bore in some respects 
to a beautiful country-seat at Watertown, in the neigh- 
borhood of their own home there, and at the same time 
says, " any thing in Europe that resembles home has a 
claim upon my regard that it would not otherwise 
have." And some time afterward, speaking of the 
brilliant parterres of flowers in the garden of the Tuil- 
eries, her fond reminiscences of La Grange came up, and 
she adds, " but I think the handsomest flowers I have 
seen this season are at La Grange ; however, I am 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 93 

rather disposed to think every thing about that place 
perfect, including the inhabitants, and so perhaps that 
blinds my judgment to the beauties of other things." 

" At about one, we arrived at Rosay, a little village 
near La Grange, where we found Mr. Lafayette's car- 
riages waiting for us. We entered the castle by an arch- 
way through a tower covered with ivy, which was 
planted by Mr. Fox, the British statesman, while on a 
visit to Lafayette. The castle is built round three 
sides of a square, and was originally built round four 
sides ; but the fourth side now opens on a beautiful 
lawn. The house is very ancient, and is said to have 
been a hunting-seat of Charles IX. of cruel memory. 
In the first Revolution, there was a design to pull it 
down, but it was saved by a worthy mason of Rosay, 
who still lives, and who, on being applied to, to know 
the cost of pulling it down, made it out that it would 
be more than the stones were worth ; which is very 
likely true, for the walls are very thick. The estate 
consists of seven hundred acres, and has a great many 
walks around it. We walked a good deal in them 
before dinner, and found it very pleasant. The family 
received us very kindly, and showed us all round. We 
saw a boat, called ' American Star,' which won the 
match in rowing with a British boat, and which was 
given to Lafayette during his last visit to America. 
He built a house on purpose for it, and there it is. We 
went to bed early, in a very pleasant chamber, looking 
out on the beautiful lawn." 

" 27th. — A most beautiful day. The family did not 
breakfast till half past ten, so we had a cup of coffee 
brought to us in our rooms about eight o'clock. Then 
we went to walk with papa in a very pleasant grove, 
not far from the house, when Mr. Lafayette came to 



94 MEMOIR OF 

meet us. We picked up a good many acorns there 
and made little baskets of them. 

" The breakfast, at which we all (nineteen) sat jound 
a great table, was more Jike a dinner than a breakfast, 
with everything nice you can conceive. I sit between 
Mr. Lafayette and his son, and speak French all the 
time, but I find very little difficulty. 

" It has continued warm all day, but we have been 
able to walk in the groves and woods very well. This 
evening we took some nets and tried to catch some 
little shell-fishes that they call e crevis.se s^ but we were 
not successful and mean to try again to-morrow." 

" 28th. — It rained this morning when we rose, but 
the rain soon ceased, and the pleasantest weather im- 
aginable succeeded. Just before we went to walk 
Madame Lafayette gave us each a pretty little twine 
purse, the twine being made of the fibrous parts of the 
aloe plant. They were made in Africa, from whence 
they were brought by Mr. Oscar Lafayette, who has 
been in the African army. 

" We then took a walk in some of the beautiful 
groves, and returned to the house about two. About 
four o'clock some of the ladies took us to the rooms 
occupied by General Lafayette just before his death. 
We saw his bedroom, which was just as he left it, and 
at his writing-table, are his pens, sand, and paper-cutter, 
as they were when he died. 

" In his library are a gi'eat many American books, 
and a variety of swords, canes, and other curious things 
which Lafayette brought from America. We saw 
Washington's spectacles and umbrella, which were 
given to his friend. In the centre of the room, was a 
splendid golden vase, with figures and emblems on it, 
which was given to the general by the National Guard 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 95 

when he ceased to command it. In the antechamber, 
which is a small room, hung with flags of different 
countries, is a picture of the gaoler of Olmutz opening 
the door of Lafayette's prison. This was copied in oil 
from a picture which one of Lafayette's daughters, who 
was with her father in the prison, made on her thumb 
nail. It is a very good picture. Then we went into a 
little room down stairs, which is filled with his Ameri- 
can presents. There are some wax candles there, which 
were discovered in an old chest during Lafayette's visit 
to Yorlvtown, and wdiich were part of Lord Cornwallis' 
stores. There were all sorts of curious things there, 
and I had heard so much of Lafayette's museum, that 
I am delighted to have seen it. 

" We took another walk after dinner, and succeeded 
n catching some ecrevisses. In the evening Mr. Oscar 
took a map of Algiers, pointed out the route of the 
French army, and told us the whole history of the 
African expedition, (in which he was wounded,) which 
was very interesting." 

The next day she writes, " Before we went, I took 
some of the ivy on the wall to preserve as a souvenir," 
and after reaching home she says, " notwithstanding I 
was glad to get home, I wanted to be back at La 
Grange again. Apropos of something we were saying, 
papa said that Mr. Lafayette told him, that when he 
was staying in America at Mount Vernon with General 
Washington, Louis Philippe, the present king of the 
French, came there on his travels ; and they two, Mr. 
Lafayette and the then Duke of Orleans, pasted the 
paper upon the walls of an apartment." 

The following is the last letter written by Anne from 
Paris : — 



> 



96 MEMOIR OP 



"Paris, 10th October, 1840. 

" My dear Aunt, — As I have a good private oppor- 
tunity to send, I thought I would write one more letter 
before we leave Paris, which we shall do in two or 
three days. We have passed a very pleasant summer 
here, and I shall really feel sorry to leave, though I 
wish to see Italy too, and we are all ready to go, and 
do not seem to have any thing to do here. We have 
been faithfully going round, seeing sights all summer. 
The last thing we have seen — though last, not least — 
is the Chapelle Expiatoire, which was erected by Louis 
XVIII. over the spot where Louis XVI. and his queen 
were originally buried. It is a small building in the 
form of a cross, and surrounded by cypress trees. On 
one side of the altar is the statue of the king, supported 
by an angel ; on the pedestal, which is black, is in- 
scribed his last will in letters of gold. Opposite is a 
statue of Marie Antoinette, also supported by an angel; 
and on her pedestal are extracts from her last letter to 
Madame Elizabeth. The statues are exquisitely sculp- 
tured. We then descended some stairs to a vault, and 
stood over the very spot where the king and queen were 
buried by the revolutionists, after their execution. Over 
the king's grave, a small altar is erected ; the queen's 
grave is a little to the right of it in a niche. We saw, 
also, the place where the Duke of Orleans, the father of 
King Louis Philippe, was buried. The bodies are not 
in the chapel now ; they were removed to St. Denis at 
the restoration, and buried with the rest of the French 
kings. The place where the Chapel now is, was for- 
merly a garden, and was preserved with great care 
during the Revolution, by a friend of the king. This 



ANNE GOBHAM EVEKETT. 97 

man is said to have sent annually to the Duchess 
d'Angouleme a bouquet of flowers, gathered from the 
graves of her parents. I was as much pleased with 
the chapel as with any thing I have seen. 

" We dined the other day with the American minis- 
ter, General Cass. The French dinners are much more- 
agreeable than American ones. Instead of all the 
parade, and ' Sir, will you take this ? ' and ' Ma'am,, 
shall I help you to that ? ' the servants hand round all 
the food, and your plate is changed at least ten times 
in the com*se of the dinner. After the course of meat,, 
etc., is over, there is no set out of pies, blanc-mangers, 
jellies, and so on; but a Charlotte Russe^ or some suchi 
thing is handed, and then come the ices and fruit. We 
did not remain long at table, and it was not tedious at 
all. It is not the fashion in France to introduce people- 
to each other ; it is enough introduction that they meet 
at the same house ; so you speak to people that you 
never saw before, and whose names it is a chance if 
you know. The Greek ambassador, among other com-- 
pany, was at this dinner ; he had on his national cos- 
tume, and a red woollen cap on his head, which they 
say he never takes off, not even to the king. He spoke 
French very well. All General C.'s family are very 
pleasant, and they have been as kind to us as pos- 
sible. 

" There is no material alteration in the fashions, or I 
would mention it. But I must tell you about the even- 
ing gloves the young ladies wear, they are so pretty. 
They are very short white kid gloves, hardly coming 
above the wrist, and at the top a row of tulle plaited 
on, with sw^eet little flowers interspersed, and a bow of 
white satin ribbon. Mamma has bought me a dear 

9 



98 MEMOIR OF 

little pair. One of the most favorite evening dresses 
for young ladies, is a white muslin skirt, and velvet 
waist; they are very pretty, with the gloves I have 
spoken of, and white satin shoes. 

" We have been lately to the Italian Opera, to hear 
the singing of Mme. Grisi, who is considered the first 
singer on the stage. We saw the Opera of Norma; 
the scene is laid in Gaul, in the times of the Druids. 
The singing was indeed beautiful ; I was delighted 
with Grisi. Last night, also, we went to the theatre to 
see Mile. Rachel, the celebrated tragic actress. Her 
acting surpassed any I ever saw. She played the part 
of Roxana in Racine's play of Bajazet, which I dare 
say you have read. She excels in expressing scorn and 
irony, and she acted her whole part to perfection. She 
was dressed very richly ; she had on a green velvet 
dress, richly embroidered with gold, two superb dia- 
mond necklaces on her neck, a spray of diamonds in 
her hair, or rather in her Turkish turban, and the richest 
diamond rings on her fingers. 

" Having told you so much about Mile. Rachel, I 
Avill tell you a little about ourselves. We are all very 
well, except S., who is just recovering from the 
mumps ; this has retarded our journey into Italy a 
little. We have, in general, had very good health this 
summer, except once, when we had unpleasant weather 
for three weeks, papa and I had severe coughs, which 
lasted till we were almost worn out; but that is all 
over now, and we are enjoying the most delightful 
weather I almost ever experienced ; it reminds me 
of the beautiful days we had last October in the coun- 
try. 

" I must now bid you goodby, dear Aunt H. This 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 99 

is my last letter from France for a long time ; I shall 
not write again to anybody till we get to Italy. E. W. 
is going to live with us this winter. Give my love to 
all the family, and all my friends, and believe me, 
" Your affectionate niece, 

" Anne G. Everett." 



CHAPTER VIII 



Journey from paris to Florence — places en route — arrival 
at florence correspondence. 



*' Seek knowledge, by the rosy light 
Of 3'outh's unfolding morn; 

With ardor uncontrolled 

Seek wisdom's love sublime, 

And win the garland, and the gold 
That cannot change with time." 



Sailing from Marseilles, Anne writes : " So at last 
we have left the shores of La belle France, where we 
have passed just four months, — and very happy months 
they have been to me." She had greatly improved her- 
self in the French language, being able to read, write, 
and speak it with almost as much ease as her own 
English ; she had faithfully visited every spot of his- 
torical and local interest in Paris and the neighborhood, 
and it is probably in reference to this, that she says in 
a letter, " we seem to have very little left here to do." 
It was, therefore, with no little pleasure that she looked 
forward to their proposed residence in Florence, — to 
her a new country, with new associations, and another 
language to employ the activity of her mind. 

The journey from Paris to Florence was somewhat 
adventurous, and an account of it is drawn partly from 
her journal and in part from her letters. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 101 

Journal. "13th October, 1840, Fontainebleau. — We 
arrived here at two o'clock this afternoon. We left 
Paris at half past eight this morning, in a post-carriage 
with four horses ; we were rather closely stowed, but 
the carriage was a very easy one, and we got along 
very well. The country on each side of the road we 
found very pretty. One feature in the landscape strikes 
an American as strange ; — there are no fences to 
separate the fields from each other, or from the road. 
We went about thirty-five miles in six hours, changing 
horses every five or six miles, and on arriving here, we 
were shown to very good rooms in the hotel. 

" We took a little luncheon, and then went to see 
the Royal Chateau of Fontainebleau. The castle is 
very large, built round three sides of a square. It is 
not handsome on the outside, having a very rough ap- 
pearance, but within it is very splendid ; the rooms are 
all richly gilded, and in some of them are fine paint- 
ings. One suite of rooms is inhabited by the Duke and 
Duchess of Orleans ; this suite was newly gilded and 
decorated at the time of the duke's marriage in 1837. 
The decorations of the bedchamber, above all, are very 
rich, and the greater part of the rooms are hung with 
beautiful Gobelin tapestry, which resembles a fine 
painting. The queen's bedchamber is very splendid, 
the furniture being of the richest kind. The bedcham- 
ber used by Napoleon, is also very handsome, the furni- 
ture of the room and bed being of dark green and red 
velvet. In the cabinet adjoining this room we saw the 
facsimile of Napoleon's act of abdication, written in a 
very illegible hand, and also the very table on which he 
wrote it. Among other rooms, was a superb ballroom 
or dancing-hall, like the other rooms, gilt, and the ceil- 

9* 



102 MEMOIR OF 

ing inlaid with mother-of-pearl. It is called the ' Salon 
.of Henri IL' 

" After leaving the palace, we walked in the Jardin 
Anglais^ as it is called ; instead of being laid out in the 
stiff' French style, it is planted in the English manner, 
following the beauties of nature. There was a small 
canal, with steps leading down to it, on v/hich were 
placed geraniums, and five or six pretty swans in the 
canal, which swam up to us as if they had been accus- 
tomed to be fed ; but we had nothing to give them. 
There was a fine sheet of water in the garden, with 
.several pleasure-boats on it. 

"Just as we left the castle, the great clock struck 
four. We returned to the hotel, where they gave us a 
dinner cooked in the nicest manner. After dinner I 
occupied myself in writing, and we went to bed 
vcarly." 

" 14th. Auxerre. — All day on the road to-day ; we 
!have found it rather fatiguing. The distances of the 
post are called myriametres and kilometres, instead of 
leagues as formerly. We went eleven myriametres to- 
day, or one hundred and ten kilometres. A myria- 
metre is about six miles. The country on each side of 
the road is very pretty. We arrived here at half past 
six. The hotel is not quite as nice as that at Fontaine- 
bleau, but it is very well." 

"^' 15th. Saulieu. — We started again about eight 
o'clock. The morning was very clear and pleasant, and 
the landscape very pretty. Some of the trees really 
looked like an American forest, variegated with beauti- 
ful colors, though not to such a high degree. Our 
journey to-day was not so long, as we had only about 
nine myriametres to go, and we were not quite so tired 



A^^NE GOEHAM EVERETT. 103 

as yesterday. We arrived here about a quarter before 
five. It is not much of a place, and the inn, for you 
can hardly call it a hotel, is by no means equal to the 
others we have been at. But the beds are very good, 
which is the main point when you are to stay the night 
at any ])lace. After dinner I wrote a little while, but 
went to bed early." 

" 16th. ChalonS'Siir- Saone. — We reached this place 
a little after three o'clock this afternoon ; our journey 
was not very fatiguing to-day, as we went only six 
posts, or about seven myriametres and a half. .... 

" This is quite a considerable place. It is called 
Chalons-sur-Saone to distinguish it from another Cha- 
lons on the river Marne, a little east of Paris. We 
leave here to-mori'ow in a steamboat, which starts for 
Lyons at six o'clock, so that we shall be obliged to get 
up very early." 

" 17th. Lyons. — We reached this ancient city at about 
half past five this afternoon. . . . The banks of the river 
Saone are not in general so pleasant as those of the Seine, 
but there were some green hills and old castles, that 
looked very pretty. It is now the season of the vint- 
age, and everywhere we saw vines filled with clusters 
of ripe grapes. The river is so shallow in some places, 
that at times we went very slowly, but generally we 
went at a pretty good rate. We passed under several 
bridges, and there was a very clever contrivance for 
lowering the chimney of the engine, so that it might 
pass under the bridge ; we passed in this way under at 
least ten bridges, I should think. When we landed at 
th(' quay at Lyons there was a terrible crowding to get 
out of the steamboat, and in one place, where the pas- 
sage was very narrow, a woman with a very odd bonnet 
on, stopped to kiss a boy on both cheeks, as is the cus- 



104 MEMOIR OF 

torn of the French, and thus blocked up the passage. 
However, we got out safe at last, and came to the Hotel 
de I'Europe, where they gave us some rooms, of which 
the distinguishing characteristic is their extreme height. 
We met at the door of the hotel a son of Mr. Webster 
who is going to live with us in Florence this winter. 
He came from Geneva to Lyons in the diligence, travel- 
ling all night. We are to stay to-morrow at Lyons, to 
rest a little after the fatigues of our five days' journey 
from Paris." 

" 18th. — We slept somewhat later this morning, not 
having to hurry up, and we had breakfast a little after 
eight. After breakfast, we went out to see the town a 
little. We went to see the museum first. There are 
all sorts of stuffed birds, beasts, and fishes ; also a 
great many fossil animals, and all sorts of butterflies, 
beetles, and other insects. Then we went into the 
room where the antiquities are kept ; the most carious 
among them are some large bronze tables, with a speech 
of the Emperor Claudius engraved on them. They 
were dug up in the city of Lyons, in a street which is 
called the street of the Claudian tables ; there are also 
some fine pictures by the ancient masters. 

" We have also been to see the old Cathedral, which 
is an imposing edifice ; it has the beautiful stained glass 
windows that all the old churches have. There are some 
very old tombs and monuments, and papa made out 
the inscriptions on some of them ; they were in Latin. 
The Cathedral is directly opposite bur windows, so we 
can see the outside, which is very grand. Directly 
above it is a high mountain with an old castle on the 
top of it. Papa told me- that the pilgrims used to go 
there in great numbers ; and when they were assailed 
by the beggars who lined the road, they would give 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 105 

them a Hard, which is the third of a sous ; but if they 
did not happen to have a liard, they would always 
force the beggars to make change." 

Some account of the further progress of the journey 
down the Rhone to Avignon, thence to Marseilles and 
from that city to Florence, will be found in the follow- 
ing letters to her correspondents : — 

"Avignon, 24th October, 1840. 

"Dear R., — I told you I would write to you when I 
reached Florence, but circumstances, as you will see 
when I come to tell them, have induced me to alter my 
mind, and anticipate a little 

" At Lyons we took the steamboat again, and sailed 
till night, when we stopped at a little village called 
Bourg-St.-Andiol, where we spent the night, and ris- 
ing the next morning at four, which we had done the 
day before at Lyons, we descended the river to Avig- 
non, where we arrived on Tuesday the 20th, one week 
from the time we left Paris 

" Since we have been in Avignon, which is a fine old 
city, we have explored the wonders and antiquities of 
the place, which are numerous. We have visited the 
ancient palace of the popes, a good deal of which is now 
in ruins, and seen the rooms in which the dark myste- 
ries of the Inquisition were carried on. We have visited 
the Cathedral, the Museum, the Hotel des Invalides, 
the tomb of Laura, and more than all, have been to 
Vaucluse ; Vauciuse, the abode of Petrarch ! 

" At Vaucluse, we saw the fountain called Petrarch's 
fountain ; it is in a deep grotto of solid rock, and is 
the purest, most limpid water I ever saw, of a deep 
blue or rather greenish blue color, and so clear, that if 
you throw a stone in, you can see it descend a long 



106 MEMOIE OF 

time. One of the gentlemen took a stone for me out 
of the water, and we all washed our hands in this beau- 
tiful fountain, and then we climbed up the steep ascent 
that led to the path. On the side of the rock, near the 
fountain, in a spot that I should call inaccessible, is 
Petrarch's fig-tree ; the guide says it bears very good 
figs ; but I doubt if it was there in Petrarch's time. 
We then went to the house which stands where the 
poet's house once stood, and plucked a branch of laurel 
from his garden. I really enjoyed my visit there very 
much, and should like to have staid there a few days 
instead of a few hours." 

" Florence, 17th November, 1840. 
" Dear L., — I should have written to you before, 
but have been prevented by several unforeseen circum- 
stances. I wrote a letter to your mother, dated the 
10th October, and the 13th, we left Paris for Italy. We 
went in a post-carriage to Chalons ; in posting you 
have your own carriage and take post-horses as you go 
along. Each post is about six miles, or a myriametre 
in technical language. At Chalons, we took the steam- 
boat and went down to Lyons, where we arrived the 
17th of October. We staid one day at Lyons to 
recruit, for, somehow, we were beat out with our jour- 
ney, though we had beerT only travelling five days. On 
Monday, the 19th, we started in a nice steamboat for 
Avignon, on the river Rhone. The banks of this river 
are very pretty, with fine old castles on each side. All 
day in the steamboat C. was quite sick, and when we 
stopped at night at a little village to sleep, she was in 
a burning fever. We M^ere called up next morning 
before four and reembarked in the boat to go to Avig- 
non, which place we reached about nine o'clock. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 107 

" Here we were detained ten days by C.'s having the 
varioloid ; we had a very good doctor, who gave her no 
medicine, but let the disease take its com-se. The rest 
of us explored the city and the environs, while we were 
waiting, and papa and I conscientiously hunted up 
every memorial relating to Petrarch and Laura. We 
also went to Vaucluse, the country-seat of Petrarch, 
which is a lovely place. It is a green valley, inclosed 
on every side with majestic rocks, and the Sorgue, a 
sweet little stream, winding through it. We visited 
Petrarch's fountain. ... I would not have missed my 
visit to Vaucluse for any thing. 

" At last, just as we were ready to leave Avignon for 
Marseilles, there came a tremendous storm of rain, and 
the Rhone overflowed its banks, so that a great part of 
the city was laid under water. People had to go about 
in boats. Boats would come under the window of a 
house, and baskets of provision be handed in ; and 
many were the tumbles from horseback in the streets. 
There was great doubt whether we should be able to 
get to the carriage, which was just outside the city 
walls, but finally it was decided that we could go in a 
boat to the place. So the boat came up to the stairs in 
the court-yard of the hotel which was also flooded, and 
we all got in and rowed off". We went round the walls 
in the very promenade where a week before we had 
walked ; it was now five feet deep in water ; how^ever, 
it was a beautiful afternoon, and we enjoyed our sail 
very much. It was half past five when we entered the 
carriage, and we arrived at Marseilles about nine in the 
morning and staid there that day and part of the next. 
Some friends of Mr. S. B., to whom he gave papa a 
letter, were very kind, and showed us round the city. 
The 1st of November, we embarked for Leghorn on 



108 MEMOIR OF 

board a French government steamer, called the Eurotas. 
We went along pretty well the first night, but the next 
day a part of the machinery got out of order, and we 
lost six or seven hours ; the wind, too, was dead ahead, 
and the sea was very high, so we went but slowly. 
Most of the passengers were very sick, there was so 
much motion, but E., C, and I escaped. We felt, to be 
sure, rather uncomfortable the second day, when the 
motion was excessive, and you could hardly keep your 
footing. Our voyage, which ought to have taken thirty- 
six hours, took us sixty, and finally, we landed in Leg- 
horn, all of us thoroughly tired and worn out, and some 
of us almost ill. 

" We staid one day at Leghorn to rest a little, and 
then started for Florence in a big carriage. We started 
early, and passed through Pisa on our way ; there we 
saw the leaning tower, with which T was not at all dis- 
appointed ; it does lean very much. Also we saw the 
Campo Santo, the earth of which is six feet deep, and 
was brought from Palestine. I was quite unwell going 
to Florence, and after we arrived there I also had the 
varioloid, and have but just recovered. The streets of 
Florence are so narrow, and there is so much danger of 
being run over, that you cannot walk here with much 
comfort ;' so every day we drive round." .... 

Of Vaucluse she wrote still further in her jour- 
nal: — - 

" 28th October. — Papa went to-day to the library 
during a gleam of sunshine, and as he has said, that 
while we are at Avignon, he must devote himself to 
Petrarch, he hunted in an old book, and found out what 
the poet said of Vaucluse, or Valchiusa as I shall call 
it, which is much the prettier name. He found it in a 



ANNE GOKHAM EVERETT. 109 

Latin letter of Petrarch to posterity. It is as follows ; 
he had just returned from Paris, and says : ' Inde etiam 
reversus, cum omnium sed imprimis illius tediosissimse 
urbis, (Avenionis,) fastidium et odium naturaliter 
animo meo insitum ferre non possum, diverticulum 
aliquod, quasi portum quserens, reperi vallem perexi- 
guam, sed solitariam atque amoenam, quse clausa, 
dicitur, quindecim passuum millibus ab Avenione dis- 
tantem, ubi fontium Rex omnium Sorga oritur. Cap- 
tus loci dulcedine, libellos meos et meipsum illuc 
transtuli.' Sweet Vauclusel I do not wonder that 
Petrarch loved it so." 

Of Pisa she says : " Pisa is a quiet, comfortable look- 
ing place. The river Arno flows through it. We 
stopped here one or two hours to see the curiosities,, 
among which, of course, is the Leaning Tower. I 
was not disappointed in seeing this tower; it leaned 
quite as much as I expected, but was not quite so high 
as I thought it. Each of the stories leans less and less, 
and the upper one hardly inclines at all. I think there 
can be no doubt it was originally built so. We also, 
went into the old Cathedral, which is by the side of the 
tower, and which is a fine old building. The bronze 
doors are very ancient, and exquisitely sculptured. I 
forgot to mention that the leaning tower was erected in 
1174 ; and that it inclines seven feet inside and thirteen 
out. 

" We then walked along the Campo Santo, around 
which is a long gallery containing many monuments, 
and some fresco paintings of Giotto. In the centre of 
the place is some soil, six feet deep, which was brought 
from the Holy Land. There was some beautiful 
statuary of Thorwaldsen's in this gallery." 

" 7th November. Florence. — We are at last arrive d 
10 



110 MEMOIR OF 

here after a hazardous and adventurous journey. We 
left Em poll this morning about half past eight, and had 
five hours' drive to get to Florence. I was no better 
this morning when I arose, and the ride was excessively 
fatiguing to me. I was almost worn out when we 
arrived. The environs of the city are beautiful, and 
everywhere we saw the young women braiding the 
straw for the Florence bonnets. We drove to an 
apartment which Mr. Greenough, one of papa's friends, 
had engaged for us. It appears to be a very good 
apartment, but I could not see much of it, for I felt so 
ill, that I was obliged to go to bed. So it seems I 
must take my turn of being sick." 

For the first time she was too ill to write in her jour- 
nal, but at the end of a week, upon her recovery, she 
filled up each day in its order, giving the events of her 
sick-room, the progress of her disease, etc. The 14th 
she says : " One cannot complain of this disease as 
very long, but it is very uncomfortable." Happily, it 
assumed a very light form, and only two or three unob- 
servable marks were left of it. 

The best idea of their residence in Florence, will be 
obtained from the following extracts from Anne's letters 
to friends in Boston: — 

" 1st December. — But I must tell you something 
about Florence. Our apartment is very pleasant. It 
is very large, consisting of fourteen or fifteen rooms, 
and attached to the house is a fine large garden, where 
I walk a great while every day. This garden looks as 
ours do, in the early part of September; there are 
beautiful monthly roses, crysanthemums, and other 
beautiful flowers blooming ; and oranges and lemons 
ripening in the open air. There is an orange tree with 
one large orange nearly ripe, on the wall of E. W.'s 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. Ill 

house. He occupies a small apartment, of five or six 
rooms in the garden, and he declares that when it is 
ripe he will put his hand out of his window and pick 
it. I tell him our landlady would not like that, for she 
is very precise and particular. 

" Our landlady has a niece, a very pleasing young 
lady, whom we visit. She is the daughter of a Swedish 
nobleman, and of course spealvs that language. Be- 
sides that, she speaks French as well as a native, 
Italian, Spanish, English perfectly well, and Arabic ; 
having passed some years in the Barbary States when 
a child. She is, moreover, very accomplished, and a 
very agreeable young lady." 

" 1st February. — Perhaps you may like to hear what 
we are doing here, how we live, and ' all that sort of 
thing.' We have an apartment, as it is called, which 
consists of fourteen or fifteen rooms in a large palace, 
in which four or five other families live, two of whom 
we visit. Our rooms are very convenient, and are com- 
fortably furnished. In the morning we sit in a nice 
little parlor, and study our lessons, and take a lesson 
from our Italian teacher. In another place I shall say 
a word about the Italian. We take luncheon at one, 
and after luncheon, if we have any shopping, or 
morning visiting to do, we drive out ; but ceremonious 
visits are here made in the evening. Each family ap- 
points such an evening to be at home, and then about 
nine o'clock you have the table set, and the tea things 
brought in and make tea for the guests. That is aU 
you give them, except cake. We receive, every Satm-- 
day evening, our landlady, INIadame de L. every San- 
day evening, and an English family, whom we visit in 
this house, on Wednesday evenings. So on Saturday 
evenings you may imagine us seeing company; last 



112 MEMOIR OP 

Saturday evening mamma was not well enough to 
come in, so I had to pour out the tea, w^hich was no 
small job, as we had a good many that evening. We 
do not yet, however, go much into society, for in fact 
there is not much here, and then we are strangers, and 
do not know everybody. We are going, in a day or 
two, to a court ball ; mamma and I for the first time ; 
papa has been once before. I am very anxious to go, 
for I want to see the grand duke, he is, I am told, a 
pleasant, agreeable man ; though I suppose I shall not 
say much to him, or he to me. He w^ill only ask me a 
few commonplace questions in French." 

[To Hon. P. C. Brooks.] 

"Florence, 1st March, 1841. 

" Dear Grandpapa, — Papa received a letter from 
you the other day, the 26th February, in which you re- 
quested we would write to you. I have not written to 
you before, because I did not think my letters were 
worth sending by steamship by the way of England, 
and it takes so long for them to go from Leghorn. 

" We are now quite accustomed to Florence and feel 
at home here, though I cannot say we speak the lan- 
guage like natives. It is only papa that can speak it 
with any fluency ; I find it much more difficult to learn 
than I did French, probably because I had more knowl- 
edge of French when I came to Europe. 

" We see a great many Americans here, and some 
English, much more than we do Italians, for the latter 
are not sociable like the French, but shut themselves up 
in their great palaces, and only appear on Sundays 
when they drive out in their carriages to the Cascine, 
and in the evening to the Opera. The people here 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 113 

think nothing of going to a ball or the Opera 
Sunday evenings, and some of the best shows and en- 
tertainments are on that day. However, the Italians 
shut up their stores on Sunday and go to church in the 
morning. The grand duke has been very kind to us, 
and he gives very pleasant parties. His balls are in 
Carnival, but in Lent he also gives parties without 
dancing, and concerts. 

" You mentioned in your letter that nobody had 
described our house to you. It is only an apartment in 
a large palace ; the palace is called Casa Lagers ward, 
from the name of the lady who owns it. Our apart- 
ment consists of about fourteen rooms. The drawing- 
room, mamma's and our chamber, the nursery and little 
parlor, as we call it, all have a southern aspect, and in 
these warm days we do not need a fire all day ; the 
dining-room, papa's study, and E.'s chamber have a 
northern aspect, which is the right one for summer. We 
find the rooms here very agreeable and comfortable, and 
not having to go up stairs, but only from one room into 
another, is very pleasant. Then we have a fine large 
garden, full of ti*ees and flowers, where we walk a great 
deal ; we have a whole greenhouse full of lemon trees ; 
the lemons are now nearly ripe, the weeping willows are 
all out, and also the lilac bushes, and our garden really 
looks like spring ; there is a bed of sweet-scented vio- 
lets that we take great pleasure in. 

" The church we attend is a French Protestant 
church, very lil^e the one we went to in Paris. The 
preaching in the Catholic churches begins in Lent, and 
yesterday we thought we would step into the Church 
of Santa Croce and hear the preacher. So papa, C, 
and I went in. The preacher was in a pulpit in the 
middle of the chm-ch, and a great crowd round him, 

10* 



114 MEMOIR OF 

but we could not get in front of him. The sermon was 
in Italian, and as he was very hoarse, I did not under- 
stand above one word in ten, so that sermon did not do 
me much good. The only part I understood was about 
giving alms to the poor, and when the box came round, 
we each of us put in something. In this church are 
the monuments of Dante, Michelangelo, Alfieri, and 
some others, and the tomb of Galileo. One of the 
prettiest things in these great churches are the splendid 
glass windows, painted in such brilliant colors ; and I 
have heard it said, that these colors go entirely through 
the glass, instead of being merely on the outside. The 
Cathedral is another noble church, but the windows are 
not so fine. On Christmas-day we went round to a 
good many churches, to see the service in them, but 
there is only one service in the churches here, in the 
morning, so that we cannot go in the afternoon. 

" I hope you will be pleased with the pictures papa 
has sent you, for we all think they are very beautiful. 
I do not see but what those which are copies are almost 
as good as the originals, and some are originals them- 
selves. The beautiful statuary here I am most struck 
^th ; the statue of Washington, by Mr. Greenough, is 
very grand, and is soon to go to America. Mr. G. has 
also a very fine head of Franklin, and a group he is 
making for the Capitol is also very pleasing, though it 
is yet only in plaster. Mr. Powers has also some beau- 
tiful statuary ; his Ginevra is one of the finest things 
I ever saw, and his statue of Eve will be superb when 
it is done ; he has not quite finished modelling it in 
clay. We do not go a great deal to the galleries of 
sculpture and pictures now, because they are so very 
cold, having stone floors, but when it is a little warmer 
we mean to go oftener 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 115 

" I am learning to draw, and next summer I think of 
learning to paint in oils. 

" I must now bid you good-by, dear grandpapa. 
'• Your affectionate granddaughter, 

" Anne G. Everett." 



CHAPTER IX 

New ENGLAND HABITS IN FLOKENCE — CORRESPONDENCE. 



Moment by moment swiftly flies, 
Whilst thou, with ever earnest eyes, 
Sendest each laden to the skies ! 



It was in the autumn of her eighteenth year, that 
Anne became a resident of Florence ; here she passed 
seven months, and, as she writes to her friend, " is quite 
a Florentine ; " yet, not " quite," in a most essential fea- 
ture ; she has not learned to love the dolce far niente of 
the Italian. Her character is formed. Henceforth, it is 
not in the power of balmy airs, or beauty beaming in 
nature or in art, to woo her to forgetfulness of duty. 
One paragraph from her journal will show to the close 
observer that it was not insensibility, but firm principle, 
which enabled her to pursue, undeviatingly, the system 
of steady application, which she had marked out for 
herself in her earliest years. 

" 25th January, 1840. — After the morning lessons 
were over, we went out about half past twelve and 
found the weather delightful. The tramontana, (a high, 
cold wii^d from the mountains,) had entirely disap- 
peared and the air was soft and mild. We staid abroad 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 117 

till about one, and then came in. After luncheon, 1 
thought a little of ivalking in the garden again, but I had 
so much to do, that I concluded not to go. I read my 
German, and then wrote my Italian, after which, I read 
to myself. After dinner, I did some work," etc. It is 
not too much praise to ascribe to the spirit manifested 
in the simple record, more of might, than to him " that 
taketh a city ; " and nothing so strikingly indicates the 
stability of her principles and the almost miraculous 
activity of her mind, as her conformity to her New 
England habits under circumstances so inviting to 
self-indulgence. 

Indeed, the order of her life has undergone so little 
change, that many portions of her journal, of which a 
few will be given here, might stand parallel with some 
\\Titten in her home in Charlestown, and the difference 
hardly be perceived. 

•' 28th December. — We began with our lessons and 
teachers again to-day, and after the drawing master had 
gone, I took a walk in the garden, as it was so pleasant. 
When I came in I read for some time, and then did a 
little work. Our Italian teacher came later to-day, and 
therefore, we took luncheon later. After luncheon, 
papa and I went out to take a walk, and walked around 
the walls, in a place where we had not walked before ; 
we discovered, also, an inscription, at least five hundred 
years old." 

" 19th January. — After reading my Latin and draw- 
ing for some time, I went down into the garden and 
drove hoop for about half an hour. It was pretty 
damp, owing to its having rained this morning. When 
I came in, I read till luncheon, after which, C. and I 
went directly out in the carriage to do an errand ; and 



118 MEMOIR OP 

when we returned, she and mamma went out and made 
one or two visits. In the evening I did one or two 
sums, and also read aloud a good deal." 

" 20th. — After our teachers were gone this morning, 

we went out into the garden as usual After 

luncheon, I read my German and wrote my Italian, 
and then did some work. Before dinner, I read to papa, 
and after dinner, Edward W. and I did some hard 
sums." 

" 21st. — There was a very strong tramontana to-day, 
which papa said was called the black tramontana ; 
there are different degrees of tramontanas, and this was 
a very severe one. However, we were able to ' pursue 
the rolling circle's speed,' and though it was very cold, 
when we came up, we felt quite warm. I did not drive 
out to-day ; papa and C. drove out a little while. I 
had time to read and sew a good deal, and after dinner, 
we got out the sums. I did two or three, or rather had 
them explained to me ; but they were pretty difficult." 

She retains her love for early hours, and writes, 

" Saturday, 16th January. — In the evening, we had 
some company. It is necessary to name one evening 
here when you will receive people, otherwise you would 
lose half your sleep ; for they make such long visits 
that you cannot go to bed very early ; and as we get 
up early, we need to go to bed earlier." In another 
place she says, " we begin to know those that stay late, 
and dread their coming." 

Another time, after sitting up late the evening before, 
she says, " I waked at my usual time this morning, (six 
o'clock,) but I felt pretty sleepy, and would gladly have 
slept longer, but I got up, and did my lessons as 
usual." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 119 

Anne was not at this time without amusements. To 
play hoop with her brothers in the garden was her chief 
resource for much healthful, merry exercise. In the 
evening innocent games frequently interrupted her read- 
ing or severer study. She also saw much of. the gayeties 
of the city in her drives on the Cascine which her letters 
describe ; and several parties at the Grand Duke's 
Palace, gave her a view of the wealth and splendor of 
Florentine society. It should be remarked, however, 
that her journal is never occupied with these things. 
Her dress is never mentioned ; and when an evening 
entertainment is in store, no anticipation or preparation 
for it ever interrupts the regular routine of her studies 
and employments during the day. In letters to her 
family friends, she has, in some instances, described her 
dress, evidently, however, not to gratify her own vanity, 
but their very natural curiosity. 

Of her numerous interesting letters at this period, it 
is difficult to make a selection, but those are inserted, 
which, it is supposed, will give the clearest idea of her 
mode of life and som^e of the customs of the coun- 
try. 

[To O. B. F.] 

" Florence, 8tli December, 1840. 

" Dear Cousin O., — As mamma has a good many 
other letters to write, you must accept this from me. 
We received your letter, and that of your mother to 
me, on Thanksgiving-day, the 26th ult. We celebrated 
Thanksgiving-day as well as we could here, but our 
means for doing so were slender. We wanted to have 
a plum-pudding of course. Now, as it is rather diffi- 



120 MEMOIR OP 

cult to get an English dish well made, we never have 
sQch things. When I told our servant, (who speaks 
French,) that we wanted one, he looked rather sur- 
prised. I told him we must have it for our jour de fete ; 
for I could not express Thanksgiving in any other way. 
We thought what a pleasant family meeting you would 
have at grandpapa's, and when we sat down to dinner 
at five o'clock, we said, ' Now they are just going to 
church.' Alas ! we could not go to church. By the 
by, we go every Sunday morning to a French Prot- 
estant church. The service is very similar to what 
we had in Paris, and we have pretty good sermons. 
But I really think I should like to hear an English ser- 
mon once more ; I have not heard one since I left 
America, more than six months ago. And I do not 
suppose I shall till we go to England ; for when we are 
where we can have both a French and English service 
we choose the former in preference. 

" We do not have much chance here to speak French, 
but I speak it when I can, that I may not get out of 
practice ; for whatever country you go to, if people can- 
not speak your language, they generally speak French. 
Italian I can now speak a little; enough to understand 
and make myself understood. We have an Italian 
teacher three times a week, C. has a music teacher 
every other day, and in a day or two, I am going to 
begin and take drawing lessons. Then I make a point 
of reading a good portion of Latin every day. I am 
glad to hear you have begun German ; I am sure you 
will like it, it is a language one grows very fond of 
Have you yet read any of Schiller's plays ? Pray read 
them as soon as possible, they are so interesting. As 
soon as I can get any German books, I mean to resume 
the study. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 121 

" This is a charming climate ; many trees are still 
covered with leaves, flowers bloom in our garden in 
great plenty, and in the open air, against the side of 
the house, are one or two orange trees, with beautiful 
fruit nearly ripe. There are also an immense quantity 
of lemon trees, not exactly in the open air, but covered 
in part. You stand in this pretty, blooming garden and 
look over to the Apennines, whose tops are covered 
with snow ; it is a beautiful sight. Papa and I stopped 
in the street to-day, to admire a distant mountain cap- 
ped with snow. 

" The river Arno runs through Florence, dividing it 
into two parts, as the Seine does Paris. The street on 
the bank of the Arno is called the * Lungo I'Arno,' and 
is always warm and sunny when it is cold elsewhere ; 
it is a very pleasant walk. But walking here is not 
much in vogue, as the streets are narrow, and there are 
no sidewalks. People drive about a great deal in their 
carriages, and of course we must imitate their example. 

" We have been to see some of the galleries of pic- 
tures and statuary. The pictures are beautiful. We 
saw a good many of Raphael, Titian, and the other 
great masters. I could have staid looking at them I 
know not how long ; there was such grace of form, and 
sweetness of expression about them. 

" We take regularly an English journal, published in 
Paris. It reaches us a week after it is published, and 
we get the English news only nine days old. A day or 
two ago we saw the arrival of the steamship President,, 
which brought news of the happy issue of the presi- 
dential election. 

"The hours here are very convenient; by that I 
mean, the way of dividing the time. We get up about 
seven, breakfast at half past eight, and devote the 

11 



122 MEMOIE OF 

morning, till one, to our studies, sewing, etc. Nobody 
here thinks of calling till after two. At one, we take 
luncheon, and after that we generally drive out ; if we 
stay at home we sometimes have callers. At half past 
fiYe we dine, and dinner is our last meal in the day. 
In the evening we are very apt to have callers, when 
we do not make visits ourselves, for evening is the prin- 
cipal time for calling. We go to bed pretty early 
though, following om' home hours in that respect. 
Papa has been presented to the Grand Duke, and is to 
dine with him to-morrow. I believe I have told you all 
the news. One thing, however, I did not mention. 
The streets here are very long ; numbered up to thou- 
sands. The number of our house is 7080 ; the street 

in which we live, is called Borgo la Croce 

" Yours, affectionately, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

[To P. C] 

"Florence, 6tli January, 1841. 

" Dearest P., — . . . . We have settled down into 
a very regular way of living here, and all my time is 
occupied. In the morning, after breakfast, which we 
have at half past eight, I study Latin for some time, 
then draw for an hour. I have a drawing master three 
times a week, and we have an Italian teacher every 
other day. After my drawing, I always walk in the 
garden, and drive hoop ; actually drive hoop^ for half an 
hour. We have a beautiful, blooming garden, filled 
with roses and other flowers. Before luncheon I read 
in English biography or history, and after luncheon, 
German. If we wish to go out shopping, the time to 
do it is between one and five. At half past five we 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 123 

dine. Evening is the principal time for making and 
receiving visits. 

********** 

" Florence is not a remarkably pretty city. There 
are many noble and ancient buildings in it, and grand 
palaces ; but most of the streets are dark and narrow. 
There are many superb galleries of pictm'es, where you 
see the charming originals of the copies we sometimes 
have in America. The pictures of Raphael and some 
other great masters, are beautiful beyond expression, 
and there is also a great deal of fine ancient statuary 
here. I must not omit to mention the American 
sculptors here, whose works I cannot praise better 
than by saying, they are exactly true to the life. We 
are acquainted with three of the American sculptors, 
and I really think some of their works are equal to the 
ancient ones.* 

" The climate of Florence is delightful. Even in 
cold days there is a mildness and softness in the air, 
that is so pleasant ! Many days in the month of 
December we sat without a fire, and with the windows 
open, and we never have much fire, only a few sticks of 
wood. The only thing I do not quite like in the 
climate, is the frequent rains and dampness, but after 
all, I do not mind them much. We have not seen any 
snow, except on the summits of the mountains, since 
we came here, though we have a little ice some- 
times." .... 



* Greenouo-h, Powers, and Clevenofer. 



124 MEMOIR OF 



[To T. B. R] 

" Florence, llth January, 1841. 

" Dbae Cousm T., — We received the packet of letters 
by Mr. Greenough, on the 7th of January, and. were 
delighted with them, I assure you. We were sitting 
very quietly at work, in the evening, after dinner, when 
a packet, sent to us by Mrs. G., was handed in. 
Mamma seized and opened it, and we all cried out 
when we saw the letters. If you ever travel far away, 
you will know how pleasant it is to get letters from 
home. We are so entirely separated from the rest of 
the family, that it makes us feel as if we were with 
them again, to get letters. However, we are not lonely 
here, but have quite enough to do. We have drawing, 
music, and Italian masters, and though I cannot say 
we speak Italian like natives, yet I understand all they 
say to me, and speak it a little 

" The Grand Duke and Grand Duchess give balls 
sometimes. There was a splendid one at the palace 
New- Year's evening, to which papa went. All the 
gentlemen were obliged to go in uniform, and papa said 
the costumes were very brilliant. There was a Greek 
gentleman there, also an Hungarian, both in their 
national costumes. There was no supper, but ices and 
lemonade were handed, and at the close of the evening 
tea and coffee. Papa has also dined with the Grand 
Duke, who has been very polite to him. Mamma and 
I mean to go to the next court ball, circumstances pre- 
venting us from going to the first. I am sure I do n't 
know when it will be, but I wish his Imperial and 
Royal Highness, that is the title of the duke, would 
decide to give another. The Grand Duchess, who is 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 125 

very young, is said to be fond of company and dancing, 
but as she is very modest and diffident, perhaps she 
does not like to have so many people presented to 
her. 

" We have here a public drive, called the Cascine, 
where the Royal family and all the fashionables go to 
drive, especially on Sunday. After driving for some 
time, the carriages stop or move at a walk, and the 
ladies and gentlemen get out and promenade on the 
banks of the river. If you go at the fashionable hour, 
you see some very handsome coaches, with rich coro- 
nets and hammercloths. The ducal carriages have six 
horses each with silver trappings. 

" We went the other night to see Mr. Greenough's 
statue of Washington in marble. It is to stand in the 
centre of the rotunda in the capitol at Washington; 
you know what a grand place it is for a statue. Wash- 
ington, of colossal size, is represented as sitting with a 
drapery gracefully thrown over him. One hand is 
raised to heaven, the other extended, holding a sword. 
The chair is beautifully sculptured, and the back of it 
particularly, has very rich bas reliefs. At one corner of 
the back of the chair is Columbus, holding a globe in 
his hand ; at the other, an Indian, leaning on his toma- 
hawk. The statue is going to America in the spring, 
to be put up in the capitol. It would really be worth 
making a journey to Washington to see it^ Mr. G. has 
also a group for the capitol, consisting of an early settler 
who surprises an Indian in the act of slaying his wife 
and child. The expression of the faces is very fine. 
This is yet only in plaster." .... 
11* 



126 MEMOIR OF 



[To A. V. E.] 

" Florence, 23d February, 1841. 

" My dear a., — I should have written to you before, 
but we do not have very good chances to send letters, 
as ships go very seldom from Leghorn to Boston, and 
it seems too expensive to send them by the steamships. 
I assure you I sympathized with you last winter, when 
I heard of the sorrow you had ; I never shall forget you 
or any one at home. 

" I am delighted with Florence, particularly with the 
climate. On the 18th, 19th, and 20th of February, we 
sat all day with our windows open, and no fire, and 
when we walked in the garden it was necessary to keep 
in the shade, otherwise the sun was overpowering. 
The lilac bushes are nearly out, and the willow trees 
are very green. It is really such weather as we have at 
home the last days of May. 

" It is now the time of the Carnival, which this year 
lasts till the 24th of February, and all Florence is very 
gay. There are splendid balls given almost every even- 
ing, a very fine Opera, the Corso, which I will describe 
to you presently, and the streets filled with masks. A 
great many people put on masks and dominos, and go 
parading round, and sometimes they will seize hold of 
quiet people walking in the streets, and shake them. 
The other day, we all walked out to see the masks, and 
as we went along a mask seized C. and gave her a 
shake. It is very amusing to see these frightful faces 
going round, sometimes seven or eight walking to- 
gether. 

" Now I will tell you about the Corso. It is neither 
more nor less than a drive. The last few days of the 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 127 

Carnival, all the equipages, or the greater part, in town, 
go and drive in a sort of procession through certain 
streets and public squares. Great splendor is displayed 
on these occasions. The Grand Duke has three equi- 
pages, with six horses each, and very rich liveries and 
trappings. He drives with all his family on the Corso, 
and holds his baby in his lap. Everybody bows to him 
as he passes, and he in return makes very polite bows. 
The Neapolitan ambassador has six splendid gi'ay 
horses, with three footmen behind, and a hammercloth 
of rich brown velvet. The Russian Prince Poniatowski 
has two carriages, one with six and the other with four 
gray horses, and equally rich liveries. The whole scene 
is very pretty and animated. I have been to three or four 
splendid balls, two of them at the Grand Duke's palace. 
The rooms are splendidly lighted with pyramids of can- 
dles, and the display of jewels, particularly of diamonds, 
was superb. The Grand Duchess had on one night, a 
band of diamonds round her head, a necklace and 
bracelets of the same, and in her braid behind she had 
a great star of diamonds ; also, a similar star on her 
waist. Another lady had a coronet of diamonds stand- 
ing off from her head. The breast of a third was en- 
tirely studded with them, and she had a necklace of 
emeralds and diamonds. I saw one lady whose whole 
dress was trimmed up the front with diamonds, and she 
had sprays of them mixed in with feathers in her hair. 
I am afraid you will be almost tired with the word 
diamond^ but it may serve to give you some idea of the 
splendor of the balls here. We do not go to these 
great balls till ten, and vje^ that is, our family, generally 
come home at one, but the greater part of the company 
stay till four. At one ball we went to, the entrance to 
the reception room was lined with camelias, orange 



128 MEMOIR OF 

and lemon trees, etc., and every lady on entering, had a 
bouquet given to her. We have also been once or 
twice to the Opera, and that is a most charming enter- 
tainment. It is not so exciting as a ball, but it is so 
sweet ; I cannot think of any other word to describe it. 
There was one passage in the Opera the other night, 
that called down such enthusiastic applause, that the 
man who sang it had to come back three times upon 
the stage and bow to the audience ; and he did sing so 
beautifully, it set C. and me perfectly beside ourselves, 
and the next day we did nothing but repeat this passage 
to ourselves. 

" I am taking drawing lessons, you may tell L. H., 
and am soon going to learn to paint in oils ; tell her I 
hope she keeps up her drawing. Pray tell her, for I 
shall not be able to write to her this time, that I am 
sorry I cannot send her a piece of my court dress for a 
pincushion as I promised, for every scrap was used up ; 
there was not a bit left." 

[To her Aunt F.] 

"Florence, 24tli February, 1841. 

" . . . . Just now we are having charming weather ; 
no need of fires I Dear me I while you probably have 
your furnace full of coal, we sit at our open windows 
in the Borgo la Croce, and look out on our pretty gar- 
den and the fine old convent of St. Miniato. All 
Florence is now very gay. Such splendid balls and 
Corsos as we have ! The Carnival is now just ending, 
and the gayety has been well kept up ; the masks have 
performed their part with great spirit, but I have seen 
so many instances of their rudeness that I do not like 
them much. Everybody, (that is, ' everybody that is 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 129 

anybody,' ) drives to the Corso, and the equipages and 
liveries are so brilliant. The Grand Duke came out 
with new liveries and hammercloths when the Corso 
began, and everybody else appeared in their gayest 
attire. The Grand Duke generally drives in a close 
carriage with his wife, and his baby in his lap ; but the 
last two times he has driven in an open carriage with 
his youngest daughter, the Archduchess Augusta. The 
oldest Archduchess is very ill, and never appears in the 
world. The Corso is very long, reaching from the 
Piazza Santa Croce to the Piazza S. Maria Novella, so 
we have a fine chance to see the equipages, and we pass 
every one twice. 

" The balls also are very grand. I have been to 
several, two of them at the Pitti palace. There have 
been a great many balls at court, and ever since papa 
was presented to the duke, we have been asked to all 
of them. The night I was presented, there were a 
great many to be presented, a hundred I believe, princi- 
pally Russians and English. The room was very bril- 
liantly lighted, and the diamonds were superb. The 
two Grand Duchesses and the Archduchess wear very 
rich diamonds, and the Russian ladies have them very 
beautiful. 1 think the Grand Duke has a very amiable 
expression of face, and is a very pleasant man, and the 
Grand Duchess a very pretty woman. 

" The next great ball w^e went to was given by the 
Marchioness of Ulugares. But this ball was eclipsed 
by the one given by the Prince and Princess Corsini, 
Avhich we also attended. They have not given one be- 
fore, since the Grand Duke's second marriage, and it 
was a grand affair. The train of carriages reached on 
one side from the Via Legnajuolo along the Lungo 
I'Arno to the palace, and on the other side was also 



130 MEMOIR OF 

very long. The crowd was immense ; it was with diffi- 
culty we could walk around the rooms without being 
crushed, and owing to the crowd we did not see the 
beautiful pictures as well as we otherwise should have 
done. I took care, however, to look at the Poesia of 
Carlo Dolce, of Avhich papa has sent a very fine old 

copy to grandpapa 

" We go often to the Cascine. There are, you know, 
a great many pheasants there, and the other day, the 
Grand Duke sent us a pair. He has been very kind to 
us ever since we have been here. The Italian comes on 
pretty well, though not so fast as the French ; for every- 
body here speaks French or English, and even two of 
our servants speak French, so we do not have much 
chance to speak Italian." 

[To her Aunt H.] 

" Florence, 29th March, 184L 

" . . . . The Grand Duke has given two concerts 
since Lent began, to both of which we were all invited ; 
one of them I went to. All the gentlemen must go in 
uniform of some sort, and some of the uniforms are 
very handsome. The Austrian uniform, which the 
Grand Duke wears, consists of red pantaloons and 
white coat lined with red ; the English uniform is a red 
coat, with epaulettes, and blue pantaloons, with red 
cloth up the seams. As we Americans have no national 
costume, papa wore his French court dress ; blue coat, 
embroidered with gold, white pantaloons, with gold 
lace, sword, and chapeau bras. There was a Greek 
gentleman there in his national di'ess, which consisted 
of a sort of crimson velvet coat, with the sleeves very 
loose at the end, richly embroidered in gold, and red 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 131 

velvet pantaloons coming from under a short, stiff, white 
petticoat ; a small shirt collar, turned over as little boys 
wear them. This Greek speaks English remarkably- 
well, and is a very pleasant man. 

" If you are not tired of hearing of the dresses, I will 
tell you a little about the ladies' dresses. The Grand 
Duchess had a light satin, with four or five flounces of 
Brussels point lace, which costs about sixty dollars a 
yard. In her hair were sprays and aigrettes of dia- 
monds and pearls. Another lady, over a satin dress, 
had a real point lace dress ; at least it appeared to be 
real, for, as she was a lady of the court, one would not 
suspect her of wearing any thing false. We had the 
best singers in Italy at the concert, and I had a very 
pleasant time 

" There was a grand fete the other day, the fete of the 
Holy Virgin, and there was a celebration of it in the 
Church of the Santissima Annunciata, which is a very 
handsome church. We went to see the ceremony. 
The Grand Duke and his court were there, and the 
aisle up which they went was lined with soldiers. First 
came some chamberlains, then the Grand Duke between 
two guards, and then the Grand Duchess, also between 
two guards. She was followed by the Dowager Grand 
Duchess and the Archduchess Louisa. When the court 
had passed up, the mass began, and the music was very 
fine. The ladies of the court were in ball-dresses and 
diamonds, and the duke and the gentlemen in uniform. 
When the host was lifted up, all the soldiers fell on 
their knees, and such a clattering as their weapons 
made I 

" My speaking Italian does not come on as well as it 
ought to ; for really everybody speaks French or Eng- 
lish, and I have hardly any chance to speak Italian. I 



132 MEMOIR OF 

have, however, learnt to shop in Italian, and to beat the 
people down, too ; for here, as well as in Paris, you 
must not give them the prices they ask. The thing I 
find most difficulty in buying here is a good pair of 
gloves. They have French gloves, which are almost 
the only wearable ones, but they are so large! they 
hang on your arms. The French women, in fact, have 
large hands, and I suppose they send an inferior kind 
of gloves to Florence ; I know they do to America. I 
was astonished to see the difference between the gloves 
they wear in Paris, and those we think so pretty in 
Boston 

" I have lately been translating some pretty little 
stories from Italian, and if I get them done in time, I 
will send them to you, as perhaps you may like to see 
them. One of them was previously translated into 
Italian from the German. 

" I hear there is to be war. I hope if is not true, 
for 1 am scarcely ready to come home from Europe 
yet 

" P. S. — I send you the feather of a pheasant which 
the Grand Duke sent us last winter. Sasy may put it 
in her doll's bonnet, if she likes." 

[To J. H.] 

" Flokence, 7tli April, 1841. 

" .... I shall send this letter by Mr. Edward Web- 
ster, who, after having lived with us last winter, is now 
returning home. The letter will be very old when you 
get it, as he stops on his way at Paris, but if you feel 
as we do when we get letters you wiU not mind its 
being a little old 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 133 

" The display of diamonds at the balls has been truly 
magnificent. I have seen the Grand Duchess wear 
diamonds alone, diamonds and pearls, diamonds and 
sapphires, diamonds and rubies ; and a friend of mine 
saw her with emeralds and diamonds. All the ladies 
of the court, and also the Russian ladies, dress very 
splendidly ; some of them in Brussels lace, which costs 
sixty dollars a yard. It is of no use to try to wear any 
jewels, and any thing handsome ; you are downright 
eclipsed ; the only way is to dress as plainly and simply 
as possible. A gi-eat many people wear Roman pearls,, 
and imitation lace, but they are almost always detected. 
The Grand Duchess and the Archduchess dress very 
elegantly, and a friend of mine who has lived here a 
good many years, and goes frequently to court, told me 
that they never wear a ball dress twice 

" It is now Holy week, and there are a great many 
religious ceremonies. Among others, the Grand Duke 
washes the feet of six old men, and the Grand Duchess 
of six old women, to commemorate the washing of the 
disciples' feet. They say, that these old people are well 
scrubbed before their highnesses touch them. To-mor- 
row we are going to see the ceremony, and I may be 
able to write you an account of it." 

" Thursday, 8th. — Well, I have been to see this 
grand ceremony. We were obliged to go to the palace 
at half past nine, in order to get good places ; and, upon 
entering the grand hall, we saw two long tables spreadi 
with food for the old people. Then we went to a raised 
platform at one side of the room, where we had to stand, 
there being no place to sit. The room kept filling, and 
pretty soon the old people were brought in, twelve old 
men, (not six,) and twelve old women. One of the 
old women was so infirm, that an officer had to carry 

12 



134 MEMOIR OF 

her in his arras. The eldest of them was ninety-seven 
and none younger than eighty. When all was ready, a 
little before eleven, their Imperial Highnesses entered, 
and soon after, the officers and ladies of the court began 
to distribute the food. I saw the Grand Duchess hand a 
plate to an old woman. Then an officer came up, and 
attended the Duchess down the line of the w^omen, and 
she stooped down, and bathed the feet of each ; very 
slightly, for it did not take her half a minute to each. 
The Duke did the same to the old men. The Grand 
Duchess was dressed in black velvet, with a blonde veil 
over her head, and she looked as pretty, dressed thus 
simply, as in a ball dress, which is what cannot be said 
of everybody. The Grand Duke wore his Austrian 
uniform, and the little Ducal children stood in another 
room, and looked through a window to see what their 
parents were doing. After the ceremony was over, the 
royal family left the hall, and so did we. The poor 
people, whose feet are washed, have a supply of food 

given them to carry home, and some money 

" 1 could say a great deal more if 1 had time, but my 
letter must be done. Pray write to me whenever you 
get a chance, and give me all the news, domestic, fash- 
ionable, and political." 

[To her aunt, Mrs. G. B.] 

"Florence, IGtliMay, 1841. 

" . . ► . I think when you were in Europe, you did 
not go to Italy. If so, you lost a great deal, for Flor- 
ence and its environs are charming. Our summer 
is now in its full beauty and glory ; the garden is full 
of roses, larkspur, etc., and we have had strawberries, 
cherries, and new potatoes for some time, and as for 



ANNE GORnAM EVERETT. 135 

green peas, they are an old story now. Apricots and 
fresh figs, they tell me cotne in June, and peaches and 
plums in July and August. But then, to compensate 
for this, we have very warm weather. Some days in 
the latter end of April were as warm as our July 
weather; we have had one thunderstorm since we 
came here, the first we have had for a year and a half, 
for we had none last summer in Paris. 

" I think I have pretty well discussed the climate, 
and will now tell you some of the things they do here. 
Some of the ceremonies of Holy week or Easter week, 
were very curious. One day we went to see a dove 
fly from the Cathedral ; this dove is let off from the 
high altar, and flies out in a blaze of fire till it reaches 
a little tower full of fireworks, which stands at no great 
distance in the square ; and then flies back again ; then 
the fireworks burst out from the tower. The dove 
appears to have two squibs or crackers ; one in his 
head, and the other in his tail, one of which bursting, 
propels him forward, and the other back again ; but I 
dare say the people think it comes from heaven, for 
they attach very superstitious ideas to it. If it does 
not go straight, the people think they shall not have a 
good harvest ; so when the French had the upper hand 
here, they sent for the priests, who make the bird go, 
and told them if it did not go straight, they should 
have their heads cut off". The birds went very straight, 
during the dominion of the French. The Florentines 
are obliged to do this every year, having had a legacy 
left to them for that purpose, and if they do not, they 
forfeit a great many estates left to them by the same 
person. 

" We witnessed another curious scene the other 
day — the drawing of the lottery ; this is somewhat 



136 MEMOIR OF 

different from what it is in America. The numbers 
from one to ninety are put into a hollow wheel, and 
afterwards, five of them drawn out. On three of these, 
it is allowed to bet. These numbers were passed round 
a table, at which sat the officials, and after being 
exhibited, were put into the wheel, by a little page 
dressed in red. When they were all in, another little 
page was blindfolded very closely, and put his hand in, 
and drew forth five numbers ; these were 25, 56, 13, 48, 
and 80. Anybody that had bet on any three of these five 
numbers would get a good deal of money. If one 
number yon bet on comes up, you are paid something ; 
if you have two, a hundred times your bet, and if three, 
several thousand times as much. If none come up on 
which you have bet, of course you lose your money. 
But as the three numbers, or even two numbers bet on, 
very rarely come up, the government gains a great deal. 
It is said there was once a man who dreamed he bet on 
three numbers, and that they all came up ; so he went 
and bet on them, and they did come up ; and he gained, 
I think, forty thousand dollars. But the directors of the 
lottery said there was fraud in it and refused to pay 
him ; upon which, he went to law, and after long delay, 
gained his cause and his money. This lottery is very 
pernicious, for you can bet as low a sum as you please, 
and the poorest people do bet. It has lately been 
abolished by the King of the French in his dominions, 
and also in every other country of Europe, but Italy. 

" The old churches here are very interesting. In the 
churches of San Lorenzo are several works of Michel- 
angelo, and at the back of this church, is the chapel of 
the Medici, which is truly superb. The walls are 
entirely composed of pietra dura, or Florentine mosaic. 
The ceiling is richly painted and gilded, and the stones 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 137 

or marbles on the walls have the effect of a mirror; if 
you look into them, you see a reflection of the church 
and chapel. It is a hundred ells high ; an ell is about 
two feet The high altar is to be made of pietra dura, 
and also the floor of the chapel. It will be an immense 
work, and when they will get it done, I don't know. 
They are working very diligently on it ; that is, dili- 
gently for the Florentines, for they are the laziest people 
I ever knew, and I am told that the Romans and Nea- 
politans are still more so. 

" The Italian comes on very well, C, E., and I can 
speak it now without any difficulty, and we are so used 
to hear that or French in the shops, that when I hear 
English spoken in them, it sounds rather strange to me. 
When I talk to foreigners in English, I insensibly give 
my English a slight foreign accent. My drawing 
improves, and I have taken a very pretty view near 
here, which I wish to see if aunt Fanny will recognize 
when I get back to America. 

" We were all exceedingly shocked to hear of the 
President's death, for it was an event of which we had 
never even contemplated the possibility. The Ameri- 
cans here, of whom there are not a great many, put on 
mourning, to be worn for thirty days. I have heard 
some foreigners also express their respect for General 
Harrison, and their sorrow at his death. 

" We are now all very well, except that lately, some 
of us have suffered from the heat ; but at present, it is 
not very warm, only that it is impossible, even with a 
veil and parasol to walk in the sun, as early as eight in 
the morning. The sun here seems to have a peculiarly 
penetrating power." .... 
12* 



138 MEMOIR OF 



[To Mrs. D.] 

" Florence, 23d May, 1841. 

" .... I suppose you have never tasted fresh figs ; 
you cannot imagine how good they are. The flavor is 
not at all like that of the figs we have in Boston ; but 
is very pleasant, and in a good fig very sprightly. Papa 
and I am very fond of them, but the rest do not like 
them much. I am told there are so many plums in the 
garden of the hotel where we live, that one year they 
had to take some of them to make vinegar, not being 
able to eat them. The palaces here are very splendid. 
We went the other day to look at the private rooms in 
the Pitti Palace, where the Grand Duke lives. We had 
been to the balls and concerts there last winter, but we 
wished to see the rooms where the Duke, Duchess, and 
their family live. The rooms were very handsome indeed. 
The walls were lined with different colored satin, and 
the chairs were covered with satin to match, and beauti- 
fully gilt. There was one sleeping room which I should 
like to sleep in. The bed had a yellow silk counter- 
pane, and yellow silk curtains, with very handsome 
gilding. On each side of the bed was a sweet picture, 
by one of the first painters, and one of the pictures 
bad a frame entirely composed of silver flowers, which 
was beautiful. I should not think the Grand Duke 
could be perfectly happy, notwithstanding his beautiful 
palace, for his eldest daughter is dying of consumption, 
of which disease his first wife and another daughter 
also died. We saw in the palace a picture of the 
young princess who is so ill, taken when a little girl. 
She has one arm over her dog's neck, and looks very 
pretty. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 139 

" We had some horseraces here, last month, which 
were amusing enough to those who liked them, but I 
cannot say I did. We went one day to see the first 
one, and just as we arrived there was one short race ; 
then we waited an hour, and saw another race, which 
lasted just about four minutes ; and when that was 
over, the clouds which had been gathering all the after- 
noon, poured down in rain and hail. Our carriage, 
though open, fortunately could shut up, so we were safe, 
but those persons whose carriages would not shut, were 
in a sad plight. Then what a running all over the 
meadow ! and such a getting under trees I There was 
a large pavilion erected in the middle of the race-ground 
for those who did not sit in their carriages, and they 
were drenched through. Though not a drop of rain 
touched me, yet I had enough of the races, and would 
not go again. 

" We have been for the last few days villa hunting' ; 
for papa thought in summer we should like to live in 
the country. But it is very difficult to get a villa to 
suit you ; for one is too far from the city, another has 
not enough sleeping rooms, and a third is not clean 
enough. It is in fact difficult to get an Italian house 
that is clean enough. The places in the country here 
are very different from those we have at home. People 
here do not go into the country for shade or coolness, 
as there are no trees around a house, the inhabitants 
fearing the mosquitos, which are in great plenty here, 
in the latter end of summer and the beginning of au- 
tumn. You may imagine an Italian landscape is not 
very pretty, for you see very little but olive-trees, which 
are low, irregular shaped trees, with a light blue green 
leaf, and which make the country look very stiff. Then 
the fields are divided from the road by walls higher 
than a man's head ! " 



CHAPTER X. 

Villa careggi — pursuits — correspondence — journal. 



■ But Italy ! sweet Italy ! thou bearest on thy breast 
The footprints of a mighty race, whose hearts are now at rest. 
Thy noble dead are with us, as we gaze upon thy sky, 
And though we see them not, we feel their memory cannot die ! 



At the end of May, Mr. Everett removed from his 
winter residence in the Casa Lagersward to the Villa 
Careggi, in the neighborhood of Florence. It was with 
some regret that Anne parted from her late happy home, 
but she soon writes with warmest interest of the villa. 

In her jom^nal she says : " We found a good deal of 
its history in a work called ' The Royal Villas of Tus- 
cany,' of which Careggi was one, till the year 1780, 
when the Grand Duke Leopold, the gi-andfather of the 
present Grand Duke, sold it to the family who own it 
now. At the time of the siege of Florence in 1530, 
which was undertaken to restore the Medici, a party 
hostile to them sallied out from Florence, burnt several 
villas, and set fire to Careggi ; but it could not have 
burnt far, for the greater part is of solid stone. The 
pillars of the court have bands of iron round them, 
perhaps because they were injured in the fire. Some 
one suggested, the other day, that the greater part of 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 141 

the building was not the original building of Lorenzo's 
time, on account of this said fire, but I hope it is a mis- 
take, and that we live in the very rooms occupied by 
Lorenzo, and built by his grandfather Cosmo, Pater 
Patriae.* 

" There are other villas round Florence, which are 
prettier, but none which have so many interesting his- 
torical recollections. Lorenzo had many other villas, 
but they were all further from Florence." 

The following letter gives a further description of this 
celebrated mansion. 

[To R. T.] 

" Careggi, 27tli June, 1841. 

"Dear R., — I received your last letter dated the 14th 
of June on the 25th, and you see I am very punctual 
in writing again. I received it just as we were having 
letters from America, and while my painting master 
was here. I could not read it till he was gone ; and 
then I seized it, I assure you. We, like you, have just 
got over the trouble and fatigue of moving. We left 
our lodgings in Florence the second of June, when the 
thermometer was nearly up to 96°, and came to this 
villa which is very pretty. Two days after we moved 
out, we had a tramontana, (north wind,) the thermome- 
ter sank to 65°, and we were almost frozen. This 
weather lasted a fortnight, and now it is very warm 
again ; 'thermometer 80° while I write. Such changes 
are not uncommon here. 



* There is no reason to doubt that the building now standing is 
substantially the original edifice. 



142 MEMOIR OF 

" Our villa is about four hundred years old, and be- 
longed to Lorenzo de' Medici, called the Magnificent, 
whose history, no doubt you know ; if not, read Roscoe^s 
Life of him, which I found very interesting. Lorenzo 
died here at the age of forty-four, and there is a great 
well in the court where, there is a tradition, that the 
servants threw the unfortunate doctor for letting their 
master die so young. There is in this well, the most 
charming echo I ever heard, and an English gentleman, 
the other day when here, said it must be the doctor's 
voice. I do n't know ; I doubt the story a little ; and 
papa does not like to have it talked over before S. be- 
cause he is rather superstitious, and asked, the other 
day, if there was not a winged spirit in the well, that 
pushed up the water-bucket. The walls of the house, 
and every part of it except the window-shutters, doors, 
and rafters, are of solid stone ; some of the inner walls 
are three feet thick. It is a great castle of a place ; 
there are two immense halls, one up and one down 
stairs, each fifty feet long ; several parlors, and a great 
many chambers. C. and I each have a large, lofty 
chamber, and beside this, I have another nice room to 
paint in; it is also my study, and from it I now write 
to you. I shall tell you a little how it looks, that you 
may imagine me in it. 

" The table where I write is in the middle of the 
room ; in front of me a bureau, where I keep my paint- 
ing materials ; on my right, a sofa ; on my left, a 
smaller table with my books ; and near the window, 
which is also on my left, my easel, with an unfinished 
landscape on it. My painting goes on very well, and I 
like it very much. Mamma's chamber is said to be the 
room where Lorenzo died, in the year 1492, and where 
his son, Pope Leo X. was born ; and out of this cham- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 143 

ber opens a little room, where the Platonic Academy, 
with Lorenzo at its head, held its meetings ; so we call 
it the Academy, and sit there reading Lorenzo's life in 
the evening. In this room are two old chairs, which we 
are sure, from their ancient look, must have been used 
in Lorenzo's lifetime ; so we have called them ' Lo- 
renzos;' they are the most old-fashioned things you 
can imagine. An American artist, who was here the 
other day, advised me to sketch them." 

To another friend she wrote : — 

" Our house is not pretty on the outside, for the upper 
story projects from the building in a curious maimer, 
being supported by gi-eat stone brackets, and round this 
upper story, which we do not use, there is an open 
gallery, where one could walk in rainy weather, and 
which affords a most charming view of the country 
round. The panorama is indeed beautiful ; on one side 
you see Castello and Petraja, t^vo summer residences 
of the Grand Duke, with the blue Apennines beyond ; 
on another side, Fiesole, from which old city Florence 
itself is said to draw its origin. Several other villas, 
very near, and innumerable distant ones, fill up the 
view. Then the country around is highly cultivated 
with vineyards and olive-trees, with their light gi-een 
leaf, and though the place does not seem very elevated, 
you can see the tops of many of the buildings in the 
city. The first evening we were here, it rained most 
violently, and the sun then breaking through the clouds, 
we had a lovely rainbow ; the view was then, not 
beautiful — for it was more — it ^^as enchanting; and 
as we looked at it Ave wished for an artist to paint it 
directly. In the west, opposite the rainbow, were large 



144 MEMOIR OP 

masses of rich golden and purple clouds, and as the sun 
went down, they became still brighter. The next morn- 
ing I went out upon Lorenzo's balcony, which opens 
from mamma's study, and took a view of the fine coun- 
try. I have sketched several views, and shall take sev- 
eral more. You shall see them when I get home, that 
you may have some idea of Italian landscapes and 
buildings, which are so entirely different from any you 
see in America. The landscapes round Florence, how- 
ever, are not equal to some of those of France, in 
beauty ; for almost every inch of land is cultivated here, 
so that there is no room left for trees, and we miss the 
shade so agreeable on a warm summer day. We have 
had some oppressively Avarm weather already ; the last 
of April the heat was excessive, and some of the last 
days of May the thermometer was at ninety-six I " . 

In her charming studio^ just described, many happy 
hours were passed ; — here she wrote, studied, and read, 
but superior to all other occupations in interest to her, 
was her painting. She executed this summer two 
beautiful paintings in oil ; one a view of the Villa 
Careggi, as she describes it the first evening after their 
arrival, with the dark clouds just disappearing, and, in 
the midst of them the magic rainbow, springing into 
beauty, which always suggested to her the beautiful 
lines of Campbell, which are copied in her journal the 
15th of May, 1840, at Watertown : — 

" Triumphal arch, that fill'st the sky 
When storms prepare to part, 
I ask not proud philosophy, 
To teach me what thou art ! " 

The other painting is a view of their residence at 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 145 

Florence, with the picturesque convent of San Miniato 
in the distance. It was her habit to go out with her 
master and sketch views from nature, and then finish 
them in her studio. Thus she writes : — 

" August 20, 1841. — It has been exceedingly warm, 
to-day. I went out with my drawing-master to take a 
view of the villa next to us, with a high tower. By 
good fortune, there was a large white mulberry tree 
mider which we sat to take it. But going and com- 
ing it was very warm." 

Of her reading, she says at this time, — 

" 21st. — I have just finished the Life of Gibbon, the 
historian of the ' Decline and Fall,' by himself. It is 
interesting, but so strongly tinged with his infidel prin- 
ciples, that it is in some places quite painful. I am 
now reading in English, Tytler's Universal History,, 
and in Italian, Goldoni's comedies, which are very 
amusing. I have also in German, a German history, 
which I like very much." 

If all young people read as much as Anne, they could 
afford to give some time to light reading, without injury ; 
but with how many is history wholly displaced by 
works of fiction ! 

In addition to these pursuits, it must not be forgotten, 
was her sewing, useful and ornamental, upon which 
she always employed some portion of time daily ; add 
to this her customary walk with her father, and the 
places of amusement she visited, and which are de- 
scribed in her letters, and we may form some estimate 
of her industry ; this, too, in the heat of summer, under 
an Italian sky. 

Her letters at this time are long and interesting, and 
it ought to be remarked, that she generally copied them ; 

13 



146 MEMOIR OF 

which, of course, consumed nearly the same amount of 
time as the first writing. 

[To R. T. in Paris.] 

" Careggi, 27tli June, 1841. 

" Dear E-., — . . . . The fetes of San Giovanni, the 
patron saint of Florence, are just over, and have been 
quite amusing to us strangers ; to the Italians, too, I 
think, for they are a pleasure-loving people, and abound 
m fetes. All the fetes taken together, I have heard it 
said amount to three months. Those of San Giovanni 
lasted two days. The first day there were chariot 
races, fireworks, and an illumination. The square of 
Santa Maria Novella, the largest square in Florence, was 
crowded to overflowing to see the chariot races. On 
one side was a pavilion, hung with red silk and velvet, 
for the Court, the Corps Diplomatique, etc. We were 
invited by the Grand Duke to go there, but were not 
able to. The chariots, four in number, were shaped 
like the ancient chariots, painted different colors, and 
had two horses each. They were very well driven, and 
the race, though short, was very pretty. The fireworks, 
which were on one of the bridges over the Arno, (the 
Ponte Carraja,) were very brilliant ; I do not say they 
were equal to those we witnessed last summer in Paris, 
but they were nearly as fine, and being over the water 
much increased the effect. The illuminations were really 
beautiful ; the Dome, the Palazzo Vecchio, and other 
lofty buildings being illuminated, the effect was very 
grand. While I looked at the fireworks, I thought how 
soon they would be having them at home for the 4th of 
July. I tell papa we must do something to celebrate 






ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 147 

the 4th of July, to let the Italians see we care for it ; 
the last 4th of July we passed in Rouen. 

" The second day of the fetes^ we had a fine Corso 
of carriages, and races of free horses. We drove into 
town to see them, and papa went to the Grand Duke's 
pavihon for that purpose. The Grand Duke, Royal 
family, and Court, appeared on the Corso in seven 
richly ornamented State carriages, six horses each, and 
a body of Life Guards ; the royal children were in 
another coach and six, and last was a carriage with two 
horses with silver trappings, and a coachman and foot- 
man in the ducal livery, in which sat the royal nurse, 
who always has a carriage to herself. She wears a 
black beaver hat Vvdth black plumes, which is the badge 
of a Florentine nurse. The free horses, five in number, 
which ran from one gate of the city to another, were 
very fine animals, and had bands of leather passed 
round them, with bits of tin attached, which pricked 
them as they ran, and made them go faster. They did 
not go as fast as if they had had riders, but went how- 
ever very fast. 

" It is very much the fashion here for the ladies to 
have albums, and get their friends to write or draw in 
them ; I have a very pretty one, bound in pm-ple velvet, 
and gilt, and several persons have written in it. Then 
there is a print of the Grand Duke in the beginning, 
and a drawing that a Swedish young lady, a friend of 
ours, made me. Several other drawings have been 
promised me, — two of them by American artists, who 
paint beautifully. If we ever come together again, I 
shall make you draw in it ; so hold yourself in readi- 
ness. 

" I am very sorry we shall not be likely to meet this 
summer. We shall probably stay here till the end of 



148 MEMOIR OF 

September, and then we talk of going to Naples, and 
afterwards to Rome ; it is better to be at Naples the 
first part of the winter, and at Rome for the Holy 
week in the spring. I will find out exactly om- address, 
and put it in a postscript ; I dare say I have omitted 
half the things I wanted to tell you, but you must take 
the letter as it is." 

[To her cousin, L. H.] 

" Villa Careggi, 4th July, 1841. 

" Dear L., — I celebrate our glorious national festival 
by writing to you. Papa wrote a letter to your mother, 
not long ago, in which he described our house, so I can 
add nothing to the description, except to mention that 
C. and I have each a large chamber, and I have another 
room for my study and painting room. I am painting 
now in oils a landscape from nature, and shall paint 
some more views taken about this place. Pray tell 
E. W., if you see him, that his paint-box which he gave 
to me when he left us, has done, and continues to do 
me very good service, and that my painting master, in 
speaking of it, said, ' Va bene ' or ' molto bene,' or 
some such thing. My drawing-master speaks nothing 
but Italian to me, nor I to him. The other day, I gave 
him a full account of the visit of the Indians to Bos- 
ton, three or four years ago, and he was to the last 
degree astonished. The next day I gave him a sketch 
of the Constitution of the United States, and when he 
heard that the people elected the members to Congress, 
he opened his eyes in wonder. Poor Tuscans I they 
cannot conceive of liberty, yet they are fond of the 
Grand Duke too ; he is an amiable man and the gov- 
ernment is as good as a despotism can be. 



ANXE GORHAM EVERETT. 149 

" The Tuscans have some queer customs. When a 
young peasant girl marries, her parents give her as much 
money as they can spare, for a dowry, from a hundred 
to three hundi*ed dollars, and with this the sposa buys 
as many pearls as she can get for this sum, real, 
genuine pearls, and often very handsome. These pearls 
they only wear on fete days and Sundays, and they con- 
stitute their property ; they consider it the safest way 
of investing their money. Om* gardener's wife, for 
her dowry, bought seven strings of pearls, and hand- 
some pearl ear-rings ; and then on a fete day she 
appears with them, and her large Leghorn hat, and 
looks very happy. The women and men indiscrimi- 
nately work in the fields, and the country is in a high 
state of cultivation. Strawberries and cherries have 
long been gone, so are raspbemes, of which we have 
seen very few ; we are now having a feast of apricots ; 
oh, such a quantity ! I never saw one quarter as many 
at home as I eat here ; they are as plenty as the com- 
monest vegetables. We also have plenty of plums and 
fresh figs, the latter immensely large, and the grape 
vines are loaded with fruit, which w^ill soon be ripe. 
The olive-trees are full of young fruit, and the hedges 
full of blackberry vines, which, unlike ours, have a pink 
blossom. As a set-off to all this plenty, we are tor- 
mented almost to death by flies, mosquitos, and other 
wicked insects ; are sadly bitten, and have to sleep 
under mosquito nets from June to November. It is 
very warm here ; in Florence the other day, the ther- 
mometer was a hundred ; but that was in a very warm 
house ; about eighty is the average. Last month we 
had a spell of cold weather, which was rather unex- 
pected ; the thermometer fell to sixty-five." .... 

13* 



150 MEMOIR OF 



[To Hon. P. C. Brooks.] 

" Careggi, 31st July, 1841. 

" Dear Grandpapa, — I write to you from our Floren- 
tine villa, which we find very cool and pleasant this 
warm weather. We received your letter written to 
mamma, C, and myself, some time ago ; and soon after 
C. wrote to you, and told you all about the productions 
here, and about the people, and so forth. I shall, there- 
fore, tell you a little about our amusements. 

" There is a Florentine lady who has a pretty garden 
annexed to her palace, and during the month of July 
she gave four balls, at which her garden was illumi- 
nated. The lamps were hung on the trees, and had 
paper shades around them; but they were perfectly 
safe, and I believe only one fell down. The company, 
a.mong whom were oui* family at two of the balls, 
walked around the garden, and though it was eleven 
o'clock at night, there was not the slightest dampness 
in the air, nor the least dew on the grass. A gentle- 
man who has lived here some years told me that in the 
months of July and August, there is no dew here, and 
I never saw any in Paris. We think, grandpapa, that 
such balls as these, given at Medford, would be very 
pleasant. You might walk into the garden from the 
large western parlor, and the road leading to the bridge 
and grove might be illuminated. Your grounds have 
many more advantages for such a/^e, than the garden 
of this Italian lady. The fashionable hour here, for 
going to balls, is from ten to half past ten. 

'^ The fetes of St. John, the guardian saint of Flor- 
ence, have lately taken place, and the celebration of 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 151 

them was very amusing. We had extremely pretty 
illuminations and fireworks 

" The gentlemen were dressed in their uniforms, and 
the ladies in court dresses, trains, and diamonds ; all 
this seemed a, good deal to do for some racing horses ; 
but the Grand Duke likes to keep up old customs, and 
I believe these races used to take place in the days of 
Lorenzo. 

" We live close to a country-seat of the Grand Duke's, 
called ' La Petraja,' which we were told is a very pretty 
place, and advised to visit it ; so we went on the warm- 
est day we have had, when the thermometer had been 
at eighty-four. To be sure, we went in the evening, but 
it was still so warm we could hardly bear the heat. 
But as the carriage reached Petraja, the Grand Duke 
was just driving in, after some days' absence, and 
visitors could not be admitted. So we drove to the 
Cascine, and then home. 

" I shall send you, on the fourth page, a little record 
of how the thermometer has stood lately, that you may 
see the average of our weather." .... 

[To Mrs. C. F. A.] 

" Careggi, 5tli September, 1841. 

" My dear Aunt A., — .... I wish you were here 
just at this time, to eat some of our nice fruit ; we have 
been having peaches a great while,- and plums are al- 
most finished. But our grapes ! you should see them. 
The estate is very large, and the fields are intersected 
with grape vines, which are loaded with grapes, red, 
white, and purple. Our landlord makes a great deal of 
wane, but there are so many grapes that we are allowed 
to help ourselves freely ; and morning, noon, and night 



152 MEMOIR OF 

we eat them. Before breakfast, after breakfast, at 
luncheon, in the afternoon, and at dinner, which is at 
five o'clock, we have a bunch of grapes in our hand. 
Grandpapa w^ould certainly be pleased to wander 
through our beautiful vineyard. There are also Muscat 
grapes, which grow on the walls of the house. 

" I dare say you have read some of the letters describ- 
ing our house ; how large it is, and how many rooms 
there are. You will have a very good idea of the villa, 
when we get home again, for I have some drawings 
and paintings of it, which I can show you. It is in- 
deed very different from an American country house, 
and so is the landscape different from an American 
landscape. Instead of orchards, corn fields, and noble 
forest-trees, you look around you and see the yellow- 
green vines, the blue-green olive-trees, and the tall, 
magnificent cypresses ; but there is very seldom shade 
about an Italian villa ; the Italians think it brings 
insects, and do not desire it. 

" I miss our beautiful rivers here ; the tributaries to 
the Arno are very often dried up, and in their best con- 
dition are very slender streams. 

" In general I like the Italians, but they have some 
singular notions, — such as their preference for unripe 
fruit. They think, or say they think, that ripe fruit 
is too heating; yet the same people, that will re- 
fuse a nice ripe pear, because it is too heating, and will 
eat a hard green one, will, on a warm summer's day, 
drink nearly a flask of wine ! Their passion for wine 
is perfectly astonishing, and in settling the wages of 
your people, you have to give them so much a month 
for wine ; they even give it to the babies. It is true 
the milk is not very good for the children, for the cows 
are never let out to pasture, but are shut up in the 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 153 

stable year in and year out ; they cut the grass in the 
fields, and bring it to them. You may imagine, there- 
fore, that the milk is not very good. They will soon 
begin to make the wine, and in a month or two, the oil, 
from the plentiful crop of olives ; but we shall hardly 
be here to see it. 

" We are tolerably proficient in speaking Italian now. 
E. speaks it as fast as he does English, though probably 
not as well. S. speaks it a little, and as great pains 
have been taken to teach it to W. he too speaks some." 

[Extracts from her Journal.] 

" Caregg-i, July 10, 1841. — This afternoon we went 
to Pratolino ; we were to meet some American friends 
there and walk round with them. We started a few 
minutes before four, and found the road almost wholly 
up hill, and as it was very warm and sultry, the drive 
was not very pleasant ; however, on one hill we saw a 
very pretty prospect of Florence. We arrived at Prato- 
lino at half past five, before om' friends. This place 
was anciently a royal country-seat, and there was a 
palace there, built by the second Grand Duke of the 
JNIedici family ; but Ferdinand III., the present Grand 
Duke's father, took it down by the advice of his coun- 
sellors, who thought the palace would be undermined 
by the waterworks in it. The park is very fine, not laid 
out in the usual stiff Italian style, but following the 
beauties of nature ; and there are everywhere pretty 
groves, ponds, green walks, and so forth ; the whole is 
a good specimen of this beautiful country. 

' Che Apennin parte, 
E '1 mar circonda, e I'Alpe.' 



154 MEMOIR OF 

" The great statue by Gianbologna, is a curious sight; 
it is made of stone, and is not standing erect but lean- 
ing over, with one foot and one hand bent, and the 
other two extended ; it is called the Apennine, and is 
represented as pushing the water out of some creature's 
mouth ; his feet are seven feet and a half long, and one 
of his fingers was, I should think, nearly three feet long. 
At the back of the statue is a gi-eat dragon, and under 
one of the wings are some steps and an entrance, so we 
went in, and stood in the body of the monster. There 
is a small chamber in his head and nose, but we could 
not get into it, because there was an iron bar across it 
to keep it firm. Under the statue is a cavern, which 
leads through and through to the pond in front, and 
where you see the water dropping very refreshingly. 
The whole statue, if standing, would be fifty or sixty 
feet high. 

" In the centre of the grounds is a pretty little chapel, 
kept very neat, with a good picture in it, said to be a 
copy of Andrea del Sarto ; service is performed in it 
every Sunday. After leaving the statue, we walked 
round part of the grounds, and then went into the 
house, and took some cake and lemonade. After this, 
we had to wait a great while for our carriages, for the 
men were lazy as usual. We returned in a shorter 
time than we went, and reached home a little before 
ten." 

" 20th. — I have lately been reading quite an inter- 
esting book about the sepulchres of ancient Etruria, 
which in these modern times have been discovered and 
opened, and throw much light on the history of the 
ancient Etruscans. There have been found in them 
splendid sarcophagi, bronzes, vases, and engraved 
gems, besides fine paintings representing many different 



/ 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 155 

scenes of life, giving a very good idea of what the Etrus- 
cans did. Some of these tombs cannot be less than 
three thousand years old. They abound in various 
parts of the ecclesiastical State and Tuscany, on the 
site of old Etrurian towns and cities. Lucien Bona- 
parte, Napoleon's brother, found on his estate a great 
many tombs, and his wife appeared at a ball in a com- 
plete set of Etruscan golden ornaments, which were 
very beautiful and much admired. The present Pope 
has founded a museum of these things at Rome." 

"14th August. — We drove to Florence this morn- 
ing and went to see the museum of Egyptian antiqui- 
ties, which is very interesting. At the time when this 
subject began to attract attention, the Grand Duke 
sent a party to Egypt, to explore the sepulchres, 
and all these relics were taken from them, having been 
buried with the dead. The first thing we saw was an 
ancient Scythian chariot, taken in battle by some Egyp- 
tian warrior, and found in his tomb in many parts ; 
it was brought to Florence, and there put together ; it 
was very interesting to think that this chariot was made 
at least three thousand years ago, and perhaps more. 

" We also saw all sorts of ancient hieroglpyhic in- 
scriptions, mummies, or embalmed bodies in their cases, 
some exceedingly ancient, and some immense sarcoph- 
agi of stone, also one of wood, with hieroglyphics 
and designs on it. The hieroglyphics are discovered to 
be, not what was formerly supposed, mere emblems of 
things, but alphabetical letters, and learned men have 
been able to read some of them. 

" I was much interested by one cabinet. The ancients 
imagined that their friends needed some food after 
death, and so they put it into their sepulchres ; and 
there we saw the little dishes with old dried raisins, old 



156 MEMOIR OF 

black eggs, nuts, onions, wheat, and so forth, all in a 
wonderful state of preservation. I have heard that 
some onions taken out of an Egyptian tomb were once 
planted and grew ! We w^ere shown a shirt made of 
papyrus, the material on which they wrote, and which 
is of a silky substance, of a yellowish brown color. 
We saw a good deal more on which something was 
written. There were all sorts pf wooden and stone 
utensils, an old chair with a cloth seat, very well pre- 
served, and many different kinds of vases. There is 
one piece of earthen ware with a Chinese inscription 
on it, which seems to show that there was some com- 
merce between Egypt and China. Among other things 
preserved in the tombs, is an ibis, the sacred bird of the 
Egyptians, and a crocodile ; and the hair of a mummy, 
which, on being rubbed with the fingers, fell into dust ; 
in short, I cannot mention half the things we saw." 

"18th. — I drew and read this morning as usual, 
and at one we drove into town to see the gems, 
which are kept in the Uffizi, near the picture-gallery. 
A considerable number of these are cameos, with like- 
nesses of the Roman Emperors and the Empresses, 
also other great characters, and the gods and god- 
desses of antiquity. They are very beautifully cut, 
and their being of undoubted antiquity, makes them 
still more interesting. There were also many intaglios, 
but as these were on dark stones, and difficult to be 
distinguished, there are little plaster casts by the side 
of them to enable you to see them better. There was 
one with a likeness of Lorenzo de' Medici ; one of Leo 
X. ; also a cameo with Lorenzo on it, very like his pic- 
ture in the gallery. We also looked at a few medals, 
but hastily, for the gallery was about to close. There 
was an old Etruscan one, and another of solid gold, of 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 157 

the Florentine republic, of which this is the only copy ; 
another which was at Paris, was stolen. We were 
shown the last seal of the republic at Florence, which 
was an ancient intaglio and very beautiful." . . . . ' 

" 13th September. — .... We drove to the Cam- 
panile of the Duomo to see the fine prospect. The 
ascent was fatiguing ; there are four hundred and 
twelve steps ; but, at last, we arrived at the top, and 
there was a beautiful view. We could see Careggi, 
Fiesole, Poggio Imperiale, and all the adjacent country, 
and the Apennines closed the view. There we could 
see every house and church in Florence. How much 
smaller the city is than Paris, which we looked down 
upon from the Arc de PEtoile, at this time, last year ! 

" The descent was accomplished more safely, or at least 
more quickly, than the ascent. The guide who showed 
us the way, said that the gilt ball on the top of the 
large dome could admit eight persons to sit down to 
dinner, but this I may be allowed to doubt." .... 

" 17th. — There is at present meeting in Florence, a 
society of learned men, (scienziati,) which met last 
year at Turin, and takes its turn here this year. It is 
composed chiefly of Italians, but strangers from all 
countries are also admitted as members. Papa is a 
delegate on behalf of the American Academy of 
Arts and Sciences. While it is sitting, there are many 
amusements in the city; concerts, conversaziones, all 
the public places thrown open, and an exhibition some- 
thing like our Mechanics Fair in Boston. 

" We went to see the latter to-day. There were 
specimens of beautiful leather, silks, velvets, and fine 
Leghorn straw for hats ; also beautiful pianos, tables, 
and vases, and some raw silk as it is spun from the 
cocoon, very pretty and curious. There were also pic- 

14 



15y MEMOIR OF 

tures and statuary ; among the former were several 
very beautiful landscapes, a likeness of the Grand 
Duchess, — which however did not do her justice, — 
and some busts ; I saw also a picture painted by Mr. 
Nichols. Among the statuary I was glad to see some 
busts by Mr. Clevenger and Mr. Powers; and two 
busts of the Grand Duke were there, which looked very 
like. Upon the whole it was an interesting exhibition. 

" When we left it we drove to the Ricardi Palace, 
a superb palace built by Cosmo, Pater Patrice^ and 
aftei-wards owned by the Ricardi family. Upon the 
family becoming reduced, the government bought it for 
only twenty-five thousand dollars I 

" We went into the large hall, of which the ceiling 
is richly painted in fresco by Ghirlandajo, and the whole 
room superbly gilt ; it must have been magnificent 
when new ! Inlaid with the gold is red velvet. 

" We then went into the old chapel, of which the 
walls are painted in fresco ; one part is said to represent 
Careggi. There is also on the walls a portrait of the 
Greek Emperor, who came to Florence to attend a 
council ; this immense palace is now occupied by pub- 
lic officers. On leaving it, we went to the church of 
San Lorenzo, to see the place where Lorenzo de' Medici 
was buried, which we had never seen before. He was 
placed in a porphyry urn with his brother who was 
assassinated, and an inscription underneath marks the 
place, which must be an object of curiosity to every 
one who feels as interested as I do in the life of Lo- 
renzo. 

" We also took a last look of Michelangelo's statues 
in the little sacristy." 

" 21st September. — We went into town to-day to 
see the Museum of Natural History. We went first 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 159 

into a room which has nothing to do with the rest of 
the museum ; it is called the tribune of Galileo, and is 
beautifully fitted up ; the walls and floor are marble, 
and the ceiling rich gilding and blue intermixed. Here 
is a statue of the ^-eat astronomer, with the first tele- 
scope made by him, and others of his instruments. 
The whole room has a very pleasing effect, and all one 
has to wish is, that some such honors could have been 
paid him while living, instead of his being dragged 
before the Inquisition for proclaiming the most glorious 
truths. But that is always the way. Witness Dante's 
fate ! 

" We then went into a room where there were all 
sorts of stuffed animals — a very fine giraffe, a hippopot- 
amus, a fearful looking creature with a tremendous 
mouth, and the skeleton of a young elephant. Also 
some fossil animals, or rather parts of them, colossal in 
size ; there were a shark and a crocodile, very formid- 
able, and a lion and lioness, both looking ready to eat 
one up. All the animals are stuffed with the greatest 
care and look very natural. Then there is all the 
animal kingdom, beginning with the lowest living 
things, such as fungi, polypi, sponges, and so forth, and 
ending with birds. Next to the polypi are serpents, 
insects, and beetles, and so upward. There were 
some immense snakes, preserved in bottles, also a great 
collection of shells and a great number of fishes. The 
birds were really beautiful, of all sizes and colors, from 
the immense ostrich to the little humming-bird, and 
beside each bird was laid a specimen of its nest and 
egg. The nest of the flamingo was very curious, look- 
ing like small sticks of wood braided together. There 
was a fine collection of parrots, blue, green, and yellow, 
and innumerable other birds. 



160 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

" Then we went into a room where there were all 
sorts of wax flowers and plants, extremely well imi- 
tated from nature ; they really looked so natural one 
could hardly tell them apart. Then a cabinet of min- 
erals, stones, carnelians, and agates scientifically ar- 
ranged, which did not interest me so much, and many 
beautiful specimens of marble. I forgot to mention 
that there was one cabinet with stuffed monkeys, which 
looked as roguish as possible. But the thing the most 
interesting of all is the ' Sala de Galileo,' which the 
present Grand Duke has had arranged." 



CHAPTER XI 



Departure fro3I careggi — journal — a fortnight's survey of 
naples and its environs. 



'* Farewell, my home, my home no longer now, 
Witness of many a calm and happy day; 
And thou, fair eminence, upon whose brow 
Dwells the last sunshine of the evening ray, 
Farewell! " 



Anxe's agreeable expectation of passing the winter 
at Naples and Rome, was disappointed at the outset, 
by the appointment of Mr. Everett as Minister to Eng- 
land. In the hurried visits which she was permitted 
to make to these interesting cities, she could only con- 
sole herself by saying, " it is better than none." Again 
and again she expresses her sorrow at leaving the Villa 
Careggi, to which she " had become so much attached," 
but at last she wrote cheerfully, — 

"30th September, 1841. — Our last morning at Ca- 
reggi, — we have been busy all the morning packing 
and putting up om* last things. The contadini who 
have served us seemed really sorry to part with us, and 
all in taking leave of us said, ' a 7'ivederlaJ I am 
sorry to leave Careggi myself, where every thing is so 
pleasant ; but then I want to see Naples, and I shall 
not break my heart. Good-by to Careggi, the home of 
14* 



162 MEMOIR OF 

the benevolent Cosmo, and the wise, the elegant Lo- 
renzo de' Medici I " 

A letter written on the 6th October gives a condensed 
account of their journey to Naples, although, let it be 
understood, her journal keeps its faithful record of each 
day in its order ; on board the steamboat, and at every 
stopping place for the night, one page or more is written. 
How she accomplished the writing, in her elegant, fair 
hand, is not the only mystery ; a greater still lies in the 
mind that never rested till its task was done, and in 
the steady purpose that never waited till to-morrow to 
do the work of to-day. 

[To Miss L., at Florence.] 

"Naples, 6tli October, 1841. 

" My DEAR L., — I write to yon from this beautiful 

city, where we arrived on the 4th of October We 

left Lorenzo's villa on the last day of September, and 
Florence on the 1st of October, at six in the morning ; 
the evening of the same day we reached Leghorn, where 
we only staid till the next day; for it is not a very 
pleasant place, and as in our former visit, we saw what 
is worth seeing, we had no motive for staying. 

" We had a passage in the steamboat of about thirty- 
six or thirty-seven hours from Leghorn to Naples. It 
was a pretty good passage, only the latter part of it 
there was a head wind, which caused a great deal of 
motion, and almost everybody was sick ; I was not 
actually so, but felt uncomfortable enough to wish my- 
self on shore." 

In her journal she wrote : " The sickness still con- 
tinued, and I was very nearly attacked by it ; but I sat 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 163 

very still on the deck, and repeated pieces of poetry to 
myself, and so kept it off. 

" We landed here in a drizzling rain, and after pass- 
ing through the custom-house, the officers of which 
were not at all strict with us, we came to the Hotel 
Gran Bretagna. This hotel is situated on the Via 
Chiaja, which street is called the Via dei Forestieri, 
from the fact of strangers coming here so much. It 
overlooks the Villa Reale, a public promenade, rather 
small, but very pretty, cool, and shady. At the end of 
this walk is the lovely bay of Naples, which, in a bright, 
clear day, is truly beautiful ; alive with innumerable little 
boats, and in the distance, perhaps a steamer ; with high 
hills on each side covered with white houses. It is, in- 
deed, very pleasant. 

" The streets of Naples, that I have seen, appear in 
general wider and more commodious than those of 
Florence ; and this is saying something, as I saw them 
the first time in a violent rain 

" We were told by everybody, before we came here, 
that we must lock up all our trunks and carpet-bags, or 
else we should lose something, for that the people of 
Naples had a bad habit of laying their hands on other 
people's ^ property. This seems to be true, for as 
papa was walking in the street, he felt some one at his 
pocket, and caught a boy in the very act of stealing his 
handkerchief. That time he lost nothing; but after- 
wards somebody came behind him and took away his 
pocket-handkerchief without his perceiving it; so when 
I went out I guarded my watch and pocket very care- 
fully. 

" The Italian, as spoken here, is a little different from 
that of Tuscany, but it sounds equally pleasant to the 
ear, and is equally easy to understand ; but in one thing 



164 MEMOIR OF 

I observe, the Neapolitans are different from the Tus- 
cans. On board the steamboat a Neapolitan gentle- 
man, in addressing us, used voi and vostro, instead of 
Lei and Suo, to which I have always been accustomed. 
This, I must own, made me a little indignant, and I 
had a good mind to speak cross to the gentleman, 
especially as I was in the politest manner using the 
third person to him ; but I restrained myself, and only 
exchanged glances with C. who sat beside me. After 
we arrived here the chambermaid said Vostro to me, 
and I thought to myself, the Neapolitans do not know 

how to be polite 

" We shall stay here a few weeks and then go to 
Rome; after that we have planned nothing." .... 

Journal. " 6th October. — All day to-day we have 
had what is called a Scirocco ; that is, a violent storm 
of wind and rain from the sea. A Scirocco sometimes 
lasts three days, even a week. We went to see the 
Museum this morning, which consists principally of 
things taken from Hercula,neum and Pompeii. First, 
we saw some old mosaic from the latter place, which, 
though coarse, is very well done, and in a spirited man- 
ner ; then a great many ancient inscriptions, some from 
the famous temple of Isis at Pompeii ; then we went 
into a long gallery full of ancient statues, many of 
which are in entire preservation. The two equestrian 
statues of Balbus and his son from Herculaneum, seem 
to be perfect, and are beautifully done. Then there is a 
collection of busts, and a great many statues of the 
Roman Emperors and Empresses, also some of Julius 
Caesar, but these are doubtful. There is a statue, 
called of Aristides, which is considered a chef d'cEuvre, 
and Canova, when he was here, marked three places in 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 165 

the floor from which you can look at it to the greatest 
advantage. The celebrated group of the Toro Farnese 
we looked at with much less interest, from considering 
that so much of it is modern. I wish they would not 
restore the ancient statues which are mutilated, but 
would leave them as they are found. In one room 
there is a collection of miscellaneous articles from 
Pompeii; such as little images, vases, and many orna- 
ments found in the temple of the Egyptian goddess 
Tsis, who was much worshipped at Pompeii ; there 
were some mummies also from Egypt, but these were 
revolting objects ; and part of a fountain, in which some 
of the water still remains, having been carefully kept 
from the air for seventeen hundred years. Close by this 
fountain is the celebrated head of the bronze horse, the 
body of which is said to have been melted. The last 
room we went into had a collection of bronze busts and 
statues, which were generally in better preservation 
than the marble ones. We could not go through this 
immense Museum to-day, but must finish it if we can 
to-morrow. I forgot to mention, among the statues, 
one of Hercules, of which the legs are said to have 
been missing, and restored by a pupil of Michelangelo ; 
and afterwards the original legs found in the Tiber. 
But this seems doubtful." 

"7th October. — The Scirocco was over this morn- 
ing, and the day very bright and clear. We went to 
finish our inspection of the Museum to-day, and saw a 
great many more interesting things. Those excavated 
from Pompeii were the most curious. There were 
ail sorts of kitchen utensils, and some of the old Pom- 
peian lamps, with a little oil left in them ; then there 
was a collection of all sorts of glasses, and some of 
them were shaped just like those of the present day; 



166 MEMOIR OF 

some articles of a lady's toilette were found, and we 
saw the polished steel mirrors, and something that 
looked like rouge. You see, also, in many of the 
rooms, the old mosaic floors, taken from houses in 
Pompeii ; one from the Villa of Diomed, which is men- 
tioned in Bulwer's interesting work, ' The Last Days 
of Pompeii.' In one room we saw the old bread which 
was baking in the oven at the time of the eruption, 
also old eggs, in very good preservation, as far as shape 
goes, olives, prunes, and barley. In this same room 
were many sets of gold ornaments, rings, necklaces, etc. ; 
and a collection of richly carved cameos, some of great 
size and value. There is, too, a sort of shallow 
cup, made of a single onyx, superbly cut, and which 
was found by accident by a soldier ; they once thought 
of setting it on a pedestal, and bored a hole in the 
middle, which is a sad pity. In this room were some 
little perfume bottles with perfume in them. 

" There is in this building a large gallery of pictures, 
of which a few are good, but the greater part are not 
worth looking at. There were some fine views of 
Venice among them. We saw, also, a noble library, 
containing, it is said, two hundred thousand volumes ; 
and I can readily believe it. But the most interesting 
thing of all was the manuscripts from Herculaneum. 
These were written on the papyrus, and charred by the 
lava to cinders. When these were discovered they 
looked like charcoal, but somebody found out what 
they were, and invented a method of unrolling them ; 
then with great labor and difficulty they were deci- 
phered. We saw the machine for unrolling them ; — 
by a very delicate process, gold beaters skin is fastened 
to the back of them by way of a lining, and so they 
have made out several works of an author called Philo- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 167 

demus. The expense of unrolling one manuscript was 
nearly two thousand ducats, about $1,500. To-morrow 
we go to see, if nothing prevents, Pompeii and Hercu- 
laneum themselves, of which we saw models to-day at 
the Museum." 

" 8th October. — We started this morning for the 
buried cities, in a vehicle with three horses ; a good deal 
of the road lay by the sea-shore, and it did not take us 
long to arrive at Herculaneum, which is five miles from 
Naples. The greater part of this city being buried 
sixty feet deep, and closed in by solid lava, was ex- 
tremely difficult to excavate. We went down, first 
lighting torches, into a deep sort of cellar, which cellar 
was once a city open to the light of heaven. We saw 
the seats of the old theatre, and ascended part of them ,' 
here were found a great many statues and the ancient 
manuscripts ; it was excessively damp here, in some 
parts even wet. A part, however, of Herculaneum is 
laid open to the light, and there you can see the cham- 
bers and the mosaic floors, and the old street, which 
was nicely paved with lava, though narrow. We got 
some bits of marble to carry away with us, but were 
obliged to do it by stealth, for the Neapolitan govern- 
ment is very unwilling to have any thing taken from 
these cities. 

" On leaving Herculaneum, a drive of seven miles- 
further took us to Pompeii, which interested me more 
than Herculaneum, inasmuch as it is larger, and much 
more laid open. Instead of being covered with lava, 
Pompeii was covered with a shower of ashes and 
pumice-stone, which was much easier to remove. The 
first street you enter is a continuation of the great 
Appian Way, is paved with lava, and on it you can see 
ruts, worn by the chariot wheels of the Pompeians*. 



168 MEMOIR OF 

You then enter the villa of Diomed, which is described 
by Bulwer, and which has very extensive wine cellars, 
in which were found seventeen skeletons, a larger num- 
ber than in any other place together. The house is 
large, and the floors paved with mosaic, but the rooms 
are very small ; the sleeping chambers opened into the 
peristyle, or court, and had no other windows. We 
took our dinner in the house of the Vestals, which has 
a beautiful mosaic floor. It was quite agreeable to be 
eating dinner in Pompeii. 

" Afterwards we went into the house of Sallust, 
which, in one room, has a beautiful marble floor, the 
Temples of Augustus, Venus, and Fortune, and the 
Temple of Isis, which is in a very good state of pres- 
ervation ; but none of these buildings have roofs, for 
they were broken down by the ashes ; so it presents the 
appearance of a roofless city. In one building is a 
mosaic floor, representing the battles of Alexander and 
Darius, which is very curious. Also we saw a statue 
of a sphinx, very white indeed and well preserved. The 
Forum Nundinarium is in good preservation ; but the 
most interesting thing of all is the amphitheatre, which 
is almost perfect, and answers exactly the descriptions 
we have of them ; here were found several skeletons 
of men and beasts. Yesterday a house was opened 
and its contents carried to Naples." 

" 9th. — It has been as warm to-day as I ever knew 
it anywhere else in August. 

" We went out this morning to buy some of those 
little coral and lava ornaments, which are made here, 
and are very pretty ; we bought several of them to 
carry home for presents. 

" This afternoon we took a very pleasant drive ; we 
drove along this street till we came to a high mountain, 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 169 

which we ascended to see the reputed tomb of Virgil. 
We then went down till we came to a sort of grotto, 
where Virgil is said to have been bmied. It is a 
very pretty, rural spot, but difficult of access, and it is 
very doubtful if he was buried there. There is a 
modern tombstone with the inscription he is said to 
have written for himself — 

' Mantua me genuit ; Calabri rapuere ; tenet nunc 
Partlienope : cecini pascua, rura, duces.' 

" After leaving Virgil's tomb, we drove along to the 
west of Naples, a beautiful drive by the sea-shore, till 
we came to the lake of Agnano, a pretty lake, which is 
thought to have been originally the crater of a volcano,, 
and where we saw in one part a sulphur spring bub^ 
bling up. Then they took us to the Grotta del Cane, a 
natural cave in the rock, where at the bottom is a kind 
of bad air, {carbonic acid g'as,) which has the effect of 
extinguishing fire. They also put a dog in, (from 
which it takes its name,) to see how long he can live 
without breathing, but this is a very cruel experiment,, 
and we begged to have it dispensed with ; however,, 
they would do it, and the poor dog seemed to suffer 
very much for two minutes. They then showed us 
some natural sulphur warm baths, (vapor baths,) in a 
small building ; they appear to have a connection with. 
Vesuvius under the city of Naples, and when there is 
an eruption from the volcano the walls of the bath- 
house crumble. This I think is extremely curious.. 
The vapor was so warm we could hardly bear it. la 
fact all that region seems to be volcanic, and it is won- 
derful Naples has stood safe so long. We saw here- 
some ruins of baths, built in the time of Augustus. 

15 



170 MEMOIR OF 

" In returning we drove through the Grotto of Posi- 
lipo, a passage cut through the solid rock ; it is very- 
ancient ; Pliny mentions it. It is near a mile long, and 
in some places dark, and lighted with lamps ; the air is 
in some parts very damp and unpleasant." 

" 10th. — We have been this morning to see some 
of the principal churches in Naples ; all we saw- were 
very elegantly ornamented, and much richer than those 
of Florence. We went first to the Church of San 
Francisco di Paolo, which was begun in 1817. It is 
a very handsome church with pictures and statues and 
beautiful marble columns. The next we saw is called 
the ' Chiesa di Gesii,' and the ceiling is superbly gilt ; 
it has also fine columns. The Church of Santa Chiara 
has very rich gilding and some frescoes said to be by 
Giotto. Here we saw the tombs of poor Joanna of 
Naples, of her father, the Duke of Calabria, and her 
grandfather. King Robert, which interested me very 
much. The Chapel of San Severo is private, belong- 
ing to the Prince of San Severo ; here were some 
fine statues, with veils drawn over the faces and bodies, 
and through these marble veils the statue is perfectly 
distinct. These are considered very fine, and v^ere 
made in the middle of the last century ; this church has 
been much injured by an earthquake. 

" We then went into San Filippo Neri, which has 
a magnificent ceiling and some fine paintings. The 
Church of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples, is 
the Metropolitan Church and very handsome. We 
were taken into a side room, and shown some images of 
different saints, forty-one in number, and all of solid 
silver, and many of them with very rich jewels ; these 
images are displayed three times a year, at solemn fes- 
tivals, one of which is just over. The festival dresses 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 171 

of the priests, embroidered with silver and gold, are 
very splendid, and also the silver flowers, and other 
ornaments of the church. They have a vessel said 
to contain the blood of San Gennaro, which is 
made to liquefy, as by miracle, on festival days, but 
this we could not see, for it was locked by two keys, 
of which the king keeps one and the archbishop the 
other. 

" We went to one more church, which contains 
the monument of Joanna IT. of Naples, and her 
brother Ladislas; but has not much that is interesting 
in it 

" To-morrow, if possible, we go to Vesuvius." 

[To L. P. H. in Boston.] 

" Crater of Mount Vesuvius, > 
11th October, 1841. j 

" Dear L., — I write to you from the burning moun- 
tain, after a difficult ascent. Sulphurous smoke is all 
around me, and I am quite tired, so I must stop. 

" A. G. Everett." 

" Naples. — Well, I have got down from the moun- 
tain alive, and now I will give you an account of our 
excursion. But, first, I should tell you we have been a 
week in Naples, running round all the time seeing 
many interesting things, and enjoying ourselves very 
much. Next, I must beg you to excuse the above writ- 
ing, for I really could not write well on the mountain ; 
now for the excursion. 

" We started from our house in Naples after break- 
fast, about half past eight, and di'ove to Resina, a little 
town at the foot of the mountain. There we stopped 



172 MEMOIR OF 

at the house of Salvatore, the best guide to the summit, 
and mounted horses to ascend. I was put on a great 
high horse, with a hard leather saddle, and went up a 
stony road continually ascending ; I assure you it was 
not so pleasant, especially as I have not been in the 
saddle for two years. My horse had to be led part of 
the way, but at last we reached the Hermitage, a little 
house part way up, and rested ourselves a while ; then 
again mounted our steeds and rode till we were obliged 
to stop. Then began the most difficult part. We had 
to. step on the projecting bits of lava, which were very 
steep. C. and I, (for mamma did not make the expedi- 
tion,) were carried part of the way, taking turns in a 
chair ; otherwise, I do not think we could have got up, 
for it takes away the breath. Well, at last, we were at 
the top, and began to walk around the crater, follow- 
ing our guide Salvatore. We looked down into the 
crater, which is very deep, and from which a thick 
column of smoke was proceeding, and occasionally we 
heard a distant rumbling noise ; but Salvatore said he 
had often been down into the crater. 1 would not 
have gone there for the world, although we were told it 
was not dangerous. We proceeded partly round the 
crater, which is three miles in circumference, and came 
at length to a place where it was disagreeably warm to 
the feet ; I had on India-rubber shoes, and was really 
afraid of melting them, and my cloak, which I laid 
down for a few minutes on a bank, was singed a little. 
Here there was a deep hole, and the guide put his stick 
in, which was soon on fire ; there was also another 
hole, a sort of natural little oven, where a guide cooked 
some eggs, and toasted some bread, which we ate. 
There was a fine prospect of the charming bay, the 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 173 

city, and adjacent country. A good deal of the time 
we were up there, we were enveloped in a cloud of 
sulphurous smoke, which was not pleasing. 

" The descent was curious ; we did not come the 
way we went, which would have been too laborious ; 
but we ran, rather than walked, a descent of near a 
thousand feet, over the ancles deep, in burnt ashes and 
cinders. We accomplished this descent very rapidly, 
and soon reached our horses ; these we mounted, and 
now we were obliged to go down the stony road we 
came up in the morning, which was much more fatigu- 
ing. On each side of us for part of the way, the coun- 
try around was black, and laid waste with lava, and 
presented a sad picture of desolation. We reached Re- 
sina again in safety about four o'clock, and I think I 
never felt more bruised and tired than when I dis- 
mounted, and entering our carriage threw myself back 
in it; yet I am glad I went, for it is a thing to be 
done once in your life. Sometimes people go on don- 
keys. 

" Those few lines I wrote on the smoking mountain, 
keep, and let me see them when I get back to America. 
It w^ill recall Vesuvius to me more vividly. 

" I have been to see the buried cities of Herculaneum 
and Pompeii, which, particularly the latter, interested 
me very much ; it was a sad interest too, to see the 
ruined walls, roofless houses, and silent streets of the 
once gay, rich, and elegant Pompeii. The scenes in 
Bulwer's ' Last Days of Pompeii,' recurred forcibly to 
my mind on visiting the city. No doubt you have 
read the book. Do you remember Diomed^s banquet in 
the second volume ? I have been through the rooms 
where it was given, and they are richly paved with 
mosaic, though very small, as all the Pompeian rooms 

15* 



174 MEMOIR OF 

are. Diomed, you should know, is an historical per- 
sonage ; so are Sallust and Pansa, whose houses we 
saw ; in the house of the former is an elegant marble 
floor. But all the statues, vases, utensils, and articles of 
every description, have been removed to Naples, and 
are in the museum, where we have seen them ; they are 
very curious and interesting. 

" The amphitheatre at Pompeii is almost perfect, and 
as I stepped through the now deserted arena, it seemed 
as if I could see the combats which are described in 
Bulwer's book. The streets are paved with lava, and 
on them you can see the marks of the Pompeian char- 
iot-wheels. 

" Pompeii was buried under a shower of ashes and 
pumice-stone to the depth of about fifteen feet ; Hercu- 
laneum was buried under lava to the depth of fifty or 

sixty feet These cities are just as the eruption 

left them seventeen hundred years ago, and some build- 
ings are in very good preservation. They have inter- 
ested me more than any thing I have seen since I came 
to Europe. We have seen many things which I have 
not room to mention ; every day we go to see some- 
thing, and shall soon have finished our survey of 
Naples; in a few days we shall proceed to the Eternal 
City." 

Journal. " 12th October, 1841. — We did not go out 
early this morning anywhere, for we were so tired and 
bruised after our excursion to Vesuvius that we could 

hardly move We took a drive this afternoon to 

Portici, to see the Royal Palace there. This is very 
extensive and very richly furnished. We saw portraits 
of Napoleon, his mother, and brother Joseph ; also of 
Murat, king of Naples. There was one curious room, 



ANNE GORIIAM EVERETT. 175 

lined almost wholly with mirrors, and where there 
were not mirrors, the walls were porcelain, ornamented 
with grotesque figm'es of monkeys, etc. The floor was 
mosaic, taken from Pompeii, and the pedestal of the 
centre-table consisted of little statues taken also from 
Pompeii. The table itself was wood petrified, and very 
beautiful. The floor of another room is marble, taken 
from Herculaneum. We also walked in the gardens 
called ' Le Delizie,' but which are not remarkably hand- 
some. The grove is pretty." 

" 13th. — Soon after we were up this morning it be- 
gan to rain very violently, and the Scirocco recom- 
menced in all its force. We have not been able to go 
out all day, but have been obliged to keep close in the 
house. I have, however, been able to do a great deal 
of work and reading, and to finish a letter to L. Our 
landlord's little daughter also brought us in some dis- 
sected maps which amused E. and S. and in fact, their 
sisters also, very much." 

" 14th. — We have seen a great many things to-day, 
for as it was pleasant we started on our excursion. 
We drove through the Grotto Posilipo, as far as 
Pozzuoli, anciently Puteoli, an old Greek city, and 
famous for its warm baths. Here we took a guide, and 
went to see the Solfatara, a sort of plain, covered with 
hillocks of volcanic sulphur, which is then boiled to be 
fit for use. The whole region is volcanic, and the 
ground hollow under our feet. There is a little smoke 
issuing from one part, and when Vesuvius has an 
eruption the smoke stops. It is certainly very curious, 
but the fumes of the sulphur were unpleasant. We 
then went to inspect the old Amphitheatre of Puteoli, 
which is not in nearly so good preservation as that of 
Pompeii, for the seats can hardly be discerned; but it is 



176 MEMOIR OF 

large, and our guide said, could hold forty -five thousand 
persons. 

" We next saw the Temple of Jupiter Serapis of 
which the fine marble floor is now covered with water, 
because the sea comes up higher than formerly ; we 
went round it on stepping-stones. It appears by cer- 
tain corrosions, made by a shell-fish, far up on the 
columns, that the sea was once several feet higher than 
it is at present ; but having once subsided, it is now 
rising again. Some of the splendid columns of this 
temple have been taken to ornament the Royal Palace 
at Caserta, which I think is a pity. 

" We then drove to Cumse, the residence of Virgil's 
sybil, whom ^neas visited. Here it unfortunately be- 
gan to rain, but not much. We went to the top of a 
high hill, and saw a fine prospect. We saw the place 
where Scipio Africanus was buried. We could not go 
into the Sybil's cave, because the bottom was covered 
with water, and we should have had to go in on 
horses. 

" On leaving Cumae we went to the promontory of 
Cape Misenum, said to be named for the pilot of ^neas, 
who was lost there. Here we saw a ruined sort of 
cellar under ground, which w^as once a cistern to supply 
the Roman army with water. It is immense, and very 
carious. Then we went into a subterranean place, 
called the ' Prisons of Nero,' very dark and dismal look- 
ing, when we had lighted torches. I think I should not 
have liked to be one of Nero's prisoners. From Cape 
Misenum, where Nero had his mother murdered, there 
is a fine prospect. You see the islands of Nesida and 
Procida, and Puteoli opposite. On returning, we 
stopped to see the ruins of Bai, which are an old 
temple of Venus, and a temple of Hercules, where 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 177 

there is a very fine echo, which we tried several 
times. 

" At a place called Nero's Baths, there is a subter- 
ranean spring of hot water, which will boil an egg in 
two minutes. A man went down with an egg in a 
bucket and brought up some water, panting with 
heat. Papa and I ate the egg. A great many 
persons afflicted with rheumatism come here to take 
the baths. 

" The rain continued at intervals all day, but not 
violently. We were much troubled with beggars all 
day, who held up old bits of marble and little stones to 
sell, of which we bought two or three. We, however, 
arrived safely at home about half past five." 

" 15th. — We have now about finished our survey of 
Naples and its environs. I walked in the Villa Reale 
with the bambini this morning, and we went as far as 
the little temples, one of which contains Virgil's, the 
other Tasso's bust; both modern. But the cautious 
policy of the King of Naples prevents people from en- 
tering them I The rest of the day I employed myself 
in reading and sewing as usual." 

" 16th. — We have been busy all day packing our 
trunks, to start early to-morrow morning. About one 
o'clock we went with papa to see a group of statuary, 
which Mr. Persico, an Italian sculptor, is making for 
the capitol at Washington. The group consists of Co- 
lumbus, who is represented as having just landed in the 
new world, and near him an Indian girl, in a posture of 
wonder. The figure of Columbus is yet only sketched 
out in marble. We saw here a bust of papa, taken in 
Boston fom' years ago. 

" We received intelligence to-day that papa had been 
appointed Minister to England ; we shall have to go im- 



178 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

mediately to London, and must, therefore, make a short 
and hurried visit to Rome. I am sorry for this, but any 
visit is better than none. So good-by to beautiful 
Naples, where we have passed so pleasant a fortnight, 
and seen so many agreeable things." 



CHAPTER XII. 



A WEEK IN^ ROME — ADIEU TO ITALY — RETURN TO PARIS 
TO "la BELLE FRANCE" LAST LETTER FROM PARIS. 



" I see the beauty that thy skies at mom and evening wear, 
And hear tlie soft and melting strains, that float upon thy air; 
The wind steals o'er me, laden with the incense of thy flowers, 
And I gaze upon thy lofty domes and on thy marble towers." 



Three days of land travel, a fatiguing, though inter- 
esting journey, brought our party to Rome. " Here we 
are at last in the Eternal City ; the city of Cicero, 
Csesar, and the Emperors ; the capital of the world ! " 
Such w^as Anne's exclamation on entering Rome ; her 
enthusiasm seemed only to increase, as she saw more 
of the city. " Alas," she says, " we must hurry to Eng- 
land, and have but little time for this delightful city." 

Her journal, given for five successive days, will not 
be found tedious. 

" 20th October. — After breakfast this morning we 
went out to see the city, having no time to lose. We 
have seen a great deal to-day, beginning, of course, with 
St. Peter's, the grandest church in the world. As you 
approach it, it does not strike you as very large, but as 
you walk round its immense circuit, you perceive its 
great size. The whole walls are lined with rich mar- 
bles, some of it ancient yellow, which is very beautiful. 



180 MEMOIR OF 

but it is not known where it was found. Some of the 
pillars were taken from ancient temples. The statues 
on some of the sepulchres of the popes are wrought by 
Canova, and are very fine. He made a tomb for the 
Pretender and his brother, who died here. The pictures 
in mosaic, copies of the great masters, are admirably 
done ; there are many of them in the church. There is 
a statue in bronze of St. Peter, and one foot has been 
so much handled and kissed that it is worn bright. 
The sacristy has some good pictures in it. The great 
vestibule of St. Peter's has a fresco by Giotto, and some 
ancient columns, and is as large as a good-sized church. 
It has one door called the sacred door, which is walled 
up, and every twenty-five years is opened by blows of 
the hammer, the pope giving the first blow. The last 
opening was in 1825. The whole church is indeed 
grand and magnificent, and should be seen several times 
to be enjoyed. 

" After leaving it, we stepped into the place where 
they make the mosaic pictures. They are very curious. 
The frame consists of bars of solid iron, over which is 
put clay, and into the clay, the mosaic stones are set, 
copying the pattern. It takes three years to make a 
tolerably sized figure, but though it looks rough at first, 
when it is polished it has a beautiful appearance. The 
mosaic stones consist of coarse glass, and there are 
eighteen thousand different shades of color. The mo- 
saic that is worn is made of finer glass. 

" This is all we saw in the morning. In the after- 
noon we drove out to see some of the ruins of the an- 
cient city. The different convulsions that afflicted an- 
cient Rome, have so choked up the old city, that it is 
quite below the modern city, and has to be exca- 
vated. The old Forum is fifteen feet deep now, and is 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 181 

filled with broken columns. In it you see the remains 
of the old Via Sacra, which goes under the arch of 
Septimius Severus. This arch is a fine specimen of 
ancient work, and well preserved. 

" The ancient Tarpeian Rock, which was originally a 
hundred feet high, and from which criminals were 
thrown, is now only twenty feet high. The arches of 
Titus and Constantine are still entire ; the has reliefs on 
the former represent the victories of Titus over the Jews. 
We entered the Coliseum and ascended its ruined 
walls. From the top there is a fine prospect of the 
Palatine, Quirinal, Viminal, and Coelian hills, the ruins 
of the temple of Venus, and of the baths of Titus. 
The edifice is in a very ruined state, having been sadly 
pulled to pieces in the middle ages, to build other build- 
ings. In modern times they have put little chapels in 
the arena, with pictures representing Scripture scenes. 
These, though well in their place, greatly injure the 
effect of this heathen amphitheatre. Many of the an- 
cient steps are still quite perfect, others very much de- 
cayed. It must have been a superb edifice when entire. 
The French excavated a great deal of it. 

" On our way home we saw the remaining columns 
of the temple of Antoninus and Faustina, which were 
very deeply buried ; and also, part of a temple of 
Romulus and Remus, of which the door is really an- 
tique. These are the outlines of what we have seen 
to-day ; the details it is impossible to write. Interest- 
ing as Rome is, it makes you feel a little sad, to see all 
these ruins of departed greatness. It is quite different 
from the gay city of Naples." 

" 21st October. — This morning we again went forthj, 
taking mamma with us, who being unwell yesterday^ 
did not go out. We passed by the Fontana Trevi, a 

16 



182 MEMOIE OP 

beautiful fountain, dashing out in three streams, very 
gracefully, with statues all around it. The fountain 
played in ancient times. Then we went to the Forum, 
Coliseum, and through the several arches, that mamma 
might see them. As we drove along, we saw the ruins 
of the palace of the Caesars on the Palatine hill, also 
the ruins of the temples of Hercules, Diana, Venus, and 
the Temple of Peace. Then we passed through the 
arch of Constantine, and drove outside the walls to see 
the Pyramid of Caius Cestius, which is in excellent 
preservation, and overgrown with ivy. We also went 
to the Pantheon, which was originally built by Agrippa 
the favorite of Augustus, and now turned into a Chris- 
tian church. It is a large building, with beaatiful an- 
cient yellow columns ; the tomb of Raphael is in this 
church. The roof was originally covered with plates 
of bronze, taken at the battle of Actium, from the beaks 
of Antony's ships ; but part of the bronze was taken by 
Pope Urban VIII. to make the four twisted pillars that 
support the baldachino in St. Peter's ; the rest of the 
bronze was cast into cannon for the castle of St. 
Angelo. The Vandals carried away the bronze doors 
of this church, but it is otherwise still perfect. In driv- 
ing along we saw the Temple of Vesta, a pretty little 
building with Corinthian pillars, which is a favorite 
subject for mosaic work. Also, we saw the Theatre of 
Marcellus, which is now turned into a modern palace. 
We saw many other ruins, too numerous to mention. 

" In the afternoon we went to see the Museum of the 
Vatican, which adjoins St. Peters. It is truly an im- 
mense museum, but we contrived to go through it aU 
in about two hours ; very hastily, of course. There is 
a great quantity of ancient statues, bass-reliefs, and in- 
scriptions, dug up at different places. Here we saw 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 183 

the Apollo Belvedere, found at Terracina, of which we 
have a copy at home ; also several beautiful Venuses, 
Dianas, and Minervas. In one room there were all 
sorts of marble animals, dogs, boars, stags, etc., all 
beautifully done, as indeed all ancient works are. 
There are a great many beautiful vases of ancient red 
marble and porphyry, and some vases of spotted marble. 
The Egyptian antiquities are monstrous, ill-shaped 
things, but curious. One of the immense vases of red 
marble was from the tomb of Helena, the mother of 
Constantine. The number of ancient statues is won- 
derful ; and they are all arranged with great taste, on 
beautiful pedestals of marble, and many ancient pillars 
of marble dispersed around, which were found at the 
Villa of Adrian at Tivoli, where more antiquities have 
been found than at all other places. 

" The picture gallery in the Vatican is not very large, 
but all the pictures in it are chefs (Tceiwre. There are 
a good many of Guido, and some of Raphael. The 
* Transfiguration ' of Raphael, is indeed very fine ; 
though I think so many figures in the foregi'ound take 
away from the effect of the main subject. But the 
coloring is exceedingly rich, and the expressions beauti- 
ful. Opposite to it is the Communion of St. Jerome, 
by Domenichino, which by some is considered as fine as 
the Transfiguration. But this picture we had not time 
to examine, for there was a cry that the pope was to 
pass through this room, and everybody had to go out. 
I do not know what harm the pope thought we should 
do him, and after all, it was a false alarm. 

" There are a good many rooms painted in fresco by 
Raphael and his scholars, which are very fine. I should 
like to have examined things a little more closely, but 
we had not time. 



184 MEMOIR OF 

" We then stepped into St. Peter's to let mamma see 
it. I liked it better than even the first time. Under the 
baldachino^ or canopy, is a kneeling statue of Pius VII. 
by Canova, and opposite to it is the place where the 
Catholics think half of St. Peter and half of St. Paul 
are buried. The other halves, they think, are in the 
church of St. Paul, outside the walls of the city, and 
that they were exchanged by the two churches in the 
middle ages. In returning home, we drove by the 
Castle of St. Angelo, once the Mausoleum of the Em- 
peror Adrian, and now a strong fortress." 

" 22d October. — Papa, C, E., and I started this 
morning to go up to the top of the cupola of St. Peter's. 
We passed through the church, and then ascended over 
four hundred steps. It was very fatiguing to be sure, 
but we stopped at different stages, and looked down 
the dome, and by the small size of the people below, 
you saw how big the church is. At the top of the 
cupola is a very fine prospect of Rome and the adjacent 
country. At last we came to the steps leading to the 
ball, and it was some time before I would consent to go 
up into it, for the only passage was up a perpendicular 
ladder ; but I am glad I went at last, for it is something 
to say you have been in the ball of St. Peter's. We 
only staid a minute, for it is dark and hot. We 
descended rapidly, and soon reached the church again. 
On the walls of the staircase to the dome, are the 
names of royal personages who have at different times 
ascended. There are in all, from the ground to the top, 
about five hundred and ninety steps. This dome, the 
work of Michelangelo, has some cracks in it, and able 
architects have thought that some time it would fall, 
but it kept up safe to-day. We also descended to the 
subterranean part of the church, which is the old church 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 185 

formerly built by Constantine. It contains the tombs 
of some of the popes, which are covered with statues 
and bass-reliefs of great beauty. Also a little chapel 
richly adorned, where mass is said for St. Peter and St. 
Paul. It was rather damp and we did not stay there" 
long. 

" We then went into the Etruscan museum of the 
Vatican, founded by the present Pope, out of the things 
founded in the excavated Etruscan tombs. The vases 
and tazze^ or cups, are very beautiful. Some had black 
figures on a yellow ground, and others yellow figures on 
a black ground. The former, I believe, are considered the 
most ancient. In the tombs were also found household 
utensils of every sort, and a great deal of rich jewelry, 
the gold ornaments being beautifully wrought. There 
is a model of an ancient Etruscan sepulchre, as it looks 
when opened, with the vases and tazze standing round 
on shelves, and* the sarcophagi for the bodies, which 
were laid down without a coffin. In one room the 
^valls exhibited copies of paintings found in the tombs, 
but they are very stiff, not the least shading or perspec- 
tive, and strange colors, such as blue horses, etc. The 
whole collection is very interesting, and it is wonderful 
to think that these things are the only history of a 
great and warlike people who flourished three thou- 
sand years ago. 

" In the afternoon we went to see the Capitol, built 
on the site of the ancient temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, 
though facing the other way. In the square before it, 
is a bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius on horseback, 
which, before those of the Balbi were found at Hercu- 
laneum, was thought to be the only equestrian statue 
remaining of antiquity. The capitol contains a fine 
museum of statues and pictures. 
16* 



186 MEMOIR OP 

" Among other statues, is the dying Gladiator, which 
is thought so fine, and which is so, certainly in the 
^expression of the face. There is an Antinous, which 
is very fine, also a Faun of great beauty, and a boy in 
bronze, taking a thorn out of his foot, is a sweet little 
.statue. There are also busts of almost all the Roman 
Emperors and Empresses, and a room with busts of 
the philosophers, among them one of Cicero. In 
another apartment are modern busts of distinguished 
men, some of them by Canova, and all put up at his 
expense ; also a very beautiful monument to Canova, 
with his statue on the top, erected by order of Pope 
Leo XII. 

" In the painting gallery are some very fine pictures 
by Guido, and one grand one by Guercino, with a great 
many figures in it. Some fine pictures, too, by Do- 
menichino. There is a very curious thing in the capitol, 
namely, an ancient plan of Rome, found on the floor of 
the temple of Romulus and Remus, and now pieced 
together in many parts. 

" By the time we had seen all this we were tired, and 
•drove home." 

" 23d October. — We went this morning to the Sis- 
tine Chapel in the Vatican, to see the frescoes of Mi- 
chelangelo. The principal of these is the celebrated 
fresco of the Last Judgment. I was disappointed in this ; 
whether .the figures did not suit me, or the coloring, or 
^whether I had formed too high an idea of it, I do not 
know^; but I was disappointed. Michelangelo may 
have more power, but he wants the sweetness, delicacy, 
and a certain feeling of human interest which Raphael 
imparts to his pictures. In this chapel the Pope per- 
forms many ceremonies in Holy week. 

" Next we came to the library of the Vatican, which 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 187 

consists almost wholly of manuscripts. They are 
locked up in cases, but the ceiling and walls are hand- 
somely painted in fresco. We saw some curious old 
manuscripts ; a Greek Bible of the 5th century, a Virgil 
of the same date, and a manuscript, containing some 
of the original letters of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn ; 
and a rewritten manuscript, that is, a work of a Latin 
author erased to make way for a monkish sermon of 
the middle ages, and then the ancient writing brought 
back by a chemical preparation. This manuscript was 
a part of Cicero's ' de Republica,' previously lost. One 
feels indignant at the monks for effacing Cicero^ s writ- 
ings to substitute their own I 

" There are many remains of antiquity in this library; 
some sacred utensils, and other relics taken from 
the Catacombs, where the early Christians used to hold 
their meetings under the city. There are preserved 
here some of the few remains of ancient painting- that 
have come down to us, and they are very interesting, 
though being done without oil, they have not the lustre 
of modern painting. There is a progressive series of 
paintings from Cimabue and Giotto down to the later 
painters, exhibiting a fine view of the advance o:^ the art. 

" We left the library at one, and after luncheon went 
to see the studios of Crawford and Thorwaldsen, — the 
former an American artist, who has been here a few 
years, and has some very beautiful works ; a statue of 
Orpheus, just entering Inferno, and having put Cer- 
berus asleep by the power of his music ; and a group 
of Hebe and Ganymede, very fine ; as yet only in clay. 
He has also some very beautiful bass-reliefs. Every- 
body knows who the celebrated Thorwaldsen is, and 
his works are astonishing in number and beauty. There 
is a group of large statues, consisting of the Saviour 



188 MEMOIR OF 

and the twelve Apostles, of which the marble went to 
Copenhagen, being presented by Thorwaldsen to the 
church, I believe, in which he was baptized. The 
group is very fine, and must have been an immense 
labor. There is another group representing the preach- 
ing of John the Baptist, and his different auditors 
around him, with all sorts of expressions in their atti- 
tudes and looks. There are the old man and baby, 
middle-aged man and young girl, all listening eagerly. 
Some of the bass-reliefs are very beautiful, there is such 
truth and nature in their expression. The statues are 
innumerable, and he has two other studios^ each full. I 
was as much pleased with his works as by any thing I 
have seen in Rome."" 

" 24th October. — We have been visiting several of 
the churches this morning. The first we went to was 
St. John of the Lateran, the Metropolitan Church of 
Rome. The form of this church is sti'ange ; it is all 
cut up into little chapels and passages, which produce 
a singular effect, but the ceiling is very richly gilded. 
In this church the Corsini family have a richly orna- 
mented private chapel, where are the tombs of the 
family. There is a fine piece of sculpture here by Ber- 
nini. In this church they show several relics ; a piece of 
wood which they call the real table of the Last Supper, 
and the curb of a well in the court which they call the 
well of the Samaritan woman. 

" In the church of S. Maria Maggiore, is the chapel of 
the Borghese family, with columns of verd antique, from 
the baths of Diocletian. Indeed, all the churches have 
ancient columns found in the old ruins. In this church, 
the columns of the middle nave are from the Temple 
of Juno, which was near the situation of the modern 
church. The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli is the 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 189 

most interesting we saw, being built on the spot where 
were the baths of Diocletian, and part of the wall is the 
ancient one. The ceiling is the same as that of the old 
baths, only as it was covered with heathen paintings, 
Michelangelo caused it to be whitewashed over. This 
church contains a fresco by Domenichino, which is 
copied in mosaic in St. Peter's. It also contains the 
tomb of Salvator Rosa. The last church we saw was 
the church of St. Peter, in vinculis, or the chains. It is 
built over the ruins of the baths of Titus, and in it is a 
chair found in those baths. It also contains a statue of 
Moses, by Michelangelo, which he made for the tomb 
of Julius II. I like it better than any work of his I 
ever saw ; there is great power and strength in it. This 
church has, what are supposed to be, the real chains 
of St. Peter and St. Paul, from which it derives its 
name ; also a fine picture by Guido, and one by Do- 
menichino. 

" In the course of our drive we went to the top of 
Quirinal hill, now called Monte Cavallo, on account of 
two marble horses there, said to be wrought by Phidias 
and Praxiteles. Beside the horses is a beautiful foun- 
tain, and between them an Egyptian obelisk, one of 
the many in Rome. They were brought by the ancient 
Emperors from Egypt, found in modern times among 
the ruins, and again erected by different popes. 

" At half past tAvo we went and took a drive on the 
Monte Pincio, out of the Porta del Popolo. It is a very 
pretty place, and there is an ancient obelisk there set 
up by Pope Pius VII. We also drove to the Villa 
Borghese, which is a beautiful country-seat ; its owner, 
the Prince Borghese, is one of the richest noblemen in 
Rome. On entering the villa, which is shown to stran- 
gers, we were told that E., who was with us, must not 



190 MEMOIR OF 

go in, as no boys were permitted to enter. So as E. 
was turned away, none of us went in. I cannot im- 
agine what harm they thought E. could have done, he 
being with papa ; but so it was." 

The next morning she wrote : " This is our last morn- 
ing in Rome. Oh ! how I wish we were to stay longer, 
but we must go. If I ever can I will come to Rome 
again, and let it be in Holy week, for that is the most 
favorable time to see the city. Meantime, adieu to 
what was once the queen of cities, and which, even 
from the little I have seen of it, appears to deserve the 
name I " 

On the way back to France she was gratified with a 
distant view of Genoa, built on the side of a hill and 
sloping down to the water's edge. " The city," she 
writes, " certainly merits its appellation of ' Genova la 
Superba,' and as it was the birthplace of Columbus, I 
am sorry I could not enter it." Here, also, she took leave 
of Italy, still feeling, as she writes to a friend, " that it 
does not seem quite right to pass the summer in Italy, 
and then on the approach of winter, to leave this deli- 
cious, sunny region to go to the cold, damp climate of 
England." 

" 29th. — We left Genoa at half past two, and turned 
our prow to Marseilles. We have now taken our last 
look of Italy, for I do not know how long ; but I really 
hope to see it again, for I have passed nearly a year 
very pleasantly in it. One cannot, indeed, approve the 
character of the generality of the Italians. They are 
good-natured it is true, and generally polite; but not 
really honest. They do not actually take your money 
from your pocket, but they try to impose upon you, and 
sometimes make you lose your time, patience, and 
temper. There are*, of course, exceptions to this. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 191 

Bat adieu to them, and their delicious, sunny, lovely 
climate." 

Some annoyance was experienced in their journey, by 
the dilatoriness of the captain of the steamer in sailing 
from Civita Vecchia for Genoa. It would not be 
noticeable except for the characteristic emphasis with 
which Anne says : " We have nothing to do, but to 
resign om'selves to the loss of a ivhole claij^ and employ 
our time as best we can." Always prompt herself, she 
could not bear the want of the same promptness in 
others ; and afterwards, in commenting upon their slow 
passage to Marseilles, she adds : " We have the addi- 
tional trouble of reflecting that yesterday the captain 
idled away two hours and a half at Genoa, after the 
time of starting." 

From Marseilles they started in their travelling car- 
riage, by post, and encountered no delays in the jour- 
ney of eight days. " We entered Paris in gi'eat style, 
with two postilions, and every thing, as we drove 
along, looked very natural. On going to the Hotel 
Wagi'am we found a note to mamma from Mrs. T. say- 
ing she had engaged an apartment for us, as mamma 
had requested she would do. We drove immediately 
to it ; it is in the Rue de Rivoli, and very convenient, 
though small. But we do not mind that, for we shall 
only stay a month, w^hile papa goes to London, and 
gets a house ; and then he will come back and take us 
over. It is a rather cold season to go to England, but 
that cannot be helped. We are so tired to-night, 
that we have unpacked nothing, but shall go to bed 
early." 

A month in Paris passed rapidly, in seeing old friends 
and doing the shopping for a winter in Rngland ; still, 
any thing like an unsettled feeling was Anne's aversion. 



192 MEMOIR OF 

and she looked forward with a little impatience to their 
established home in England. 

The evening before their departure, she WTote : " A 
long adieu to Paris ; I do not know when we may see 
it again; but I have passed my time very agreeably 
here, and shall always think of it with pleas^ure." Her 
only sister and oldest brother were to be left in Paris ; 
and it is not surprising, that she had no sooner left 
Paris, than, " owing to some strange revulsion of feel- 
ing," she wished herself back again. She had no 
sooner written herself in " Old England," than she is 
obliged to say : " Somehow or other I felt very home- 
sick this morning, and wished myself back in Paris a 
hundred times." 

The following letter is given as her last from Paris, 
albeit it is but a lively recapitulation of what has been 
already gathered from her journal. 

[To Mrs. P. C. Brooks, Jr.] 

" Paris, 14tli November, 1841. 

" Dear Aunt S. — .... Now T wTite once more 
from Paris, where we arrived a few days ago. Since C. 
\^a'ote, we have visited Rome and Naples, both delight- 
ful and fascinating cities, and more interesting from old 
associations than Florence is. We have ascended to 
the top of Mount Vesuvius, and descended to the depth 
of Herculaneum ; stood in the gilt ball on the top of 
St. Peter's Church, and visited the Coliseum. We had 
charming weather for our excursion to Rome and 
Naples, and though in the month of October, it was as 
warm as our New England June. 

" We had a disagreeable passage in the steamboat 
from Italy to France, and a most fatiguing journey to 



I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 193 

Paris. We went as fast as post-horses and postilions 
could carry us, but when we drove into Paris, we were 
almost worn out. We are very pleasantly situated here 
in a small apartment, but large enough for a short resi- 
dence, as we go to England in a month. Papa goes to 
London in a few days to find a house, and then comes 
back for us. Meanwhile mamma and I are obliged to 
run round and get us some new dresses, hats, etc. 
Young ladies, this winter, do not wear light-colored 
hats ; they wear dark brown velvet ones, so 1 suppose I 
must have one, though I should greatly prefer a light 
one. Also, they wear velvet mantillas, (not cloaks,) 
lined with silk. The fashionable color for every thing 
this winter is dark purple ; merino dresses are trimmed 
with little gold buttons up the front and sleeves. Black 
watered silks are very much a la mode, so if you still 
have the one mamma sent you, you will be wholly in 
the fashion ; only you must have the sleeves made tight, 
for nobody now ever wears any sleeves except those 
made tight to the arm. Our court dresses we must get 
in England, for the French and English courts are so 
different, that what would do here would not probably 
do there. I have given you a long chapter on dress, 
and forgot to say what I meant to about collars ; they 
are worn very close in the throat, with the inside hand- 
kerchief below in large plaits. 

" Since we have been here, the weather has been 
cold, wet, and disagreeable. We have really suffered 
from cold since we left delicious, sunny Italy ; but they 
tell us it will not be much colder than this all winter in 
England, and there they have excellent coal fires. I 
shall rejoice to see a coal fire once more ; I have not 
seen one since I left America. 

" We have not had any letters for so long a time 
17 



194 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

from home, that we hardly know what to thhik of it. 
We expected to find them awaiting us in Paris, and 
there were several from papa's relations, but none from 
grandpapa's family. 1 hope we shall receive some soon, 
by the next Boston steamer. It will be convenient on 
one account to live in England; that we shall be able 
to receive and send letters so soon. But the climate I 
that we all dread, and probably more than most people 
would, because we have been living so long in a warm 
one. But we must keep ourselves as warm as we can. 
Indeed, 1 believe the climate is more foggy than cold, for 
a gentleman to-day was telling us, that there were often 
days in England so dark that you burnt candles all day 
long, and that people, in the thick fog, often stepped 
into the river, not knowing where they went. 

" I suppose you have left Medford and come to town 
by this time. It is indeed rather late to be in the coun- 
try. We saw by the papers that Thanksgiving is to 
be the twenty-fifth of this month. What a pleasant 
time you will have then ; I should really like to join 
you ! We kept Thanksgiving to the best of our ability 
in Florence, last year, and I dare say we shall do so 
this year. 

" I believe I must bid you good-by now, my dear 
aunt, for I wish to send this letter by the steamship, 
and have not time to make it longer. Give my love to 
all the family. Your affectionate niece, 

" Anne G. Everett." 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Arrival ix London — residence in upper grosvenor street — 

FIRST impressions — ORDER OF LIFE — CORRESPONDENCE. 



'* She was a flower 
New opened, and no living thing had left 
Print of the world^s pollution." 



The journey of five days, from Paris to London, had 
been one of extreme fatigue, which could be alleviated 
by little enjoyment in the month of December. In 
crossing the English Channel, Anne yielded herself cap- 
tive, for the first time, to the power of the sea. During 
the passage of nearly four hours, she lay in her berth 
suffering greatly. Their arrival in London was, there- 
fore, a matter of no little satisfaction. 

A description of their new hojue in Upper Grosvenor 
street, is given in her first letter to her sister at Paris. 

[To C. B. E.] 

" London, 17th December, 1841. 

" Dear C, — We have just received your letter of the 
9th, 10th, and 11th December to mamma; but as she 
wrote you a long letter the day after our arrival here, I 
thought I would answer it. We are rejoiced to hear 



196 MEMOIR OF 

you are happy and pleased with your situation. I 
wrote a letter to E. when mamma wTote to you, describ- 
ing our journey, so I need say no more about that, 
as doubtless he showed you the letter. Also I hope 
you received the letter we sent by Thomas from Bou- 
logne. I really think you are better off than we are, 
for you are in a place you know something of; in 
short, you are at home in Paris, and we are strangers in 
the vast city of London. Oh I how homesick I was 
when we first came, and the feeling has not yet wholly 
worn off. I wished myself back in Paris a hundred 
times, and wondered I ever could have left it. Every 
thing seemed so strange ; the house, streets, people, 
manner of life, and every thing else ; and then not a 
soul to speak to, after my pleasant companions of the 
last month. But people tell us that we should not 
give way to this feeling ; that when we know London 
more, we shall like it better. It is very dull here now; 
almost every one is in the country for the Christmas 
holidays, and the gay season does not begin till after 
the meeting of Parliament, the 3d of February. 

" Our house is all that papa described it to us, on his 
return from London. It is very shabbily, and in many 
things, scantily furnished, and has a very rusty look. 
It is tolerably convenient, and has a good many bureaus 
and wardrobes, but they are all for folding, none for 
hanging dresses. I have a very good room on one side 
of the house, with a great many conveniences in it, and 
I have a fire in it, so that I can sit and read and write 
very comfortably. The nursery is over the drawing- 
room in the third story ; it is a large, warm, and cheer- 
ful room, and W. has been very well, and in good spirits 
since we came. Mrs. A. has called upon us, and her 
daughter appears to be a very nice girl; I have only 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 197 

seen her once, but then I spent an hour at her house, 
and had a very pleasant conversation 

" Papa has been presented to the Queen. She is now 
at Windsor Castle, and invited papa there to deliver his 
credentials, and then to dine and pass the night, which 
he did. The Queen and Prince Albert were very amia- 
ble and polite to him, and he had a very pleasant visit. 
He saw the state-rooms of the Castle, which they are 
now fitting up for the christening of the Prince of Wales ; 
also, he saw the splendid service of silver gilt for a hun- 
dred and twenty persons ; plates, dishes, candelabra, and 
all, I do not know when mamma and I are to be pre- 
sented ; perhaps not till after the meeting of parliament. 
When Ave have been, then we shall make a business of 
leaving cards on all the ambassador's and minister's 
ladies ; the cards only, are to be left ; you do not, 
at the first visit, go in. 

" I give S. a lesson every morning in French, arith- 
metic, and so forth, and he is a very good boy 
about learning. I also study and read myself a good 
deal." .... 

Writing to a friend, at Paris, she says still further of 
their situation : " My room is not so handsomely fur- 
nished, and does not look so much like a parlor as yours 
does, but it is very comfortable, and has every con- 
venience. I don't know whether you know where 
Upper Grosvenor street is, but it is one of the best 
situations in London ; and its vicinity to Hyde Park 
makes it very agreeable for us. We take our morning 
walk there, and at the hour we walk a beautiful band 
of music plays. Regent's Park is also said to be very 
pleasant, but not so fashionable as Hyde Park. I 
should not care for that, if we were near the former, 
but as it is distant, I have not yet seen it. 

17* 



198 MEMOIR OF 

" We are invited to a dinner-party the day after to- 
morrow, at a quarter before seven. This is rather late, 
and the most fashionable hour is eight 

^' Papa, as I wrote to C, has been presented to the 
'Queen, but mamma and I shall not probably be till the 
first drawing-room in February, when I may be able to 
give you some amusing particulars about my train and 
.nodding plumes. I dare say I shall be frightened to 
death, though I ought not to be," .... 

Of London she wrote still further : " London is very 
different from Paris. In the first place it is twice as 
large ; it is perfectly immense ; twenty times as large 
as Boston. Then the streets are broader and better 
paved. But there is a constant atmosphere of coal 
smoke, and sometimes such dense, smoky fogs that you 
must light candles at noonday in order to pursue your 
work." 

For the first few weeks after their arrival in England, 
an unaccountable dark shadow seemed to rest over the 
spirit of dear Anne. Was it a presage of the future ? 
She had made three homes before in strange lands, 
adapting herself with wonderful ease, at once to climate, 
language, and people. Why, in a country so nearly 
allied to her own, should such gloom overshadow her, 
where, too, she had reason preeminently to anticipate 
pleasure and gayety ? 

But this cloud passed away as she became at home 
in London, and made her debut in society. Yet amid 
all the excitement of court scenes and the brilliant circle 
to which she was introduced, the beautiful simplicity of 
Anne's character remains undimmed. In the sense of 
the world, she was never " gay." She was yet " subject 
to her parents." A routine of regular study occupied 
her morning hours, and reading and sewing daily en- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 199 

gaged a portion of her thoughts and time. She scru- 
pulously reserved time for out-door exercise ; having 
a partiality for the fresh air like the little child's, who 
asked to leave the nursery and play out-doors ; " for he 
liked the air just as it came down from the sky." In 
this walk she was always accom])anied by her father, 
when his duties would permit She says : " We never 
omit our daily walks in the park ; neither rain, snow, or 
cold, keep us in ; we brave all weathers. I put on my 
clogs, blanket-shawl, and old ch'ess, and thus equipped, 
can defy the elements," 

She still as heretofore gave but little time to dress. 
In reading her record of a day before a court-ball, there 
is nothing in the different employment of her time 
which discloses that such an event is in prospect. 
Many a country lady, going out to her long afternoon 
visit, " to tea," expends more time upon her dress than 
was devoted to it by Anne before going to the Queen's 
drawing-room. And how often is she found at evening 
enjoying the fine paintings which adorn the walls, 
rather than -captivated with the brilliant display and 
ceremony around her ! After returning from such a 
scene, she can write : " We took off the feathers and 
ball-dresses we wore to the ceremony, and sat down 
quietly." She deprecates in strong terms the lateness 
of the hour for evening entertainments ; yet she also 
says : " After such an evening party I did not rise any 
later this morning, for I never do that, let me sit up as 
late as I may." 

Anne's pure spirit rose above this external show which 
surrounded her, looking upon it with more than indiffer- 
ence, almost positive disrelish, seeking still the improve- 
ment of her heart and mind, as the higher good, " the 



200 MEMOIR OF 

merchandise of which is better than the merchandise of 
silver, and the gain thereof than fine gold." 

The history of Anne's winter in London must be 
given in her numerous letters ; all of which are of so 
much interest, developing in different ways her charac- 
ter, as well as events around her, that the difficulty lies 
in making a choice. 

Her letters to her brother at Paris reveal so sweetly 
an older sister's gentle care and love, that a few extracts 
will be taken from them. 

" . . . . I suppose you are pleased with your school. 
1 hope you will study hard, and learn French very fast, 
and Italian and German too, if possible. You must 
write to us sometimes, and let us hear how you get 
on, and whether you have made any pleasant acquaint- 
ances 

"... T am very sorry you were so unwell as to be 
confined to your room, and hope you will take care not 
to expose yourself to cold. Wrap up well when you 
go out, for you know how easily you take cold, and the 
climate of France is very damp. Also, pray take care 
of your eyes^ and not write in the evening, if you can 
help it. I say this, my dear E., not because 1 want to 
dictate, but because I thought it might be useful to you, 
as you are separated from the family, and might not 
always think to take care of yourself .... Though 
I love to receive your letters, yet if you have not much 
time to write do not hurry yourself to answer this. 
Good-by, ray dear little brother; we all send our love 
to you and C." 

" .... I have not received a letter from you for 
some time, but I have concluded you were too busy to 
write. I hope you study very hard, considering how 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 201 

much money papa is paying for you, and that you read 
as many French books as you can, and as few English. 
You will have plenty of time to read English books, 
you know, when you come over here." .... 

As the oldest daughter, her attention and interest in 
the welfare and progress of all the younger members of 
the family, was ever most lovely, gentle, and disinter- 
ested. 

" London, 10th January, 1842. 

" My dear Sister, — I wrote to you not long since, 
and have had no answer ; but concluding you may be 
too busy to write, I thought I would write again. We 
have gone on pretty much the same since I wrote last 
week, for at present there is no great variety in our 
lives. It is very cold here at present, but we contrive 
to keep ourselves comfortable by walking fast when out- 
doors, and by keeping close by the fire when in the 

house We have at last been to Mrs. M., the 

great court dress-maker, and she is a very nice person. 
I must tell you a little of her history, for it is singular. 
She was lady's maid in a family in Scotland, and mar- 
ried the butler of the family. He turned out badly 
and treated her very ill ; so she had to leave her place, 
having several children, and live in a garret. There 
she supported them and her husband by making flannel 
waistcoats, at sixpence apiece. She made a great 
many friends, who were kind to her, and by degrees, 
she learnt the trade of a dress-maker and rose to her 
present eminence. She has now been thirty years the 
favorite court dress-maker, and her taste is unques- 
tioned. Lady W., who told us about her, said she was 
an excellent woman, that when her brother died, and 
left seven children, she took them, and brought them up. 



202 MEMOIR OF 

We have engaged her to make our dresses for the first 
drawiDg-room. Mamma's is to be a velvet train, over 
a white watered silk, or perhaps, a white satin. Mine 
is to be a white tulle, over plain white silk, a white 
watered silk train, (not lined at all,) and any colored 
flowers I like. 

" We are going to dine next Friday with Mrs. R., 
who is the niece of Mrs. W. We were asked ten days 
beforehand, so I suppose it is to be a great dinner. I 
shall wear my velvet spencer, and a white muslin skirt, 
with, fourteen tucks, each about an inch wide. 

" We passed the other evening at Mrs. W's. First, 
coffee, with brown svg-ar (which is the custom here) 
was handed round, and then about twenty minutes 
afterwards tea. A young gentleman there told me of a 
new and curious mode of skating now in fashion here. 
He said as there was so little genuine ice, that there 
was a sort of white substance, soft, which was strewed 
over the floor of a room, and which soon hardened and 
became slippery, so that people could skate on it. He 
also said that there is to be a regular building for this 
amusement, and fitted up to represent winter scenery, 
snowy mountains, and landscapes. 

" We shall probably have letters from America in 
less than a week, and shall not fail to inform you of 

their contents How is E. now? Take good 

care of him, and don't let him get ill. I believe 1 must 
say good-by, with love from everybody to everybody." 

[To the same.] 

" London, IGtli January, 1842. 

" My DEi\R C, — I received a letter from you last 
week, dated the 7th January, and since then mamma 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 203 

has received one dated the 10th. We are glad to hear 
you continue well and happy. You did not mention 
E. in your last letters ; but as ' no news is good news,' 
I shall conclude he is well, 

" We have been reading aloud lately Cooper's last 
new novel, the ' Deerslayer,' and it is so interesting I 
The Deerslayer, the hero, is the same person who^ 
figures as the ' Scout ' in the Mohicans, the ' Leather- 
stocking ' in the ' Pioneers ' and the ' Pathfinder.' After- 
we had finished ' Deerslayer,' we liked it so much, that 
we procured the ' Prairie,' by Cooper, which contains- 
the closing scenes of this remarkable hero, and where 
he is called the ' Trapper/ and is represented as more 
than eighty years old. I advise you to read the 'Deer- 
slayer.' When I was in Paris I saw it lying on Dr. B.'s- 
table, and I dare say he will lend it to you. 

" We went on Friday to a dinner party as I told you_ 
in my last letter we should. Unlike the French dinners^ 
are the English, and not as pleasant. The ladies leave 
the table alone ; the gentlemen remain, as at the Amer- 
ican dinners. They have a practice which we alsa 
have in Boston, but which I never saw on the continent^ 
of asking each other to take wine, which makes every- 
body look so stiff". It also seems to be the custom to 
carve the dishes at table. 

" . . . . I have not yet seen one of the curiosities of 
London, for it is not a very good time of the year to 
begin, and we have time enough before us. Papa ac- 
companies S. and me in our walks whenever he has^ 
time, but he has a great deal of writing to do. Wher^ 
the w^eather gets a little more settled he says he and I 
shall ride on horseback. This will be very pleasant,, 
for Hyde Park is a charming place for equestrian exer- 
cise. 



204 MEM OIK OF 

" .... I have engaged in a new work lately. I am 
making a patchwork bedquilt of pieces of silk, and as 
we have not a great many remnants, I shall soon be in 
want of some. If you could procure me any pieces in 
Paris, of silk, satin, or velvet, I should be very glad. 
Perhaps the dress-makers would give you little bits. I 
suppose the quilt will take me two or three years, but 
that is no matter as it amuses me. I have nearly done 
the muslin collar I brought from Paris to embroider, and 
as soon as my frame comes, I shall begin worsted work. 
Then I read German, and write Italian exercises, and 
when our books come from Italy I shall read Latin and 
Goldoni ; so my time is fully occupied, as I dare say 
yours is." 

[To the same.] 

" London, 31st January, 1842. 

" Deae C, — I received your letters of the 25th Jan- 
uary by Mr. L. ; you must have thought it strange to 
have received no letter from me for some time, but the 
truth is this : I wrote a letter to you on the 23d, mean- 
ing to send it the 25th, by the English Ambassador's 
bag. But the 25th being the day for the christening of 
the Prince of Wales, the bag did not go, nor my epistle 
either. So papa gave that, and some others, to Mr, 

, the American Minister to Vienna, whom I dare 

say you have seen. He did not start till the 27th ; 
when you received the letters they must have been old. 

" . . . . Our chests, boxes, etc., arrived the other day 
as you have heard, from Leghorn, and among the other 
things we opened, we found the stone fruit we bought 
upon the ' Lungo I'Arno,' in ' Firenze la bella,' all but 
the two stone figs ; where do you suppose they are ? 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 205 

In the Marseilles trunks, I suppose, which, by the way, 
have reached London, though they are still at the cus- 
tom-house. 

" The ' Assistant Minister at the Court of St. James ' * 
was much pleased with your letter to him, and more 
especially the direction to it; it quite elated him, and I 
believe he is now answering it. 

" I am delighted to hear that you had an opportunity 
at Mrs. W.'s of conversing with an Italian gentleman, 
even if he were a Neapolitan, though, really, I don't 
know why you should mind that, for don't you remem- 
ber that our friend ' Salvatore,' complimented you on 
speaking Neapolitan a merveille ? I wish I ever had a 
chance of speaking Italian ; I know I shall forget it 
before long. Why can't you write letters to me in 
Italian, and I will do the same. Don't think this re- 
quest unreasonable, for you must remember I never hear 
a word of the language." .... 

[To her Brother E.] 

"London, 7tli February, 1842. 

" My dear E., — As I have lately been to the open^ 
ing of Parliament, I thought it might amuse you to 
hear an account of it, for it will be as new to you as to'- 
me. Of course you know that the English Parliament 
is something like the Congress of the United States at 
Washington; and when it begins to sit, the Queen^ 
opens it by reading a speech in the House of Lords, 
and a great many spectators go to see the ceremony ; 
we went among others. Papa was dressed in his plain- 



* Her little brother. 

18 



206 MEMOIR OP 

est suit of uniform, and mamma and I were dressed in 
such dresses as we should wear at an evening party, 
with feathers in our hair. We went to the Parliament 
House a little after one ; and found an immense crowd 
assembled in the streets and near the Queen's palace, to 
see the royal carriages. We arrived at the House of 
Lords, and passed through two long lines of soldiers to 
get to our places. We were very near to the throne, 
which is a red velvet chair embroidered in gold, under a 
superb red velvet canopy, with gold fringe and tassels. 
On the right of the throne is a splendid red velvet chair 
for the Prince of Wales, which he will sit in when he is 
old enough. On the left of the throne was another red 
velvet chair, not quite so rich, for Prince Albert, the 
Queen's husband. We waited a good while, but at last 
there was a cry, ' The Qaeen is coming.' A great many 
guards and noblemen came in, and then Her Majesty, 
led by Prince Albert. She took her seat on the throne, 
and after a- short interval she read the speech, which be- 
gan as all the speeches do, ' My Lords and Gentlemen.' 
She read the speech very well, in a clear, distinct voice. 
Perhaps you may like to know how the Queen was 
dressed. She had on a white satin dress, embroidered 
in gold, and a train of pm-ple velvet, trimmed with 
ermine, which train was held up by ladies and pages. 
She had on a splendid coronet of diamonds, and superb 
necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets of diamonds ; and also 
the whole waist of her dress was covered with diamonds. 
Prince Albert is a very handsome man, and was dressed 
in uniform. The King of Prussia was there also. He 
has lately been making a visit here, and papa, with the 
other foreign ministers, was presented to him. 

" We had sent to us the other day, a piece of the 
christeninof cake of the little Prince of Wales. It came 



ANNE GORIIAM EVERETT. 207 

in a small white box, on the outside of which was writ- 
ten, ' Christeninjo^ Cake of H. R. H. the Prince of Wales; 
Windsor, 25th January, 1842 ; ' and at the top the three 
feathers which compose the crest of the Prince of Wales. 
I have given you a long account, but it may serve to 
amuse you and your young friends. 

" I hear it has been very cold in Paris lately. I hope 
you contrive to keep warm. It has been quite warm 
here lately, more like spring than winter. A week or 
two ago, when the river in Hyde Park was frozen over, 
(the Serpentine,) papa, S., and I crossed it twice on the 
ice, and it made us a very pleasant walk, but now there 
is not a particle of ice on it. 

" We are looking round very busily for a house to 
move into next month, but have not yet found one ; for 
it is no easy matter to find a house to suit 

" I suppose you have no one to look over your letters 
as I used to do, for we observe some instances of wrong 
spelling in them. It is a good plan, if you do not quite 
know how a w^ord is spelt, to look it out in the English 
dictionary ; but perhaps, you have none. 

" Little W. has not forgotten you, and we shall not 
let him do so." 

[To O. B. F.] 

" London, 28th February, 1842. 

" Deak Cousin O., — I received your letter of the 31st 
January, by the Britannia steamship. These steamers 
are grand things certainly ; they make us feel as if we 
were not so very far from home. 

" 1 was amused at the account you gave of the recep- 
tion of Mr. Dickens. I supposed people would be glad 
to see him, but I did not think he would be pursued so 



208 MEMOIR OP 

zealously. I have his autograph among my collection ; 
for since I came to London I have begun to collect 
autographs, and have already some very nice ones, 
among which, I may mention those of the Duke of 
Wellington, the Duke of Sussex, Sir Robert Peel, etc. 
If you should ever be in the way of getting autographs, 
I wish you would send me some. 

" I think you said you wished to hear about statuary. 
I cannot tell you about English statuary, for I have 
seen none here ; but in Rome and Naples we saw^ quan- 
tities of it, particularly in Rome, mostly ancient 

" The object that most interested me in Rome, was 
the old Forum, which is partly uncovered, and is full of 
remains of the old temples, and the arch of Septimius 
Severus, on which you can still read the inscription 
with great ease. The modern city is, as it were, over 
the ancient, and you look down into the Forum, upon 
the Via Sacra, which still winds up to the capitol, part 
of the ancient wall of which is still standing. The 
grandest ruin is, of course, the Coliseum ; the most 
curious, the arch of Titus ; the prettiest, the little tem- 
ple of Vesta ; and the best preserved, the columns of 
Trajan and Antoninus. 

" To leave antiquity, I suppose you have seen prints 
of Mr. Greenough's statue of General Washington, 
which is now in the capitol. We saw it in Italy. Mr. 
G. showed it to us by torchlight, and it had a grand 
appearance. I am sure Americans ovght to be satis- 
fied with it, but I hear a great many cavils have been 
made about it. Papa wrote an article about it, enti- 
tled ' American sculptors in Italy,' in a magazine, edited 
by his nephew, Nathan Hale, jr. ; if you should fall in 
with it, it will give you a better idea of it than I could 
if I talked a month 



ANXE GORHAM EVERETT. 209 

" The Queen, Prince Albert, and the two royal infants 
are now staying at Brighton. The Prince of Wales is 
said to be a very fine large baby. I am sure he needs 
to be, for he has titles enough to crush him, if he were 
hot. Perhaps you may be amused with an enumera- 
tion of them as I saw them in the papers. They are, 
* Duke of Saxony, Duke of Cornwall and Rothsay, Earl 
of Carrick, Baron Renfi-ew, Lord of the Isles, and Lord 
High Steward of Scotland, Prince of Wales, and Earl 
of Chester.' All these titles he inherited, except the tivo 
last, which were given him when about a month old. 
His name, as I suppose you have seen by the papers, is 
Albert Edward, but his mother, it is said, will have him 
called Albert. 

" I do not have quite as much time to study as for- 
merly, but I do find a little time every morning. I have 
just finished Horace, and have begun to read Tacitus, 
but find it rather difficult. However, labo?' omnia vincit; 
I suppose it will grow easier. I wish I could learn 
to speak German, but am certain I never shall till 
I go to Germany. I have written you a long, and I 
fear tiresome letter, but you must * take the will for the 
deed.' 

" With remembrances to all the family, I am," etc. 

[To her Sister.] 

"LoxDOX, 14tli March, 1842. 

" My dear C, — .... We were asked the other 
evening to Lady L.'s soiree, and went there early ! that 
is, about ten o'clock. The Marquis of L.'s house is 
really a palace in size, very handsomely furnished, and 
such pictures I It made my mouth water (to use a vul- 
gar expression) to see them, even by candlelight. Then 
18* 



210 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

there are some beautiful pieces of statuary, among 
others a duplicate of Canova's Venus, made by Canova 
himself. I am not quite sure of the story ; but I believe 
it was made by Canova for Lucien Bonaparte, and cap- 
tured and brought to England. I do not know how 
it came in Lord L.'s possession 

" Mamma and I are reading now ' Stephens' Travels 
in Central America.' I advise you to read it. I saw 
it, when in Paris, on Mrs. T.'s table, and perhaps she 
can lend it you. You know we read, at Watertown, 
' Travels in Arabia and the Holy Land,' by the same 
author. This is written with his characteristic fun and 
good-humor, and also with his usual simplicity and 
naivete. It makes you feel as if you had known the 
author all your life ; and I am sure if I ever meet him 
anywhere, I shall be tempted to address him as an old 
acquaintance, and ask him about some of his queer 
adventures. I tell mamma that if ever he comes here, 
she must give him a dinner-party, by way of acknowl- 
edgment for the pleasure his book has given us. 

" We have made the acquaintance of Sir E. L. Bul- 
wer, but I shall not undertake to describe him. Some 
day you may see him." .... 



CHAPTER XIV 



ReMOTAL to GROSYENOR place — CORRESPONDENCE CONTINUED 

PRESENTATION TO THE QUEEN EXTRACTS FROil HER JOURNAL 

COURT GAYETIES. 



" No mist breathed o'er her brightness ; but the pure 
Full light of virtue rested there, and shed 
New lustre on the light that ever came 
Through her transparent features, and revealed 
Each movement of the soul that swelled within." 



" LoxDOX, 25th March, 1842. 

"Dear Aunt A., — I suppose by this time you have 
recovered from the fatigue of moving, and are ready to 
receive some letters from abroad. We have just been 
moving ourselves, but probably we have not had so 
much ti'ouble and fatigue as you, because we had not 
the whole furniture of a house to move ; though we 
found we had accumulated a great many things, living 
in a house only three months. We are now in a very 
pleasant house in Grosvenor Place ; our windows over- 
look the private gardens of Buckingham Palace, the 
royal residence. The Queen's first drawing-room is on 
the 7th of April, and on that day we shall be presented 
at court. I do not like the idea of the train and 
feathers, but you cannot attend a drawing-room with- 



212 MEMOIR OF 

out them. After Easter, the London season of gayety 
begins, and then large balls and assemblies abound. 
Before Easter, the parties are small, but there are a 
good many of them. It is a very common thing here 
to go from a dinner-party to one or more evening par- 
ties ; and as the hours are so late it can be done very 
well. The other day we went to a dinner at seven, left 
it a little after ten, and went to one party. After stay- 
ing there a little while, we went to another and returned 
from the last a little before twelve. The fashionable 
hour for going to a ball is eleven o'clock ; to a small 
party somewhat earlier. Are not these hours terrible ? 
Particularly to us, who get up as early as we did in 
America. The generality of people who lead this life, 
rise at ten o'clock. It does seem wrong to waste thus 
the best hours of the day, and yet you must have your 
sleep some time or other. Let us get up as early as we 
may, we cannot have breakfast before half past eight, 
even at this season. I am writing this before break- 
fast 

" Is there any probability that grandpapa will come 
out to us in the course of the spring ? We have a very 
nice house to receive him in, and can promise him a 
very kind reception. 

" We have received in good condition, several favorite 
little articles of furniture, books, and so forth, from our 
house in Summer Street, and they make a very good 
appearance in our house in Grosvenor Place." 

The time of her presentation now drew near. Some 
annoyance arose with regard to her dress ; a blue train 
having actually been ordered before it was understood 
that custom required that young ladies, presented for 
the first time, should appear in white. " All this trouble 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 213 

and talk about the dresses,''^ she writes her sister, " has 
made me lose all desire to go, and I now look upon a 
drawing-room presentation as a tiresome business ; 
there is so much ceremony about it. Lady W. told 
mamma that it was generally considered proper for a 
Minister's lady to go to every drawing-room, unless her 
health or any other insuperable objection prevented. 
Only think of mamma's going to every drawing-room ! 
/shall not have, however, to go to every one, unless I 
wish, and I do not think I shall choose it, for you 
know to be dressed up in ball-dresses at midday is not 
so agreeable. However, when we are used to it, I dare 
say we shall go on as other people do." 

That she never did become used to it, however, is evi- 
dent from the tenor of her letters and journal. It is 
sad, too, to reflect, that while this " dissipation," as she 
herself calls it, afforded her but little pleasure, it was, 
undoubtedly, sowing the seeds of her future, almost 
mysterious disease. Her apparent health and untiring 
activity concealed this fact from her parents, and, doubt- 
less, from herself also. She gave herself no indulgences 
after late hours ; but pursued her studies, and improved 
every hour of the succeeding day with undiminished 
zeal. This may have been too much for her delicate 
constitution. 

Writing to another friend of their numerous invita- 
tions, and the unseasonable hours for visiting, she again 
says : " This will bear rather hard upon us, as we rise 
early. As I cannot bring my mind to pass the best 
hours of the day in bed, I do not know what I shall 
do." 



214 MEMOIR OF 



[To P. C] 

" London, April, 1842. 

" My dearest P., — I promised, after my presentation, 
to write you an account of it ; here you have it, such as 
it is ; not worth much after all. You may like to know 
our dresses. I wrote H. word, I believe, that I should 
wear a blue train, but afterwards, hearing that young 
ladies, on their first presentation, had the privilege of 
wearing all white, I decided for that. My petticoat 
w^as white gros de nap, with two skirts of tulle, looped 
up with bunches of delicate pink and white hawthorn 
flowers. My train was white watered silk, rich, but 
simple, the waist of it, which is precisely like any waist, 
likewise trimmed with hawthorn, and trimmings of the 
same to my gloves. Mamma's petticoat was white 
watered silk, trimmed with blonde ; her train blue satin, 
trimmed also with blonde. We both had feathers 
and blonde lappets. So much for the dresses, which 
we put on about half past twelve in the morn- 
ing, and proceeded to the palace a little after one. We 
put our trains in folds over our arms, and passing 
through several antechambers, went into a room appro- 
priated to the diplomatic body. The room was soon 
filled, and looking out of the windows, -we saw the 
Queen's suite of splendid carriages drive up. The 
drawing-rooms are held in St. James's Palace, and the 
Queen lives in Buckingham Palace, so she has to drive 
from one to the other. The doors of the throne room 
were at last thrown open ; we took our trains from our 
arms, let them sweep the floor, and advanced towards 
the Queen and Prince Albert, who were standing side 



ANXE GORHAM EVERETT. 215 

by side, near the foot of the throne. Her Majesty and 
the Prince bowed, and we curtsied, but she did not 
speak to me ; there were too many persons for that. 
Mamma and I were presented by the French ambassa- 
dress, the Countess de Ste. Aulaire. After we had 
passed the Queen and Prince, our trains were gathered 
up and placed upon our arms by some gentlemen in wait- 
ing, and we, (that is, the ladies of the diplomatic body,) 
took our places on the left hand of the Queen. Then 
the English ladies, a great many in number, were pre- 
sented. The young ladies, presented for the first time, 
kissed the Queen's hand, which she had ungloved for 
that purpose ; only the EngUsh do this ; also the Queen 
kissed the cheek of two or three married ladies ; by 
what rule this was done, I do not know. 

" When the presentations, which lasted more than two 
hours, were all over, the Queen and Prince Albert bowed 
to the diplomatic corps, which bow we returned by 
curtsying, and then the royal cortege left the room, 
two little pages holding her Majesty's train. 

" You may like to know the dress of the Queen. 
She wore a white satin petticoat, embroidered in gold, 
and trimmed with diamonds, of English (Spitalfields) 
manufacture ; and a tulle dress over it. Her train was 
also white satin, embroidered in gold, and trimmed 
round with gold wheat ears, red poppies, and little blue 
flowers, which always grow together in England. She 
had a diamond coronet, necklace, and ear-rings. I have 
not time or space to describe to you any of the other 
dresses, though some of them were very elegant. One 
lady had a purple A^elvet train, and purple feathers. 
Some who were in mourning, wore all black, train and 
all. 

" We left the throne room, passed through the ante- 



216 MEMOIE OF 

rooms, and had not long to wait for our carriage. We 
reached home a little before fom-, took off our trains 
and feathers, and that affair was over, and not worth 
the trouble and the expense. It is perfectly amazing to 
me how any American can go, who is not obliged to; 
but many do. 

" I have not time to write an account of this cere- 
mony to H. H., as I am extremely busy ; so I should 
like to have this letter do for both. The fashionable 
season has now really begun, and we have invitations 
enough to tire us out. 

" I have lately begun to ride on horseback, and enjoy 
it very much. I have a purple riding habit, and a gen- 
tleman's black hat, which everybody wears here. Do 
you ever ride ? It is certainly a very pleasant way of 
taking exercise, and in my opinion not at all dangerous, 
if you are only courageous and self-possessed. 

" Thank H. for her letter, which I received by the 
last steamer. She mentioned that you had been quite 
ill, which I was very sorry to hear, but I hope your 
health is in general good. I have hardly been ill at all 
since we came here, and though, since spring come in, 
we have had very disagreeable east winds, yet they do 
not seem to affect my health. 

" Do you remember our old schoolmistresses, the 
Misses K. ? If you ever see them, ask them if they 
remember me, and give my respects to them." .... 

Journal. "12th April, 1842. — We had proposed a 
pleasant expedition for to-day — a visit to Strawberry 
Hill, the country-seat of the famous Horace Walpole 
(Lord Orford) where he made a fine collection of pic- 
tures, manuscripts, antiques, medals, and a fine library. 
This collection is now to be sold at auction, and before 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 217 

it is sold, the public are admitted to view it. But we 
were prevented from going to-day, and shall probably 
go Saturday, that being our first leisure day. 

" We received an invitation to-day to the Queen's 
ball on Friday, and of course we attend. To-morrow 
night we go to the Russian Minister's, and to one other 
party ; and on Thursday, to a small party at Dr. and 
Mrs. B.'s. I am afraid we shall be a little tired with all 
this dissipation and these late hours." 

" 15th. — I rode this morning about an hour and 
enjoyed it very much, as I had an uncommonly easy 

horse In the evening we went to the Queen's 

ball, at Buckingham Palace. We were rather late, 
owing to the delay of our coachman, and came into the 
line of carriages at the corner of St. James street, so 
that we proceeded very slowly to the palace, and there 
was a great crowd when we arrived. The rooms were 
very brilliantly lighted, and very extensive, particularly 
the picture gallery ; but we could not see the pictures 
well by candlelight. There is one picture there of the 
Queen's marriage, just finished. 

" We saw the Queen dancing. She danced always^ 
opposite to Prince Albert, and no other couples were on' 
the same side with her. She did not look as well to- 
night as she sometimes does, for her dress did not 
become her much. We staid till about one o'clock, and 
then came away, after waiting some time for our car- 
riage. At every turn in the staircase, there were beau- 
tiful hothouse flowers arranged in semicircles. Alto- 
gether it was very brilliant though somewhat fatiguing." 

" 19th. — We went to Strawberry Hill at last to-day, 
starting about ten o'clock from London. We passed 
through Kensington and Richmond, and arrived at 
Strawberry Hill at half past eleven. The house is low, 

19 



218 MEMOIR OF 

Gothic, and old-fashioned, and does not look very com- 
fortable inside, though I dare say if it were fitted up 
for a residence it would look better. In the lower rooms 
we saw a portrait of Horace Walpole, which had an 
intelligent and pleasing, though somewhat of a wild 
expression ; and a portrait of his father, Sir Robert, 
with his first wife (the mother of Horace), on one side, 
and his second wife on the other. There are some por- 
traits by Sir Joshua Reynolds here, of ladies of the 
Waldegrave family, which was connected with that of 
Walpole. There is also a great deal of curious old 
China in one of these lower rooms. 

" In the great hall up stairs, is a very large and inter- 
esting collection of miniatures ; one of Cowley, the 
poet, which is very beautiful, and it is thought will sell 
for a very large sum ; one also of Charlotte, Countess 
of Derby, who is so famous in Peveril of the Peak. In 
this room were some fine portraits, an ancient bust of 
Vespasian, and some rich old tapestry. The most 
interesting things were in a side room. These were a 
silver bell, not very large, said to be wrought by the 
celebrated Benvenuto Cellini. It is deeply wrought all 
over in serpents, lizards, leaves, etc. The other most 
interesting thing was a missal, painted by il divino 
Raffaello^ and his scholars, for Claude, Queen of Francis 
I. of France. The paintings, as may be imagined, 
were beautiful, and the outside was richly set with 
precious stones, with a superb carnelian intaglio on one 
side. There was another missal painted by a pupil of 
Giulio Romano, which was not so handsome. 

" In the library, we saw some very interesting auto- 
graphs ; namely, a letter from Oliver Cromwell to his 
wife, the day after the battle of Dunbar ; very curious, 
and not very well written ; four letters of Madame 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 219 

de Sevign^, the handwriting very large ; a letter of 
Catherine Parr, the last Queen of Henry VIIL, and a 
letter from Peter, the Czar of Russia. In the library 
also is a curious old clock, presented by Henry VHI. to 
Anne Boleyn, when they were married. The case is gilt, 
with two heavy balance weights, and very old-fashioned. 
I forgot to mention, that among the autogi-aphs, we 
saw a letter from Mme. de Maintenon, wife of Louis 
XIV., and some of her hair. In the gallery adjoining 
the library is some curious old armor ; a suit worn by 
Francis I. of France. All over the house are old 
painted glass windows in brilliant colors, which give 
the rooms a very ancient look. 

" We went to stroll in the grounds, after walking 
through the house. These are very beautiful, in the 
true English style. There is a little chapel in the 
grounds, with a fine painted glass window, and some 
old furniture in it. 

" We found our walk in the Park very pleasant, for 
the air was mild, the wind slight, and the grounds very 
pretty. We returned to the house again, and looked at 
a few more miniatures. In one of the rooms is the 
Cardinal's hat worn by W^olsey ; also a silver kettle that 
belonged to Queen Anne Boleyn. 

" There were numerous other things, but together 
with a great many interesting articles, there was a great 
deal of rubbish ; that, however, could perhaps hardly be 
avoided in a collection of antiquities. We were, upon 
the whole, much pleased with our visit, and reached 
home just before five. The distance is twelve miles. 

" Papa and mamma afterwards went to a party at 
the Russian Minister's, but I had too severe a cold to 
venture out in the evening air, and went to bed early." 



220 MEMOIR OF 

"20th. — ^I rode on horseback again to-day, had a 
very good horse and a nice ride 

" In the evening we went to a party at Count St. 
Aulaire's, the French Ambassador. There were so 
many carriages, that it was a great while before we 
could get into the house ; when we did get in, the 
crowd was so terrible, we were almost squeezed to 
death. After walking round the rooms a short time, 
and speaking to our friends and acquaintances, we 
thought it best to return. Then there was such a 
crowded scene in the cloak room, every one hunting for 
their things. One lady was looking for her yellow bag, 
containing her cloak, and said to a gentleman, ' Have 
you seen a yellow bag ? Do tell me.' ' No,' said he, 
' but if I do, I '11 tell you,' and went immediately off. 
In short, it was a disagi'eeable scene. We did not have 
to wait very long for our carriage, and reached home, I 
think, a little before one." 

" 24th. — .... A friend called for us, and took us 
to see the studio of the late Sir Francis Chantrey, the 
celebrated English sculptor. There are several statues 
there, principally for monuments, and a great many 
busts, some of which we recognized, in particular 
one very pretty bust of the Queen. The cast of the 
statue of Washington is there, the original of which is 
in the State House in Boston. But I was rather dis- 
appointed in this statue, after seeing that by Mr. 
Greenough, — which, by the way, is now fixed in its 
place in the Capitol. 

" We were taken into Chantrey's foundry, where the 
bronze statues are cast, and where they are now casting 
an equestrian bronze statue of the Duke of Wellington, 
which is to be placed on the arch at Hyde Park corner, 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 221 

opposite Apsley House. There was also an equestrian 
statue of George the Fourth. The process of casting 
is very curious, but I could not quite understand it. 

" In one room is a fine figure of a dog, in clay, which 
was unfinished when Sir Francis died, and now, I sup- 
pose, it will not be finished. All the casts, with a few 
exceptions, have been presented by Lady Chantrey to 
the University of Oxford. Among the statues was a 
fine one of Mr. Canning, the late celebrated statesman. 
I am glad all the collection is to go together, for it 
would be a pity to separate it. There are almost as 
many pieces as w^e saw in Thorwaldsen's studio at 
Rome, but very few bass-reliefs in Sir Francis's studio^ 
in that respect differing from Thorwaldsen's, whose 
bass-reliefs are some of the most exquisite of his 
works." .... 

" 10th May. — It has not been so pleasant to-day as 
for some days past ; the cold east winds seem to have 
returned. A lady with whom we have lately become 
acquainied, Lady Charlotte D., called to-day for me and 
took me to see the exhibition of water-color paintings. 
There are more than three hundred of them, and some 
of them are very beautiful, and so well done that they 
look really like oil-colors. Some flower pieces struck 
me as particularly well done ; and there w^ere some very 
charming landscapes, representing scenes in England 
and Scotland. 

" There was a picture of the Forum of Pompeii, very 
natural ; also one of the gardens of the Tuileries at 
Paris. 

" Some of the best of these pictures. Lady Charlotte 
told me, often sold for sixty or seventy guineas. In re- 
turning we stopped at a shop where the famous Spital- 

19* 



222 MEMOIR OF 

fields silks are sold, but they do not compare in beauty 
with the French silks. 

" Mamma and I did not go out this evening, which I 
was glad of, that I might rest a little." 

" .12th. — .... This evening we went to the Queen's 
fancy ball, which has been so long in preparation. It 
was exceedingly brilliant ; a vast number of people be- 
ing there, the rooms brilliantly lighted, and with the 
addition of the costumes, it was a fairy scene. There 
were several distinct sets of quadrilles, all dressed in 
uniform, the prettiest of which was the Russian quad- 
rille, in red velvet and ermine. The quadrille of the 
Crusaders was very pretty, as also the Waverley quad- 
rille, taken from Sir Walter Scott's novels. The Queen 
and Prince Albert were dressed as King Edward III. 
and Queen Philippa, and both looked very well. The 
Queen's mantle was of cloth of gold, lined with 
meniver ; the Prince's of scarlet velvet, lined with 
ermine ; they both had golden crowns on their heads ; 
and the Prince looked as if he enjoyed the part of King, 
which he has never played before. 

" It is impossible to describe or even recollect one 
half of the splendid and rich dresses. There were a 
great number of Greek dresses, almost exactly like 
mine ; a great many Spanish, and some Italian dresses, 
almost all of them of the moijen age. The display of 
diamonds and other jewels was really magnificent; 
some persons were loaded with them ; in particular the 
Marchioness of Londonderry. The Bavarian Minister's 
lady also had splendid jewels. It was almost impossi^ 
ble to see the dancing of the separate quadrilles, on 
account of the crowd; though afterwards we saw a 
mixed one danced, which was very pretty. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 223 

" About one o'clock supper was served, and on 
the side table was a splendid display of gold plate. 
The supper was handsome, but nothing extraordinary. 
The Queen and Prince Albert, whenever they moved 
about, were attended by a guard in the dresses of Ed- 
ward III.'s time. Some of the attendants were sheathed 
in complete armor. The Queen could not dance on 
account of her long train, which was borne by two little 
pages, dressed in red. We staid till nearly two o'clock, 
and then, after waiting for our carriage some time, re- 
turned home. The whole scene was most brilliant, and 
a sight we may never see again, so I am delighted we 
were able to witness it." 

" 19th. — We went this morning to the Queen's 
drawing-room ; as it was held to celebrate her birthday, 
almost everybody went, and it was excessively crowded. 
As for the trains, they are only on the floor for a few 
minutes, and all the rest of the time carried on your 
arm, and do not show at all. It seems a great pity to 
have them. The Queen was dressed in white satin, 
embroidered in gold, but owing to the length of the 
drawing-room, she became very tired. Almost all the 
royal family were there, and made a very large circle. 
When w^e returned home, at half past four, it rained 
hard; and we heard afterwards that some of the car- 
riages did not get away from the palace till half past 
five. This waiting is very tiresome. 

" Papa dined with the diplomatic corps at the Earl 
of Aberdeen's, and in the evening we went to the Duke 
of Wellington's great ball. On our way we saw a great 
part of the illuminations in honor of the Queen's birth- 
day, some of which were very brilliant, though a great 
many of them were only the letters ' V. R.' illuminated. 



224 MEMOIR OF 

Apsley House, the Duke of Wellington's residence, is 
very large and handsome. The great hall is hung with 
fine pictures, and the ceiling superbly gilt. Indeed, in 
all the rooms the pictures were very fine, though they 
did not of course show to advantage by candlelight. 
We staid about an hour, walked round, and spoke to 
our acquaintances, and then returned home exceedingly 
tired with our exertions all day." 

"20th. -- 1 took a riding lesson to-day; my lessons 
are now almost finished, and I think I have profited by 
them, at any rate I have enjoyed them. I do not know 
whether papa will be able to ride with me in the park 
after they are over or not. 

" We went this evening to a concert, given by the 
Queen at the palace. As we were rather late, we had 
some difficulty at first in getting seats, for ihe music 
room was small, in proportion to the company it was to 
hold. The large pictm'e gallery, I think, would have 
been better for the purpose. After we had been there 
some time, the Queen and royal family entered, and 
took their seats at the head of the room, near the per- 
formers. The Queen was dressed in blue satin, dia- 
mond necklace, etc., and over her left shoulder the broad, 
dark blue ribbon of the Order of the Garter. Prince 
Albert looked better in his citizen's dress than he does 
in uniform. He wore the Garter in splendid diamonds 
below his left knee, and around his neck the jewelled 
collar of the Order. 

'- The music was very fine ; all the best Italian singers 
performing. We heard Mario, the tenor, for the first 
time ; his voice is powerful, but not so sweet as that of 
our old acquaintance Moriani ; and I was rather disap- 
pointed in him. Persiani and Lablache sung beauti- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 225 

fully; we heard them in Paris, and Ronconi, who was 
hoarse the other night at the Opera, had recovered his 
voice, and sang with great power. 

" The singing, though very fine indeed, was too 
much protracted. After the singing was over, the 
Queen, royal family, etc., left the room, and then we 
followed, with the rest of the company ; but having to 
wait some time for our carriage, we did not get home 
till after one o'clock. I had been much entertained dur- 
ing the evening." 

" 24th. — .... In the evening we went to the 
Duchess of Sutherland's fancy ball. Staftbrd House, 
the residence of the Duke and Duchess, is the hand- 
somest and most splendid private mansion in London, 
and furnished in the most superb style. The ceilings 
are richly gilded and painted in fresco, and in the large 
gallery are some splendid pictures ; we noticed some 
very fine JMurillos, which the Duke has lately bought ; 
also a beautiful Paul Veronese. 

" The great picture gallery was lighted partly by 
arches of lamps, resting on green moss, which had a 
beautiful effect under the rich gilded ceiling ; and the 
place where the musicians were was concealed by a 
perfect garden of flowers. There being a large mirror 
at the end of this room it was reflected back double. 
The next room that struck us was the green velvet 
room, the walls wholly lined with gi-een velvet, and 
richly gilt. It was a bright, clear, moonlight night, not 
a cloud in the sky, and looking from the window of 
this room to the bright moon and green lawn without, 
the effect was lovely. In this room were some very 
beautiful pieces of statuary. 

" The next room to this was very richly furnished 
with damask furnitm-e, and in it a table of Sevres china, 



226 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

exquisitely done, presented to the Duke and Duchess 
by King Louis Philippe. The grand hall of entrance, 
and the great staircase are the most magnificent of the 
kind I ever saw, and were beautifully arranged with 
flowers and lamps intermingled ; and it was a beauti- 
ful sight to look down from the gallery, and see the 
company in their gay dresses come in. Most persons 
who had been at the Queen's ball, wore the dresses 
they did on that night, but the Duchess of Sutherland 
herself had on an entirely different costume ; she wore 
a Scotch dress, very rich in all its parts, and her dia- 
monds were magnificent. 

" Yet, with all her wealth and splendor, she is so 
amiable, kind, and affable to every one, that I am sure 
no person could, in the least, envy her grandeur. She 
treated us in the kindest manner the whole evening ; 
and being handsome and graceful, is exactly the sort of 
person to be mistress of that great palace. 

" There was a profusion of refreshments, and after- 
wards, of supper, five rooms being filled with large sup- 
per tables. Several members of the Royal family were 
there, and the Duchess of Gloucester, the Queen's 
aunt, spoke very kindly to us, as she always does. We 
went to supper a little after one, and soon after returned 
home. 

" We did not go to bed till nearly three o'clock." 



CHAPTER XV. 



British museum — illness — dejeuners — excursions to Manches- 
ter CAMBRIDGE — ETON — OXFORD. 



'' Her conduct gentle, and her -vvell-trained mind, 
Eeplete with love of books and human kind." 



JouRXAL. "26th May, 1842. — We went to-day 
about two o'clock, to explore the British Museum, where 
we have never been before. It is an immense building, 
and they are now engaged in erecting a new one, and 
pulling down part of the old. The new one is about 
three fifths completed, and very much larger than the 
old one. Mr. Forshall was very civil to us and showed 
us round everywhere. He took us first into the manu- 
script room, v\diere, I think he said, there are twenty- 
five thousand manuscripts. One of the most curious 
of them is the manuscript of Pope's translation of the 
Iliad, which is written entirely on letter covers ; not a 
bit of fresh paper throughout ; and it was very curious 
to read on one side the poetry, and then turn over, and 
read on the other side of the paper, ' To A. Pope, Esq.' 
The manuscript, as one would imagine, is full of cor- 
rections. It must have been difficult to print from it. 
There wa;s a book with the autographs of many of the 
Kings and Queens of England, very interesting ; there 



228 MEMOIR OF 

was the handwriting of poor Lady Jane Grey, during 
her short reign ; ' Jane the Quene,' written in a firm, 
bold hand. The writings of Edward the Sixth and of 
Queen Elizabeth were very much alike, and very good ; 
that of their sister. Bloody Mary, not so good. We 
saw several very beautiful illuminated missals, quite 
ancient, and some specimens of oriental writing, very 
curious. Hanging on the wall of the room, was an 
autograph of the Duke of Wellington, written on the 
field of Waterloo. The printed books, I believe, are in 
number about five hundred thousand, seventy thousand 
of which were a library collected by George III., and 
presented by George IV. to the nation. Truly a noble 
present, and fit for a King to give. 

" From the library we went into the room of Egyp- 
tian antiquities, and there we saw sphinxes, statues, 
sarcophagi, etc., just like those in the museums of 
France and the Vatican, and all in the tasteless style of 
Egyptian art. It is easy to see why the Egyptian 
sculptures are so devoid of beauty and grace ; because 
they did not copy nature, unless the Egyptian nature 
of those days was diflferent from the modern. We saw 
among these antiquities, the celebrated Rosetta stone, 
which gave the first clue to the discovery that the hiero- 
glyphics of the ancient Egyptians were an alphabetical 
character. There were a good many Greek statues, 
but, in general, all much more mutilated than those in 
the Italian museums. There were a great many pieces 
of sculpture from the Parthenon at Athens. In one of 
the rooms is the celebrated Barberini or Portland vase, 
made of dark blue glass, and sculptured beautifully in 
white. It is not known how ancient it is, or by whom 
done. Once in about seven years, Mr. F. said the Duke 
of Portland takes the vase away for a little while, to 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 229 

show that it belongs to him. Some of the old things 
in this room are very curious. There are two bits of 
rusty bronze, said to be a part of the armor of King 
Pyrrhus, for which the Museum paid a very large sun^! 
We saw also some articles taken from Herculaneum. 
There was a small collection of Etruscan vases, like 
those in the Vatican, and a great many Egyptian mum- 
mies, and skeletons of animals ; horrible looking things. 
There was a curled wig, in very good preservation, and 
of a very good color. 

" One of the prettiest sights was that of the room, 
where is an immense collection of birds, all beautifully 
arranged in cases, and some of them very brilliant, and 
handsome. We had not time to stay as long as I 
should have liked in this room. The collection of 
insects was very fine too, though some of them were 
frightful looking creatures. On one side of the 
insect room were serpents, toads, and all such ani- 
mals, preserved in bottles, which almost made you 
start back when you looked at them. The collection of 
corals was very pretty ; so was the collection of min- 
erals, which we did not have time to examine very 
closely. We saw among other things a large piece of 
meteoric iron, perfectly pure, and weighing fifteen hun- 
dred pounds. ; 

"Having gone through the rooms above, we* de- 
scended, and saw what is called the original of Magna 
Charta, which has been greatly damaged by fire, and 
the seal almost melted away ; it was a very interesting 
sight however. There is a contemporary copy of it in 
the manuscript room. 

" We left the Museum at five o'clock, and promised 
ourselves the pleasure of going again and seeing many 
things we were obliged to omit to-day for want of time. 

20 



230 MEMOIR OF 

It is, altogether, a most interesting monument, and 
worthy of a great nation. I wish we had such an one 
in America, but that, 1 suppose, in the present state of 
our country, is not likely to take place." 

A second visit to the Museum in the fall, is thus 
described : — 

" 25th November. — We went this morning to the 
British Museum. We did not undertake to go over 
the whole of its vast extent, but went to the most inter- 
esting parts, some of which we inspected, on our visit 
last summer. The old and curious manuscripts and 
missals, now, as then, interested us exceedingly; and 
we saw some to-day, which we did not see before ; such 
as the handwiitings of Tasso, Ariosto, and Michelan- 
gelo, and several very valuable autographs of Washing- 
ton, our own Washington, which, I was glad to see, are 
very highly prized. Some of the Mexican and Oriental 
manuscripts are very curious ; and there are two cases 
of manuscripts, which, as the Librarian told us, are 
valued at .£150,000. 

" Next we went into the room of Egyptian antiqui- 
ties, and from these to the Elgin marbles ; after which, 
Mr. F., the Secretary of the Museum, who kindly ac- 
companied us, was so good as to show us the collection 
of coins, which is very valuable, and not generally 
shown. There are very early Grecian and Roman 
coins, in gold, silver, and copper; and though the shape 
of most of them is irregular, yet the impressions of the 
heads are, for the most part, very beautiful and distinct. 
In the same room are some ornaments of Etruscan 
jewelry, taken from the lately discovered Etruscan 
tombs. They consist of necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets, 
and so on, and the workmanship and design of them 
are very delicate and beautiful. It carries one back 



ANXE GORHAM EVERETT. 231 

most truly to ancient times, to see these exquisitely 
wrought works, made by a people who flourished long 
before the proud Romans, and whose only history is 
read from their tombs. 

" We were taken suddenly from ancient to modern 
times, by being shown a portrait of Napoleon, richly 
set in brilliants, and given by him to an English lady, 
whose name I forget, who had executed for the Emperor 
a bust of Charles James Fox. The lady presented it 
to the British Museum. It appears to be a good like- 
ness and is a very pretty painting. 

" After spending two or three hours in the Museum, 
we left it, having had a delightful visit. It is truly an 
immense collection of art and science I 

Again we turn to the order of her 

JouRXAL. "31st May. — We breakfasted this morn- 
ing with Mr. Rogers. He has been a good deal in Italy, 
and among his other works has written a beautiful 
poem on that country, which we read last summer at 
Careggi. He has a noble collection of pictures, many 
by the first masters, many Etruscan vases, and other 
antiquities, and some very curious autographs. His 
house, in the rear, opens on Green Park, and there is a 
delightful view from the windows. 

" We had at breakfast beside ourselves, the Van 
Rensselaers, New York friends of ours, and Mr. M., 
the Master of the Queen's Household, who has been in 
America, and is a very entertaining gentleman. Some 
curious anecdotes were told at breakfast, but I forget 
them almost all for I was not well. One, however, I 
recollect. ' A nobleman,' whose name I did not catch, 
' thought himself obliged to fight a duel with his friend. 
Lord A.' So one morning, he went to his bedside, 



232 MEMOIR OF 

before Lord A. had risen, and said, 'Now, my Lord, 
you must fight me; here are pistols; so get up I ' 
' Surely,' said Lord A., ' you would not shoot a man in 
his bed ? ' ' No,' replied the other, ' I will never do that.' 
' Then,' said Lord A., ' I will never rise, as long as I 
live.' His opponent went away baffled. This story 
caused great laughter. 

" After breakfast, we looked at the pictures, and the 
other articles of interest, one of the most curious of 
which, is the contract for Milton's Paradise Lost, with 
his own signature. Mr. Rogers showed us also a copy 
of the first edition that was ever printed of Paradise 
Lost ; Milton received but five guineas at first, for his 
great work. There were some pretty little statues, and 
miniature pictures in this room. 

" Mr. Rogers then showed us his autographs. There 
were several of Pope, of Dryden, and of Dr. Johnson ; 
we saw a journal kept by the latter while he was in 
Paris ; not very well written. Also there was a letter 
from Lord Byron, very badly written, and addressed to 
Mr. Rogers. We then examined the back of a manu- 
script of the New Testament. When the Scriptures 
were read in the ancient churches, the back of the 
book was held toward the congregation, and very richly 
ornamented. This one had on it saints, etc., carved in 
ivory, and around the edge a row of precious stones. 
Mr. Rogers, I think, said it was as old as the time of 
Constantine. We saw also some beautiful illuminated 
missals, — the art of doing which is now lost, — like 
those in the British Museum, only not quite as hand- 
some. 

" After looking at all these interesting things, we re- 
turned home. In the afternoon papa went to see Lord 



AXXE GORHAM EVERETT. 233 

Francis Egerton's splendid picture gallery ; Lord Fran- 
cis is ijie brother of the Duke of Sutherland ; but I was 
so ill I could not go with him." 

For a week, from this time, Anne suffered from a 
very severe illness ; which, she writes, ' proved to be 
fever and ague ; caught, I suppose, on those dreadful 
Pontine Marshes between Rome and Naples," This 
painful sickness left its traces in her constitution, and 
was supposed by her medical advisers to be the original 
melancholy cause of the fatal disease, which began to 
manifest itself, at nearly the same season, the following 
year. 

On the 15th of June she was well enough to attend 
a charming fete, which she thus describes. 

^ We went to-day to a dejeuner^ as it is called, given 
by Mme. Rothschild, the widow of the late celebrated 
banker. She has a charming place in the country, 
about six miles from town, where we went. When we 
first arrived, there was a regular concert, at which all 
the principal Italians sung, except Rubini, who was 
engaged t-o come, but was prevented by ill health. 1 
was excessively disappointed at not hearing the first 
tenor in the world, especially as we have several times 
missed him, and he is now singing here for his last 
engagement, before retiring from the stage. 

" After the concert, at which Thalberg, the famous 
pianist played exquisitely, the company walked about 
the beautiful lawn and gi-ounds, and took refreshment 
in a little temple on the bank of a pretty piece of water. 
The scene was lovely, with the noble trees, many of 
them cedars of Lebanon, the green grass, and the 
water. The English certainly understand how to make 
the most of the advantages of natural scenery. 

20* 



234 MEMOIR OF 

" Afterwards, a regular dinner under the name of 
breakfast, at six o'clock, was served, and most elegantly 
and profusely served too. After dinner, when it was 
cooler, we again walked in the gardens, fragrant with 
beautiful roses and honeysuckles. There w^as a little 
boat sailing about on the sheet of water, which had a 
^ery picturesque effect. The concert, both vocal and 
instrumental, was renewed after dinner, but as we had 
heard the first of it, and it was getting late, we did not 
stay to hear it out. 

" Altogether, the party was a very splendid, and, at 
the same time, a very easy one ; and infinitely pleas- 
anter in the fresh air, than the hot and crowded even- 
ing assemblies, one of which, at the French Ambas- 
sador's, we attend to-morrow. There is also the Queen's 
drawing-room, but that I shall not go to; papa and 
mamma will go alone." 

" 22d June. — We went this morning to Apsley 
House, to see the Duke of Wellington's picture gallery, 
the Duke having kindly given us permission. The 
collection was very fine ; there are some few Titians 
and Coreggios, and a great many of the Dutch school, 
particularly of Teniers, whose pictures I like very much. 
There is one noble picture by Van Dyke, representing 
King Charles I. on horseback with an attendant. It is 
a splendid painting of an immense size, and well pre- 
served. There were a great many heads by Velasquez, 
of which the coloring was exceedingly rich, and some 
beautiful landscapes by Claude. In some other rooms, 
where were principally portraits, we saw the likenesses 
of the Emperor Napoleon, of Josephine, of the Marquis 
of Wellesley, Marshal Soult, etc. The latter looked 
exactly like his portrait by Healey. In the dining- 



ANNE GORHAM EVER'ETT. 235 

room are full length portraits of several Kings and 
Emperors, all of them dead now but one, namely, the 
ex-King of Holland. 

" The great hall, where most of the pictures are, is 
richly gilt, and the large windows which look on the 
Park, can in the evening be converted into mirrors, 
which draw across. In this large hall the Duke gives 
every year, on the 18th of June, a great banquet to cel- 
ebrate the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. The 
banquet took place last week. Apsley House is not 
as large or as handsome as Stafford House, but it is 
a very fine mansion. At the foot of the staircase is the 
large marble statue of Napoleon, by Canova, which 
was formerly on the top of the column in the Place 
Vendome ; but which after Napoleon's fall the popu- 
lace tried to destroy. It was, however, saved, taken 
down, and presented to the Duke. 

" To-morrow, we go to a breakfast given in the coun- 
try by the Duchess of Buccleugh, where the Queen 
and the Prince are to be present. The breakfast is at 
five in the afternoon ! breakfast, indeed ! "' 

" 23d. — We went to the breakfast to-day, and as it 
is a long drive to Richmond, we started about four. 
When we arrived near the Duke of Buccleugh's villa, 
there was a long train of carriages, and we did not get 
there till some time after five. The house is rather old, 
and like most old houses, cut up into small, low rooms, 
and long passages. 

" The Queen and her suite did not arrive till very 
late. After she had come, the company left the house, 
and walked about the grounds ; these are very pretty, 
the land sloping down to the river Thames, which was 
covered with boats, gaily decorated. But all this pretty 
scene was marred, by the weather being very damp and 



236 MEMOIR OF 

raw, with a sharp, cold wind ; so that almost everybody 
put on large shawls to keep themselves warm, which 
entirely hid their gay dresses. There were several 
bands of music playing, and whenever the people along 
the river saw the Queen walking about, they cheered. 

" About seven there was a breakfast (dinner) served. 
The Queen, Royal family and suite had a table to 
themselves, elegantly covered and served 

" About eight, they began to light some of the lamps 
prepared for the illuminations, which had a very pretty 
effect, glancing out from among the green trees, where 
they were suspended from the branches. The lamps on 
the bank of the river, too, which hung in festoons, were 
very pretty and tasteful. The Queen walked about 
among the company, with the King and Queen of the 
Belgians, who are now visiting her, and appeared to, 
enjoy the scene. All the Royal family were there, and 
about five hundred other persons. We came away 
about nine, as we had a long drive home; but there 
were fireworks and illuminations afterwards, and most 
of the company staid till midnight. It was, altogether, 
a very brilliant fete, and would have been still more so, 
had it not been so cold." 

The 24th of June, Anne accompanied her father in a 
short visit to Manchester, during the meeting of the 
Association, corresponding with the meeting of Savans 
at Florence, which she attended the previous year. 
They were invited to the hospitable mansion of Mr. 

, whose daughter w^as married to an American. 

Anne enjoyed the visit exceedingly, although she saw 
but little of the city, owing to the bad weather and the 
engagements of the gentlemen at the meetings. At 
these meetings her father made several addresses; and 
with a daughter's pride, which can never be otherwise 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 237 

than pleasing and becoming, writes : — " An address 
was made to papa, to which he replied, gi'eatly to the 
delight of all. Indeed, anybody that has ever heard 
papa speak, must be delighted." On another occasion, 
when Mr. Everett attended the meeting at Bristol, of 
the Royal Agricultm*al Society, of which he was elected 
a member, Anne writes with the same ardor : — " He 
was received there in a most flattering manner, with 
many marks of distinction ; and delighted everybody 
with the three speeches he made." Similar expressions 
are of frequent recurrence in her journal ; always ming- 
ling the highest honor and respect with the most tender 
affection ; — the j^erfect style of a daughter's love. 

Anne left Manchester with regret, writing of the kind 
family, who had made her stay with them so agreeable, 
" nothing could exceed their politeness, kindness, and 
attention." On their journey home they fell in with a 
German and his family, consisting of six persons. 
Anne says : " He found it very difficult to make the 
waiters understand him, till papa spoke to him in Ger- 
man and then called for what he wanted. This pleased 
him very much, and on hearing that papa was an Ameri- 
can, he observed that it was singular that a German, 
travelling in England, should have to get an American 
to interpret for him." 

^he first week of July she passed very delightfully in 
Cambridge, at Trinity Lodge; witnessing also the 
interesting ceremonies of the Installation of the Duke 
of Northumberland as Chancellor of the University. 

Cambridge. " 4th July. — I am very sorry we have 
no means of celebrating to-day ; but I suppose we must 
let the firing of the guns here go as the celebration. 
We went this morning to the Senate House to witness 
some of the ceremonies of the Installation. We had 



238 - MEMO IE OP 

to go very early in order to get seats, for the Senate 
House was crowded in every part. The galleries were 
filled with young men, who, every now and then, v/ould 
give ' three cheers ' for some one. The Queen and 
Royal family, the Church dignitaries, the Dukes of 
Wellington and Northumberland were successively 
cheered, and to hear the huzzas, and see the waving of 
hats, was very inspiriting. ' Her Majesty's Ministers ' 
were loudly cheered, and everybody seemed to be in 
high spirits. 

" It was long before the Chancellor, accompanied by 
the Duke of Wellington, and the Lord Chancellor 
Lyndhurst, entered the hall. They took their places, 
and then we waited a good while before the exercises 
began. First, the public Orator, as he is called, who 
always speaks on behalf of the University, made an 
an excellent address in Latin, He paid many compli- 
ments to the Duke of Northumberland; and to the 
Dukes of Cambridge and Wellington, the Lord Chan- 
cellor, the Archbishops, and finally to the Foreign Min- 
isters, of whom there were four present, the Hanoverian, 
Saxon, Prussian, and papa, (the American). I thought 
the speech extremely good, though rather too long. 
Afterward, several degrees of 'Doctor of Laws' were 
conferred; among others on the Foreign Ministers. 
Papa as well as all the other doctors, wore a red gown. 
After these ceremonies were over, we left the Senate 
House, being very much tired at sitting five hours. 

" In the afternoon we walked in the beautiful grounds 
of Magdalen (pronounced Maudlin) College, where 
there was a reception of company and a band of 



" 5th. — This morning, before breakfast, papa and I 
walked in the beautiful grounds belonging to Trinity 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 239 

College ; they are delightful ; the little river Cam^ 
covered with stone bridges, (from whence the name 
Cambridge,) runs through the grounds, and gives them 
a very fine and cool look ; then the long rows of vener- 
able trees, meeting in the form of a Gothic arch, add 
gi'eatly to the effect. The little rif er is poetically called 
' Granta.' After a pleasant walk, we retm-ned to the 
house, took breakfast, and prepared ourselves again for 
the Senate House. 

" It was even more crowded than yesterday, but the 
weather being much cooler, we suffered no incon- 
venience ; and on the platform, where we sat, we had 
plenty of room. We did not wait long for the exer- 
cises ; they began with conferring some doctor's degrees 
in theology and medicine, with very peculiar cere- 
monies, at which few people could refrain from smiling, 
not to say laughing. When this was over some of the 
students recited prize poems of their own composition. 
One young man had gained a prize for three poems, 
one English and two Latin, and delivered them most 
beautifully, with a voice so well modulated I He re- 
ceived three prizes from the Chancellor's hand. After 
the recitations, an installation ode, highly compliment- 
ary to the Duke of Northumberland, was sung; this 
was followed by the national anthem, ' God save the 
Queen,' at the close of which there was a glorious 
cheering for the Queen and the Prince, and then the 
company left the house. 

" In the afternoon we went to see Trinity College 
Library, where they showed us the manuscripts of New- 
ton, jNIilton, Bacon, etc., all extremely interesting ; there 
are about fifty thousand books in the library. We 
saw, also, Newton's telescope, a rude one I was told. 
On leaving the library, we went to a rural party in the 



240 MEMO IE OF 

grou'nds of St. John's College, which are even prettier 
than those of Trinity. We first partook of a very- 
elegant collation, in an immense tent erected for the 
purpose, and then walked round the grounds, paid our 
respects to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, 
and spoke to our acquaintances. There were two tents 
erected for dancing, with regular floors, and we had 
some very pleasant dances. Refreshments, besides the 
collation, were served all the afternoon ; and the weather 
was delightful, though a little cool. We staid till about 
eight, and then, when it began to grow damp, we re- 
turned to the Lodge. In the evening there were fire- 
works at another college, but being very tired we did not 
go there. Miss B., the daughter of the Bishop of London, 
who is staying here, and I amused ourselves with look- 
ing at some caricatures, and afterwards Mr. R. M. again 
sung us some charming pieces. So happily ended the 
day." 

" 6th. — The ceremonies of the Listallation being 
now almost over, wholly as regards the Senate House, 
we determined to see a little of Cambridge to-day. 
The Master of Trinity went out with us, and took us 
to see an old round church, of a kind of which, I be- 
lieve, there are only four remaining in England. This 
one is of the eleventh or twelfth century, and a good 
deal in ruins ; they are now restoring it, and mean to 
have a service there when it is done. The master next 
took us to see the chapel of Jesus College ; this is a 
small college, but very pleasantly situated, and the 
chapel is interesting from its age, though it has no 
peculiar beauty. W^e mounted to the top of this 
college, Miss B. and myself, and saw a very pretty 
view. 

" We then went to Sidney and Sussex College, where 




ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 241 



Oliver Cromwell was educated. We saw a portrait 



and a bust of him in the Lodge, and both had a most 
stern, even an unamiable look. The chapel of this col- 
lege is small, but very pretty ; and the college was 
founded by the Puritans, about the end of the sixteenth. 
century, among the many other good things they did. 
Harvard, the founder of our University at Cambridge^, 
was educated in Emanuel College, and Sir Isaac New- 
ton, in Trinity. Milton belonged to Christ's College 
We stepped into Trinity College Chapel as we returned,, 
which was built in the time of Queen Mary. In the 
antechapel there is the famous statue of Newton by 
Roubilliac. We returned to Trinity Lodge for lunch- 
eon, and in the afternoon, again went out to see more 
sights. 

" We went first to the Geological Museum, where we^ 
found Professor Sedgwick, the eminent geologist, who 
explained every thing to us so clearly that I am sure I 
could study geology with pleasure, if I could have such 
a teacher. We saw some very curious fossil animals,, 
one of which (Ichthyosaurus) looked like a great fish, and 
must have been a most formidable creature when alive.. 
There were many other strange and interesting fossil 
animals, too numerous to mention ; and a curious stone^. 
which bent backwards and forwards in a flexible way^ 
In this Museum we saw a plaster bust of the new 
Chancellor, just finished, but it did not look much like 
him. 

" On leaving this Museum we went into King's Col- 
lege Chapel, which mamma had not yet seen. Its rich- 
ness and beauty struck her as much as it did me. We 
then mounted to the top, only a hundred and thirty- 
steps, and stood over the arched vault, and under the 
roof, in a space between. From a little window, on. 

21 



242 MEMOIR OF 

one side of this place, was a fine view of the college 
grounds. We then went a little higher, and stood upon 
the top of the exterior roof. It was not a very pleasant 
place to stand on, to be sure, but the view was splendid, 
embracing all the college buildings and adjacent coun- 
try. When our heads were a little giddy we came 
down, and returned to the Lodge." 

" 7th. — Papa and I took our last walk in the beauti- 
ful grounds of Trinity and St. John's yesterday morn- 
ing, as w^e knew we could not walk to-day. They were 
lovely as ever, and looked so calm and still that I could 
hardly bear to think of exchanging them for noisy Lon- 
don. I could live very happily, I think, in this beauti- 
ful place, which, besides its native attractions, has so 
many pleasant associations. But we must leave it and 
perhaps never see it again. 

" We started in our post-carriage at a little after nine 
from Cambridge, and arrived at the railroad depot at 
twelve. We found the cars were not to go till half past 
two, and so we had to wait a long time at the inn; 
however, I had my book and work, and we took 
luncheon. 

" We found every thing safe on our anival and the 
children delighted to see us. So ends our agreeable ex- 
cursion to Cambridge." 

"15th. — We went this morning to a concert given 
by subscription for the benefit of the poor, suffering 
Polish exiles ; a most laudable charity. The Duke and 
Duchess of Sutherland had most kindly offered their 
splendid mansion for the purpose ; and the concert was 
accordingly arranged in the grand hall, the music and 
singers be\ng between the staircases. The hall was 
beautifully festooned with natural flowers, and with 
its rich gilding and ornament, looked as well by day- 



I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 243 

light as by candlelight, and that is saying a good 
deal. 

" The Italian and German companies of singers had 
offered their services. I heard Rubini, whom I have 
been so anxious to hear, for the first time, and much as 
I had heard of his singing, I do not think I was disap- 
pointed. His voice is certahily exquisite, divine. I 
think that in his high notes he is not superior to 
Moriani, but I never heard any thing like the sweetness 
and expression of his low notes. I should not have im- 
agined that the human voice had such powers. The 
concert concluded with ' God save the Queen,' and the 
performers were loudly cheered. After the concert we 
walked a little around the splendid apartments, and 
looked at the fine paintings. The rooms opening to 
the garden looked beautifully, and the whole mansion 
is as pleasant and agreeable as it is magnificent." 

"21st. — We went this afternoon to a dejeuner^ given 
by the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, at Syon 
House, a country-seat about nine miles from London. 
We arrived about five o'clock, and drove through a 
most extensive and beautiful park, with fine old trees, 
and a little river running through it. The house is a 
noble mansion, presenting a front of two hundred feet, 
and within elegantly furnished with statuary, paintings, 
etc. Presently we went to walk in the varied and ex- 
tensive grounds. The flower-garden is laid out beauti- 
fully, and in the midst of it is a conservatory, of an 
immense extent, filled with rare and choice plants. 
There are a great number of fine old trees about the 
grounds, among others, walnut trees raised from nuts 
brought by the late Duke from our own country. On 
the bank of the river were some black swans, which are 
very pretty creatures. 



244 MEMOIR OF 

" After making the tour, we stood awhile on the lawn 
in front of the house, which was the principal rendez- 
vous of the company. About six, we were summoned 
to breakfast, in an elegant tent erected for the pur- 
pose and richly decorated. There were six long tables, 
three on each side, and a semicircular table in the 
centre, at which sat our host and hostess, such of the 
Royal family as were present, with other guests, among 
them ourselves. 

" The entertainment was extremely recherche and 
elegant, the tables ornamented with French bonbons and 
beautiful fruit, etc., and a hot dinner served of the finest 
kind. After the dinner, or breakfast, as it ^vas called, 
we left the tent and walked round a little, and then sat 
down on the lawn, and listened to the band. They 
played several national airs very finely. When it grew 
dark, there were some magnificent fireworks on the lawn 
in front of the house ; rockets, with stars, wheels, burn- 
ing temples, serpents, and vases, of the most brilliant 
description. The weather was very fine, and the air 
clear ; and the moon shining brightly, rather added to, 
than diminished the effect. 

" This fete was decidedly the handsomest of the sea- 
son, that I have seen, and the only thing that took away 
a little from the gayety of it, was everybody's being 
in black or white, as court mourning for the late Duke 
of Orleans, Prince Royal of France. We left when the 
fireworks were over, but many of the company staid 
much later, dancing in the great tent. The Park was 
illuminated as we drove through it, and had a very 
pleasing effect. We reached home a little after eleven." . 

" Eton College. 24th July. — We received an invita- 
tion some time ago to come here from the head-master, 



ANNE GORIIAM EVERETT. 245 

Dr. Hawtrey, and his sister, Miss H. It is a sort of 
celebration, called ' Election,' which is to take place to- 
morrow ; and yesterday there were a boat procession 
and fireworks, but unfortunately we could not come till 
to-day. 

. . . . " We were received very kindly by Dr. and 
Miss H., and after breakfast, we proceeded to church 
in St. George's Chapel, which belongs to Windsor Cas- 
tle ; which is very near. The Prince of Wales was 
christened in this Chapel, and it is really a splendid 
one. The sides are lined with the stalls of the Knights 
of the Garter ; and the banners of the different knights 
hang on each side. At the end of the hall is a very 
fine picture, and opposite to it the grand organ, which 
has an exceedingly rich tone. In this church is the 
tomb and monument of the Princess Charlotte of 
Wales ; the design of it is pleasing and tasteful. The 
Queen and Prince Albert attended the service, both 
dressed in deep mourning for the late Duke of Orleans. 

" In the afternoon, we attended service in Eton Col- 
lege Chapel, which though ancient has nothing re- 
markable about it. It was a very pretty sight to see 
the boys, who are scholars, march in and take their 
places for the service. They looked very happy. 

" After the service, papa took mamma and me to 
walk in the pretty college play-ground, with noble trees 
scattered over it, and the river Thames winding through. 
Though not equal to the grounds at Cambridge, yet 
they perhaps produce as pleasing an effect. 

" They bring strongly to your mind, ' Gray's Ode ' on 
a ' distant view of Eton College.' There is a fine 
view of the noble old Towers of Windsor from these 
grounds." 

Passing over her account of the exercises at the col- 
21* 



246 MEMOIR OF 

lege, which she attended the next day, and her visit to 
the library, we come to her description of Windsor. 

" 26th. — Papa and I took a walk before breakfast 
this morning, as the weather was delightful. We 
walked up to the Castle, and nearly made the circuit of 
it. It is truly an immense pile, as large as a small 
city ; and the round tower at the entrance, perched on 
a steep ascent, with the Royal flag floating from its 
summit, has a most picturesque appearance. 

" After breakfast, we went to view the interior of the 
Castle, where the Queen is at present residing. We 
w^ere fortunate enough to meet with Mr. Murray, the 
Master of the Household, a friend of ours, who was so 
kind as to show us the private apartments, which are 
not generally accessible. In the public rooms are many 
good pictures ; a great many by Rubens, Holbein, Van 
Dyke, and other great masters. The apartments them- 
selves are most gorgeous. The great ballroom is 
richly gilt and lined with mirrors, and commands a 
beautiful view of Windsor Park, Eton, etc. In this 
room is a splendid vase, presented to the Queen by the 
Emperor of Russia. The throne room is equally 
superb, though a great deal of the furniture is covered 
up. The King of Prussia, at his late visit, was in- 
stalled a Knight of the Garter here. 

" St. George's Hall is a grand room, two hundred 
feet long, and contains the coats of arms of all the 
Knights of the Garter from King Edward III., the 
founder of the Order, down to the present time. These 
escutcheons cover the ceiling, and there is room for 
many succeeding knights on the sides. In this hall was 
given the great banquet at the christening of the Prince 
of Wales. The Waterloo gallery is filled with the por- 
traits of distinguished personages ; but, perhaps the 



AXXE GORHAM EVERETT. 247 

most interesting room of all, is a chamber full of armor, 
and containing a portion of the mast of the Victory, — 
the ship in which Nelson fell ; — pierced through with 
a cannon ball. It really excited strong emotion to look 
at it. 

" In this room is also a shield, wrought by Benvenuto 
Cellini, and given to King Henry VII I., by King Fran- 
cis L, at the ' field of the cloth of gold.' It is very 
richly wrought and inlaid with gold. The bedroom 
occupied by the King of Prussia is lined with blue silk, 
has some fine pictures, and a very comfortable look. 
The library is a noble room, commanding a fine pros- 
pect, and has a great many nice little recesses, where 
one could sit and read very pleasantly. We saw here 
Bibles in every language of the world, almost. The 
private apartments, also, have an air of great comfort as 
well as elegance. We saw two or three drawing- 
rooms, opening into the beautiful park and garden, and 
a dining-room rich with gilding and mirrors. In this 
room is a magnificent vase of gold plate, which, on the 
night of the Prince's christening, was filled with claret. 
Next to the drawing-room, is a pretty little room, where 
the Queen takes her luncheon. The great corridor, 
which runs several hundred feet along two sides of the 
building, is one of the most splendid rooms that can be 
imagined; richly gilt, with fine old antique cabinets, 
and hung with fine pictures, it presents a brilliant coup 
d^ceil. From this fine apartment, Mr. Murray took us 
into the room where the gold plate is kept ; and this is 
beyond expression rich ; the variety of salvers, dishes, 
plates, candlesticks, and centre ornaments, baffles de- 
scription ! There is one piece just completed, for a 
centre ornament, representing three of the Queen's 
favorite dogs, in silver gilt like the others, and beauti- 



248 MEMOIR OF 

fully executed. There is a jewelled and gold peacock, 
brought, with other spoils, from India, by Lord Welles- 
ley, with many other rich pieces of gold plate, impos- 
sible to mention or even to remember. It is a pity that 
all this magnificent plate should be kept, as it is, in a 
small, confined room, and not placed where every- 
body can see it. Mr. Murray afterwards took us to see 
the kitchen, which is very extensive and airy, and where 
they were busily preparing dinner. Here we finished 
our survey of the Castle ; many of the things we could 
not have seen unless Mr. Murray had been with us. 
Windsor is truly a Royal residence. It was begun by 
Edward HI., and a great deal was done to it under 
George IV. ; he it was who began the magnificent cor- 
ridor, but he did not live to see it finished. 

" After leaving Windsor, we drove out to Stoke, a 
place a few miles from Eton, and which contains the 
churchyard where Gray is supposed to have written his 
' Elegy.' We were invited there by a Mr. Penn, whose 
father, now quite old, is a grandson of William Penn, 
who first settled Pennsylvania. Interesting memorials 
of him are preserved by the family, among others, is a 
picture by West, representing William Penn, as mak- 
ing the treaty with the Indians under the shadow of a 
spreading plane-tree. They also showed us in the hall 
a piece of the trunk of this very tree, carefully pre- 
served. The family consists of the father, who is 
eighty years old, and quite infirm, his wife, son, and 
daughters. The house, which is large and handsome, 
was built by the brother of the present owner ; it com- 
mands a fine view of Windsor Castle. Gray's church- 
yard is not far from Mr. Penn's house, and belongs, I 
think, to the estate. It is small, and looks old and ven- 
erable ; and you feel the truth of his description, — 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 249 

' Beneath tliose nodding elms, that yew tree's shade, 
Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap, 
Each in his narrow cell, forever laid, 
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.' 

" The church is small, but has some fine painted glass 
windows, put there by Mr. Penn, and taken from an old 
family mansion of his ancestors, now pulled down. 
Gray, with his mother and aunt, lies buried in the 
churchyard; and near it on an eminence, is a monu- 
ment erected to his memory by Mr. Penn, with some of 
the^ poet's own verses inscribed on its sides. The 
whole scene, where in addition to the associations with 
Gray, you are surrounded with memorials of William 
Penn, is highly interesting. 

" After luncheon we went back to Eton about half 
past four, and prepared ourselves to return home, as we 
were to go in the cars a little after six." 

Returning safely to London, the next day she went 
to see Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury, the primate of England. Among 
the interesting things she saw here, she mentions the 
Coronation chairs of the late King William IV., and 
of Queen Victoria, which are always given to the Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury. " May it be a long time," she 
exclaims, "before an archbishop has another!" A few 
days afterwards, she visited Hampton Court. It is an 
immense building, begun by Cardinal Wolsey, and in 
the dining-room, which is hung with Gobelin tapestry, 
the arms and titles of the unhappy Cardinal are now 
ostentatiously emblazoned. 

In visiting these palaces, Anne had ample opportunity 
of gratifying her taste for the fine arts. Of all their 
grandeur and magnificence, their paintings and statuary 
attracted her chief admiration. She remarks : " If I 



250 MEMOIR OP 

were to wish for a fortune, it would be to purchase pic- 
tures." After enumerating many of the fine paintings 
she saw at Hampton, she says : " We then went into 
the room where are hung the celebrated cartoons of 
Raphael, from which the tapestry in the Vatican at 
Rome, which we had seen, is wrought. These cartoons 
are more or less injured, all of them, as they were very 
ill treated after they had been once copied. Horrible it 
is, indeed, to think that the works' of Raphael should 
have been neglected, torn, and defaced, like any com- 
mon pictures ; but now they hang very well, and will 
no doubt long be preserved safe. Their beauties, like 
those of all his works, are not to be described in words, 
and they need more careful examination than we then 
had time to give them. 

" There are also many pictures of Coreggio, with all 
his delicacy and softness of shading ; and some of 
Titian, with his fine rich color ; also many of Guercino 
and Guido. 

" After surveying the pictures, in which we were 
much incommoded by the crowd, we went down into 
the gardens, which, though a little formal, are very 
beautiful and agreeable. In one part of them is an 
enormous grape-vine, the largest, perhaps, in Europe, 
coming all from one root, trained in the nicest manner, 
and covering the wall of an immense grape-house. 
One year it bore, they say, one thousand nine hundred 
pounds weight of grapes. The man who showed it, 
said it was seventy-four years old. It is altogether a 
wonderful vine. The grapes were just beginning to 
turn purple. After we had taken one or two turns in 
the garden, we bade adieu to the grand old Palace of 
Hampton Court. Though a Royal palace, the Queen 
never resides there ; and the inhabited apartments are 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 251 

occupied by families who live there, rent free, by per- 
mission." 

The middle of August, Anne passed several days de- 
lightfully at Oxford ; staying at the house of the cele- 
brated Dr. Buckland, one of the canons of Christ Church 
College. While here she visited the various colleges, 
halls, and chapels, and enjoyed in several of them, as 
usual, a feast of fine old paintings. While here she 
visited Blenheim Castle. The magnificent rooms of 
the palace, its splendid library and chapel, ornamented 
with elegant statues and paintings, are all described by 
her in glowing terms. She adds : " Blenheim Park is 
on the site of the ancient Woodstock, where Henry II. 
hid fair Rosamond, and where Sir Walter has placed 
the scene of his interesting novel. They showed us the 
old oak, a thousand years old, under which Charles and 
Everard were to fight ; and also Rosamond's well, 
where the King first met Alice Lee. It is a clear, fresh, 
sweet spring, gushing out of the side of a hill, in the 
same manner, I suppose, as it did in Rosamond's time. 
We drank some of the water, and took some away in a 
phial to preserve ; I have since sealed it up, and hope 
to take it to America. We looked at the monument 
erected in memory of the battle of Blenheim, and then 
through the beautiful park back to Oxford." 

She visited here the Botanic Garden, the immense 
Bodleian Library, and finally the picturesque seat of the 
Archbishop of York, Nunc ham Park. After the view 
of the noble mansion, she thus describes their drive in 
the park : " A boundless variety of hill, dale, forest, and 
water is continually presented to the eye in quick suc- 
cession, and in lovely contrast ; the place is really the 
most beautiful we have yet seen. There is nothing like 
it in America or France. After walking and driving 



252 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

about these delicious grounds, and seeing Oxford from 
several jDoints of view, we walked over the flower and 
kitchen gardens, greenhouses, etc., and then looked at a 
beautiful little house built for a steward, and pic- 
turesquely situated among the trees. 

" A little after seven we went into the house. A 
large and elegant dinner party followed ; and about ten 
we ordered our carriage to return to Oxford, as we are 
to start very early to-morrow for London. We had 
enjoyed our visit very much at this delightful place, and 
were invited by the Archbishop and his daughter to 
visit them in Yorkshire." 

" 18th August. — We took leave of Dr. B. and of his 
most hospitable and singular house. Its occupant being 
a zealous geologist, every room is crowded with his 
stones and specimens ; the dining-room is so incum- 
bered with them that but little space is left, and side- 
board, chairs, and tables are heaped in the same manner. 
The freshness of the early morning was beautiful. The 
cars started from the station at Steventon a little after 
eight, and reached London at half past ten." 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Tower of london — thames tunnel — visits in the country — 

BELVOIR castle WENTWORTH HOUSE — BISHOPSTHORPE PALACE 

— THE GRANGE. 



" It is sure, 
Stamped by the seal of nature, that the well 
Of mind, where all its watei's gather pure, 
Shall, with unquestioned spell, all hearts allure. 
Wisdom enshrined in beauty — Oh ! how high 
The order of that loveliness." 



" 2d September. — After the rain of yesterday it has; 
been exceedingly warm to-day ; but, as we had formed 
a project for going to see the Tower of London, we did 
not let the heat deter us. We accordingly went about 
half past two, and proceeded through the city, perform- 
ing the long drive in about an hour. 

" One wing of the Tower was burnt down last year ; 
the cause of the fire is not knoAvn ; but a great part 
still remains standing, and it is really a little city in it- 
self, there being accommodation for one thousand per- 
sons within its walls. We entered the inner court 
through the gloomy Arch of Traitor's Gate, over which; 
is the Bloody Tower, where the two young Princes,, 
sons of Edward IV., were smothered; and meeting 
with one of the wardens, he conducted us to the- 
Armory, in the White Tower, the most ancient of the 

22 



254 MEMOIR OF 

buildings. Here there are many statues of the old 
Kings of England on horseback, dressed in the armor 
they wore in their lifetime ; some of the horses, also, of 
the earlier monarchs, were in complete armor. The 
whole apparatus, indeed, must have been rather \\^eighty 
for a steed to carry. All this armor is very beautifully 
and neatly arranged, and a large quantity of swords, 
muskets, and pistols are placed round the walls in the 
form of stars and other figures, very prettily. 

" The chamber in which Sir Walter Raleigh was 
confined for twelve years, is in the White Tower, and 
though now lighted by several windows, was, in his 
days, dark and gloomy. Yet he contrived to write his 
history here. In this room are a beheading block, used 
in 1745, the axe that beheaded Queen Anne Boleyn, 
and a statue of Queen Elizabeth on horseback. There 
are, also, many other interesting things in this room, 
such as instruments of torture, etc., too numerous to 
mention. 

" We went over the burnt part of the Tower, and 
among other things saved from the fire, is one of the 
oldest existing fire-arms, used at the battle of Crecy ; 
also some large pieces of ordnance taken at Waterloo. 
In one part of the ruins, were placed for sale some 
relics saved from the fire, and papa bought an old spear 
head by way of a trophy. 

'^ We then went to see the crown jewels and regalia, 
which are deposited in a small room by themselves, and 
are magnificent in the extreme. The crown of the 
present Queen is very rich, and sparkling with jewels, 
containing the largest ruby and sapphire known. There 
are the sceptre, the gold saltcellars, used at a coronation 
feast, the sword of justice, and all the other regalia 
of the sovereigns of England. A small crown and 



ANNE GOKHAM EVERETT. 255 

sceptre, made for Queen Anne Boleyn, are very pretty. 
After looking at the jewels we walked into the court- 
yard, and were shown the very spot where the lovely 
and unfortunate Lady Jane Grey was beheaded ; also 
the tower in which she was confined before her execu- 
tion. Several other towers Avere also pointed out to us, 
all of which are mentioned in a very interesting tale 
called the ' Tower of London,' which we read last year, 
and of which Lady Jane is the heroine." .... 

"7th. — We went down into the city again to-day, 
to see the Thames Tunnel, which we have never visited 
before. It is a great way off, being below all the 
bridges. When we arrived at the Wapping terminus, 
as it may properly be called, we went into a small 
house, and descended ninety-nine steps under the river,, 
to the entrance of the tunnel. We then began to walk 
through its length. It is a double archway, for footpas- 
sengers, carriages, etc., paved in a solid manner with 
brick and Roman cement, and lighted with gas. From 
Wapping to Rotherhithe, the other side of the river, its 
length is twelve hundred feet. It is truly a stupendous 
work, and one can hardly help feeling a sensation of 
awe, at walking thus deep under the bed of a river, and 
knowing that the water is flowing above and around 
you. The tunnel is, as may be expected, very damp, 
the moisture being apparent on the brick walls. 

" The double archway is not yet quite completed, and 
only one side is at present open, but the other, we were 
told, will be opened in about four months. Carriages 
and other vehicles are, I believe, to descend into the 
tunnel by a spiral inclined plane. The keeper, whom 
we saw at the upper end, was quite a talker. He men- 
tioned Mr. Webster's visit to the tunnel, two or three 
years ago. He showed us a beautiful little representa- 



256 MEMOIR OF 

tion of the tunnel in an illuminated transparency, 
arranged with a camera obscura, which magnified the 
length ; they were for sale and papa bought one. We 
saw, at the Rotherhithe end, the great engine used in 
pumping up the water ; and having fully explored this 
wonderful work, we retraced our steps to ' upper day,' 
and drove home. The tunnel was begun in 1825, and 
at one time the works were suspended for seven years, 
for want of funds." 

" 17th. — We received a day or two ago, our semi- 
monthly letters from America, and the joyful news of 
the Treaty of Washington, and the passage of the 
Tariff Bill. After all the unfavorable accounts, these 
last are eminently agreeable. A Secretary of Legation 
has also been appointed to this court, — Mr. R. of Vir- 
ginia. Our private news is all good, and grandpapa's 
health is slowly improving. 

" Next Wednesday we leave London for the purpose 
of passing a short time in the country, and paying visits 
at several seats. We go first to the Duke of Rutland's, 
Belvoir Castle, where ^ve stay about a week, and from 
thence to various other places." 

These visits in the country proved even more delight- 
ful to Anne than she had anticipated ; their cordial re- 
ception, and the marked attentions she received as the 
young lady of the party, were very gratifying to her. 
It should be remarked that her conversational powers 
were now fully developed. Her mind was always en- 
gaged in what was passing around her ; never suffering 
herself to fall into abstractions or reveries in society. 
This habit of mind, with her store of general informa- 
tion, as well as deeper learning, and her natural spright- 
liness, gave her an uncommon advantage in the art of 
conversation, and made her a most agreeable companion 



AXXE GORHAM EVERETT. 257 

in the social circle, and an easy winner of friends. Her 
journal, as usual, was her faithful companion ; we will, 
however, lay it aside and draw her description of Bel- 
voir Castle from the following letter : — 

[To P. C] 

"Boston, 28tli September, 1842. 

" .... I received a letter from you not long ago, 
my dear P., of the 15th August, I think ; but as I have 
not it by me, I cannot be sure. We are now travelling 
in the provinces, and left London the 21st of this month 
for Belvoir Castle, the magnificent seat of the Duke of 
Rutland. The English nobility and gentry almost al- 
ways have a number of persons staying with them at 
their country-seats. They would otherwise be lonely in 
their vast palaces and castles. Belvoir Castle (pro- 
nounced Beaver) is situated on an eminence, and sur- 
rounded in part, by a fine forest. It commands a noble 
prospect, especially from the highest tower, which I 
mounted ; from this tower floats a standard, when the 
Duke is at the castle. The suite of apartments we 
occupied was situated in a tower, from which we had a 
line view of the adjacent country; the rooms were 
fitted up ^vith the utmost comfort and elegance. I 
generally rose about seven in the morning, which is my 
usual hour, and read or wrote till a quarter past nine, 
when we all assembled in the chapel for prayers. The 
chapel is a handsome room, with a fine picture over the 
altar. After prayers, which were read by the chaplain 
we went into the breakfast rx^oiTi. After breakfast peo- 
ple did what they liked; some walked, some rode or 
drove, some staid at home and wrote letters ; and if it 
rained they played billiards, or something of that sort. 

22* 



258 MEMOIR OF 

At two o'clock we sat down to luncheon, a pretty sub- 
stantial meal. After luncheon we generally took a 
drive in an open carriage and four horses, with two 
postilions ; some rode, who did not care to drive, and 
some preferred walking. We returned to the castle 
about five or half past, and dressed for dinner in low- 
necked dresses and short sleeves, the dinner hour being 
seven o'clock. 

" The dining-room is a noble hall, brilliantly lighted, 
(in the lamp-room we saw a statement that nine gallons 
of oil are consumed in the castle in one evening,) and 
presenting a fine appearance as you enter. The table 
was covered with splendid gilt and silver plate, and the 
dishes for the food and the plates from which we ate 
were silver. We rose from table a little before nine, 
and went into the drawing-room, where we had tea and 
coffee handed round ; and then we played chess or back- 
gammon, or amused ourselves in any other way till 
about eleven o'clock, when we went to bed. On Sun- 
day evening prayers were again read in the chapel by 
the chaplain, and we went to bed rather earlier that 
night. This is a fair specimen of the manner in which 
you pass your time in an English country-house. In 
winter, which is the principal season for visiting in the 
country, Belvoir Castle, I am told, is filled with guests, 
and thirty persons sit down to dinner a considerable 
part of the season. The Duke kindly invited us to 
come again in winter. 

" The castle is a magnificent building; it is modern, 
the old one being entirely burnt in 1816. There is a 
large picture-gallery, full of fine pictures ; and several 
grand drawing-rooms, galleries, and state apartments. 
Even the cellars are worth seeing, which were stowed 
with large barrels of ale, all brewed in the castle. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 259 

Though the establishment is so very extensive, yet it 
is all conducted in the most exact and orderly manner. 

'• We went all over, also, the kitchen-garden, the 
stables, poultry yard, dairy, kennel, and farm. The 
poultry have a nice green yard, filled with flowers, to 
run about in, and seem very happy. In the dairy, which 
is prettily situated among trees, at the foot of a hill, is 
a large fountain constantly playing, which keeps every 
thing cool. In the kennel are lodged fifty-two pairs of 
hounds, beautiful dogs, which go out with the gentle- 
men to hunt the fox, for the English, you know, are 
great hunters and sportsmen. 

" The mode of life is very different from ours in 
America, and yet I like it, perhaps because it is new ; 
but you need not tell anybody that I say so ; else very 
likely, they will say I give myself airs, and forget 
my country, which I know you will not attribute to me. 
The best part of Belvoir is the Duke and his family. 
They are not in the least cold and formal, as some of 
the English are, but were as kind to us, and as easy as 
possible, and seemed really sorry to have us go. I dare 
say now, I have been too prolix in my description of 
Belvoir Castle, for, perhaps, it will not interest you as 
much as it does me. 

" We left Belvoir Castle the 27th. I forgot to men- 
tion that there are in the estate about 40,000 acres, and 
that you may ride for miles without going out of the 
Duke's territories. We proceeded to Boston, from 
which our own city takes its name, but which is by no 
means as large as ours, having only eleven thousand 
inhabitants. There is an old church here, whose 
steeple is one of the highest in England, and com- 
mands a fine view, although the building stands on low 
ground. 



260 , MEMOIR OF 

" We have been up to the top of the old church, three 
hundred and forty-nine steps, many of them being so 
narrow and worn, that I am not sure it was not danger- 
ous to undertake it. However, here we are safe down, 
and we were rewarded for our toilsome ascent, by the 
beauty and extent of the prospect, which embraced a 
wide expanse of country, extending on the east to the 
North Sea, or German Ocean, and on the west, south 
and north far into the interior. Except this church, 
there is not much interesting in Boston, and it appears 
to be rather a dull place. We leave Boston to-morrow 
and go to W^entworth, the seat of Earl Fitzwilliam, 
passing through Lincoln on our way." 

" Wentworth House, 1st October. 

'' We arrived last night at this magnificent seat. The 
house, as you drive up to it, presents a front of six hun- 
dred feet, and is surrounded by a most beautiful park 
and grounds. The house is furnished with great splen- 
dor, and contains fine pictures and statuary. We stay 
here two or three days, and then go to pay a visit at 
the Archbishop of York's ; we shall go quite to the 
north and then to the west of England, and probably 
not return to London till the 18th or 19th October. 

" Papa says the letters for America must be ready 
very soon, so I must now say good-by, my dearest P., 
with wishing you all kinds of happiness." 

" BiSHOPSTHORPE Palace, near York. 

Journal. "4th October. — We arrived here at half 
past five, having left Wentworth about half past one. 
We drove to the station at Masborough, and there took 
the railroad to the city of York, which we reached 



I 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 261 

before five. The old wall of the city has a venerable 
appearance as you enter, and the view of the noble 
Cathedral or Minster is very striking as seen from the 
gate. When we left the cars, we had post-horses put 
to our carriage, and drove out to Bishopsthorpe, about 
two miles from the city. We were received very kindly, 
and found an agreeable party staying here. One lady 
sang some very beautiful songs in the evening. 

" This morning, before breakfast, we read some letters 
just received from America by the steamer, in which 
they mention that Uncle S. and Aunt F. are coming to 
England, and that we shall see them in a few weeks. 
This is very good news, though I am sorry to say that 
Uncle S. comes on account of bad health. Uncle E. 
and wife take our house in town. 

" At half past nine the Archbishop read prayers in 
the Chapel, and at ten we had breakfast. About 
twelve, I went out to take a short walk with Miss V., 
the Archbishop's granddaughter, a very pleasing young 
lady. We walked about the garden and pleasure- 
grounds for about half an hour. The place is pretty, 
but by no means so extensive and beautiful as Nune- 
ham, the Archbishop's other seat near Oxford. We 
took a hasty luncheon at half past one, and then drove 
out to see the races, which are taking place in York at 
this season. 

" We staid to see two courses, but I cannot say that 
I was much interested in them, though they were well 
conducted, for it always seemed to me a cruel amuse- 
ment. We left the race-course a little before four, and 
drove into York to the old Cathedral, or Minster. We 
heard the service performed, with a most magnificent 
anthem, and after it was over we walked round the 
Cathedral. It is truly a grand and sublime building, 



262 MEMOIR OF 

and the number of colored glass windows in it is really 
astonishing. 

" About thirteen years ago, it was set on fire by a 
madman, in the most deliberate manner, and severely 
injured. It was, however, restored very handsomely. 
About a year and a half ago, it again took fire ; this 
time, accidentally, and a considerable part was burnt. 
They are now engaged in repairing it, but it will prob- 
ably be some time before it is done, as there seems 
some difficulty about raising the money. The church 
is indeed the grandest I ever saw, and he must 
have been mad indeed, who could have set fire to it. 
The chapter house is beautiful and is to be restored ; 
the painted windows and rich carving give an inde- 
scribable effect of grandeur and magnificence. It was 
too late and damp to go into the vault, where the re- 
mains of the very old church before the present one, 
are to be seen. We returned to the house just in time 
for dinner. In the evening there was a ball in the city 
of York, which papa, mamma, and I declined attending, 
and went to bed at our usual hour. I think we have 
quite enough balls in the London season." 

"6th October. — This morning we took a walk in 
the grounds, while some of the party went to York to 
attend a nieeting convened for the purpose of raising 
money to rebuild the Cathedral. Several gentlemen 
made speeches ; among others, they got papa to make 
one, which everybody applauded, and which I should 
like to have heard, but in the morning, we had been told 
there was nothing worth hearing at the meeting ; and, 
as usually follows from taking such advice, we re- 
pented it. 

" In the afternoon we went into the city to see the 
Museum of Natural History, which is a very good one. 






ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 263 

with curious fossils and some fine birds. Near the 
Museum are the ruins of the old Abbey of St. Mary, 
which are very picturesque and beautiful, and seen 
among the gi'een trees have a most charming effect. 
Not far from them are the remains of the ancient 
Roman wall of the city, with many old stone coffins 
lying around, recently discovered. When we had 
passed through the ruins, we went to look at the School 
for the Blind, which is very much like our institution in 
Boston, though not on so large a scale." .... 

" 7th. — We went into York early this morning to 
see the crypt or vault of the Cathedral, which was 
lighted up for the occasion. It is really very curious, 
and contains the remains of the old Saxon and Nor- 
man churches, which stood on the spot before the 
present church, and there even remain many pieces of 
Roman wall, which would seem to show that the 
Romans had a temple of some kind in the same spot. 
The Roman bricks or stones are of a peculiar oblong 
shape. The old churches were much smaller than the 
present, as one may see by the walls of the old being 
inclosed entirely" in the new. A part of the church- 
yard of the ancient church, with a monument in it, is 
now within the vault. The present edifice, I believe, 
was begun in the year 1220 or thereabout ; I do not 
remember the exact year. In the vestry they showed 
us a gi'eat many curiosities and antiquities, belonging 
to the Minster, many of them found in the tombs of 
the former Archbishops." .... 

The next day, taking leave of the Archbishop and 
his family, they departed for Aukland Castle, the seat 
of the Bishop of Durham. Here they met a most kind 
reception ; and, though so far north, they found roses 
blooming, and the country in full verdure. 



264 MEMOIR OF 

While here she visited the old Cathedral at Durham, 
about ten miles distant from Aukland. " It is a fine 
old Norman building, one of the oldest, perhaps, of the 
Cathedrals in England. The most ancient part of it 
was built by the Saxons, before the Conquest, but the 
greater part of the present structure is Norman, and 
though the style is certainly imposing, yet it is by no 
means as elegant as the architecture of somewhat later 
times. Very few of the windows contain painted glass, 
that having been removed about a hundred years ago ; 
a barbarous deed, certainly, but avaricious people will 
do any thing. The venerable Bede and the famous 
Saint Cuthbert are buried in this church ; and we saw 
some gold ornaments taken out of the tomb of the 
Saint, which are still perfect, though buried with him 
long before the Conquest. I believe he was Bishop 
here and had such a hatred for our sex, that he placed 
a barrier near the entrance of the church, further than 
which he would not let women advance. I don't know 
what he would say, to have known that women would 
hereafter stand upon his very tomb, as we did. 

" After we had gone through the church, we walked 
into the old cloisters and the library, where we saw 
some curious ancient manuscripts and some Roman 
antiquities ; the manuscripts are very curious, and some 
of them very beautiful. From the library Mrs. M. took 
us to see the castle, which was formerly the residence 
of the Bishops of Durham, but is now a college. It 
is a grand old building, though now in a dilapidated 
state ; but some of the apartments are finely carved ; 
it does not look, however, as if it could be made a very 
comfortable residence. The keep of the castle re- 
sembles a good deal the Round Tower at Windsor 
Castle." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 265 

Here a severe disappointment awaited Anne, of which 
she thus wrote : — " When we reached Aukland Castle, 
a letter was received by papa from London, which 
required him to return on important public business. 
So we must give up our journey to the lakes, and go 
back to-morrow. This is exceedingly provoking for 
more reasons than one ; but there is no remedy but 
patience, and all we can hope is, that next year we shall 
be able to come north again, and visit the lakes and 
other places that we have been obliged to omit this 
time." 

The next day she turned her face homeward, bearing 
the trial with her usual cheerfulness ; as she remarks 
upon " the glorious day, warm and clear, the sun shin- 
ing brightly, which it has not done for many days 
before," she exclaimed, " What a day it would have 
been for the lakes ! " Alas ! those lakes she never saw- 
In her second northern tour, nature had already begun 
to yield to the power of disease, and her strength was 
unequal to the fatigue of travelling. 

In the latter part of December she made a visit to 
the country-seat of Lord Ashburton, from whence is. 
dated the following letter. 

[To P. C] 

" The Grange, Hants, 25th December, 1842. 

" Dearest P., — I received a nice long letter from you 
a month or two ago ; in it you mention several new 
engagements in Charlestown; really, it is surprising 
how fast people are getting married. I suppose you- 
will follow suit next, which I own I should be a little 
sorry for, as I could not then expect so much of your- 
attention and thoughts as I now have. A truly wise 

23 



266 MEMOIR OF 

and selfish reason, is it not ? And yet I am sure, that 
were you married you would never neglect me. 
Enough, however, of matrimony. 

" You will perhaps not exactly understand the date 
of my letter. We are now staying for a few days at 
the country-seat of Lord Ashburton, who, you know, 
has just returned from America, after so happily con- 
cluding the Treaty with Mr. Webster. Very likely you 
saw him when he was in the United States. We are 
having a very pleasant visit ; Lady Ashburton and her 
daughters, the Misses Baring, are very agreeable persons, 
and the place is so lovely, it would be impossible not 
to like it. The estate, called the Grange, is very exten- 
sive, consisting of about twelve thousand acres, the 
greater part of which is leased to tenants who cultivate 
it. The house stands on somewhat of a rising ground, 
about in the centre of the estate, and commands on 
every side a beautiful view of hill, forest, valley, and 
the little river Itchin winding through it in a most pic- 
turesque way. We take long walks about the grounds 
every day, and since we came here have been having 
the most delicious weather possible ; one day was as 
clear and bright as any thing I ever saw, and as for cold 
weather, dear me ! we have had nothing of it yet, though 
a month of the winter is nearly gone. The climate of 
England thus far is certainly a most delightful one. 

" We rise here about half past seven or eight, and 
till breakfast, I write or read ; we all assemble at break- 
fast a quarter before ten, and have a very pleasant 
meeting. Then, after breakfast we generally separate. 
The amusements within doors are music, billiards, the 
library, and conversation ; without doors, there is always 
walking, riding, and driving for the ladies; and the 
young gentlemen go hunting or shooting. At luncheon, 



ANNE GORIIAM EVERETT. 267 

which is at half past one, those of the company who 
are in the house, meet; and' then generally disperse 
again till dinner-time. 

" We dine at a quarter before seven. To show you 
the manner of dressing for dinner, I will mention how 
I was dressed one day, first observing that the circle 
here is a small one. I had on a pink Tarletan dress, 
worked in white up the front and round the bottom, 
and worn over pink silk, low neck and short sleeves and 
natural flowers of laurestinus in my hair ; black satin 
shoes, and black net mits, with the usual number of 
bracelets on my arms ; and I was by no means much 
dressed. I might have been dressed more without 
being out of the way; for instance, I might have worn 
ivhite satin shoes and white kid gloves ; but I prefer 
black generally. But to return. We all assemble in 
the drawing-room and then proceed to the dinner table. 
There is the usual array of a dinner party, and as usual, 
the ladies are asked to take wine with the gentlemen. 
I always feel like laughing when asked to take wine, 
and so I told a young gentleman yesterday, and he 
seemed to think there might be some sense in my re- 
mark. The ladies leave the table first, and return to 
the drawing-room, and soon after we are joined by the 
gentlemen, and have tea and coffee ; and then for the 
amusement of the evening, there are cards, dominos, 
chess, and conversation. 

" The English, certainly, as far as 1 know any thing 
of them, are very amiable, pleasant, and hospitable ; 
they have treated us in the kindest rnanner. To-day is 
Christmas day ; and I am sitting writing to you in my 
dressing-grown, just before dinner, while my maid is 
getting ready the dress I am to wear at dinner this 
evening. A bedroom in an English country house is 



268 MEMOIR OP 

charmingly furnished ; by that I mean, so conveniently. 
You have all sorts of sofas, lolling chairs, and footstools, 
a fire all day long, if you wish it, and a table com- 
pletely furnished with writing materials of every kind, 
which is really a necessary of life here, there is always 
so much writing to be done. England is, certainly, a 
very enjoyable country to live in ; but I have not for- 
gotten my own country. I am an American, and shall 
be so to the end of my days. I shall not have time to 
finish my letter here, and so if you do not object I will 
finish it after my return to London." .... 

" 29th. — Here I am again, my dear P., safe at home, 
and sitting at my own table, pen in hand. We left the 
Grange the 27th, and the whole party who were staying 
there, broke up at the same time. We have now 
several dinner and evening engagements on hand, and 
the prospect of some more visits to the country in the 
course of the winter — for the winter is the great time 
for visiting at the English country-seats, and our friends 
are very kind in asking us. If we should make any 
more visits, and you would like to hear about them, 1 
shall be very happy to describe them." 

" 1st January, 1843. — Oh dear ! Here is another 
year ! I can hardly believe that a whole yedr has 
passed since we entered this charming country, and 
since I last said ' Happy New- Year.' I repeat my 
warmest wishes to you, dearest P., for many, many 
happy New-Years ; I am sure I don't know when I 
shall exchange that greeting with you in person ; not for 
a long time, I fear. . When a new year comes, I am very 
apt to think over old times. Do you remember how 
we used to sit together at Mrs. D.'s school, and write, 
write — for ever, books full of child's stories? Do you 
ever write now ? now that you are older and wiser 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 269 

grown. I sometimes amuse myself by writing a little, 
when I have time ; but I always keep my effusions to 
myself. I had great numbers of New- Year's presents 
this year, and am now sitting at a new writing-desk, 
papa's gift. 

" I dare say I have sufficiently wearied you now, dear, 
so I will say good-by, begging you to give my compli- 
ments and kind remembrances to your parents and 
sisters, and also to all my friends you may see." 

23* 



CHAPTER XVII. 



SeCOKD winter in LONDON — EMPLOYMENTS — READING — VIEWS OF 

LONDON DISSIPATION FEEBLE HEALTH VISITS IN THE COUNTRY 

EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. 



Time with such a silent motion 
Floats along on wings of air, 

To eternity's dark ocean, 
Burying all its treasures there. 



We now enter upon the last year of Anne's life. If 
this portrait of her character exhibits at all the symmet- 
rical proportions of the beautiful original; — if her 
bright promise for the future is visible — a future of 
success and accomplishment, of which her progress 
hitherto, and her resolute industry may be considered 
the certain harbingers ; — then are we sure of awaken- 
ing a sympathetic sorrow as the end draws near. A 
brief entry in her journal on the last day of December, 
1842, might be carelessly read, but for the touching 
thought that the last day of another year dawned upon 
her grave. " Notwithstanding the gayety attending the 
giving and receiving the presents, one can hardly help 
feeling serious, too, at the idea that another year has 
passed, and so very rapidly too, as they do pass ! I 
can scarcely believe that it is more than a year since 
we arrived in this country ; it seems but a few months. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 271 

And yet how much we have seen and done since we 
have been here, and how much 1 love this country and 
the people in it I I should once have hardly thought it 
possible that I could be so attached to any land, not 
my own. But, by the blessing of Heaven, I have been 
very happy here, and so I hope to continue for a long 
time. And last Saturday I I cannot help comparing it 
a little to this ; one is engaged in such varying scenes ! 
I was then walking over the beautiful hills in the coun- 
try — but no matter ; all that is passed, and very likely 
I may never see the same persons again. Adieu to 
1842i" 

Her second winter in London passed much more 
happily than the first. She no longer felt like a stran- 
ger ; a melancholy feeling, whether in a vast city or in 
a solitary wilderness. The return of her sister and 
brother from Paris, united her once more in an unbroken 
home circle ; and here she always found her sweetest 
pleasures. With her only sister she enjoyed a most 
harmonious and affectionate companionship. Her sky 
was sometimes dotted with clouds by the short absences 
of her father during the winter, but the sunshine was 
only brighter on his return. 

One day she writes : " I went into the office for 
something, and encountered R., who was showing 
mamma his new sword, with which he is much pleased, 
as the design is his own. When I had duly admired it, 
he insisted in trying how I should look with it on ; so 
he put the belt over my shoulder, and I was still play- 
ing the Amazon to his admiration, with the sword, 
which was much too large for me, dangling by my side, 
when the door was opened, and papa announced. I 
very quickly flew away from R. and his sword, and ran 
to meet papa. We were the more delighted to see 



272 MEMOIR OP 

him, as he came sooner than we had expected. I think 
he is improved by his journey, as he has been free from 
care for so long a time. We all sat down to luncheon 
and enjoyed his company for half an hour." 

Although her mirthfulness has not been often referred 
to, yet it still formed one of the distinguishing elements 
of her character. 

" Her laugh, full of life, witliout any control. 
But the sweet one of gracefulness, rung from her soul ; " 

and the zest with which she participated in a jeu 
d^esprit, made her presence a continual sunshine. 

" Oh I quelle joie^^ she writes as she prepared her 
Valentines for the 14th of February, and was able to 
get one for a young friend, postmarked at Liverpool, as 
if it came from America ! The day arrived. 

" 14th February, 1843. — We had such amusement 
and laughing to-day with our Valentines ; we had some 
as early as eight o'clock in the morning, over which we 
laughed heartily ; and about ten o'clock came that for 
R. which was really a chef d'muvre. I saw him about 
twelve, and he instantly charged me with writing it, 
which I had expected, but which I denied ; as I could 
honestly do. He made me sit down, not believing me, 
and read it to him ; I could hardly keep my counte- 
nance." 

Before the day was over, however, her conscientious- 
ness appears, and she says : " I fear the joke was carried 
rather far, and the deceit too ; I don't think we shall try 
it again." 

For the occupation of her time this winter, we shall 
refer to a letter written to her friend in America. Per- 
haps it will be interesting to say, with respect to her 



ANNE GORHAM EVEEETT. 273 

attainments in Latin and German, that she could now 
read any easy author in Latin " as well as most young 
men at college." She read the German poets with 
ease, and one of the last books which she read with her 
father, and in which the mark still remains where she 
left it, was Schiller's Don Carlos. 

[Letter to P. C] 

" London, 1st April, 1843. 

" . . . . Papa and I have been lately attending a 
course of lectures on Geology, by Mr. Charles I^-yell, 
who, you know, has been lately in America, where you 
very likely heard him. There have been eight lectures, 
and the subjects chosen were exceedingly interesting ; 
among others, coral reefs, coal, volcanoes, and the Falls 
of Niagara. There is a warmth and earnestness about 
him, and such a thorough acquaintance with his subject, 
that he is a very pleasing lecturer. The drawings and 
designs with which he illustrated his lectures, were 
mostly his own, and very beautifully done, and his table 
was always filled with fine specimens of all sorts. 
After each of the lectures, I made a little analysis of it, 
so that I have a little book full of short lectures. 

" My time is very much occupied here, and the days, 
though they are getting long, seem too short for all I 
want to do. We walk every day with papa ; this is as 
much for health as for pleasure ; then we have our 
studies in the morning, which Ave do not like to give 
up, as long as we can pursue them ; we have luncheon 
at one ; and after luncheon, we generally di'ive out and 
make visits, of which we have an immense number to 
make ; or, if we stay at home there are almost always 
callers. Then we dine at six o'clock ; and if we are to 



274 MEMOIR OP 

go to a party in the evening, which we do three or four 
times a week, we dress ourselves about half past eight, 
and go a little after ten ; if we mean to stay at home, 
we sit down quietly to our books or work, till about ten. 
You see we go to bed early ; for as we rise early it is 
necessary to do so ; our breakfast hour is half past eight 
We should be glad to breakfast even earlier than that, 
if we could ; for we are early people, as you may re- 
member of old ; but we cannot well have our breakfast 
earlier; and many persons take theirs much later; ten 
o'clock is a very common hour. 

" One thing which I find takes up a good deal of time 
is, the reading of the newspapers, which I always make 
a point of doing ; for otherwise, you cannot be at all au 
courant of what is going on in the world. We have 
three morning papers, all of which are very large ; the 
Times^ which is the largest, is two folio sheets, eight 
pages, and full of reading. I do not of course pretend to 
read all the eight pages, for more than half of them are 
advertisements ; but the debates in Parliament are some- 
times so interesting, that I like to read them ; and a 
single speech is sometimes two or three hours long, 
you may imagine it must take some time to read 
speeches of this length. We mean, very soon, to go to 
the House of Coinmons, for though ladies are not ad- 
mitted into the gallery of the House, there is a little 
dark place where they can go, which holds, I believe, 
about a dozen persons. I suppose the reason why 
ladies are not admitted into the gallery is, that it would 
divert tlie attention of the members to see the fair sex 
observing them. 1 have a most earnest desire to hear 
Sir Robert Peel speak' ; for, though it is very well to 
read the speeches, it is certainly much better to hear 
them. 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 275 

" You mentioned, in your letter, something about my 
realizing the fate of the Miss Stanleys, and said you 
were sure I must recollect those young ladies perfectly. 
I had, however, quite forgotten them, and pondered and 
considered a long time, before I could remember that 
they were two renowned personages who figured in 
our old school compositions. Oh dear I those compo- 
sitions I I left a book of them (that were never given 
up) in a trunk in our garret in Boston, along with other 
voluminous papers. What a doleful task I shall have 
overhauling them when I return to America ; if, indeed, 
I do not rather commit them at once to the flames. 
The fire is the best place for them sans doute. It is 
astonishing how papers accumulate, wherever one goes, 
and what rubbish the greater part of them are." 

Among the calls upon her time^ she has not named 
here her correspondence. It was not uncommon for her 
to write letters of three or four sheets to her friends in 
America; and she was faithful in remembering some 
of them by every steamer. She says, in her journal : 
" I wonder I am not tired out with this letter- writing, 
having pursued it now for more than two years and a 
half steadily. But there is always something new to 
say in each letter, and our family at home seem to look 
as anxiously for our letters as they did the first week of 
our absence." 

An hour every morning this year was given to pen- 
manship, with a writing-master; she still continued, 
also, to practise her drawing, and to these employments 
should be added a large amount of general reading. 
Readins^ aloud, both in the afternoon and eveninc:, as 
will have been observed, was a custom early instituted 
in the family. Its advantages cannot fail to be seen ; 
much needle-work and reading are thus accomplished at 



276 MEMOIR OF 

the same time ; — and a large family, however busy 
they may be with sewing, can hardly excuse themselves 
for not devoting time to useful reading, when so much 
can be accomplished at the expense of a little time from 
each member. Besides this, it supersedes the idle and 
profitless conversation, which often engages a family 
circle before they are aware, and suggests inquiries 
and remarks which, on the contrary, may be highly im- 
proving. Anne accompanied her reading, as had been 
her usual habit, with criticisms like the following: — 

" 2d January, 1843. — In the evening we sat down to 
finish Southey's Life of Lord Nelson, which we have 
been reading for some time past. It is an exceedingly 
interesting work ; and though evidently written with 
partiality, it is impossible not to feel a high esteem, 
respect, and admiration for many parts of Nelson's 
character ; for his justice, generosity, perseverance, and 
magnanimity. The two unpleasant points in his char- 
acter, are his infatuated attachment to Lady Hamilton, 
and his excessive hatred of the French. But the latter 
seems to be natural to every Englishman ; at least, the 
author of the book displays his hatred to the French in 
a most violent and unrelenting manner, and really does 
them great injustice. But, except in those two points, 
Nelson was a real hero ; and his death must have been, 
as the historian represents it, a most dreadful calamity 
to England." 

"21st. — . . . . When our master went, I took my 
German history, which I have now nearly concluded, 
having just finished the history of Frederick the Great. 
I do not like that man ; he had certainly many of the 
qualities of a hero ; was brave, firm, wonderfully perse- 
vering, and most extraordinarily fertile in resources, in 
the midst of difficulties which would have appalled any 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 277 

man of less iron nerves. But he was, on the other 
hand, stern, unrelenting, and even cruel in the pursuit 
of his purposes, and I must own, that in the Seven 
Years' War, all my sympathies are on the side of his 
enemies. As a woman, too, I ought not to feel any in- 
terest in him, for I believe he was eternally hostile to 
the female sex. I am glad to have done with his his- 
tory." 

" 11th February. — I read a good deal in Mme. 
d'Arblay's Diary. I have now arrived at her journal,, 
written while she was in attendance upon Queen Char- 
lotte, in which service she continued several years. I 
think, in the review of her book, which I read some 
time ago, the reviewer is too severe, and makes her dis- 
comfort and privations greater than they really were. 

" She was very much confined, indeed, and suffered 
excessive bodily fatigue ; but she saw her friends often, 
and appears to have been treated with kindness by the 
Queen and her daughters. All the companions in office- 
whom she associated with, were agreeable, except old 
Mrs. Schwellenberg, the Queen's German attendant, 
who was certainly most tyrannical and disagreeable,- 
Her life, however, no doubt, was but a degrading 
slavery, and her father and friends, who forced her to 
accept the situation against her own inclination, had 
much to answer for." 

" 27th. — .... I had my usual studies in the morn- 
ing ; and we read aloud a good deal in a new novel of 
Mr. Fay's, called ' The Double Duel.' It is well writ- 
ten ; the story is woven cleverly, and some of the char- 
acters are very interesting ; but there are several things 
I do not like in it ; — for instance ; many of the charac- 
ters are introduced as infidels, — introduced, indeed, to 
be confuted and converted ; but why broach the subject 

24 



278 MEMOIR OP 

at all ? Why put such ideas into the heads of many 
persons who will read the book, which would not other- 
wise have been there ? " 

The gay season in London does not properly begin 
until the spring is somewhat advanced; that is, after 
Easter. This year it was still later, and the state of the 
Queen's health prevented, also, the usual drawing- 
rooms. So far from expressing disappointment, Anne 
congratulated herself upon their unusual freedom from 
large parties ; and remarks : " The drawing-rooms and 
trains and plumes are tiresome, and well got rid of." 
She says, also : " I do not think I shall go out so much 
this year as I did last, for J injured my health at the 
time by such dissipation." It is not pretended that she 
was not fond of society ; but the late hours, the display 
of dress, and the ceremony and crowd of court balls, 
neither suited her taste nor were approved by her judg- 
ment. Her feelings on the subject were not influenced 
by any want of attention at these assemblies. When 
a young lady's hand is sought for every dance, as was 
hers not unfrequently, no other proof can be needed of 
her popularity. But social and literary circles were 
more congenial to her taste. After passing an evening 
with a few friends, she mentions her high enjoyment of 
the evening, and a most agreeable conversation with a 
gentleman, in which she says : " We discussed Horace, 
Virgil, Cicero, etc., so much pleasanter than our non- 
sense often is." A literary breakfast at home, at which 
Mr. Macaulay, among others, was present, drew from 
her the expression " that she had never enjoyed an en- 
tertainment more." She conceived the highest admira- 
tion for this brilliant author, and on one occasion writes 
of him in the following manner : " We did not go out 
this evening, but instead, we did what was better ; read 



ANNE GORHAM EVEKETT. 279 

Macaulay's Review on Warren Hastings, governor-gen- 
eral of India. It is most brilliant, both in language 
and expression ; nay, the power of language can go no 
further than in his description of the trial in Westmin- 
ster Hall. It is sublime, grand, magnificent I The 
writing, as the talking of Mr. Macaulay, none can sur- 
pass, and I am sure, few, very few, equal." Of Mr. 
Macaulay's conversational powers, she writes still fur- 
ther: " Mr. Macaulay is a great talker, but talks most 
exceedingly well ; and on every subject started, he is 
equally at home. It is, indeed, a perfect delight to hear 
him talk ; I ' could listen to him all day. First, the 
stage and Shakspeare were discussed ; then Byron ; 
and then the conversation passed to the Romans and 
their ways in war, apropos of some beautiful poems Mr. 
Macaulay has just written called the ' Lays of Ancient 
Rome.' At last elephants were mentioned ; and fre- 
quent as are the stories of their sagacity, Mr. M. told 
one that was quite new to us. A certain general, com- 
manding in the East, and possessing a peculiarly fine, 
elephant, was advised to provide a large pool of water 
for the animal to bathe in, which he accordingly did ; 
but the elephant, though he w^alked wishfully round the 
pool, positively refused to enter it. This surprised every 
one ; till at length it was suggested that the water 
should all be drawn off from the pool, and the animal 
allowed to see how deep it was. This was done ; and 
when the elephant saw that the water was not deep 
enough to drown him, he very readily consented to 
bathe in the pool." This is really a wonderful instance 
of this noble animal's sagacity, and is like the elephant's 
putting his feet upon bridges to try their strength before 
he ventures to pass over them. She says : " Mr. 
Macaulay's ' Lays of Ancient Rome,' which we have 



280 MEMOIR OP 

just read, is another most delightful work. The Lays, 
four in number, are spirited and classical in the highest 
degree ; and there is a melody and sweetness in them 
that hangs on one's lip and memory long after the book 
is closed. Little W. to whom we read them, is 
enchanted with them ; and they have run in my head 
from the first reading." 

The weather this winter was extremely mild, even for 
England. Anne thus writes of it in one of her let- 
ters : — 

" London, Isfc April, 1843. 

" .... I think we may now congratulate ourselves 
on the return of warm weather ; and yet I should 
hardly use that expression ; for we have scarcely had 
any cold weather this last winter. The month of No- 
vember, which month is so often represented as dismally 
unpleasant in London, was clear, bright, and beautiful ; 
December and January were lovely and like spring ; as 
for fires, we hardly needed them ; we had three weeks 
of very cold (that is, cold for England,) weather in 
February; et voild tout! that was our winter; there 
was a very little snow, a very little ice, and a very little 
skating in the parks. Some portion of the month of 
March, was, it is true, a little coolish ; but we had some 
days that were really summer-like ; and the leaves of 
the lilac bushes, and of many other shrubs, as well as 
of some trees, were fully out before the end of March. 
Indeed, some of the weather was too pleasant, if I 
may so express myself; for the sudden change from 
cold to warm rejoiced many persons so much, that they 
very imprudently made a change in their clothing. Of 
this number, was foolish I ; forgetting what a treacher- 
ous month is March, even in this genial climate, and 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 281 

also forgetting that if I ever step the least aside from 
my usual course, a severe visitation follows. So I 
changed some of my warm garments, and the conse- 
quence was, a most disagreeable rheumatism, which 
actually prevented me from sitting or standing straight 
while it lasted." 

At the close of this letter of three sheets, which is 
written in her usually beautiful manner, she adds a 
postscript saying : " My rheumatism is still severe, and 
quite disables me, so if this letter is dull, the reason, 
you will know, is, that I have been in pain when writ- 
ing it." 

This is but one instance of her fortitude in enduring 
pain. Throughout this severe rheumatic attack, so 
little did she vary from her system of ordinary exertion, 
that her ill health would scarcely be observable, but for 
the fact that she remained more at home. As early as 
the middle of February she suffered from a severe in- 
fluenza, which left her with a cough, from which she 
seems never to have been entirely freed. In March she 
speaks in a more discouraged tone of her health. " We 
took our lung bath this morning, with very good effect ; 
for having sat up so late the last two nights, the fresh 
air is absolutely necessary to prevent a severe headache. 
This expedient, however, was successful ; the headache 
was frighted away, though I have been extremely weary 
all day. I don't know what I shall do in the height of 
the gay season, if only two nights have so completely 
knocked me up. Mais^ courage ! ' Sufficient unto the 
day is the evil thereof This evening there was a party ; 
but C. and I declined going, leaving papa and mamma 
to go alone, while we went to bed early." 

Another day she says mournfully, " In the afternoon 
24* 



"282 MEMOIR OF 

I did not drive out with the others, for I was quite un- 
-well, which it seems as if I always am now." As the 
usual gayeties of the season increased, Anne adhered to 
hex original intention of going to few parties ; for a 
month she did not attend one evening party, often 
-spending the evenings entirely alone, engaged in read- 
ing, writing, or sewing, and retiring early. Although 
she never repines at being thus left alone, she expresses 
her happiness when the rest of the family are not 
'Obliged to leave her. She never regrets being unable 
herself to accompany them, — but oftener mentions her 
entire indifference to balls and parties ; her own words 
are, ^^ I know just what they all are.-^ So had she learned 
wisdom. Not that she altogether absented herself from 
society ; she frequently attended a dejeuner or a dinner 
party. She says, " these are very pleasant ; for you 
are almost sure to meet agreeable people, and have 
much nicer conversation during an hour and a half, 
than you can in a crowded evening party." 

In April she considered herself well enough to ac- 
company the family in a second excursion to Belvoir ; 
but the journey seems to have been undertaken by the 
force of mental energy rather than from any real physi- 
cal ability to endure it. She herself says the day 
before starting : " It will be rather an effort my going 
to Belvoir ; for I am not at all retahlie yet. But I hope 
anuch from the change of air." 

She writes : " As we approached the castle, how 
natural every thing looked ! the noble building, with its 
towers and battlements, the avenues, and the groves. 
The leaves on the trees are not as much out as they are 
in town, and the spring is not quite as advanced. 

" We have the same rooms we had last September, 
when we were here ; and it all seems quite like home. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 283 

We were received by the Duke and Lady A. with 
great kindness, and made welcome to Bel voir again. 
There has been a large party here of late ; but at 
present there are not many. We sat down, seventeen 
to dinner, in the great dining-room, which is a grand 
room. 

" After dinner we went into the great gallery which 
is now in all its glory ; last autumn it was dismantled. 
It is a splendid room, worthy of Belvoir Castle. We 
had some delicious music in the course of the evening, 
from the Duke's band, who played in the great hall 
below. It was a beautiful sight, to look down into the 
hall, with the old statues and armor around it, and hear 
the strains of soft music. It made one think of an old 
baronial hall, only instead of the rudeness of ancient 
times, there was every comfort and luxury of modern 
civilization around us." 

But the pleasures of the country, which she mostly 
sought and longed for, in this visit, she was deprived of. 
While others were enjoying out-door sports, and ram- 
bling through the lovely park and groves, Anne betook 
herself quietly to her room, to read or write ; and with- 
out one complaint, the words of the gentle invalid are : 
" for I find I am not well yet ; and have hardly any 
strength left." 

After her return from Belvoir, she made another visit 
in the country at East Sheen, near London. The 
green appearance of every thing here delighted her, the 
season being more advanced than Leicestershire, — she 
found no company here and she seems to have felt 
renewed strength. Many of the beauties of the scenery 
she describes with enthusiasm ; among others the view 
from Richmond Hill. 

" The weather this morning is soft and mild, and the 



284 MEMOIR OF 

country looks beautifully. We walked this morning in 
Richmond Park, which is very near Mr. B.'s house, and 
is a very pretty place with some fine deer in it. After 
luncheon we went out to take a drive, and again passed 
through the Park, its whole length ; we came to the Star 
and Garter Inn, on the top of Richmond Hill, from 
which there is a most lovely prospect over the valley of 
the Thames. Words cannot do justice to it. The 
country is quite a level, with beautiful green trees, and 
white houses interspersed among them ; and the lovely 
Thames pursuing 

' His silver winding way,' 

in the midst of all, with a little boat resting here and 
there on its quiet waters. The view is bounded by dis- 
tant hills ; and on a clear day, you can distinctly see 
Windsor, twenty miles distant. The whole view at 
the first coup d'^ceil, and ever after, appears the effect of 
enchantment. The village of Richmond is a pretty 
village." 

Journal. " 25th April. — We heard the cannon fir- 
ing this morning, while we were at breakfast, and the 
cause of it was soon explained. When we opened the 
newspapers it was announced that the Queen had 
given birth to a Princess at four o'clock this morning, 
and that both were doing well. This is good news to 
follow so soon the Duke of Sussex's death. The birth 
of the young Princess, as also the Duke's death, was 
announced officially to papa from the foreign office. 
In the course of the day, we, with almost everybody 
else, paid visits, both of condolence and congratulation 
to the different members of the Royal family, and also 
called at the palace to inquire for the Queen." 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 285 

" 26th. — In the afternoon when we drove out, we 
stopped at the palace to inquire for the Queen and 
infant Princess, which is the custom for the Foreign 
Ministers to do for the first week, I think. The answer, 
' both going on very favorably.' We then drove on, 
and made a good many visits. 

" We went this evening to a party at Mrs. B.'s, where 
we heard some fine singing from the lady of the house, 
and her sister. The music and singing were delightful. 
It seemed quite odd to me to go to a party again ; for 
it is a month now since I have been to one. It does 
not seem to have done me any harm, though it has 
been rainy and damp this evening." 

" 27th. — I reckoned without my host last night, in 
thinking I received no harm from going out ; for this 
morning a great part of the severe pain, I hoped had 
gone, returned. I believe the only way is to keep 
myself wholly in the house ; and, in fact, I have now 
become so wholly indifferent to parties, that it is no 
matter." 

" 17th May. — We went this morning to the Duke 
of Devonshire's breakfast, at Chiswick. He has a beau- 
tiful villa th«re, with most lovely grounds about it ; but 
unfortunately, just as we arrived, it began to rain, and 
soon poured hard. 

" We entered the house, rather an old building with 
a low entrance, and narrow passages ; and as soon as 
we got in, we were conducted to the luncheon table, 
where there was, in fact, an elegant dinner, with ice, 
straw bei-ries, etc. 

" It was too wet to walk in the grounds and conser- 
vatory ; so, after luncheon, we went up stairs into the 
suite of drawing-rooms, where we were introduced by 
papa to the Duke of Devonshire, who is a very amiable 



286 MEMOIR OP 

person. Mr. P. and Mr. R. accompanied us. We then 
began with the rest of the company to walk through the 
rooms. They contain some very fine pictures and stat- 
uary. There is one little room, — hung with old tapes- 
try and old pictures, — in which Charles James Fox 
died ; there is a likeness of him in the room. The late 
celebrated Mr. Canning also died in this villa ; but 
whether in this same room, I am not quite certain. 

" The rain still continued so violently, that we could 
not go out, though we made an effort to do so ; we 
therefore continued to walk around the rooms, looking 
at the pictures and chatting with our acquaintances. 

" When we went down stairs to go home, we were 
shown into a room where tea and coffee were served, 
besides fruit, etc. We had to wait twenty minutes or 
half an hour for our carriage and then drove home in a 
pouring rain, arriving a little after six. In the evening 
papa and I went to two parties ; mamma not feeling 
able to go ; at the latter of them, the Prussian Minis- 
ter's, we had some fine German music. We got home 
about twelve." 

"24th May. — We went this morning to see the 
Reform Club in Pall Mall. All the club-houses are 
very large and handsome, and the Reform Club is, I 
believe, considered one of the finest. A gentleman, 
an acquaintance of papa's, who was there showed us all 
over the building, which is of great size. The library 
and reading-rooms are all very commodiously and hand- 
somely furnished, and many of the ceilings are beauti- 
fully gilt. The great drawing-room, which looks out 
on a pleasant garden, is a hundred and twenty-three or 
four feet long, and very richly furnished in the article of 
hangings and curtains. A smaller room, called the blue 
drawing-room and looking on Pall Mall, is a very nice 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 287 

and comfortable, as well as handsome room ; quite too 
nice, as C. and I thought, for the exclusive use of men. 

" The annual subscription of a member is ten guineas, 
and there are, I think, sixteen hundred members ; so 
that the income is very large. Beside this, all the food 
taken there is paid for separately. We went into the 
kitchen department, which is extensive and well 
arranged. The wife of the chief cook died a short 
time ago ; she was quite celebrated for her beauty, and 
had a great talent for painting in oils. We saw several 
of her paintings, which were really very well done. 

" Food is served at all hours to parties of persons, or 
to single gentlemen ; and the arrangements of the large 
dining-room, which we went through, were admirable. 

" These clubs are, indeed, immense conveniences to 
single gentlemen, who can pass their whole time there ; 
there are, in the Reform Club, a few sleeping-rooms for 
those who like them, though it is not intended to be a 
lodging-house. After going over the establishment we 
made one or two visits, and then returned home. In 
the evening we went to two parties, but were not out 
late." 

" 31st. — We were caught by a little rain this morn- 
ing in our walk, as we almost always are now ; but it 
was so slight that we did not get wet. To-day is the 
great day of the Epsom races, and almost everybody 
has gone. As for me, I neither go, nor wish to go, to 
such places. I passed the afternoon quietly, reading 
and sewing, and did not go out. 

" In the evening we went to the concert of Ancient 
Music, which was under the superintendence of Prince 
Albert as director for to-night. The Archbishop of 
York sent us a ticket for the directors' box, which is 
near the music, and a very good place both for seeing 



288 MEMOIR OF 

and hearing. The Queen, the Queen Dowager, and 
all the Royal family were there, in the Royal box, 
which is directly opposite the music, at the other end 
of the room. Among the other singers were my favor- 
ites, Mario and Lablache ; but the voice of the former, 
which, though exceedingly sweet, is not very powerful, 
was almost drowned in the very loud choruses. The 
music was very well selected, and very delightful. 
After the first part was over, we, with the rest of the 
company in the director's box, were invited by the 
Queen, to go into her tea-room, where all the Royal 
family were assembled ; all dressed in the deepest 
mourning for the late Duke of Sussex. The Queen 
and the Prince went round and spoke to everybody. 
We were presented, also, to the Queen Dowager, which 
we have never been before. After the Royal family had 
taken tea, and spoken to those present, they left the 
room." 

" 2d June. — We went this morning to see the great 
picture of the first reformed House of Commons, 
painted by Sir George Hayter, historical painter to the 
Queen. It is a very fine, expressive painting, and, not- 
withstanding the immense multitude of heads, some of 
them are very good likenesses ; particularly the Duke of 
Wellington, the Lord Chancellor, and the Earl of Aber- 
deen. O' Council is represented as leaning forward in 
a conspicuous position, with strongly excited but agree- 
able expression ; he had achieved a great triumph. 
Around the room were hung the likenesses of all the 
persons represented in the picture, done in large size. 
A great many of them 1 recognized. 

" In the same room is Sir G. Hayter's last picture of 
the Queen ; she is represented as sitting in a large 
chair, in her state robes, the crown on her head, and the 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 289 

sceptre in her hand. Another picture we saw, was the 
trial of Lord Russell ; a most powerful picture. The 
expression of his face is noble, as also his wife's, who 
sat by him as his secretary. The last painting we 
looked at, was the ' Trial of Queen Caroline,' wife of 
George IV. The face of the Queen is ugly and harsh. 
beyond expression. 

" When we left the pictures, we went to look at Mr.. 
Sainsbury's Napoleon Museum, which is just opened., 
It is a collection which has been twenty-five years in 
making, of all the articles relating to Napoleon that can 
possibly be brought together; pictures, busts, books,, 
curious relics of all sorts, and portraits of all his family. . 
Some of these portraits are very beautiful and ex- 
quisitely painted, and the likenesses of the great hero 
himself represent him at every period of his life. We 
were shown a great many interesting autographs of Na- 
poleon, beginning from the time when he first began to 
distinguish himself; there were also many autographs 
of renowned personages, from the grand' monar que' 
down. Those of Louis XVI. and the unfortunate 
Marie Antoinette were among the most interesting.. 
There were the autographs of many members of Louis 
Philippe's family; among them, the first letter ever 
written to her father by the Princess Louise, the present 
Queen of the Belgians, when only four years old, and 
an early letter of her sister, the Princess Marie, whO' 
sculptured the statue of Joan of Arc ; both letters ex- 
ceedingly well written for such children. 

" We spent some time looking at the interesting 
things in this collection. The Duke of Wellington. 
was there for two hours a few days ago. It must have 
recalled past recollections and events very strongly xo> 
his mind. 

25 



290 MEMOIR OP 

" In the evening we went to a concert at Lansdowne 
House, where we had all the Italian singers, and en- 
joyed ourselves exceedingly, for they sung, as they 
always do, delightfully, particularly Mario." 

" 3d. — We went this morning to Stafford House to 
meet some American friends at luncheon. We found 
quite a large party there when we arrived ; — Lord Mor- 
peth, and several other members of the Duchess's 
family, besides all the Americans. Before luncheon 
we walked around the beautiful rooms, and looked 
at the pictures and other objects of interest. I saw 
the hoQse last year when lighted up for the fancy 
ball, and brilliant as it was I think I prefer it by day- 
light. About half past two we went into the round 
hall adjoining the gi-eat pictm-e gallery, where a most 
splendid dejeuner ^vas served. The ceiling and walls 
of this hall are superbly gilt, and from the middle hangs 
a most magnificent gilt chandelier, ornamented taste- 
fully with white lilies in glass. The luncheon was like 
a dinner in every respect, except that there was not the 
tiresome parade of most great dinners. After it was 
over we went into the picture gallery, and looked at all 
the pictures again, particularly the two great Muril- 
los." .... 

The following week Anne made another excursion to 
Eton, and again visited Windsor Castle. After her 
retm'n home we quote again from her journal. 

" 8th. — This morning we breakfasted with Mr. and 
Mrs. Milman in the Cloisters of Westminster Abbey. 
They had promised afterwards to show us the Abbey, 
which we had never entirely seen. Our party at break- 
fast was very pleasant ; besides ourselves, there were 
Messrs. Macaulay, Hallam, and Hayward, and a sister 
of Mrs. Milman's. Mr. Macaulay was as brilliant as 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 291 

usual at breakfast, and told many interesting anec- 
dotes. 

" The breakfast lasted a long time, and after it was 
over, we went into the Abbey through the Cloisters. 
We went first through the great middle nave, where 
there are many monuments ; among others, that of 
William Pitt, and of the Earl of Godolphin, treasurer 
to Queen Anne. There are many side aisles and 
chapels, known by various names, and containing 
monuments too numerous to remember ; some of them 
are very pretty and chaste ; others, again, are in the 
worst possible taste, particularly some monuments 
erected for naval officers, and which attempt to repre- 
sent sea views. 

" In the Chapel of Edward the Confessor, are the two 
old coronation chairs, for the King and Queen. Under 
one of them is the ancient stone used in the coronation 
of the Scottish monarchs at Scone. In this chapel, 
which is very old, is the shrine of King Edward the 
Confessor, and the tombs of many of the early Norman 
Kings and Queens. The Chapel of Henry VII., which 
is behind that of the Confessor, is most magnificent, 
and is used for the installation of the Knights of the 
Bath, whose banners hang on either side, in the same 
manner as those of the Knights of the Garter do in 
St. George's Chapel, Windsor. The roof of Henry's 
Chapel is splendid, being wrought in a peculiarly deli- 
cate and graceful manner. In this chapel are the tombs 
of Queen Elizabeth, and of her rival and victim, Mary, 
Queen of Scots ; also, of Margaret, Countess of Rich- 
mond, mother of Henry VII. We went into one or 
two other chapels with some interesting monuments, 
and then back into the nave ; where, immediately before 
the altar, under the dome, the Queen sat when she was 



292 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

crowned. The sight must have been magnificent in 
the extreme ; with the immense Abbey crowded as full 
as it could hold. By this time we had been all over 
the church, and were very much interested with what 
we had seen. I forgot to mention, that of course we 
went into the Poet's Corner, but that I had seen before. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Last extsacts from her journal — last letters. 



•' Must it be so, 
That those whose intellects are sweetly bright, 
When to this world they come, must quickly go. 
Like rays of light? " 



If dependent solely upon dear Anne's journal for the 
account of her health, we should know nothing of her 
sufferings, and have little idea that she was daily sink- 
ing in strength and spirits. It is true, that from time 
to time she expresses amazement and perplexity at her 
" weariness," after taking less than her customary exer- 
cise ; — and she is evidently depressed by the continual 
lassitude which often debars her from every employ- 
ment, and which she cannot comprehend. This is not 
surprising ; — how could she perceive, as we do now, 
that the hand of the destroying angel was then laid 
upon her? 

It excites a peculiarly melancholy sympathy, to see 
one of active and diligent habits bound hand and foot 
with the bands of pain and weakness, while yet the 
spirit, in its full strength, is longing to be " up and 
doing." Had Anne been accustomed to lead an indo- 

25* 



294 MEMOIR OF 

lent life, her prostration would awaken far less tender 
sensibility ; one might, in such case, even think it better 
that ill health, by creating the necessity for an idle life, 
should save it from being sinful. But in this case we 
need no such consolation. A hundred-fold preferable 
is it, resignedly to witness the meek invalid's patience 
as she gradually yielded herself to the severe trial of 
perfect inactivity and quiet ; a trial severer than the 
endurance of pain to a spirit like hers. But she bore 
it silently ; not a murmur escaped her lips. What she 
felt is known only to herself and that Being who 
iknoweth all things, and who, as a father, " pitieth them 
that fear him." 

It remains now, to give the last extracts from her 
Journal, and a few last letters exchanged between her 
father and herself, during her absences from home in 
search of improvement. These will be given according 
to their dates. 

The latter part of June, 1843, Anne made another 
excursion to Oxford with her parents and sister ; again 
Tisiting the colleges and libraries, and apparently enjoy- 
ing the visit. When a long walk was taken by the 
family, she lay down and took a nap ; the only circum- 
stance detailed by her which gives any clue to the state 
^of her health. But one acquainted with her habits, 
vcan imagine how much exhaustion this simple fact im- 
yplies. 

" 15th June, 1843. — To-day the weather was per- 
fectly delicious ; bright, clear, and sunny ; the first 
pleasant day we have had for so long, that it made our 
hearts leap with joy. I thought if I took a walk, it 
might, perhaps, do me good ; so papa and I took quite 
a long ^^alk through Hyde Park, where we found the 
air mild and the weather lovely. We returned about 



AXNE GORHAM EVERETT. 295 

half past eleven In the evening, most happily, 

there was no party ; so we sat at home and read, and 
went to bed early." 

" 24th. — Yesterday and Thursday I was so ill that I 
could not wTite or do much of any thing, and therefore 
did not attempt it. To-day I have been better, and 
have taken my usual walk without its tiring me much. 
The weather is now very pleasant, though not very 
warm ; I do not think we have once felt a regular sum- 
mer's day. It is the most singularly cool summer I 
ever knew. For the last two days, I have tried to 
amuse myself by reading Mrs. Ratcliffe's ' Mysteries of 
Udolpho,' which is in the ancient style of novels ; but 
oh ! how flat and insipid it is, and even silly in many 
parts ; it is astonishing how such a book could ever 
take, with nothing approaching to a well drawn char- 
acter in it. But there is something in the fact, that 
when such novels were ^viitten, no better had ever ap- 
peared. Sir Walter, Miss Edgeworth, and Miss Aus- 
ten had not then written. 

'^ All but myself went this evening to one or two 
parties ; I have almost given up parties." 

" Oxford, Christ Church College, 26th. — The drive 
from Steventon was beautiful ; the air was so soft and 
mild, and the landscape was so pretty. Just as we en- 
tered Oxford the sun set most beautifully ; the sky was 
quite an Italian one. We found Dr. and Mrs. B. very 
glad to see us. There has been a great change in the 
house since w^e were here last summer. All the stones 
and other specimens which filled every part of it, have 
been removed by Mrs. B., and it now looks like other 
houses." .... 

" 28th. — This morning we went to the Theatre, 
where the ceremonies were to take place, and where 



296 MEMOIR OF 

the degrees of D. C. L. were to be conferred, of which 
papa was to receive one. We went to the Theatre, 
which is a large circular building, about half past ten, 
and found it nearly full. The upper gallery was filled 
with the students, who kept up a continual shouting 
and noise; some of their shouting was amusing, but 
presently it became oppressive. The Vice- Chancellor 
of the University, accompanied by the Doctors in their 
red gowns, entered and took their seats. The Proctors 
attended the Vice- Chancellor also. Now it seems, that 
the Junior Proctor has made himself very disagreeable 
to the students, and accordingly, they began to hiss and 
groan at him, keeping up a tremendous noise, and call- 
ing on him with loud cries to go out. The noise con- 
tinued, so that none of the speeches could be read and 
none of the proceedings heard. The Vice- Chancellor 
waited for some time ; but as long as the hated Proctor 
was in sight, they would not be quiet, and finally the 
proceedings were given up ; the Vice- Chancellor and 
the Doctors left the hall, the ladies followed, and the 
assembly soon broke up, in consequence of the dis- 
graceful and wholly unjustifiable proceedings of the 
students. 

" We returned to Dr. B.'s, and about half past one 
left Oxford for Steventon in our post carriage ; we 
arrived there in very good time ; indeed, we had to 
wait for the train. We reached London a little before 
six. In the evening we went to the Queen's party at 
the Palace, in honor of the marriage of the Princess 
Augusta of Cambridge, which took place about nine 
this evening. We saw the bride a moment at the 
party ; she had on a splendid dress and train, and 
superb jewels. We walked through the rooms, paid 
our respects to the Queen, and about half past eleven 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 297 

the company went to supper. Soon after supper, we 
contrived to steal off, though we had to wait some time 
for our carriage. I was exceedingly tired." 

" 11th July. — We went this morning to Westminster 
Hall, to see some cartoons by British artists, which are 
now exhibiting there. They were ordered by the Com- 
missioners for encouraging the fine arts, with a view of 
selecting artists to paint in fresco the walls of the new 
Houses of Parliament. They are done in chalk or 
crayon, but no colors ; and some of them are very 
beautiful ; most of them extremely well done. There 
were several prizes given by the Commissioners ; three 
prizes of £300, three of £200, and five of £100. 

" The subjects are taken from Milton, Shakspeare, 
Spenser, and the British history in the time of the 
Romans ; man}^ subjects, also, are drawn from quite 
modern English history. One particularly good picture 
represented the plague in the reign of Edward HI. ; the 
figures in this are exceedingly well drawn, especially 
the figure of a man suffering from the disease and tear- 
ing his clothes from him. There was a great sameness 
in the subjects ; for instance, there were at least half a 
dozen pictures of the story of Caractacus, which, 
though all treated differently in detail, were generally 
alike. There were also a great many drawings of 
Queen Boadicea, representing her in different attitudes, 
but all very similar. Upon the whole, however, the 
cartoons were very ingenious in design, and spirited in 
execution, and do great credit to British artists. The 
Queen visited them the other day, and was said to be 
much pleased with them. Westminster Hall is itself a 
grand place ; and the roof, which is of carved oak, is 
said to be as old as the time of William Rufus." 



298 MEMOIR OP 

The next day she made an excursion to the Horticul- 
tural Exhibition of rare fruits and flowers at Chiswick ; 
but she says, at the close of the day : " Though the day 
was fine, and the excursion pleasant, it tired me so ex- 
ceedingly, that I had to lie down till dinner. I am not, 
I fear, quite well yet." 

A day or two after, she wrote to her father, who was 
absent from home : " They are all going to-day to the 
Zoological Gardens, except myself; I being much too* 
weak for it, as I made myself very unwell by going to 
the fete at Chiswick last Wednesday 

" Good-by, dear papa ; it is just luncheon time, and 
my cough shakes my hand a little too much to make 
my writing look well." 

Journal. " 23d July. — On Tuesday mamma and I, 
with W., go down to Brighton, the air of which place 
has been recommended to me ; and if it is favorable, 
we shall probably stay some weeks. I am fond of the 
sea, and if we have good weather, I think it may do me 
much good." .... 

" Brighton.^ 25th. — Papa took us down here this 
morning to establish us in our lodgings. We started 
in the train from London Bridge about half past ten. 
The motion and jarring of the carriages were excessive, 
and I was very glad when we arrived at Brighton, and 
at the house where we were to lodge. The rooms we 
have are comfortable and clean, though not very large, 
and look out upon the sea and the pier. Papa took us 
to the pier, which was built for vessels to land at, on 
account of the shallowness of the beach. It runs out a 
considerable distance into the sea, and you get a fine 
sea-breeze from it 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 299 

" Papa left us to return to London. As I felt very- 
tired from the uncomfortable railway, I could not do 
much the rest of the day ; but after tea soon went to 
bed." 

" 26th. — We had a very nice walk on the beach and 
pier this morning, for it is a delightful day. We staid 
there for some time in the delicious sea-breeze, and 
when we came home, we received a packet from papa, 
who sent us some letters from America 

" This afternoon we took a di'ive around Brighton, to 
see the localities a little. We passed by the Palace, 
the Pavilion, as it is called, which is an odd Chinese 
looking building. We mean some day to go and in- 
spect it Papa has promised that some day when 

he is down here, he will take us over to Dieppe ; the 
passage is about seven hours, and it would make a 
pleasant little trip of a day and night. How I should 
like to see charriiing France again ! " 

"Brighton, 3d August, 1843. 

" Dear Papa, — You have been so kind in often writ- 
ing to me, that I fear you will be hurt by my not an- 
swering, though I have no news to tell you. I think I 
am better, my rheumatic pains having gone ; but my 
cough is still severe, particularly nights. For the last 
two or three days, we have had very cold weather ; to- 
day is so very windy, that when I was out, it was with 
the utmost difficulty I kept on my feet ; I have not, 
therefore, ventured out again. Do you mean to come 
down here soon and see us, and when will C. come ? 
I did hear that Mrs. B. was to bring her, but that has 
not been confirmed. 

" E. persists in saying he does not like Brighton, and 
wants to go to London. I suppose he feels it rather 



300 MEMOIR OF 

confined, and does not like to keep quiet. W. declared 
to the last moment, when mamma went, that he was 
going with her ; he was extremely disappointed that he 
was not allowed to go and see papa. Whenever he is 
a little offended with E., he says he will give him 
to the Parlez- Vous I Who taught him that word, 
I wonder ? 

" We are going to bring mamma from the railway in 
a few minutes, and therefore I must finish my letter by 
and by." .... 

Journal. " 5th August. — We went this morning to 
see the Pavilion, as it is called. It is built in the 
Chinese style, and fitted up in the same manner ; and 
though ugly outside, is exceedingly rich and beautiful 
within. The large dining-room is the handsomest 
room ; it is very lofty, with a superb dome in the centre, 
from which hangs a Chinese chandelier, said to be mag- 
nificent ; we could not see it, for it was covered. There 
are four other chandeliers in the room, which were also 
covered. The walls are painted with exceeding rich- 
ness, in Chinese figures ; and the space around each 
picture resembles mother-of-pearl so exactly, that it 
would be difficult to tell the difference. 

" The next handsomest room is the music room ; the 
walls are superbly painted in red and gold, and in the 
centre of the high dome, is a Chinese dragon, richly 
executed. All the rooms are handsome, and appro- 
priately furnished ; in one are white and black ivory 
chairs and settees, very beautiful ; every thing is in 
keeping, but there is nothing gaudy or overloaded about 
it. It is all in good taste, though perhaps a strange 
taste. The little breakfast room, where the Queen and 
Prince breakfast, is a very nice, pretty little room, the 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 301 

walls being painted with Chinese figures. Upon the 
whole, I was very much pleased with the pavilion, and 
glad to have seen it. 

" On Monday we return home to London, as this 
place is rather too cold for me, though I am certainly 
better than when I came. I have enjoyed the sea very 
much ; but it is so very quiet, I shall be glad to- see a 
few persons again.." 

[Last letter to her friend, P. C] 

" London, 17th August, 1843: 

" Dearest P., — I received your letter of the llthi 
July, in due time by the Hibernia.. It is very long since 
I wrote to you ; but I have many other correspondents,, 
and also I have been very ill. That I still am, but not 
so much so as to prevent my writing you a short letter,, 
which I am very sorry 1 cannot make longer. In the 
spring, I had a severe attack of rheumatism, joined withi 
fever and ague ; and I had scarcely got a little better 
when a cough took possession of me, and has con- 
tinued to the present time ; I am nearly worn out now,, 
and it is so long since I have felt well, that I hardly 
know what health is. Pardon these few words about, 
myself, written, indeed, as a sort of explanation of not, 
writing before. 

" We have lately been passing a week or two at 
Brighton to try the effects of sea air; but, unfortur- 
nately^ I found it too cold ; it is, however, a very pretty- 
place, situated finely on the sea-coast, with an extensive- 
beach, a pier built out into the ocean, which is a very- 
favorite walk, mineral waters, and every thing else that 
can make a residence agreeable. In warm weather, no» 
place can be more delightful than Brighton ; but in. 

2a 



302 MEMOIR OP 

high and cold winds, of which there are a great many, 
it is not so pleasant. I am, however, always fond of 
the sea, under any circumstances. 

" I see, by your letter, that you have been staying in 
the country; how you must have enjoyed yourself; the 
country is, after all, the best place to be in, in summer. 
We expect to go into the country in a day or two, and 
T am in hopes that the pure air will do me good. I only 
ask for tolerably pleasant weather ; there has been very 
little really fine weather this season, for all the English 
agree in saying it is extraordinarily cold. 

" Parties and balls are now, I believe, all over ; they 
have been kept up a little later than usual this year, on 
account of the visit of the King of Hanover, who is 
the Queen's uncle, to this country. Innumerable enter- 
tainments have been given to the Royal guest; the 
Haaoverian Minister mentioned one day, that his King 
and. himself had dined out forty-five nights, I think, in 
succession. Pretty wearisome work for the King, who 
is seventy -two years of age. He has also entertained a 
good deal himself. The Queen is constantly having 
visitors ; her own and Prince Albert's German relations 
are very frequently here, beside princes of many of the 
Royal families of Europe. She is now at Windsor 
Castle, and it is said they go in a few days to Brighton. 
" . . . . We have been reading lately Miss Bremer's 
Swedish novels ; ' Home ' and the ' Neighbors ' in Eng- 
lish editions, and several others sent to us from America. 
I think them very interesting, notwithstanding the 
romantic strain v^hich pervades them ; that, I suppose, 
is the Swedish style. I think of all of them I prefer 
' Home,' and next to that the ' Neighbors.' Though 
the preference here is, I believe, generally given to the 
latter, I cannot agree with it. Which do you prefer ? 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 303 

Have yon received in America yet, a new work, not yet 
finished, Miss Strickland's ' Lives of the Queens of 
England ? ' A volume comes out once a month, 1 
think. The sixth volume came out the other day, con- 
taining the Life of Queen Elizabeth. We find it very 
interesting and instructive ; it gives you a great many 
particulars, that you do not meet with in Hume or any 
other large history. 

" We were all very much grieved to hear of the loss 
of Mr. A. D. at sea. We saw mentioned some time 
ago, in an American paper, that the vessel was safe ; 
but that has since been contradicted. Poor Mrs. D. ! 
how desolate she must be. I remember, as if it were 
yesterday, being present at her marriage, which no one 
there could dream would terminate so soon. 

" e . . . I must say good- by, now, dear P., for I have 
another letter to write, and must not tire myself. With 
much love from C. and myself, believe me, 
"Your sincerely attached 

" AxNE G. Everett. 

Soon after the date of the preceding letter Anne 
made her proposed visit into the country; but alas! 
although its sweet freshness and beauty gave her 
pleasure, they could not give her strength ; she grew 
daily weaker, and in a few days returned to London. 
As usual, in her absence, she was cheered by letters 
from her beloved father. We insert only one. 

" London, 21st August, 1843. 

" Dear Nanny, — As mamma is to send out a parcel 
to you at Sheen to-day, I am tempted to add a few 

lines, though I have not much to tell you Last 

Friday we had our breakfast. Sir Robert Harry Inglis, 



301 MEMOIR OF 

Dr. and Miss Hawtrey, and Mr. Macaulay were the Eng- 
lish guests, and Mr. Lawrence and his family the Amer- 
ican. It was quite pleasant. The conversation was 
very well divided round the table, and our American 
friends were highly gratified. Mr. Macaulay related a 
pleasant anecdote of the police at Paris, when the 
famous cantatrice Mademoiselle Sontag applied for a 
passport. Instead of filling up the sig-nalement, with 
a, precise description of forehead, hair, eyes, nose, etc., 
he drew a line down the whole and wrote ' angelique.^ — 
Galant, rt'est-ce-pas ? 

" Adieu, tres cherie ; if it does not fatigue you to 
write, let us hear a little from you ; — and believe me 
ever Your obedient humble Papa." 

In the beginning of September, the waters of Tun- 
bridge Wells were tried, for the relief of the poor 
sufferer, but most unavailingly. From this place is writ- 
ten her last letter to her father. 

" TuNBRiDGE Wells, lOtli September, 1843. 

"Dearest Papa, — I received your kind note of the 
7th, and will try to answer it, though my hand is very 
unsteady. I suppose you will wish to hear how I feel ; 
as yet I feel no better ; indeed since I came here, I have 
felt quite ill ; but mamma thinks that may be the 
change. I have felt an extreme pain and soreness all 
over me, particularly a pain in the right side ; and the 
slightest movement is an effort to me. I have man- 
aged to get down to the Wells for my noon draught of 
water ; but the walk is painful, as the return is up hill, 
though the distance is not great. I cannot say, how- 
ever, that I feel essentially worse after walking ; but it 
seems merely to cause present pain. I am, towards 



AXXE GORHAM DVERETT. 305 

morning, rather restless, which I am not at home ; but 
that, I suppose, will go off, when my stiffness goes off. 
As to eating, the main chance, I dislike that as much 
as ever, and should be happy to run away when dinner 
comes in ; but that would be very uncivil to mamma. 
I do not, however, starve myself, you may be sure. I 
can eat for duty's sake. My cough, perhaps, is a shade 
better, but not much ; as that, however, is the conse- 
quence of other complaints, it will, I hope, go when 
they do. I know, dear papa, that it is very egotistical 
to talk so much about myself; but mamma and I 
thought I had better ^\Tite you just how I felt, than to 
say, in general terms, that I felt more ill ; because that, 
possibly, might have alarmed you. 

" The mineral waters are extremely cool, pure, and 
agreeable ; I like the taste of them very much ; and the 
women who serve you the water at the Wells, say it 
will do me good, because I did not have the headache 
upon beginning to drink. I suppose, therefore, that is 
the best. 

" Will you not com-e and see us, when you have a 
leisure day ? It would make me better to see you. . . . 
Your excursion must have been fatiguing ; but I hope 
you enjoyed Clara and Sibilla's harmony. We had 
frequent notes from C. during your absence, in which 
she seemed to be managing the house, etc., very well. 
My trembling fingers admonish me not to w^ite any 
more, so, hoping to see you soon, believe me, dear papa, 
" Your most affectionate child, 

" Anne G. Everett." 

To her mamma, who watched her with an aching 
heart, there seemed no hope ; and although the pre- 
26* 



306 MEMOIR OP 

scribed waters were drank hopefully and conscien- 
tiously, by the patient invalid, yet the three weeks passed 
at Tunbridge, proved wholly ineffectual ; and were but 
a weary exile from her own dear home. " I wish 
.extremely to be at Jiome again," Anne wrote in her 
journal, ■" and so does mamma ; but as long as we can 
get any good here, we feel as if we ought to stay." 

Thus the question of duty ruled; but the last of 
September, the weather becoming extremely cold and 
damp, her physician, to her great satisfaction, advised 
her return home. 

Journal. " 29th September. — Tunhridge Wells. 
To-day the sun shone bright, though it is still extremely 
cold. We got our trunks packed at an early hour; 
indeed, there was not much packing to do, for we had 
done a good deal yesterday. After breakfast mamma 
^went out to do an errand, and while she was gone, 
papa arrived to take us home ; it was a little after ten, 
I went down to the spring before we started, to take 
one more glass of water, which I hope will prove to 
have done me good. We left the house about twelve, 
and performed om* journey safely by railway and car- 
riage. 

" London, They were very glad to see us and we 
found every thing very comfortable ; the house felt so 
nice and warm, after the cold one we have left. I do 
not feel very tired with the journey to-night, but I dare 
say I shall feel the fatigue to-morrow." 

To-morrow came. In less than three weeks after, the 
tired one, we trust, found rest in heaven. 

And here ends the faithfully cherished journal. The 
half finished volume ; — the blotting paper, left at the 
last written page ; — the paper cover, to be removed 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 307 

when the book should be finished ; — these all, so fresh, 
so ready for use ! Can it be, that from her pen no word 
more shall ever be recorded ? 

Alas I " Nevermore I " comes, like a voice, from those 
remaining, untouched pages ! 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Letter from mrs. everett — letter from mr. everett — consola- 
tions IN HER death. 



" She hath put on the beautiful array 
Spirits redeemed from death in glory wear ! 

Where all is purity and love and light, 
Amid the ransomed host she walks in white, 

For ever freed from sorrow, sin, and care ! 



The news of the death of Anne Everett spread 
gloom and sorrow through a large circle of relatives 
and friends in America. To none could the bereave- 
ment have come more suddenly, than to her early friend. 
Mrs. Everett's letter, conveying to her the mournful 
intelligence, though deeply afflictive, was not without 
consolation ; — 

" London, 2d November, 1843. 

" My dear p., — It has become my painful task to 
inform you of the death of our dear Anne. The pre- 
cious girl expired on Wednesday night, the 18th October, 
at ten o'clock. Her death, though not unexpected, was 
a most distressing event to us, and has filled our hearts 
with anguish ; and you, I am confident, who loved her 
so well, and whom she so truly and sincerely loved, will 
deeply mourn her loss, and truly sympathize in our 
sorrow. 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 309 

" I can, on looking back, trace the beginning of dear 
Anne's declining health as long ago as March last, 
when she had a heavy cold with the rest of us, which 
left her with a rheumatic affection of her shoulders and 
limbs, which was troublesome to her ; but which did 
not prevent her taking her accustomed exercise, nor inter- 
fere with her general pursuits and amusements. She 
was, however, very careful to wrap up a good deal, and 
to guard herself from the evening air. In April, we 
had one or two country visits to make, and I took her 
with us, as her physician said that change of air rather 
than medicine, would tend to remove the stiffness 
which troubled her. She enjoyed her excursion to the 
country, and during the month of May, after we came 
home, she took as much pleasure as her sister, in attend- 
ing the country breakfasts of our friends in the neighbor- 
hood of London. But I had watched her very care- 
fully all the time, and soon began to perceive a general 
loss of flesh, strength, appetite, and spirits. This 
alarmed me, and we called in another medical man of 
eminence, who said that she had no disease whatever ; 
that though she coughed a little, her lungs were quite 
sound, but there seemed a general debility, which he 
thought would be removed by sea bathing. In July, 
therefore, I went with her to Brighton. There we staid 
a fortnight, and the warm salt water baths carried off 
her rheumatism entirely. But her cough increased ; 
and she felt so chilled and depressed by the sea air, that 
she besought me to take her home. This the physician 
told me to do, if she was not happy at Brighton. We 
came home in August, and after remaining quietly here 
a few days, she went with C, at her own desire, to pass 
some days with one of our intimate friends at Sheen, 
about seven miles from London. Here she was very 



310 MEMOIR OF 

happy. I drove out to see her, and found her luxuriat- 
ing in the pure air of the country. She walked, drove, 
read, sewed, or lay on her bed as she chose — and was 
not obliged to talk, which made her cough. But in a 
few days, C. wrote me that her cough had very much 
increased at Sheen, and she wished I would take her 
home. This I did immediately ; and again sent for our 
medical advisers. They again examined her lungs, — 
said they were as yet sound, and advised me to try the 
waters of Tunbridge Wells for her, which are impreg- 
nated with iron. By this time, the poor, dear girl had 
become excessively thin and weak, and could not bear 
the noisy conversation of children. I therefore went 
quite alone with her to Tunbridge Wells, leaving C. at 
home with her father and brothers. 

" Tunbridge is a charming place, — and I took some 
quiet rooms, where we were wholly unmolested. Anne 
took the waters most scrupulously, as they were pre- 
scribed, and for about ten days I was quite sanguine 
that they were doing her good. She could not walk 
much, but she walked stronger. Still, her appetite did 
not return, and her cough increased. She scarcely 
spoke ten words during the twenty-four hours. She 
would sit, most of the day, on the sofa, with a little 
fancy work, while I read aloud to her amusing books, 
or talked to her, without permitting her to answer. 
Morning and evening she read to herself in the Bible, — 
both in the Old and New Testament, — this had been 
her constant and unfailing habit since she was five years 
old. But the sweet sufferer never uttered a complaint 
during her long and painful illness. She was meek, 
gentle, and resigned to the will of God. Once, during 
the week before she died, after she had had a severe 
attack of coughing, and was in agony with an acute 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 311 

pain in her head, she turned to me and said, ' Mamma, 
is it not very hard to bear pain ? ' I said, ' Yes, dear 
Anne, very hard ; but is it not pleasant to reflect that 
there is a place where pain cannot come ? ' ' Oh ! 
yes,' she answered, ' very pleasant ; — and but for the 
hope of going to that place, I could not have borne 
patiently all that I have suffered.' 

" We remained rather more than three weeks at Tun- 
bridge, when the weather suddenly changed and became 
cold, and I saw that my poor invalid changed for the 
worse. I immediately wrote to Mr. Everett to come 
down and take us home, which he did ; and on the 29th 
September we returned to London. Anne was much 
delighted to get back to her own room, which opened 
into mine. C. had made it very cheerful with a nice 
fire and comfortable sofa before it. For a short time 
after she came home, Anne dressed herself and went 
down to dinner ; for she had a great dislike to confine 
herself to her room. 

" But this effort I saw was too much for her strength, 
and I persuaded her at length to remain up stairs. She 
grew sensibly weaker, however, and the last week she 
only left her bed while it was made. The Friday before 
her death, (she died on Wednesday,) I requested her 
to let me cut off" her back hair, as it fatigued her to have 
it combed. She consented, but unwillingly. When it 
was off", however, I showed it to her ; she said, ' When 
I get well, mamma, I intend to have two bracelets made 
of this hair, — one for C. and one for P. This, her 
almost dying wish, shall be faithfully complied with ; 
and at some future time, I hope to have the melancholy 
satisfaction of sending you, or placing upon your arm, 
this last sad memorial of your departed friend. I am 
sure you will value it, and always wear it for her sake. 



312 MEMOIR OF 

" On the morning previous to dear Anne's death, we 
observed that she was much weaker, and had sunk a 
good deal in the night. Indeed, she felt it herself, and 
said that she thought she should not get well. She 
said she had a great deal to live for, and should like to 
have returned to America, but that she was not afraid 
to die. Dear girl! she had no cause to be, — for a 
purer, more humble, or more devout Christian I have 
never known. A few hours before her death, our letters 
arrived from America. Three were for her, — two from 
her cousins, and one from you. She requested me to 
read them all to her, — but yours first, — and it seemed 
to afford her the most sincere pleasure ; but she said but 
little on account of her cough. After this, she sat up 
in bed and took her tea ; and then was taken to the 
sofa while her bed was made. On returning to bed, 
she had rather a distressed turn, but after her drops were 
administered, as usual, she fell into a tranquil sleep, 
from which, she never fully awoke. Her pure spirit 
departed gently, and without a struggle at ten o'clock. 

" Dear, dear Anne I she was very precious to us ; — 
but I cannot wish her back, for I feel that she was a 
good and faithful servant, and has entered into ' the joy 
of her Lord.' We shall long and deeply lament her 
loss, — but not as those who have no hope. I trust that 
this bereavement has awakened me to a more faithful 
discharge of my duties, and a more diligent preparation 
for my own last change." 

The following is a brief extract from a letter from 
Anjpe's sister, written about a month later : — 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 313 



[To the same.] 

" . . . . Believe me, I am very sensible to your kind- 
ness in writing to me, and your expressions of sympa- 
thy are doubly grateful, coming, as they do, from a 
heart as much stricken as my own. You really knew 
and loved my sweet sister, and she I can truly say never 
entertained for anyone the feelings she did for you; 
you were her only friend. It must be a pleasant reflec- 
tion for you, that her last moments, as it were, were 
cheered by a letter from you ; it gave her inexpressible 
pleasure, and she commented with almost her natural 
manner on the news it contained. 

" Poor child I she little dreamed she should never see 
her dear friend again. You may well say that I am' 
desolate ! Those who love their friends at home, have- 
still some young companions left — some one to weep 
with — but I am alone. I have no young friends, who 
live near me ; none whom I see oftener than once in* 
three months during a morning call. In my sister,, 
therefore, I lost every thing; and though the last three 
months of her life, she was partially taken from me, she- 
was stiU alive; — if away, I could write to her; if at. 
home, L could leave my studies to run to her bedside 
and smooth her pillow ; or if trying to work, I could 
help her, when her poor, transparent fingers refused to- 
perform their office. And she always had a smile for 
me, or a kind word praising my dress or work, so that 
imperceptibly, I learaed to think, ' Even if she never 
recovers, she will at least be spared to us and we can- 
nurse her, and make her happy.' God, however, ordered 
otherwise, and took her from us, not with agony and 

27 



314 MEMOIR OF 

suffering, but in peaceful sleep ; a nneet end far so gen- 
tle a being 

" As New- Year comes on, and all busy themselves 
about their little gifts, we miss our dear Anne, who was 
always so anxious in her little presents to suit the tastes 
of all, and our happy party will be sadly clouded 
with sorrow, at finding among our gifts, several things 
bought by her at Tunbridge, and carefully concealed to 
be given on New- Year. Even in her illness she thought 
of others." .... 

The following letter, from Mr. Everett, was written 
a short time since, in compliance with a request for 
further particulars of the closing scenes of his beloved 
daughter's life. 

[Letter from Mr. Everett.] 

" Boston, 8th November, 1854. 

"... I avail myself of the first moment of compar- 
ative leisure to give you, agreeably to your request, 
some account of the decline of our dear daughter. She 
was, as you are aware, naturally of a slight frame, but 
being extremely regular and prudent in all her habits, 
she enjoyed general good health, till the last year or two 
of her life. It had been our custom for several years 
to walk together for an hour daily ; and she very sel- 
dom missed the walk, for any other cause than that of 
inclement weather. In coming up from Naples to 
Rome, in October, 1841, we were accidentally kept out 
till half an hour after sunset, while we were on the 
Pontine Marshes. Two of the family were severely 
attacked three weeks afterwards with fever and ague in 
France. Anne at that time showed no symptoms of 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 315 

disease, but the next autumn in London, after the inter- 
val of a twelvemonth, she was attacked with intermit- 
tent fever. Her physician thought it was probably in 
consequence of exposure to the malaria of the Pontine 
Marshes the year before. 

" From this time forward her health seemed not 
altogether as good as formerly. In the spring of 1843, 
we began to feel considerable anxiety about her. Her 
lungs were easily afTected by changes in the weather ; 
she was habitually languid, lost flesh, and was fre- 
quently indisposed. Early in August a consultation 
was held upon her case by Dr. Boott and Dr. (now Sir 
Henry) Holland, and they advised her passing some 
time at Brighton. We took her there, but the air of the 
place did not appear to agree with her, and after an 
experiment of a week or two we returned to London. 

" Early in September we went with her to Tunbridge 
Wells, a place less exposed than Brighton, where the 
waters, it was thought, would be useful to her. Here 
she staid three or four weeks with her mother. I visited 
her as often as my duties in London would permit, but 
was grieved to find, at each visit, that she appeared 
more feeble and emaciated. After a trial of three 
weeks, it was plain that she was deriving no benefit 
from the waters, while she suffered for want of the com- 
forts and quiet of home. After our return to London, 
in the last week of September, she never left the house. 

" She was troubled with a cough, which gave her 
great pain, and in other respects she suffered much at 
times, — without a murmur. She was not fully aware 
of her situation, nor did we think it wise to agitate her, 
by disclosing the extent of our fears. In fact, at that 
time, I believe her physicians did not think her end so 
near. 



316 MEMOIR OF 

" Shortly after our return to London, I had described 
to her some imitations in Wedgewood ware of the Port- 
land Vase, which I had seen in a shop window. On 
the 11th of October, she took advantage of a moment, 
when her mother was out of the room, to ask me to 
get one of them, as a present for her mother on her 
birthday which was near ; but the dear child did not 
live to see it. 

" On Sunday, the 15th, she, for the first time, made 
a remark which showed a consciousness of her danger. 
She said to me that ' she could not help feeling that she 
was constantly growing weaker, and that she might not 
recover.' I answered her, ' that we must hope for the 
best' She said, ' the possibility of not recovering did 
not terrify her; — it was an event that must be looked 
in the face.' I told her, ' 1 knew no one, who had less 
cause to fear death than she.' In the course of the same 
day, as I was carrying her from one bed to another, as 
helpless as an infant, I observed that, ' I had often car- 
ried her in my arms, in that way, from the hour of her 
birth.' She replied that ' it was well that I should take 
the first and the last care of her.' 

" From this time forward, whenever she alluded to 
her situation, it was in a manner to show that she was 
fully sustained through the last gi'eat trial, by the faith 
and hope in which she had grown up from childhood. 

" I passed the night of the 16th with her ; it was one 
of frequent acute suffering ; but her patience and un- 
complaining endurance did not give way for a moment. 
She remained without material alteration till about 
seven in the evening of the 18th, when a decided 
change took place, marked by great shortness of breath, 
and difficulty in swallowing the prescribed anodynes. 
At nine o'clock she spoke of a pain and confused feel- 



ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 317 

ing in her head, ' I cannot,' said she, ' even pray.' ' Can 
you not, dear daughter,' I asked, ' say the Lord's will be 
done ? ' ' Do you say it for me, dear papa,' she replied, 
which I told her I did from the bottom of my heart. 
After gasping for breath, she asked me, ' whether the 
last struggle could be greater ; and said it sometimes 
seemed hard that she should suffer so much.' I told 
her she was in the hands of her Heavenly Father, who 
ordered every thing for the best ; — and asked her if she 
felt that this was so, and could resign herself to His 
will ? ' She answered, ' Oh, yes, and that if it had not 
been for this feeling, she should have been tempted at 
times to throw herself from the window.' But through 
all her sufferings I never knew her to utter a murmur- 
ing word. 

" She soon after said that her limbs were paralyzed, 
and asked me to rub the palm and back of her 
hands, saying 'it soothed her.' She repeatedly asked 
her mother and me not to leave her, and expressed the 
greatest satisfaction, when I told her that I had declined 
an invitation fi-om Sir Robert Peel, in the country, for 
the sake of being with her. 

" Having taken an opiate, she fell for a short time 
into a rather uneasy, but pretty sound sleep, at about 
half past nine o'clock in the evening. I am not sure 
that she awoke from this sleep to a state of entire con- 
sciousness. At a quarter before ten, she seemed to be 
awaking, but it was in the act of dying. I asked her 
* if she knew her papa,' and she gave me a look and a 
faint smile of assent. I called her mother, who, over-, 
come with the fatigue of constant attendance, had 
thrown herself a short time before on the bed in an 
adjoining room ; and in a few moments more, calmly, 
without a struggle and with less apparent suffering, than 



318 MEMOIK OP 

she often experienced in a fit of coughing, the dear child 
breathed her last in my arms. Such was the end of our 
beloved daughter, who, young as she was, had grown 
up to be my companion and friend, sometimes my 
adviser, often my exemplar, the object of my tenderest 
parental love. 

" Our dear daughter's remains were placed tempo- 
rarily in the Cemetery of Kensal Green; — they now 
rest at Mount Auburn, by the side of those of her little 
sister, Grace Webster, whom you recollect as a child of 
the rarest promise. 

" In our overwhelming affliction at the loss of dear 
Anne, we had all the consolation that could flow from 
dwelling on her truly heavenly character. Nor was the 
sympathy of friends wanting. From the large circle of 
acquaintance, in which she necessarily moved, and from 
the highest personages in the kingdom, we received the 
most gratifying assurances that our loss was appre- 
ciated. The extreme delicacy of her appearance, her 
gentle and unobtrusive manners, and highly intelligent 
conversation had attracted notice, even amidst the 
crowd and pressure of the Court. But it was only 
those who knew her as you did, who could do full jus- 
tice to her superior and endearing qualities." .... 

Even the precious consolation which the bereaved 
may feel in their lost one's fitness for heaven, is a source 
of comfort fraught with pain ; — since the piety and 
loveliness of character that fitted the departed one to 
die, are the very graces which fitted her to live ; it was 
these which rendered her life so dear a treasure ; her 
death so heavy a sorrow. Yet who would be without 
this consolation ? Whilst it deepens the affliction, it is, 
next to submission to the Divine will, the only reflection 



ANNE GOEHAM EVERETT. 319 

that has power to assuage a mourner's grief. This con- 
solation abounded in the death of Anne Everett. We 
have not, indeed, attempted to make this a religious 
biography ; for Anne has not written her spiritual ex- 
periences, but we have rather sought to delineate the 
dutiful child, the gentle sister and friend, the faithful 
scholar and ardent seeker after high attainments ; yet 
sQch was her conscientious discharge of every duty ; 
so noble and pure her constant aims ; so scrupulous her 
performance of her own daily devotions and her atten- 
dance on those of the family ; so eager her desire always 
to receive the truth, and so entire the trust, that she 
seemed to repose in her Saviour, which enabled her 
finally in peaceful triumph to view^ the approach of the 
King of Terrors, that we have unspeakable comfort in 
the assurance that she is " for ever with the Lord." 

She was a most diligent student of the Bible ; a copy, 
her father's gift, when she was about ten years old, was 
her inseparable companion. At the time of her death, 
it contained marks opening at five different portions, — 
the 15th, 16th, and 17th chapters of St. John, were par- 
ticularly marked; and a small pocket Testament, a gift 
from her father in London, which she always took with 
her when she left home, bore evidences of the same 
earnest perusal. 

Perhaps it will be supposed that especial pains has 
been taken in this volume to conceal Anne's faults. 
But this is not so. That she had faults, we may safely 
affirm, for she was human ; but that they were discov- 
erable only to herself, all that knew her can attest. 
They were like the low shadows of herb and grass upon 
the plain, where the sun continually shines, and we say, 
" there is no shade here," for we cannot see it in the 
gleaming brightness. So Anne's unvarying superior 



320 ANNE GORHAM EVERETT. 

excellence alone attracted notice, — - no visible fault 
dimmed the lustre of her goodness, and to the most 
intimate observer she ever seemed a wellnigh perfect 
character. 

Anne's brief career forcibly exemplifies the beauty of 
steady upward progress. There is no retrograde move- 
ment, because the rules of life and the constant discipline 
of education are never relaxed or suffered to become 
wearisome. Twenty years is all we have in which to 
trace this progress, — yet in this swiftly passing period, 
we see the preparation for great achievement ; every 
talent cultivated, the years for action alone are wanting. 
We have found it difficult to do her justice. The sculp- 
tor may replace piece after piece of his fallen statue and 
hope to convey to the outer eye the idea of its original 
perfection, — but who can by words array before the 
mind the beauty of the living character ? It is a doubt- 
ful, and often a fruitless task. 

One favor will be asked, — if the mind and character 
presented in these pages fail to excite praise and emula- 
tion, let the fault be ascribed, where only it will be due, 
to the inability of their delineator to do faithful justice 
to the theme. 



41 9 31 



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